{"id":62,"date":"2007-02-17T23:50:16","date_gmt":"2007-02-17T21:50:16","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=62"},"modified":"2019-01-20T15:13:03","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T13:13:03","slug":"havana","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/havana","title":{"rendered":"Havana"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Havana<\/p>\n

\"Prv\u00e9<\/a>Kuba sa n\u00e1m okam\u017eite prilep\u00ed so spoten\u00fdm tri\u010dkom na telo: stoj\u00edme v nev\u013e\u00fadnej hale pred colnou kontrolou, \u013eud\u00ed pred nami vybavuj\u00fa pomaly a d\u00f4kladne. Cigaretov\u00fd dym okolo n\u00e1s sa d\u00e1 kr\u00e1ja\u0165; pomaly postupujeme v rade a nebezpe\u010dne sa bl\u00ed\u017eime k v\u00e4zensk\u00fdm okienkam a bielym nemocni\u010dn\u00fdm dver\u00e1m. Je 11. febru\u00e1r 2007. Sme na rade.<\/p>\n

Coln\u00ed\u010dka je mlad\u00e1 a pekn\u00e1; po s\u00e9rii absurdn\u00fdch ot\u00e1zok v l\u00e1manej angli\u010dtine, mieren\u00fdch do v\u0161etk\u00fdch z\u00e1kut\u00ed m\u00f4jho s\u00fakromn\u00e9ho \u017eivota, e\u0161te naposledy nap\u00edna sily a \u017eiada ma o neexistuj\u00faci spiato\u010dn\u00fd l\u00edstok. Odkazujem ju na neexistuj\u00facu webov\u00fa str\u00e1nku s nanajv\u00fd\u0161 pochybne znej\u00facim \u010d\u00edslom rezerv\u00e1cie, ktor\u00e9 jej i napriek protestom vyhl\u00e1skujem v angli\u010dtine.<\/p>\n

\"Centr\u00e1lna<\/a>\u017dena sa st\u00e1va po zmienke o internete krajne nerv\u00f3zna. Ke\u010f ju n\u00fatim, aby si zap\u00edsala moju webov\u00fa adresu a mail (rozdiel medzi nimi sa sna\u017e\u00ed bez\u00faspe\u0161ne pochopi\u0165), vst\u00e1va zo stoli\u010dky a \u017eiada ma, aby som odi\u0161iel. Vch\u00e1dzam do \u010fal\u0161ej haly, cez \u010fal\u0161iu kontrolu (prich\u00e1dzam o jablk\u00e1 a tortillu), e\u0161te jednu kontrolu (prich\u00e1dzam o pas) a okam\u017eite na to \u010fal\u0161iu kontrolu, kde na chirurgickom stole sk\u00famame obsah mojej bato\u017einy.<\/p>\n

Coln\u00edka, ktor\u00fd tentoraz vyzer\u00e1, akoby mal dvan\u00e1s\u0165 rokov a ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no si nalepoval otcove falo\u0161n\u00e9 f\u00fazy, zaujm\u00fa len dve veci. Prvou je leskl\u00fd rozkladac\u00ed cestovn\u00fd \u0161ach, ktor\u00e9ho dizajn ho \u00faprimne fascinuje; druhou vecou je po\u013esk\u00fd filozofick\u00fd magaz\u00edn \u201ePolitick\u00e1 kritika”. Krv mi okam\u017eite zamrzne v \u017eil\u00e1ch. Tento brilantn\u00fd \u010dasopis uverej\u0148uje aj odv\u00e1\u017ene umeleck\u00e9 projekty, v tomto \u010d\u00edsle fotografie z r\u00f4znych vojensk\u00fdch konfliktov a ob\u010dianskych nepokojov. \u010co je e\u0161te hor\u0161ie, na posledn\u00fdch stran\u00e1ch sa na v\u00e1s usmievaj\u00fa \u0161iesti mu\u017esk\u00ed obyvatelia centra Havany, ktor\u00ed s rados\u0165ou s\u00fahlasili, \u017ee za dvadsa\u0165 dol\u00e1rov bud\u00fa onanova\u0165 priamo do objekt\u00edvu. Coln\u00edk sa v\u0161ak zastavuje pri \u010dierno-bielych hol\u00fdch zadkoch ak\u00fdchsi mexick\u00fdch robotn\u00ed\u010dok, vracia mi kni\u017eku a oslovuje \u010fal\u0161iu obe\u0165.<\/p>\n

