{"id":501,"date":"2007-06-10T22:26:44","date_gmt":"2007-06-10T20:26:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=501"},"modified":"2019-01-20T14:17:34","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T12:17:34","slug":"severna-patagonia-argentina","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/severna-patagonia-argentina","title":{"rendered":"Severn\u00e1 Patag\u00f3nia – Argent\u00edna"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Severn\u00e1<\/p>\n

N\u00e1vrat do Argent\u00edny<\/h2>\n

Po plavbe cez Pacifik a \u010d\u00edlsku Patag\u00f3niu n\u00e1s po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148och op\u00e4\u0165 v\u00edta Argent\u00edna<\/a>. Severopatag\u00f3nske mesto Bariloche je pre Argent\u00edn\u010danov jedn\u00fdm z najob\u013e\u00fabenej\u0161\u00edch miest na dovolenku. Pr\u00eds\u0165 sem na nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed spolu s celou triedou po skon\u010den\u00ed strednej \u0161koly je absol\u00fatnou nevyhnutnos\u0165ou. Ja som sem svojich spolu\u017eiakov zo strednej \u0161koly nepriviedol, ale okrem Justyny s\u00fa s nami aspo\u0148 \u0161ampi\u00f3nka v grcan\u00ed Claudia a jej kamo\u0161ka Sybill.<\/p>\n

\"Mesto<\/a>Bariloche v\u010fa\u010d\u00ed za svoju atraktivitu nieko\u013ek\u00fdm veciam. Le\u017e\u00ed na severnom konci Patag\u00f3nie<\/a>, v regi\u00f3ne zvanom Jazern\u00e1 oblas\u0165. A nie je to len tak. Na jednej jeho strane sa za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa Andy<\/a> a najlep\u0161ie argent\u00ednske ly\u017eiarske stredisk\u00e1, na druhej oblas\u0165 jazier, riek a lesov, ktor\u00e1 presahuje \u010faleko na \u010d\u00edlsku stranu. Samotn\u00e9 Bariloche le\u017e\u00ed na brehu jazera a jeho turistick\u00e9 srdce pulzuje \u017eivotom. Vskutku, je to v\u00fdborn\u00e1 z\u00e1klad\u0148a pre cestovanie, objavovanie tohto n\u00e1dhern\u00e9ho regi\u00f3nu, hoci my sami sme si ho napokon pr\u00edli\u0161 neu\u017eili.<\/p>\n

\"Severopatag\u00f3nske<\/a>Probl\u00e9mom bolo najm\u00e4 po\u010dasie: jedn\u00e9ho r\u00e1na vych\u00e1dzame i s diev\u010datami za mesto do h\u00f4r, no vraciame sa nasp\u00e4\u0165 priamo zo svahu, preto\u017ee hmla je tak\u00e1 hust\u00e1, \u017ee by sme nepri\u0161li nikam. Po\u010das cel\u00e9ho pobytu n\u00e1s severn\u00e1 Patag\u00f3nia prenasleduje hust\u00fdm da\u017e\u010fom alebo sne\u017een\u00edm, chladn\u00fdm vetrom a medzi nimi vz\u00e1cne chv\u00edle slne\u010dn\u00e9ho svitu, v ktorom sa trblieta jazero a vzdialen\u00e9 hory. Mesto Bariloche je akousi karikat\u00farou alpsk\u00e9ho \u0161t\u00fdlu, ke\u010f v centre n\u00e1jdete domy oblo\u017een\u00e9 drevom, \u0161vaj\u010diarske a rak\u00faske n\u00e1zvy re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed a v\u0161ade pod\u00e1vaj\u00fa fond\u0171e alebo \u0161tr\u00fadle.<\/p>\n

V Bariloche za\u010d\u00ednam h\u013eada\u0165 vakc\u00edny na ukon\u010denie svojej o\u010dkovacej k\u00fary. Nijak\u00e9 som nena\u0161iel, v\u010faka tomu som mal v\u0161ak mo\u017enos\u0165 nazrie\u0165 do tmavej, \u0161pinavej verejnej nemocnice a utvrdil som sa v presved\u010den\u00ed, \u017ee v krajine Argent\u00edna ochorie\u0165 veru nemienim.<\/p>\n

