{"id":82,"date":"2007-03-08T00:55:09","date_gmt":"2007-03-07T22:55:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=82"},"modified":"2019-02-19T01:10:21","modified_gmt":"2019-02-18T23:10:21","slug":"vinales-a-kubanske-zbohom","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/vinales-a-kubanske-zbohom","title":{"rendered":"Vi\u00f1ales a kub\u00e1nske zbohom"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Vi\u00f1ales,<\/p>\n

\"Tabakov\u00e1<\/a>Santiago bola na\u0161a posledn\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka na v\u00fdchode. Vraciame sa do Havany, presad\u00e1me, tentoraz smerom na z\u00e1pad. Vi\u00f1ales je najz\u00e1padnej\u0161\u00ed regi\u00f3n Kuby. Typick\u00fd je \u010fal\u0161\u00edmi n\u00e1rodn\u00fdmi parkami a tabakom, ktor\u00fd vyp\u013a\u0148a najkvalitnej\u0161ie cigary na svete zna\u010dky Cohiba. Je to nesmierne malebn\u00e9 miesto: iskrivo \u010derven\u00e1 hlina a l\u00e1ny zelen\u00e9ho tabaku, na ktor\u00fd prdia biele kravy. V pozad\u00ed sa \u010drtaj\u00fa stolovit\u00e9 \u00fatvary – strm\u00e9 vysok\u00e9 \u00fatesy porasten\u00e9 palmami, zvan\u00e9 mogotes.<\/p>\n

\"Prasiatka,<\/a>Hne\u010f v prv\u00fd de\u0148 pri potulk\u00e1ch natraf\u00edme na koh\u00fatie z\u00e1pasy, prebiehaj\u00face v diskr\u00e9tnom h\u00e1jiku. Koh\u00fatie z\u00e1pasy ako aktivita \u00fazko spojen\u00e1 s hazardom je na Kube ofici\u00e1lne zak\u00e1zan\u00e1, ale v skuto\u010dnosti ju nav\u0161tevuj\u00fa v\u0161etci, od \u010dlenov Klubu ochrancov socialistick\u00fdch zvierat a\u017e po komis\u00e1ra miestneho v\u00fdboru strany.<\/p>\n

Tak je to aj dnes. U\u017e z dia\u013eky po\u010du\u0165 erd\u017eanie zaparkovan\u00fdch kon\u00ed, radostne kopuluj\u00facich bez doh\u013eadu svojich p\u00e1nov. Rovnako intenz\u00edvne zvukov\u00e9 pozadie dotv\u00e1ra v\u0161adepr\u00edtomn\u00e9 kikir\u00edkanie koh\u00fatov a ich majite\u013eov. St\u00e1vky s\u00fa vysok\u00e9, stoly sa preh\u00fdbaj\u00fa od chlebov s maslom a lacn\u00e9ho rumu s pr\u00edchu\u0165ou nafty. Vo vzduchu c\u00edti\u0165 krv, perie a koh\u00fatie bobky. Okolo ringu sa tla\u010dia v\u0161etci prolet\u00e1ri; nat\u00e1\u010dame zop\u00e1r bojazliv\u00fdch z\u00e1berov a ustupujeme po spiato\u010dnej ceste, okolo kopuluj\u00facich kon\u00ed. Niektor\u00e9 s\u00fa zapriahnut\u00e9 v bri\u010dk\u00e1ch, ale to im v\u00f4bec neprek\u00e1\u017ea.<\/p>\n

\"Justyna\"<\/a>Vi\u00f1ales, to s\u00fa na\u0161e posledn\u00e9 dni na Kube. Chod\u00edme po tabakov\u00fdch farm\u00e1ch, chutn\u00e1me v\u0161etky mo\u017en\u00e9 ovocia, cukrov\u00fa trstinu a cigary, \u010derstvo u\u0161\u00fa\u013ean\u00e9 z fermentovan\u00e9ho tabaku. Vch\u00e1dzame do stolov\u00fdch h\u00f4r, kde v\u00e1s nevezme nijak\u00fd sprievodca a kde nexistuj\u00fa mapy, len va\u0161a pam\u00e4\u0165 a buzola.V mogotes vl\u00e1dne ticho, ob\u010das preru\u0161ovan\u00e9 smutn\u00fdm vt\u00e1\u010d\u00edm spevom; s\u00fa to tesn\u00e9 skaln\u00e9 \u0161trukt\u00fary, strm\u00e9 priepasti a nepriechodn\u00e9 h\u00fa\u0161\u0165avy desiatok druhov paliem.
\n\"Z\u00e1ti\u0161ie<\/a><\/p>\n

Po Vi\u00f1ales n\u00e1s u\u017e \u010dak\u00e1 len Havana a odlet. De\u0148 pred odchodom si e\u0161te prejdeme z\u00e1kutia starej smrad\u013eavej Havany: popod hnij\u00face le\u0161enie, ktor\u00e9 podopiera steny ministerstva auditu; okolo smetiska, kopiaceho sa pod ministerstvom \u013eahk\u00e9ho priemyslu a ministerstvom vn\u00fatorn\u00e9ho obchodu. Vraciame sa do snobskej \u0161tvrte Vedado, lemovanej koloni\u00e1lnymi vilami a prastar\u00fdmi stromami; okolo ministerstva cukru a ministerstva \u013eudov\u00e9ho zdravia a\u017e ku \u010d\u00ednskej ambas\u00e1de s ve\u013ek\u00fdm \u010d\u00ednskym m\u00farom a k budove, nes\u00facej symboly a n\u00e1pisy slobodomur\u00e1rskej l\u00f3\u017ee, ktor\u00e1 tu m\u00e1 e\u0161te st\u00e1le svoje slovo. Aj tak\u00e1to je Kuba.
\n\"Justyna<\/a><\/p>\n

Nech je, ako chce, Kubu op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame r\u00fdchlo a radi. Dnes, na za\u010diatku 21. storo\u010dia, ke\u010f jej vyciven\u00fd star\u00fd otec pomaly dod\u00fdchava na nemocni\u010dnej posteli, alebo u\u017e d\u00e1vno le\u017e\u00ed v nejakom mraziarenskom boxe na ministerstve vn\u00fatra, je Kuba miestom, na ktor\u00e9 sa tak \u013eahko nezab\u00fada. V dobrom, \u010di zlom, Kuba n\u00e1m mnoho dala. Je to kr\u00e1sne, \u0161ialen\u00e9, smutn\u00e9 a z\u00e1rove\u0148 bez prestania oslavuj\u00face miesto. \u0160tyri t\u00fd\u017edne boli napokon prive\u013ea, ale \u010dert to ber.<\/p>\n

\"Anan\u00e1s\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Santiago bola na\u0161a posledn\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka na v\u00fdchode. Vraciame sa do Havany, presad\u00e1me, tentoraz smerom na z\u00e1pad. Vi\u00f1ales je najz\u00e1padnej\u0161\u00ed regi\u00f3n Kuby. Typick\u00fd je \u010fal\u0161\u00edmi n\u00e1rodn\u00fdmi parkami a tabakom, ktor\u00fd vyp\u013a\u0148a najkvalitnej\u0161ie cigary na svete zna\u010dky Cohiba. Je to nesmierne malebn\u00e9 miesto: iskrivo \u010derven\u00e1 hlina a l\u00e1ny zelen\u00e9ho tabaku, na ktor\u00fd prdia biele kravy. V pozad\u00ed…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1465,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354,73],"tags":[402,124,345,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/82"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=82"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/82\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8158,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/82\/revisions\/8158"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1465"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=82"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=82"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=82"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}