{"id":78,"date":"2007-02-28T00:40:09","date_gmt":"2007-02-27T22:40:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=78"},"modified":"2019-02-19T01:10:38","modified_gmt":"2019-02-18T23:10:38","slug":"baracoa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/baracoa","title":{"rendered":"Baracoa"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Baracoa,V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, Santiago sme r\u00fdchlo a radi opustili 23. febru\u00e1ra, a rovnako aj na\u0161a Lonelyplanet-ovsk\u00e1 rodina. Pomaly n\u00e1s prest\u00e1va bavi\u0165 vz\u00e1jomne sa ignorova\u0165 pri v\u0161etk\u00fdch t\u00fdch “n\u00e1hodn\u00fdch” stretnutiach. Spriatel\u00edme sa po\u010das div\u00e1ckeho z\u00e1\u017eitku v autobuse. Filmy n\u00e1m prichystala kub\u00e1nska vl\u00e1da presne dva. Oba s\u00fa na tej istej (ne)fal\u0161ovanej videokazete! Na Kube e\u0161te st\u00e1le pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa skuto\u010dn\u00e9 video so v\u0161etk\u00fdm, \u010do k tomu patr\u00ed: neust\u00e1le sa meniace farby kv\u00f4li pr\u00edli\u0161 o\u0161\u00fachan\u00e9mu nosi\u010du a \u0161irok\u00fd p\u00e1s \u010diernobielych vodorovn\u00fdch \u010diar, mihotaj\u00facich sa v strede obrazovky.<\/p>\n

P\u00e1s prek\u00e1\u017ea v pozeran\u00ed, av\u0161ak po desiatich min\u00fatach pochop\u00edme, \u017ee je vlastne vyk\u00fapen\u00edm z fabuly pr\u00edbehu: prv\u00fd film s\u00fa X-mani niekedy z osemdesiatych rokov, po \u0148om u\u017e nasleduje Z\u00f3na \u017eralokov, neuverite\u013ene zbabran\u00fd falzifik\u00e1t \u010ce\u013eust\u00ed. Pri po\u010d\u00edtan\u00ed obet\u00ed a povzbudzovan\u00ed \u017eralokov sa zozn\u00e1mime s dvomi Havaj\u010danmi a jedn\u00fdm Angli\u010danom, ktor\u00fd pr\u00e1ve ozlomkrky opa\u013euje ak\u00fasi hl\u00fapu\u010dk\u00fa Ameri\u010danku.<\/p>\n

Tret\u00ed film o \u00fanose lietadla u\u017e nestihneme dopozera\u0165: ak\u00fdsi nehanebn\u00fd Kana\u010fan sa za\u010dne s\u0165a\u017eova\u0165 vodi\u010dovi, \u017ee cestuj\u00faci u\u017e maj\u00fa dos\u0165 (\u010diasto\u010dne m\u00e1 pravdu), a vodi\u010d zbabelo vyp\u00edna video. V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, so zmienenou \u0161tvoricou uzavrieme na v\u00fdchodnom c\u00edpe Kuby rumov\u00e9 pr\u00edmerie. Na no\u010dnom pobre\u017e\u00ed rozb\u00faren\u00e9ho Atlantiku a napriek na\u0161im sk\u00fasen\u00fdm varovaniam, napl\u00e1nujeme spolo\u010dn\u00fa bicyklov\u00fa v\u00fdpravu na miesta, na ktor\u00fdch by sme sa v\u010faka Lonely Planet tak \u010di tak stretli.<\/p>\n

Do Baracoa sme teda pricestovali 23. febru\u00e1ra. Dnes je to mal\u00e9, nen\u00e1padn\u00e9 meste\u010dko na \u00faplnom v\u00fdchode ostrova, od ostatn\u00fdch \u010dast\u00ed oddelen\u00e9 horsk\u00fdmi mas\u00edvmi. Baracoa m\u00e1 v\u0161ak sl\u00e1vnu minulos\u0165; bolo to pr\u00e1ve toto miesto, kde na konci 15. storo\u010dia so svojimi tromi lo\u010fami po prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t prist\u00e1l ist\u00fd Eur\u00f3pan a otvoril t\u00fdm nov\u00fa kapitolu v dejin\u00e1ch \u013eudstva. Tento mu\u017e bol pod\u013ea posledn\u00fdch historick\u00fdch d\u00f4kazov patologick\u00fd sadista a pripisuje sa mu zodpovednos\u0165 za zavra\u017edenie viacer\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed vr\u00e1tane \u010dlena svojej rodiny. Volal sa Kri\u0161tof Kolumbus.<\/p>\n

