{"id":77,"date":"2007-02-21T00:26:07","date_gmt":"2007-02-20T22:26:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=77"},"modified":"2019-02-19T01:10:49","modified_gmt":"2019-02-18T23:10:49","slug":"camaguey-a-cesta-na-vychod","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/camaguey-a-cesta-na-vychod","title":{"rendered":"Camaguey a cesta na v\u00fdchod"},"content":{"rendered":"![\"Camaguey,](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/camaguey_zac.jpg\" "\\"Camaguey,")
Z Trinidadu prich\u00e1dzame do Camaguey 20. febru\u00e1ra. Je to zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 mesto s \u00fazkymi uli\u010dkami a hustou prem\u00e1vkou, ktor\u00e9 je tranzitn\u00fdm bodom medzi v\u00fdchodom (Oriente) a zbytkom Kuby. Niet tu ve\u013ea turistov, ani atrakci\u00ed. Camaguey je v\u0161ak pr\u00e1ve preto zauj\u00edmav\u00e9; mo\u017eno tu pozorova\u0165 dom\u00e1cich vo svojom norm\u00e1lnom prostred\u00ed, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina barov a re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed je v kub\u00e1nskych pesos a vo\u013eky-nevo\u013eky sa stravujete tak, ako dom\u00e1ci.<\/p>\n
V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina \u201edom\u00e1cich\u201c re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed s\u00fa vlastne jed\u00e1lne, naj\u010daste\u0161ie tmav\u00e9, zanedban\u00e9 miestnosti na rohoch ul\u00edc, s n\u00edzkou hygienou a jedlom vyzeraj\u00facim tak pochybne, \u017ee z neho poci\u0165uj\u00fa nevo\u013enos\u0165 aj stovky m\u00fach, nerozhodne pre\u0161\u013eapuj\u00face vo va\u0161ej paradajkovej om\u00e1\u010dke a v smrdiacej fazuli.
\nCamaguey: jedin\u00e1 fotka, ktor\u00e1 n\u00e1m ostala<\/p>\n
U na\u0161ich dom\u00e1cich v Camaguey si ve\u010der doprajem skromn\u00fa sprchu; v istom momente vylieza z va\u0148ov\u00e9ho odtoku obrovsk\u00e1 dlh\u00e1 stono\u017eka a ladn\u00fdm \u0161t\u00fdlom pl\u00e1ve priamo k mojim noh\u00e1m. Po chv\u00edli sa mi stono\u017eku podar\u00ed presved\u010di\u0165, aby sa vr\u00e1tila nasp\u00e4\u0165 do odtoku, \u010do v\u0161ak v\u00f4bec nie je jednoduch\u00e9, ke\u010f\u017ee m\u00e1 na tele ak\u00fdsi nepoddajn\u00fd pancier a v dodatku zrejme i dve hlavy (treba ju zabi\u0165 dvakr\u00e1t); e\u0161te aj po smrti nen\u00e1vistne blokuje odtok vody. Po kub\u00e1nskych mest\u00e1ch je v\u0161eobecne ve\u013emi pou\u010dn\u00e9 prech\u00e1dza\u0165 sa pred zotmen\u00edm, ke\u010f sa gazdin\u00e9 vracaj\u00fa domov, upratuj\u00fa pr\u00edbytky a \u010distia dl\u00e1\u017eky a popritom sa zbavuj\u00fa aj svojich r\u00f4znych spolub\u00fdvaj\u00facich. Na ulice sa tak vyplavuj\u00fa v tokoch m\u00fatnej vody neboh\u00e9 tel\u00ed\u010dka \u0161v\u00e1bov, ve\u013ek\u00fdch ako my\u0161.<\/p>\n
Na \u0161v\u00e1bov a stono\u017eky n\u00e1m sta\u010dil akur\u00e1t jeden de\u0148. Pokra\u010dujeme v ceste na v\u00fdchod: nastupujeme do \u0161tyri hodiny me\u0161kaj\u00faceho autobusu. U\u017e tu si za\u010d\u00edname op\u00e4tovne v\u0161\u00edma\u0165 \u010dosi, s \u010d\u00edm sa v dne\u0161nej dobe stretnete pri cestovan\u00ed ve\u013emi \u010dasto: st\u00e1le stret\u00e1vate t\u00fdch ist\u00fdch turistov. Mieria tam, kam vy, zauj\u00edma ich to, \u010do v\u00e1s. Ubytuj\u00fa sa v susednej izbe toho ist\u00e9ho penzi\u00f3nu, sedia pri po\u010d\u00edta\u010di v internetovej kaviarni, v ktorej \u010dak\u00e1te na rad. Samozrejme, nijak\u00e1 n\u00e1hoda. V\u0161etci \u010d\u00edtame toho ist\u00e9ho turistick\u00e9ho sprievodcu.<\/p>\n
