{"id":5515,"date":"2016-11-02T15:47:37","date_gmt":"2016-11-02T13:47:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=5515"},"modified":"2019-02-18T17:53:01","modified_gmt":"2019-02-18T15:53:01","slug":"prve-dni-v-donecku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/prve-dni-v-donecku","title":{"rendered":"Prv\u00e9 dni v Donecku"},"content":{"rendered":"

Prechod cez hranicu z Ruskej feder\u00e1cie do Donecka: gruz\u00ednsky \u0161of\u00e9r Sa\u0161a n\u00e1s vyzdvihne v ruskom Rostove a svoj\u00edm rozhegan\u00fdm tax\u00edkom vyr\u00e1\u017ea smerom na z\u00e1pad. Mojou spolo\u010dn\u00ed\u010dkou je T\u00e1\u0148a, priate\u013eka \u010desk\u00e9ho separatistu Behemota. \u017de \u00fatle diev\u010da spiace na zadnom sedadle i napriek v\u00fdtlkom, je v skuto\u010dnosti rusk\u00e1 snajperka ostrie\u013ean\u00e1 v boji, sa dozviem a\u017e nesk\u00f4r.<\/p>\n

Behemot mi nesk\u00f4r prezrad\u00ed e\u0161te aj to, \u017ee moje dva metre a sto k\u00edl, v spojen\u00ed so zlomen\u00fdm nosom a tv\u00e1rou bitk\u00e1ra, mali by\u0165 pre T\u00e1\u0148u diskr\u00e9tnou ochranou. Lebo financie do Doneckej \u013eudovej republiky neprich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa zvonka cez bankov\u00e9 \u00fa\u010dty a platobn\u00e9 karty, ale v hotovosti, v kufroch a vreck\u00e1ch. Bezhotovostn\u00fd platobn\u00fd styk medzi DNR a vonkaj\u0161\u00edm svetom pre smrte\u013en\u00edkov takmer neexistuje.<\/p>\n

Hranica, to s\u00fa dve hodiny \u010dakania a dlh\u00fd rad \u00e1ut na v\u00fdstupnej kontrole z Ruska do krajiny, ktor\u00e1 vlastne neexistuje, ot\u00e1zky a podozrenia:
\n\u010co tu chce\u0161? Ty \u017eurnalist?
\nJa? Ak\u00fd \u017eurnalist? Ale pros\u00edm v\u00e1s!
\nNasleduje kontrola bato\u017einy, no pochybnosti rozpt\u00fdli a\u017e T\u00e1\u0148a: uk\u00e1\u017ee vojensk\u00fa kni\u017eku z DNR a rusk\u00fd pas, koketne sa usmeje a prehl\u00e1si, \u017ee som jej slovensk\u00fd frajer. Koniec diskusie, m\u00f4\u017eeme \u00eds\u0165.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Cestou\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Sobota, 24. september 2016. V meste Doneck je chladn\u00e9, slne\u010dn\u00e9 r\u00e1no. Na ulici Artema takmer niet prem\u00e1vky. V\u0161ade vl\u00e1dne pokoj, mier a zlatist\u00e9 babie leto. Mesto je \u010dist\u00e9, \u013eudia sa usmievaj\u00fa a diev\u010dat\u00e1 nosia neodmyslite\u013en\u00fd vyz\u00fdvav\u00fd mejkap a biele \u010di\u017emi\u010dky. Neklamn\u00fd znak, \u017ee sme vo v\u00fdchodnej Eur\u00f3pe.<\/p>\n

Mesto funguje rovnako ako ka\u017ed\u00e1 in\u00e1 eur\u00f3pska metropola. Je tu \u010disto, v\u0161ade s\u00fa otvoren\u00e9 kaviarne a re\u0161taur\u00e1cie a na bulv\u00e1roch prem\u00e1vaj\u00fa trolejbusy. Cena l\u00edstka? Tri rusk\u00e9 ruble, teda \u0161tyri eurocenty. Pokuta: 60 rub\u013eov (85 eurocentov). Stretn\u00fa\u0165 rev\u00edzora teda znamen\u00e1 zaplati\u0165 st\u00e1le menej, ako hodinov\u00fd l\u00edstok v Bratislave.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Bl\u0161\u00ed\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

V prv\u00fd de\u0148 si e\u0161te stihnem vybavi\u0165 SIM kartu u miestnych oper\u00e1torov. Dostanem ukrajinsk\u00e9 \u010d\u00edslo a pomal\u00fd internet, ktor\u00fd vraj v separatistick\u00fdch regi\u00f3noch umelo zni\u017euje vl\u00e1da v Kyjeve, aby tak s\u0165a\u017eila \u017eivot nepriate\u013eovi. Druh\u00e1 mo\u017enos\u0165 je lok\u00e1lny oper\u00e1tor Fenix, ktor\u00fd m\u00e1 internet rovnako pomal\u00fd alebo \u017eiadny, a ktor\u00e9ho vyu\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa vojaci DNR na fronte, v obav\u00e1ch, \u017ee Ukrajina m\u00f4\u017ee celo\u0161t\u00e1tnych oper\u00e1torov odpo\u010d\u00fava\u0165 a zamera\u0165 ich bojov\u00e9 poz\u00edcie. Lebo na strane DNR u radov\u00fdch vojakov na fronte neexistuje ni\u010d ako vojensk\u00e9 komunika\u010dn\u00e9 syst\u00e9my. Musia sa spolieha\u0165 na mobily a civiln\u00fa infra\u0161trukt\u00faru. Ukrajina to vie a pri v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch ofenz\u00edvach mobiln\u00e9 siete ru\u0161\u00ed alebo celkom vyp\u00edna.<\/p>\n

Ke\u010f sa ve\u010der vraciam do hotela, v baroch sedia \u013eudia a dopravn\u00ed policajti sa prem\u00e1vaj\u00fa v novu\u010di\u010dk\u00fdch Toyot\u00e1ch Prius. Na bl\u0161om trhu pred\u00e1va mu\u017e kober\u010deky s tv\u00e1rou Lenina a ved\u013ea nich – zachoval\u00e9 eses\u00e1cke prilby. Kde mala by\u0165 t\u00e1 stra\u0161n\u00e1 vojna?<\/p>\n

Nakoniec sa zotmie, uplynie hodina a potom e\u0161te jedna. Z ni\u010doho ni\u010d za\u010dne haprova\u0165 mobiln\u00e1 sie\u0165 a mestom sa roz\u013eahne s\u00e9ria tlmen\u00fdch, otriasaj\u00facich v\u00fdbuchov.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Boj\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Pr\u00edprava\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Doneck je pokojn\u00e9, \u010dist\u00e9, priate\u013esk\u00e9 mesto. A\u017e k\u00fdm sa nezotmie. Potom za\u010d\u00edna bombardovanie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5532,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[442,441],"tags":[428,438,431,437],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5515"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5515"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5515\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5534,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5515\/revisions\/5534"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5532"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5515"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5515"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5515"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}