Mesto Baracoa, ktor\u00e9 bolo na konci eur\u00f3pskeho stredovku z\u00e1klad\u0148ou pre \u0161panielske v\u00fdpady do vn\u00fatrozemia Kuby a k brehom juhoamerick\u00e9ho kontinentu, je dnes u\u017e len pokojn\u00fdm pr\u00edstavom pre t\u00fa h\u0155stku turistov, ktor\u00e1 m\u00e1 dos\u0165 \u010dasu a v\u00fddr\u017ee docestova\u0165 a\u017e sem. Baracoa je v\u0161ak hodna n\u00e1mahy: obkolesuje ju n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park, v\u013e\u00fadne pl\u00e1\u017ee, je tu lacno a \u013eudia s\u00fa priate\u013esk\u00ed.<\/p>\n

V nede\u013eu 24. febru\u00e1ra vyr\u00e1\u017eame s na\u0161imi nov\u00fdmi kamar\u00e1tmi na od\u013eahl\u00fa pl\u00e1\u017e. Bicykle s\u00fa presne tak\u00e9, ak\u00e9 sme o\u010dak\u00e1vali po z\u00e1\u017eitku z Trinidadu. I napriek bo\u013eav\u00fdm zadkom v\u0161ak vieme oceni\u0165 kr\u00e1snu cestu, ved\u00facu cez ospal\u00e9 zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 dedinky a pobre\u017en\u00fa polod\u017eung\u013eu. \u013dudia v\u00e1m tu na po\u010dkanie zrazia z palmy \u010derstv\u00fd kokosov\u00fd orech a podaj\u00fa v\u00e1m ho, ako sa patr\u00ed. Nie v\u017edy v\u00e1s pri tom chc\u00fa zodra\u0165 aj z posledn\u00fdch pe\u0148az\u00ed: s\u00fa to jednoduch\u00ed a chudobn\u00ed dedin\u010dania, zvedav\u00ed a priate\u013esk\u00ed. Nemaj\u00fa ni\u010d spolo\u010dn\u00e9 s jineteros: mlad\u00e1 \u017eena n\u00e1m ukazuje svoju z\u00e1hradku, jej mlad\u00e1 dc\u00e9rka n\u00e1s zozn\u00e1mi so svojimi korytna\u010dkami a my ju s na\u0161ou \u010dokol\u00e1dou. Ke\u010f o nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn nesk\u00f4r ped\u00e1lujme nasp\u00e4\u0165 domov, \u017eena n\u00e1s vy\u010dk\u00e1va na ceste pred domom: vt\u00edska n\u00e1m e\u0161te k\u00f4\u0161 vynikaj\u00facich kub\u00e1nskych pomaran\u010dov, pr\u00e1ve obrat\u00fdch zo stromu. D\u00e1va n\u00e1m jasne najavo, \u017ee o platen\u00ed nem\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 ani re\u010d.<\/p>\n

Na konci d\u0148a, postoja\u010dky a s nutkav\u00fdmi k\u0155\u010dmi v na\u0161ej sedacj s\u00fastave, bilancujeme na\u0161u v\u00fdpravu. V\u00fdborne sme sa ok\u00fapali, zozn\u00e1mili sme sa s miestnymi \u013eu\u010fmi a korytna\u010dkami. Angli\u010dan nielen\u017ee nezbalil hl\u00fapu detinsk\u00fa Ameri\u010danku, ale e\u0161te sa kv\u00f4li nej zo \u017eiarlivosti takmer pobil s miestnym pova\u013ea\u010dom. Sc\u00e9nka bola nesmierne romantick\u00e1 a Kub\u00e1nec na jej vrchole hrdo prehl\u00e1sil, \u017ee je pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00fd policajt (!). Konflikt s\u00e1m osebe bol tak\u00fdm rukolapn\u00fdm d\u00f4kazom du\u0161evn\u00e9ho bohatstva cel\u00e9ho \u013e\u00fabostn\u00e9ho trojuholn\u00edka, \u017ee ho jednomyse\u013ene pripisujeme k pozit\u00edvnym udalostiam dne\u0161n\u00e9ho d\u0148a. Niet poch\u00fdb; na\u0161a v\u00fdprava bola jedno ve\u013ek\u00e9 triumf\u00e1lne v\u00ed\u0165azstvo.<\/p>\n

