{"id":65,"date":"2007-02-20T00:05:50","date_gmt":"2007-02-19T22:05:50","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=65"},"modified":"2019-01-20T15:12:07","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T13:12:07","slug":"trinidad","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/trinidad","title":{"rendered":"Trinidad"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Trinidad,<\/p>\n

Havanu sme opustili 17. febru\u00e1ra. Mierime na juh, do koloni\u00e1lneho meste\u010dka Trinidad. Samotn\u00e1 cesta autobusom n\u00e1s priprav\u00ed na ve\u013ea z vec\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 n\u00e1s e\u0161te na Kube \u010dakaj\u00fa. Po\u010das kr\u00e1tkej zast\u00e1vky vystupujeme na dia\u013eni\u010dnom parkovisku s bufetmi; okolo n\u00e1s pr\u00e1ve prefr\u010d\u00ed storo\u010dn\u00fd kami\u00f3nov\u00fd \u0165aha\u010d s dvomi dlh\u00fdmi hol\u00fdmi plo\u0161inami-pr\u00edvesmi. Obe s\u00fa pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed. Panicky \u010dak\u00e1m, kedy sa kone\u010dne pok\u00fasia zo z\u00fafalstva zosko\u010di\u0165, sk\u00f4r, ako ich v z\u00e1krute odstrediv\u00e1 sila sama zmie\u0161a so zvodidlom a kvitn\u00facimi kr\u00edkmi. Kami\u00f3n vskutku prudko zabrzd\u00ed priamo na dia\u013enici, na\u010do sa dav len zavln\u00ed a prijme na plo\u0161inu nieko\u013ek\u00fdch \u010fal\u0161\u00edch stop\u00e1rov. Cel\u00e1 masa sa op\u00e4\u0165 poh\u00fdna, niektor\u00ed \u013eudia spievaj\u00fa. Ke\u010f sa dym z v\u00fdfuku rozplynie, cez dia\u013enicu e\u0161te d\u00f4stojne prejde odrasten\u00e9 \u010dierne prasa nasledovan\u00e9 nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi kozami a ba\u010dom.<\/p>\n

Pokia\u013e ide o cestovanie, nie je to na Kube a\u017e tak\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9. Najd\u00f4le\u017eitej\u0161ie mest\u00e1 sp\u00e1ja ka\u017edodenn\u00e1 autobusov\u00e1 linka luxusnej triedy, plat\u00ed sa samozrejme v kub\u00e1nskych bonoch convertibles (CUC), ktor\u00e9 si m\u00f4\u017ee dovoli\u0165 len m\u00e1loktor\u00fd dom\u00e1ci. Existuje i druh\u00e1 trieda, v p\u00f4vodnej \u201e\u013eudovej\u201c mene, na ktorej l\u00edstky sa \u010dak\u00e1 nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed alebo t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov a pre mnoh\u00fdch je e\u0161te st\u00e1le pridrah\u00e1. To ist\u00e9 plat\u00ed o vlakoch, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa navy\u0161e \u0161pinav\u00e9, pln\u00e9 zlodejov, neuverite\u013ene pomal\u00e9 a absol\u00fatne v\u017edy me\u0161kaj\u00fa o nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn. A pr\u00e1ve tu prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa do hry posledn\u00e9 dve alternat\u00edvy. Prvou s\u00fa n\u00e1kladn\u00e9 aut\u00e1, ktor\u00e9 v pravideln\u00fdch intervaloch (tj. raz za de\u0148) kr\u00fa\u017eia po vyzna\u010den\u00fdch tras\u00e1ch; cestuj\u00facich vozia na upraven\u00fdch korb\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

A napokon je tu ustanovize\u0148 povinnej solidarity vo\u010di stop\u00e1rom, ktorej som bol svedkom. V\u0161etky slu\u017eobn\u00e9 aut\u00e1 maj\u00fa na Kube \u0160PZ-ku modrej farby a v r\u00e1mci svojich mo\u017enost\u00ed s\u00fa povinn\u00e9 zastavova\u0165 stop\u00e1rom (sn\u00e1\u010f s v\u00fdnimkou Fidelovho auta). Na hlavn\u00fdch kri\u017eovatk\u00e1ch ve\u013ek\u00fdch miest dokonca post\u00e1vaj\u00fa \u0161t\u00e1tni zamestnanci, profesion\u00e1lne stopuj\u00fa okoloid\u00face aut\u00e1 a d\u00e1vaj\u00fa pozor na poriadok v \u0161\u00f3re a prednos\u0165 star\u0161\u00edm osob\u00e1m.<\/p>\n

