{"id":4826,"date":"2015-05-12T12:28:18","date_gmt":"2015-05-12T10:28:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=4826"},"modified":"2019-01-19T21:00:31","modified_gmt":"2019-01-19T19:00:31","slug":"fotoreportaz-belize-gangstri-geto-koralove-ostrovy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/fotoreportaz-belize-gangstri-geto-koralove-ostrovy","title":{"rendered":"Fotoreport\u00e1\u017e z Belize: od gangstersk\u00fdch slumov po koralov\u00e9 ostrovy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hranica medzi Guatemalou a Belize je presne tak\u00e1, ak\u00fa n\u00e1jdete v\u0161ade v Strednej Amerike: smrad, \u0161pina, neust\u00e1ly zhon a po zuby ozbrojen\u00ed vojaci, ktor\u00ed vidia v\u0161etko, len nie pa\u0161er\u00e1kov a zlodejov v\u0161ade okolo n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n

\"Cestou

Typick\u00e1 stredoamerick\u00e1 hranica pln\u00e1 \u0161piny, veksl\u00e1kov a drobn\u00fdch zlodejov<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

Skupinka Ami\u0161ov sa bojazlivo dr\u017e\u00ed pri sebe a nesp\u00fa\u0161\u0165aj\u00fa zrak zo svojich \u017eien. Ich kroje a spr\u00e1vanie ich odli\u0161uje od atmosf\u00e9ry Strednej Ameriky e\u0161te viac, ako biela farba poko\u017eky a pehy. Je to sekta \u017eij\u00faca tradi\u010dn\u00fdm ro\u013en\u00edckym \u017eivotom 19. storo\u010dia, odmietaj\u00fa v\u00fddobytky civiliz\u00e1cie a dr\u017eia sa z \u010faleka od miestnych \u013eud\u00ed aj turistov.<\/p>\n

Po ceste naprie\u010d Belize ich uvid\u00edm nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t, ako na osamelej zast\u00e1vke kdesi v savane nakladaj\u00fa veci do autobusu, kohosi v\u00edtaj\u00fa alebo sa sn\u00edm l\u00fa\u010dia. Ako vidie\u0165, sami pochopili, \u017ee stokilometrov\u00e9 vzdialenosti sa viac oplat\u00ed prejs\u0165 v autobuse ako vozom, hoci pou\u017e\u00edvanie modern\u00fdch n\u00e1storjov pova\u017euj\u00fa za hriech.<\/p>\n

\"Belizsk\u00ed

Belizsk\u00ed Ami\u0161ovia na v\u00fdlete do Guatemaly<\/p><\/div>\n

Hlavn\u00e9 mesto Belize Belmopan pripom\u00edna slovensk\u00fa dedinu; v celom Belize \u017eije spolu len 300 tis\u00edc \u013eud\u00ed. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z nich ob\u00fdva dediny roztr\u00fasen\u00e9 na pobre\u017e\u00ed alebo Belize City, do ktor\u00e9ho smerujem ja.<\/p>\n

Nieko\u013eko \u010fal\u0161\u00edch hod\u00edn autobusom po rozbitej ceste, palmov\u00e9 lesy a roztr\u00fasen\u00e9 dedinky. Pristupuj\u00fa hisp\u00e1nski dedin\u010dania, ml\u010danliv\u00ed maysk\u00ed domorodci a hlu\u010dn\u00ed \u010dernosi. V Belize sa hovor\u00ed zmeskou angli\u010dtiny a \u0161paniel\u010diny, z ktorej by zo\u0161alel ka\u017ed\u00fd lingvista.<\/p>\n