Napokon dost\u00e1vam i svoj pas a vych\u00e1dzame von; po tv\u00e1rach n\u00e1s udiera vlhk\u00e1, lepkav\u00e1, smrad\u013eav\u00e1 hor\u00fa\u010dava febru\u00e1rovej noci. Tax\u00edk n\u00e1s vezie pr\u00e1zdnymi bulv\u00e1rmi; stret\u00e1vame len m\u00e1lo \u00e1ut, zato \u010doraz viac bilboardov a n\u00e1pisov na sten\u00e1ch. Sna\u017eia sa preda\u0165 len jeden produkt: Fidela a jeho revol\u00faciu. Usmievav\u00fd, dobr\u00e1cky Dedo Jozef z plag\u00e1tov v\u0161ak ni\u010d\u00edm nepripom\u00edna vychrdnut\u00e9ho mrzk\u00e9ho starca v zaprden\u00fdch \u0161u\u0161tiakoch zna\u010dky adidas, ktor\u00e9ho som naposledy v\u00eddaval v telev\u00edzii. Ja osobne som v\u0161ak \u0161\u0165astn\u00fd, \u017ee sme dorazili na\u010das a e\u0161te d\u00fdcha.<\/p>\n

\"V<\/a>Bulv\u00e1ry sa pomaly zu\u017euj\u00fa a zhus\u0165uj\u00fa, prech\u00e1dzame stredom mesta. O chv\u00ed\u013eu u\u017e vstupujeme do samotn\u00e9ho srdca Havany, do neuverite\u013ene o\u0161arpan\u00fdch, neskuto\u010dne smrad\u013eav\u00fdch, n\u00e1dherne ukri\u010dan\u00fdch a predov\u0161etk\u00fdm, najpr\u00ed\u0165a\u017elivej\u0161\u00edch a najneopakovate\u013enej\u0161\u00edch, \u00fazkych ul\u00edc star\u00e9ho mesta (Habana Vieja).<\/p>\n

Jeho \u00fatroby s\u00fa pln\u00e9 blata a odpadkov; st\u00fapite tu do lajna konsk\u00e9ho, zmie\u0161an\u00e9ho s \u013eudsk\u00fdm, psa\u010d\u00edm a ktovie\u010d\u00edm e\u0161te; na hlavu v\u00e1m m\u00f4\u017ee spadn\u00fa\u0165 tehla z prekr\u00e1snych, rozpad\u00e1vaj\u00facich sa domov, ale aj vedro hor\u00facej vody. Kub\u00e1nci v\u00e1s prevalcuj\u00fa svojim krikom a spevom. Za nezmyselne vysok\u00fa cenu v\u00e1m vtisn\u00fa \u010dosi, \u010do ste nikdy nepotrebovali a e\u0161te si vyp\u00fdtaj\u00fa sprepitn\u00e9. Vy ich za to budete zajtra zdravi\u0165 na ulici, akoby ste boli star\u00ed zn\u00e1mi. Napriek tomu, r\u00e1no sa zobud\u00edte s vysu\u0161en\u00fdm jazykom, smrad\u013eav\u00fdm dychom a pr\u00e1zdnou f\u013ea\u0161ou rumu zna\u010dky Havana Club: potrasiete hlavou a op\u00e4\u0165 vyraz\u00edte do t\u00fdch n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch ul\u00edc, do kostolov, trhov a cez davy turistov, veden\u00fdch \u017eovi\u00e1lnymi sprievodcami s falo\u0161n\u00fdmi visa\u010dkami na prsiach.<\/p>\n

\"Havansk\u00e9<\/a>V Havane tr\u00e1vime nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed; n\u00e1\u0161 penzi\u00f3nik m\u00e1 terasu, priamo susediacu s jedn\u00fdm z desiatok ministerstiev. Ministerstvo sa neodli\u0161uje od svojho okolia, ktor\u00e9 vyzer\u00e1 ako po \u013eahkom \u00fadere taktickej nukle\u00e1rnej hlavice: \u010das\u0165 okien nem\u00e1 skl\u00e1 alebo z nich vysia len \u010drepy, odv\u0161adia\u013e opad\u00e1va omietka a r\u00fdny visia v povetr\u00ed i napriek gravita\u010dn\u00e9mu z\u00e1konu. Jedinou zn\u00e1mkou v\u00fdlu\u010dnosti s\u00fa tu zhrdzaven\u00e9 krabice klimatiz\u00e1ci\u00ed a zhusten\u00e9 policajn\u00e9 hliadky na rohoch.<\/p>\n