Mesto Trini\"Trinidad\"<\/a>dad je ospal\u00e9, pln\u00e9 nadh\u00e1\u0148a\u010dov (tzv. jineteros) a na \u010diernom trhu tu lacno k\u00fapite kvalitn\u00e9 kub\u00e1nske cigary, poctivo ukradnut\u00e9 priamo z fabriky. Jineteros sa na v\u00e1s vrhn\u00fa u\u017e od prv\u00e9ho kroku, ke\u010f vyst\u00fapite z autobusu. Dve pochybn\u00e9 indiv\u00eddu\u00e1 vlez\u00fa do jeho bato\u017einov\u00e9ho priestoru a nedovolia v\u00e1m zobra\u0165 si ruksak. Urobia to oni; vyp\u00fdtaj\u00fa si za to 1 CUC. \u010eal\u0161\u00edch sto sa tla\u010d\u00ed pri v\u00fdchode zo stanice. Len policajt im br\u00e1ni, aby sa na v\u00e1s rovno nevrhli so svojimi absurdn\u00fdmi ponukami a zaru\u010den\u00fdmi z\u013eavami za stravu a ubytovanie.<\/p>\n

Jineteros s\u00fa na Kube neuverite\u013ene otravn\u00ed, ich slu\u017eby a ponuky zase takmer v\u017edy predra\u017een\u00e9, alebo zbyto\u010dn\u00e9. Jinetero sa m\u00f4\u017ee vyk\u013eu\u0165 z kohoko\u013evek; t\u00ed najvulg\u00e1rnej\u0161\u00ed na v\u00e1s pokrikuj\u00fa z mopedov a bicyklov, \u010dasto je n\u00edm v\u0161ak aj ak\u00fdko\u013evek pr\u00edjemn\u00fd a uhladen\u00fd Kub\u00e1nec, s ktor\u00fdm\/ktorou sa zozn\u00e1mite pri poh\u00e1riku alebo v autobuse, a sk\u00f4r \u010di nesk\u00f4r v\u00e1m alebo nie\u010do pon\u00fakne, nazna\u010d\u00ed, \u017ee m\u00e1te zaplati\u0165 jeho \u00fa\u010det, alebo sa v\u00e1s \u00faplne jednoducho pok\u00fasi okradn\u00fa\u0165.<\/p>\n

Kub\u00e1nci to v podstate nemyslia zle. Najm\u00e4 t\u00ed mlad\u00ed si v\u0161ak pr\u00edli\u0161 dobre uvedomuj\u00fa svoje postavenie a biedu a na druhej strane, va\u0161e peniaze a slobodu. Sme pre nich hl\u00fape biele bytosti, ktor\u00fdch fun\"Justyna<\/a>kcia spo\u010d\u00edva v m\u00ed\u0148an\u00ed pe\u0148az\u00ed. Vo va\u0161ej bl\u00edzkosti (tj. v bl\u00edzkosti pe\u0148az\u00ed) \u00faplne str\u00e1caj\u00fa rozum aj ak\u00fako\u013evek d\u00f4stojnos\u0165. S\u013e\u00fabia a pon\u00faknu v\u00e1m v\u0161etko, aj to, \u010do nebud\u00fa m\u00f4c\u0165 nikdy splni\u0165. Nie je \u013eahk\u00e9 sa ich zbavi\u0165; nad\u00e1vky nefunguj\u00fa a fyzick\u00e9 n\u00e1silie som (zatia\u013e) nesk\u00fa\u0161al. Vynikaj\u00facim liekom s\u00fa v\u0161ak policajti. Kub\u00e1nci maj\u00fa zak\u00e1zan\u00fd kontakt s cudzincami, \u010do je smutn\u00fd pr\u00edklad toho, ako funguje politick\u00e1 diktat\u00fara, ale m\u00e1 ve\u013emi pozit\u00edvny vplyv na bezpe\u010dnos\u0165 cudzincov. Plat\u00ed to i o kriminalite; turisti s\u00fa pod\u013ea kub\u00e1nskej mentality nedotknute\u013en\u00ed a v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou sa s vami jedn\u00e1 nanajv\u00fd\u0161 \u00factivo, a to dokonca aj ke\u010f sa v\u00e1s pr\u00e1ve sna\u017eia okradn\u00fa\u0165.<\/p>\n