Cestovanie cez severn\u00fa Patag\u00f3niu<\/h2>\n

\"Svitanie<\/a>Jedin\u00fd podaren\u00fd v\u00fdlet sme urobili 6. j\u00fana 2007. Prenajali sme si auto spolu so \u0161vaj\u010diarskymi diev\u010datami a Austr\u00e1l\u010danom Petrom, ktor\u00fd sa k n\u00e1m pridal v hosteli. Vybrali sme sa na okru\u017en\u00fa cestu okolo siedmych miestnych jazier, no po cel\u00fd de\u0148 pr\u0161alo tak husto, \u017ee sme poriadne nezazreli ani jedno. Nave\u010der, po 200 km m\u00f4jho \u0161of\u00e9rovania, prich\u00e1dzame do podhorsk\u00e9ho meste\u010dka San Martin de los Andes.<\/p>\n

To sme u\u017e ale v\u0161etci poriadne na\u0161tvan\u00ed: ke\u010f n\u00e1m po\u010dasie kaz\u00ed de\u0148, my sami si vyrob\u00edme ve\u010der! Najprv zohna\u0165 ubytovanie; luxusn\u00fd dvojposchodov\u00fd apartm\u00e1n za cenu hostelovej izby by bol akur\u00e1t. N\u00e1jdeme ho na konci mesta, turistov je m\u00e1lo a tak majite\u013e len hod\u00ed rukou. Obsluha n\u00e1m zap\u00e1li v kozube ohe\u0148 a dostaneme zadarmo pouk\u00e1\u017eky na ochutn\u00e1vku jed\u00e1l v miestnej re\u0161taur\u00e1cii. Druh\u00fd bod: jedlo. Nenech\u00e1vame ni\u010d na n\u00e1hodu a urob\u00edme si ho sami. Svoju skromn\u00fa \u00fa\u010das\u0165 nem\u00f4\u017eem poprie\u0165. Upe\u010dieme si ry\u017eu a zemiaky, grilujem bakla\u017e\u00e1n. Diev\u010dat\u00e1 kr\u00e1jaj\u00fa obrovsk\u00fd zelen\u00fd \u0161al\u00e1t, e\u0161te dor\u00e1bam \u0161pen\u00e1tov\u00fa om\u00e1\u010dku a m\u00f4\u017eeme otvori\u0165 prv\u00fa f\u013ea\u0161u v\u00edna.<\/p>\n

Argent\u00edna, miesto stretnut\u00ed<\/h2>\n

\"Na\u0161a<\/a>V San Martin, po upr\u0161anom, znudenom dni, za\u017e\u00edvame mo\u017eno najkraj\u0161\u00ed ve\u010der od za\u010diatku na\u0161ej cesty. Ako v\u017edy, t\u00fdm najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edm pokladom cestovania s\u00fa \u013eudia, ktor\u00fdch stret\u00e1vame. C\u00edtime sa spolu pr\u00edjemne, pozorujeme d\u00e1\u017e\u010f za oknom a t\u00falav\u00e1 ma\u010dka, ktor\u00fa sme vpustili dnu, pomaly zasp\u00e1va Justyne na kolen\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 skoro r\u00e1no odv\u00e1\u017eam Sybillu a Claudiu na autobus, odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa na \u010d\u00edlsku stranu h\u00f4r. Pevne ver\u00edm, \u017ee sa e\u0161te stretneme. Ak nie Ju\u017en\u00e1 Amerika, mo\u017eno Eur\u00f3pa: b\u00fdvaj\u00fa v Z\u0171richu, rovnako, ako moja sestra Ma\u0165a. V krvi m\u00e1m istotne presne to\u013eko isto promile, ko\u013eko som mal pred dvomi hodinami, ke\u010f som i\u0161iel spa\u0165, a tak sa rad\u0161ej r\u00fdchlo vraciam do postele.<\/p>\n