Pri Baracoa e\u0161te nav\u0161t\u00edvime n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Humboldt. O bicykloch u\u017e nem\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 ani re\u010d; sk\u00fa\u0161ame moped. Moped v\u00e1m na kub\u00e1nskych derav\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch nedovo\u013euje jazdi\u0165 o ni\u010d r\u00fdchlej\u0161ie, ako na bicykli, ale aspo\u0148 v\u00e1s nebol\u00ed zadok. V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, park Humboldt je pomerne pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 miesto na zab\u00edjanie \u010dasu a pe\u0148az\u00ed.Pr\u00edrodn\u00e9 parky na Kube maj\u00fa toti\u017e jednu v\u00fdhodu a jednu nev\u00fdhodu. V\u00fdhodou je, \u017ee pri vstupe do nich dostanete v\u017edy sprievodcu. Nem\u00f4\u017eete sa tak strati\u0165 a v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou sa i \u010dosi dozviete. Nev\u00fdhodou je, \u017ee pri vstupe do nich dostanete v\u017edy sprievodcu. Nem\u00f4\u017eete sa tak strati\u0165 a nem\u00f4\u017eete ani ni\u010d in\u00e9. \u010cak\u00e1 v\u00e1s len pokojn\u00e1 vych\u00e1dzka po ur\u010denej trase a jedin\u00fdm dobrodru\u017estvom je dozrievaj\u00faci anan\u00e1s. Inak povedan\u00e9, na Kube ste pod kontrolou aj v pr\u00edrode; samozrejme, plat\u00edte za to. A tak je to dobre. Vl\u00e1da predsa nem\u00f4\u017ee riskova\u0165, \u017ee jej za\u010dnete kon\u0161pirova\u0165 s rie\u010dnymi rybkami (in\u00e9 zvierat\u00e1 tam ne\u017eij\u00fa). A aj keby sa v\u00e1m n\u00e1hodou podarilo vnikn\u00fa\u0165 na tieto strategick\u00e9 miesta bez sprievodcu, ste straten\u00ed. Na Kube neexistuj\u00fa nijak\u00e9 podrobnej\u0161ie mapy a chodn\u00edky nie s\u00fa zna\u010den\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Po absolvovan\u00ed trojhodinov\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu pre platiacich n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov sa preto pokorne vraciame k svojmu mopedu a v\u00edrime prach smerom domov. Je pre m\u0148a ve\u013ek\u00e1 \u0161koda vidie\u0165 sa otv\u00e1ra\u0165 pred nami hory, do ktor\u00fdch nem\u00f4\u017eeme ani poriadne vst\u00fapi\u0165 a ktor\u00e9 mi niekto pod\u00e1 ako komer\u010dn\u00fd produkt medzi ra\u0148ajkami a obedom. Kub\u00e1nska vl\u00e1da u seba nechce nijak\u00fdch patetick\u00fdch milovn\u00edkov pr\u00edrody, ale rozv\u00e1\u017enych, platiacich n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov. \"Baracoa<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, Santiago sme r\u00fdchlo a radi opustili 23. febru\u00e1ra, a rovnako aj na\u0161a Lonelyplanet-ovsk\u00e1 rodina. Pomaly n\u00e1s prest\u00e1va bavi\u0165 vz\u00e1jomne sa ignorova\u0165 pri v\u0161etk\u00fdch t\u00fdch “n\u00e1hodn\u00fdch” stretnutiach. Spriatel\u00edme sa po\u010das div\u00e1ckeho z\u00e1\u017eitku v autobuse. Filmy n\u00e1m prichystala kub\u00e1nska vl\u00e1da presne dva. Oba s\u00fa na tej istej (ne)fal\u0161ovanej videokazete! Na Kube e\u0161te st\u00e1le pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354,73],"tags":[124,345,121,123,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=78"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8159,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/78\/revisions\/8159"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=78"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=78"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=78"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}