V Trinidade sa vyd\u00e1vame bicyklami do okolia, v minulosti nesl\u00e1vne zn\u00e1meho obrovsk\u00fdm\"imga0746.JPG\"<\/a>i plant\u00e1\u017eami cukrovej trstiny a ne\u013eudsk\u00fdm zaobch\u00e1dzan\u00edm s pracuj\u00facimi otrokmi. Miestni n\u00e1s od bicyklov odhov\u00e1raj\u00fa: turisti sa na dovolenke nemaj\u00fa nam\u00e1ha\u0165! Nie\u010do v\u0161ak na tom bude. V\u00fdlet n\u00e1s \u00faplne odrovnal, ale v\u00fdlu\u010dne kv\u00f4li samotn\u00fdm bicyklom. Moje hmlist\u00e9 spomianky na let\u00e1, str\u00e1ven\u00e9 u dedka pri Pie\u0161\u0165anoch, sa via\u017eu pr\u00e1ve na desiatky rokov star\u00fd a neuverite\u013ene \u0165a\u017ek\u00fd bicykel typu Ukrajina , ktor\u00fd v\u0161ak dedko (obe `d` <\/span>\u010d\u00edtaj natvrdo) \u201ezrichtuvali tak, \u017ee do \u0161enku si na nim \u0161eu jak na hadv\u00e1b.\u201c<\/p>\n

Priemern\u00fd kub\u00e1nsky bicykel hr\u00e1 v\u0161ak oproti tomu dedkovmi neporovnate\u013ene ni\u017e\u0161iu ligu. Treba samozrejme \u00faplne zabudn\u00fa\u0165 na prevody (do masovej v\u00fdroby prenikli a\u017e po revol\u00facii), brzdy pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 len ve\u013emi symbolicky a neust\u00e1le padaj\u00facu re\u0165az vyu\u017ei\u0165 na fotenie okolia. Najz\u00e1kernej\u0161ie s\u00fa v\u0161ak sedadl\u00e1: na t\u00fdch na\u0161ich dominuje vy\u0161\u00edvan\u00e1 \u010derven\u00e1 hviezda a v\u010faka zvl\u00e1\u0161tnej ergon\u00f3mii sedadla v\u00e1m okam\u017eite vlezie do… Ak na takomto sedadle str\u00e1vite cel\u00fd de\u0148, s prekvapen\u00edm zist\u00edte, \u017ee \u201ema\u0165 bo\u013eav\u00e9 svaly a kosti\u201c je mo\u017en\u00e9 aj tam, kde ste doteraz tu\u0161ili len koniec hrub\u00e9ho \u010dreva.<\/p>\n

I napriek bicyklom v\u0161ak p\u00e4\u0165desiatkilometrov\u00fd v\u00fdlet st\u00e1l za to, u\u017e len kv\u00f4li samotn\u00e9mu kub\"imga0744.JPG\"<\/a>\u00e1nskemu vidieku, k\u0155d\u013eu obrovsk\u00fdch supov po\u017eieraj\u00facich zrazen\u00e9ho psa, kv\u00f4li palm\u00e1m a ban\u00e1novn\u00edkom chvej\u00facim sa na pozad\u00ed vzdialen\u00fdch h\u00f4r a kv\u00f4li pokojn\u00fdm krav\u00e1m, ktor\u00e9 v\u017edy str\u00e1\u017ei mal\u00fd biely bocian, d\u00fafaj\u00faci v \u010derv\u00edky a parazity od svojho ve\u013ek\u00e9ho melancholick\u00e9ho spolo\u010dn\u00edka.<\/p>\n

V Trinidade e\u0161te vysk\u00fa\u0161ame na\u0161u prv\u00fa kub\u00e1nsku pl\u00e1\u017e. Biely piesok a farebn\u00e1 kompoz\u00edcia ako z poh\u013eadnice s\u00fa tak\u00e9 ist\u00e9, ako ich pozn\u00e1me z in\u00fdch \u010dast\u00ed Karibiku, voda je v\u0161ak prekvapuj\u00faco studen\u00e1 a my pr\u00edli\u0161 sp\u00e1len\u00ed z bicyklov\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu (UV faktor 50 na Kube nesta\u010d\u00ed).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Havanu sme opustili 17. febru\u00e1ra. Mierime na juh, do koloni\u00e1lneho meste\u010dka Trinidad. Samotn\u00e1 cesta autobusom n\u00e1s priprav\u00ed na ve\u013ea z vec\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 n\u00e1s e\u0161te na Kube \u010dakaj\u00fa. Po\u010das kr\u00e1tkej zast\u00e1vky vystupujeme na dia\u013eni\u010dnom parkovisku s bufetmi; okolo n\u00e1s pr\u00e1ve prefr\u010d\u00ed storo\u010dn\u00fd kami\u00f3nov\u00fd \u0165aha\u010d s dvomi dlh\u00fdmi hol\u00fdmi plo\u0161inami-pr\u00edvesmi. Obe s\u00fa pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed. Panicky \u010dak\u00e1m, kedy…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1448,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[124,345,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=65"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8160,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/65\/revisions\/8160"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1448"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=65"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=65"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=65"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}