R\u00e1no sa vy\u010dasilo; pred odchodom e\u0161te nav\u0161t\u00edvime re\u0161taur\u00e1ciu, do ktorej sme dostali od n\u00e1\u0161ho hotela pouk\u00e1\u017eky na jedlo. Po zjeden\u00ed tretieho taniera, celkom naspodku, n\u00e1jdeme \u00faboh\u00e9ho \u0161v\u00e1ba, zape\u010den\u00e9ho v chlebe. Keby som chcel by\u0165 ironick\u00fd, povedal by som, \u017ee \u0161\u0165astie n\u00e1s neopustilo ani dnes, preto\u017ee zhrozen\u00fd person\u00e1l n\u00e1m za to odpust\u00ed i v\u0161etky n\u00e1poje a vych\u00e1dzame bez zaplatenia jedin\u00e9ho haliera. Justyna a Peter sa v\u0161ak pritom tv\u00e1rili tak znechutene, \u017ee o ir\u00f3nii nem\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 ani re\u010di. Fakt neviem, \u010do maj\u00fa niektor\u00ed \u013eudia st\u00e1le proti t\u00fdm nevinn\u00fdm, priate\u013esk\u00fdm tvorom.<\/p>\n

Jazern\u00e1 oblas\u0165, Patag\u00f3nia, Argent\u00edna<\/h2>\n

\"Cestovanie<\/a>Vraciame sa zasne\u017eenou krajinou do Bariloche. Aj t\u00e1 mal\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 cesty, ktor\u00e1 je vyasfaltovan\u00e1, je nedotknut\u00e1 odh\u0155\u0148a\u010dmi snehu. V istom momente nach\u00e1dzame v ostrej z\u00e1krute havarovan\u00fd kami\u00f3n. Cesta je tu pokryt\u00e1 dokonal\u00fdm \u013eadom: som si takmer ist\u00fd, \u017ee keby som pri poh\u013eade na prevr\u00e1ten\u00fa vle\u010dku nespomalil na takmer krokov\u00fa r\u00fdchlos\u0165, zastavila by n\u00e1s a\u017e skala o p\u00e1r krokov \u010falej. \u00c1ut tu jazd\u00ed m\u00e1lo, ale aj tak, m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee v zime sa tu cesty neudr\u017euj\u00fa jednoducho v\u00f4bec.<\/p>\n

Prech\u00e1dzame \u010fal\u0161\u00edmi jazerami, okolo n\u00e1s s\u00fa \u0161t\u00edty a hrub\u00e1 vrstva vrstva snehu sa neust\u00e1le strieda s takmer jesennou atmosf\u00e9rou, v z\u00e1vislosti od nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky. Nasp\u00e4\u0165, v Bariloche, sa u\u017e pomaly pripravujeme na odchod. E\u0161te predt\u00fdm v\u0161ak stihnem zisti\u0165, \u017ee na mojich tenisk\u00e1ch s drah\u00fdmi technol\u00f3giami a sl\u00e1vnou reput\u00e1ciou praskla podr\u00e1\u017eka takmer po celej d\u013a\u017eke.<\/p>\n

Skoro ako doma<\/h2>\n

\"Okolie<\/a>Nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9, ak sa v\u00e1m to stane v Patag\u00f3nii a top\u00e1nky ste k\u00fapili na Slovensku, v\u0161ak? Ja ale nestr\u00e1cam n\u00e1dej; ich cena je dos\u0165 vysok\u00e1 na to, aby ste mohli o\u010dak\u00e1va\u0165 slu\u0161n\u00fd pr\u00edstup a snahu obchodn\u00edka probl\u00e9m vyrie\u0161i\u0165. Je celkom be\u017en\u00e9 kdeko\u013evek na svete, \u017ee predajca v\u00e1m poskytne ak\u00fa-tak\u00fa n\u00e1hradu aj na dia\u013eku, preto\u017ee ak sa pokaz\u00ed \u010dosi, za \u010doho spo\u013eahlivos\u0165 ru\u010d\u00ed dobr\u00fd v\u00fdrobca a v neposlednom rade i cena, je to ch\u00e1pan\u00e9 ako hanba, ako omyl, ktor\u00fd treba \u010do najsk\u00f4r napravi\u0165.<\/p>\n