Nem\u00e1m to r\u00e1d. Ke\u010f sa nad t\u00fdm zamysl\u00edte, spolo\u010dnos\u0165 Lonely Planet (absol\u00fatny l\u00edder tohto kni\u017en\u00e9ho \u017e\u00e1nru), m\u00e1 obrovsk\u00fd vplyv na v\u00fdber destin\u00e1ci\u00ed u v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iny nez\u00e1visl\u00fdch cestovate\u013eov (a nielen ich). Odpor\u00fa\u010daj\u00fa miesta, na ktor\u00e9 sa potom ka\u017ed\u00fd vyberie; tie ostatn\u00e9 akoby v danej krajine neexistovali, preto\u017ee zrejme nie s\u00fa hodn\u00e9 v\u00e1\u0161ho z\u00e1ujmu. N\u00e1jdu v\u00e1m dobr\u00e9 adresy v meste na ubytovanie, stravovanie, z\u00e1bavu. V\u00fdsledok: ich majitelia si automaticky zv\u00fd\u0161ia cenu; napokon, zahrani\u010dn\u00fa klientelu maj\u00fa zaisten\u00fa. Je to tak: cestovate\u013esk\u00e1 spont\u00e1nnos\u0165 sa st\u00e1va il\u00faziou vplyvom \u010doraz efekt\u00edvnej\u0161ej v\u00fdmeny inform\u00e1ci\u00ed. Jedna sloboda (pr\u00edstup k inform\u00e1ci\u00e1m a mo\u017enos\u0165 cestova\u0165) vytv\u00e1ra in\u00fa neslobodu (ohrani\u010denie va\u0161ich preferenci\u00ed a zorn\u00e9ho uhla na tie, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa \u201epublikovan\u00e9\u201c, \u201eoveren\u00e9\u201c). Nov\u00e9 mocensk\u00e9 tlaky: ak nie ste v kni\u017eke, neexistujete.<\/p>\n
Z autobusu teda vystupujeme v Santiago de Cuba. Nach\u00e1dzame si ubytovanie pod\u013ea sprievodcu (pre\u010do je len tak\u00fd prekliate u\u017eito\u010dn\u00fd!…) a op\u00e4\u0165 m\u00ed\u0148ame t\u00fdch nieko\u013ek\u00fdch turistov, ktor\u00fdch sme stretli u\u017e v autobuse. Santiago de Cuba je druh\u00e9 najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie a najv\u00fdznamnej\u0161ie kub\u00e1nske mesto. Je centrom kub\u00e1nskej hudby a tanca, Fidel v jeho okol\u00ed za\u010dal svoje ozbrojen\u00e9 povstanie a tu ho takisto zakon\u010dil. Balk\u00f3n, z ktor\u00e9ho tu mal svoju pam\u00e4tn\u00fa re\u010d, samozrejme e\u0161te st\u00e1le stoj\u00ed (asi jedin\u00e1 zre\u0161taurovan\u00e1 budova v meste). Santiago je v\u0161ak okrem toho \u0161kared\u00e9, \u0161pinav\u00e9 mesto pln\u00e9 jineteros, \u00fazkych ul\u00edc a nebezpe\u010dne jazdiacich \u0161of\u00e9rov. \u013dudia s\u00fa tu na d\u00f4va\u017eok bezo\u010divej\u0161\u00ed a nepriate\u013eskej\u0161\u00ed, ako inde na Kube. Ani sa im pr\u00edli\u0161 ne\u010dudujem.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Z Trinidadu prich\u00e1dzame do Camaguey 20. febru\u00e1ra. Je to zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00e9 mesto s \u00fazkymi uli\u010dkami a hustou prem\u00e1vkou, ktor\u00e9 je tranzitn\u00fdm bodom medzi v\u00fdchodom (Oriente) a zbytkom Kuby. Niet tu ve\u013ea turistov, ani atrakci\u00ed. Camaguey je v\u0161ak pr\u00e1ve preto zauj\u00edmav\u00e9; mo\u017eno tu pozorova\u0165 dom\u00e1cich vo svojom norm\u00e1lnom prostred\u00ed, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina barov a re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed je v kub\u00e1nskych pesos…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1456,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354,73],"tags":[345,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/77"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=77"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/77\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2400,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/77\/revisions\/2400"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1456"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=77"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=77"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=77"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}