\u00c1propos, policajti. Havana, rovnako ako ka\u017ed\u00e9 kub\u00e1nske mesto, je ich pln\u00e1. Stoja takmer na ka\u017edom rohu, vo v\u0161etk\u00fdch mo\u017en\u00fdch uniform\u00e1ch. V\u010faka tomu sa my, turisti, m\u00f4\u017eeme c\u00edti\u0165 tak bezpe\u010dne, ako nikde inde v \u0161t\u00e1toch Latinskej ameriky (u\u017e ani nehovoriac o Spojen\u00fdch \u0161t\u00e1toch). \u00daplne inak to v\u0161ak c\u00edtia samotn\u00ed Kub\u00e1nci: policajti sa k nim spr\u00e1vaj\u00fa neuverite\u013ene pov\u00fd\u0161enecky, pri d\u00f4kladnej\u0161om pozorovan\u00ed si v\u0161imnete rovnak\u00e9 \u0161ikanovanie, ak\u00e9 je typick\u00e9 pre v\u0161etky diktat\u00fary, zrasten\u00e9 so svojimi ozbrojen\u00fdmi zlo\u017ekami.<\/p>\n

\"Havana<\/a>V prv\u00fdch d\u0148och n\u00e1\u0161ho pobytu sa sna\u017e\u00edme n\u00e1js\u0165 okrem in\u00e9ho aj internet. Nie je to jednoduch\u00e9. Tak, ako so v\u0161etk\u00fdmi vecami, ktor\u00e9 za\u010dali na Kube existova\u0165 a\u017e po Fidelovej revol\u00facii, pripojenie na internet je tu neraz zlo\u017eit\u00e1 z\u00e1le\u017eitos\u0165, vy\u017eaduj\u00faca vytrvalos\u0165 a trpezlivos\u0165. Ani jedna z t\u00fdchto cnost\u00ed sa v\u00e1m napokon nevyplat\u00ed; cena je tak\u00e1 vysok\u00e1 a r\u00fdchlos\u0165 pripojenia tak\u00e1 n\u00edzka, \u017ee nakoniec rezignujete a svoje peniaze investujete ove\u013ea m\u00fadrej\u0161ie do kub\u00e1nskeho rumu. Prietok d\u00e1t napokon obmedzuje i samotn\u00e1 kub\u00e1nska vl\u00e1da, v snahe kontrolova\u0165 obsah informa\u010dn\u00fdch tokov, pr\u00fadiacich medzi Kubou a zbytkom sveta.<\/p>\n

E\u0161te pred nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi rokmi bolo pod\u013ea spr\u00e1v cestovate\u013eov na Kube probl\u00e9mom n\u00e1js\u0165 v\u00f4bec ako-tak z\u00e1soben\u00fd obchod, aby ste nemuseli by\u0165 z\u00e1visl\u00ed od smie\u0161ne predra\u017een\u00fdch turistick\u00fdch re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed. Na\u0161a vegetari\u00e1nska kalv\u00e1ria je u\u017e dnes na Kube o \u010dosi lep\u0161ia. Vl\u00e1da medzi\u010dasom za\u010dala s nov\u00fdm valutov\u00fdm obe\u017eivom \u201epesos convertibles\u201c, ktor\u00e1 pri n\u00e1kupe luxusnej\u0161\u00edch tovarov nahradila americk\u00fd dol\u00e1r. Ide teda o \u010dosi ve\u013emi podobn\u00e9 na\u0161im niekdaj\u0161\u00edm bonom, ktor\u00fdmi sa platievalo v tuzexe.<\/p>\n

\"Na<\/a>Znamen\u00e1 to \u017ee v\u0161etko, \u010do bolo a na\u010falej ost\u00e1va pre drviv\u00fa v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu Kub\u00e1ncov \u00faplne nedostupn\u00e9, napr\u00edklad z\u00e1chodov\u00e9 misy alebo koberec, si tak dnes u\u017e aspo\u0148 mo\u017eno v\u00f4bec k\u00fapi\u0165, aj ke\u010f za ceny, porovnate\u013en\u00e9 s najdrah\u0161\u00edmi krajinami E\u00da. Kuba je pre nez\u00e1visl\u00fdch cestovate\u013eov skuto\u010dne drahou destin\u00e1ciou, ale aspo\u0148 sa zv\u00fd\u0161ila dostupnos\u0165 produktov ako je maslo, syry alebo f\u013ea\u0161kov\u00e1 voda. Vegetari\u00e1ni to maj\u00fa o to hor\u0161ie, \u017ee dokonca aj v s\u00fakromnom ubytovan\u00ed nad vami dom\u00e1ci neraz pokr\u010dia plecami, hoci nakoniec sa v\u017edy n\u00e1jde nejak\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9 exotick\u00e9 jedlo, ako kore\u0148 z yuky na cesnaku, vypr\u00e1\u017ean\u00e9 ban\u00e1ny, alebo aspo\u0148 tradi\u010dn\u00e9 \u201earroz con frijoles\u201c (ry\u017ea s fazu\u013eou).<\/p>\n