Nap\u00ed\u0161em teda list firme Trekland na Vajanskom n\u00e1bre\u017e\u00ed, v ktorej som pred odchodom nechal zop\u00e1r desiatok tis\u00edc kor\u00fan za v\u00fdbavu, vysvet\u013eujem situ\u00e1ciu. Fotografie zlomenej podo\u0161vy v pr\u00edlohe. Odpove\u010f dostanem obratom: bohu\u017eia\u013e, nem\u00f4\u017eu mi pom\u00f4c\u0165. Top\u00e1nky si m\u00f4\u017eem da\u0165 opravi\u0165 s\u00e1m, ale strat\u00edm z\u00e1ruku. M\u00f4\u017eem ich takisto posla\u0165 na Slovensko, samozrejme na vlastn\u00e9 n\u00e1klady, ale neru\u010dia mi za to, \u017ee reklam\u00e1ciu bud\u00fa akceptova\u0165. Pre\u010do? Je pravdepodobn\u00e9, \u017ee z\u00e1vada vznikla mojim zavinen\u00edm: nosen\u00edm \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9ho ruksaku, mespr\u00e1vnym pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00edm at\u010f. at\u010f.<\/p>\n

\"Pr\u00edroda<\/a>Never\u00edm vlastn\u00fdm o\u010diam: takto mi odpovie obchod, ktor\u00fd pred\u00e1va profesion\u00e1lnu outdoorov\u00fa v\u00fdstroj a ktor\u00fd \u017eije z reput\u00e1cie t\u00fdch najlep\u0161\u00edch a najspo\u013eahlivej\u0161\u00edch zna\u010diek? Samozrejme, mus\u00edm by\u0165 na vine ja: v\u00fdrobcovia turistick\u00fdch top\u00e1nok istotne nemohli r\u00e1ta\u0165 s t\u00fdm, \u017ee niekto bude ich obuv nosi\u0165 s ruksakom! Odpoved\u00e1m obchodu podobn\u00fdm t\u00f3nom, dost\u00e1vam e\u0161te bezo\u010divej\u0161\u00ed list.Nu\u017e \u010do. Ned\u00e1 sa ni\u010d robi\u0165. Sk\u00fasim sa obr\u00e1ti\u0165 priamo na v\u00fdrobcu, firmu Garmont, a uvid\u00edme. A\u017e teraz som si spomenul na podobn\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky nieko\u013ek\u00fdch mojich zn\u00e1mych, ktor\u00ed si v Treklande za nemal\u00e9 sumy nak\u00fapili tovar a pri pokuse o reklam\u00e1ciu skon\u010dili presne tak, ako ja: z\u00e1vada zavinen\u00e1 nespr\u00e1vnym pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00edm.<\/p>\n

Patag\u00f3nia, posledn\u00e9 zbohom<\/h2>\n

\"Cestovanie<\/a>10. j\u00fana 2007 napokon op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame San Carlos de Bariloche a s n\u00edm i cel\u00fa Patag\u00f3niu. Za posledn\u00e9 takmer dva mesiace sme ju obi\u0161li takmer cel\u00fa: precestovali sme tu okolo desa\u0165tis\u00edc kilometrov autobusmi, pe\u0161o i lo\u010fou. Patag\u00f3nia, to je posledn\u00e9 slovo pri snoch o hor\u00e1ch, \u013eadovcoch, pustatine bez \u013eud\u00ed. Patag\u00f3nia je v\u0161ak z\u00e1rove\u0148 hlboko postihnut\u00e1 turistikou, ekonomick\u00fdmi z\u00e1ujmami mocn\u00fdch a glob\u00e1lnym otep\u013eovan\u00edm. V bud\u00facnosti sa v\u0161etko toto e\u0161te istotne zhor\u0161\u00ed: ak m\u00f4\u017eete, stihnite ju \u010do najsk\u00f4r. Nikdy na \u0148u nezabudnete.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Severn\u00e1 Patag\u00f3nia<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

N\u00e1vrat do Argent\u00edny Po plavbe cez Pacifik a \u010d\u00edlsku Patag\u00f3niu n\u00e1s po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148och op\u00e4\u0165 v\u00edta Argent\u00edna. Severopatag\u00f3nske mesto Bariloche je pre Argent\u00edn\u010danov jedn\u00fdm z najob\u013e\u00fabenej\u0161\u00edch miest na dovolenku. Pr\u00eds\u0165 sem na nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed spolu s celou triedou po skon\u010den\u00ed strednej \u0161koly je absol\u00fatnou nevyhnutnos\u0165ou. Ja som sem svojich spolu\u017eiakov zo strednej \u0161koly nepriviedol, ale…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1540,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[176,409,402,401,171],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/501"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=501"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/501\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8136,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/501\/revisions\/8136"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1540"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=501"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=501"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=501"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}