Na Kube n\u00e1jdete i \u010doraz viac s\u00fa\u010dast\u00ed z\u00e1padn\u00e9ho konzumn\u00e9ho \u017eivota. Pam\u00e4t\u00e1te si na heinekenovsk\u00fa dotierav\u00fa reklamu, pod\u013ea ktorej je ich pivo na Kube striktne nedostupn\u00e9 u\u017e p\u00e4\u0165desiat rokov? Nu\u017e, neverte marketingu. N\u00e1jdete ho tu \u013eahko, predra\u017een\u00fd a rovnako mdl\u00fd, s umelohmotnou penou a kyslastou pachu\u0165ou na jazyku, ako ho pozn\u00e1me z domu.<\/p>\n

\"V<\/a>Probl\u00e9my so z\u00e1sobovan\u00edm m\u00e1 Kuba i napriek tomu st\u00e1le. V\u010fa\u010d\u00ed za to svojmu ve\u013ek\u00e9mu severn\u00e9mu bratovi, ktor\u00fd od prezident\u00fary George W. Busha st\u00e1le zostruje u\u017e i tak neuverite\u013ene nehor\u00e1zne a nespravodliv\u00e9 embargo. USA \u010doraz viac obmedzuj\u00fa snahy o z\u00e1sobovanie i z\u00e1kladn\u00fdmi predmetmi dennej spotreby, ale aj liekov (!), potrav\u00edn a naposledy aj v\u00fdmenn\u00fdch vzdel\u00e1vac\u00edch programov, u\u010debn\u00edc a pod. Napriek tomu, Kuba st\u00e1le pulzuje \u017eivotom a Spojen\u00fdm \u0161t\u00e1tom ukazuje vzt\u00fd\u010den\u00fd prostredn\u00edk.<\/p>\n

Po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch d\u0148och v Havane sa napokon stret\u00e1vame i s ist\u00fdm na\u0161im internetov\u00fdm kub\u00e1nskym kamar\u00e1tom. Poz\u00fdva n\u00e1s nave\u010der k sebe domov. Je pr\u00e1ve sv\u00e4t\u00e9ho Valent\u00edna; z\u00e1sobujeme sa teda tekutinami a vyr\u00e1\u017eame do inej \u010dasti mesta. Ideme po zn\u00e1mej pobre\u017enej promen\u00e1de Malec\u00f3n, cez \u010d\u00ednsku \u0161tvr\u0165, v ktorej u\u017e nen\u00e1jdete nijak\u00fdch \u010c\u00ed\u0148anov, cez nov\u0161ie a honosnej\u0161ie \u0161tvrte, a\u017e k uliciam s n\u00edzkymi dom\u010dekmi a skromn\u00fdmi bytmi. Stretla sa tu h\u0155stka dom\u00e1cich a \u010fal\u0161\u00ed cestovate\u013e, Rodrigo z \u010cile. Rodrigo sa pr\u00e1ve smrte\u013ene za\u013e\u00fabil do istej Slovenky, ktor\u00fa stretol na svojich kub\u00e1nskych potulk\u00e1ch. Jeho sm\u00fatok z rozchodu teda zap\u00edjame rumom a pivom; Kub\u00e1nci kontruj\u00fa v\u00fdborn\u00fdmi jedlom a historkami zo svojho ne\u013eahk\u00e9ho \u017eivota.<\/p>\n

\"Iskri\u010dky,<\/a>Onedlho nato nech\u00e1vame Havanu svojmu osudu. Odch\u00e1dzame r\u00e1no, ke\u010f sa e\u0161te iskri\u010dky a pionieri nepokojne mrvia v posteliach a prolet\u00e1ri v\u0161etk\u00fdch farieb sa v\u00e1\u0161nivo sp\u00e1jaj\u00fa s prolet\u00e1rkami. Len znuden\u00fd Che, n\u00e1padne podobn\u00fd Je\u017ei\u0161ovi Kristovi a hrdinom z telenoviel, n\u00e1s podozrievavo pozoruje z vyblednut\u00fdch bilboardov cestou na stanicu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Kuba sa n\u00e1m okam\u017eite prilep\u00ed so spoten\u00fdm tri\u010dkom na telo: stoj\u00edme v nev\u013e\u00fadnej hale pred colnou kontrolou, \u013eud\u00ed pred nami vybavuj\u00fa pomaly a d\u00f4kladne. Cigaretov\u00fd dym okolo n\u00e1s sa d\u00e1 kr\u00e1ja\u0165; pomaly postupujeme v rade a nebezpe\u010dne sa bl\u00ed\u017eime k v\u00e4zensk\u00fdm okienkam a bielym nemocni\u010dn\u00fdm dver\u00e1m. Je 11. febru\u00e1r 2007. Sme na rade. Coln\u00ed\u010dka je…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1454,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[129,345,408,112,91],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=62"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8161,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/62\/revisions\/8161"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1454"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=62"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=62"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=62"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}