V krajine je navy\u0161e obrovsk\u00e1 komunita z ju\u017enej \u00c1zie a bl\u00edzkeho v\u00fdchodu \u2013 Libanon\u010dania ovl\u00e1dli drobn\u00e9 obchod\u00edky a re\u0161taur\u00e1cie. Dod\u00e1va to tejto zvl\u00e1\u0161tnej krajine e\u0161te viac farieb, ale aj zm\u00e4tku a etnick\u00fdch probl\u00e9mov. Ich integr\u00e1cia takmer nefunguje a otvoren\u00e1 politika vl\u00e1dy vo\u010di pris\u0165ahovalcom ostro kontrastuje s jej neschopnos\u0165ou rie\u0161i\u0165 etnick\u00e9 get\u00e1 a konflikty s rasov\u00fdm pozad\u00edm.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Tv\u00e1re\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Napokon, tesne po zotmen\u00ed, vystupujem v Belize City. Mesto vyzer\u00e1 ako jeden ve\u013ek\u00fd slum; beriem tax\u00edk a prich\u00e1dzam do svojho mal\u00e9ho hotela, ktor\u00fd je obohnan\u00fd \u017eiletkov\u00fdm dr\u00f4tom. Hne\u010f po prvej vych\u00e1dzke po ulici pochop\u00edm, \u017ee majitelia ve\u013emi dobre vedeli, \u010do robia.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Belizsk\u00e1\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Belize City je nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 miesto na \u017eivot. Je to nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 miesto aj na prech\u00e1dzanie, kupovanie vody a h\u013eadanie re\u0161taur\u00e1cie. Okam\u017eite ako vyjdem zo zamre\u017eovan\u00e9ho hotela na no\u010dn\u00fa ulicu, svoje rozhodnutie o\u013eutujem. O p\u00e1r metrov \u010falej ma napadne svokra divok\u00fdch psov, ktor\u00e9 odo\u017eenie len sp\u0155\u0161ka kame\u0148ov a leskn\u00faca sa \u010depe\u013e m\u00f4jho no\u017ea. E\u0161te jedna chyba a zabl\u00fadim do bo\u010dnej uli\u010dky, v ktorej sa za mnou rozbehne nieko\u013eko \u010derno\u0161sk\u00fdch v\u00fdrastkov: “Get the fuck out of our neighborhood, white motherfucker!” (Zmizni z na\u0161ej \u0161tvrte, biely skurvysyn!)<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"V\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Majite\u013e penzi\u00f3nu i s rodinou poch\u00e1dza z Banglad\u00e9\u0161u \u2013 typick\u00fd pr\u00edbeh ute\u010dencov, ktor\u00ed vo svojej vlasti v\u0161etko predali a vydali sa h\u013eada\u0165 lep\u0161\u00ed \u017eivot. Po ich prvom prekvapen\u00ed, \u017ee som nav\u0161t\u00edvil ich krajinu a dokonca sa mi p\u00e1\u010dila, za\u010dn\u00fa rozpr\u00e1va\u0165 o svojom \u017eivote tu. Mu\u017e v stredn\u00fdch rokoch napokon s povzdychom prizn\u00e1va, \u017ee Belize sa uk\u00e1zalo by\u0165 no\u010dnou morou.<\/p>\n

\u0160ikanovanie a diskrimin\u00e1ciu za svoj beng\u00e1lsky p\u00f4vod tu za\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa ka\u017ed\u00fd de\u0148; u\u017e nieko\u013eko rokov vych\u00e1dzaj\u00fa von len v zamknutom aute, preto\u017ee vojny gangov a pr\u00edle\u017eitostn\u00e1 kriminalita tu dosiahla apogeum. Belize City je tret\u00edm najhor\u0161\u00edm miestom v Strednej Amerike v po\u010dte vr\u00e1\u017ed na sto tis\u00edc obyvate\u013eov.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Belize

Belize City je jeden ve\u013ek\u00fd smutn\u00fd slum<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Na

Na sten\u00e1ch budov si nech\u00e1vaj\u00fa gangy odkazy v podobe grafiti. N\u00e1pisy na obr\u00e1zku s\u00fa poctou zavra\u017eden\u00fdm \u010dlenom gangu<\/p><\/div>\n

\"V

V tejto budove s\u00eddli schr\u00e1nkov\u00e1 firma, ktor\u00e1 preliala zo slovenskej Interblue p\u00e4\u0165 mili\u00f3nov eur<\/p><\/div>\n

Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 odch\u00e1dzam na ostrovy. Od momentu, ako vojdem do turistick\u00e9ho pr\u00edstavu, akoby som sa ocitol v inom svete. Turistick\u00e9 z\u00e1jazdy tu vykladaj\u00fa le\u017e\u00e9rne rodiny dovolenk\u00e1rov; nikto ani netu\u0161\u00ed, \u017ee len jeden jeden blok odtia\u013eto pr\u00e1ve niekoho zavra\u017edili a policajti so samopalmi hliadkuj\u00fa p\u00e1sky s n\u00e1pisom Crime Scene. Tak\u00e9to je to jednoduch\u00e9: sta\u010d\u00ed si k\u00fapi\u0165 l\u00edstok za nejak\u00fdch 20 dol\u00e1rov a z\u00edskate priepustku do tej druhej, exotickej \u010dasti Belize.<\/p>\n

Na ostrovoch niet gangstersk\u00fdch grafiti s menami zavra\u017eden\u00fdch mafi\u00e1nov, pova\u013ea\u010dov ani \u0161pina \u010di bieda. Alebo \u00e1no?<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Ostrovn\u00e9\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"\u017divot\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Na ostrovoch str\u00e1vim nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed. Az\u00farov\u00e9 more, reggae hudba a pohodov\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra v ni\u010dom nepripom\u00edna Belize, ak\u00e9 pozn\u00e1m z pevniny. Na bielom piesku hlavnej ulice prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa Ameri\u010dania a Eur\u00f3pania s f\u013ea\u0161kami piva a surfov\u00fdmi doskami a priate\u013esk\u00e1 administrat\u00edva ostrova dokonca zak\u00e1zala aut\u00e1 so spa\u013eovac\u00edmi motormi kv\u00f4li \u010distej\u0161iemu vzduchu.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"V\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Holi\u010d je priate\u013esk\u00fd chlap\u00edk s obrovsk\u00fdm s\u00e1\u010dkom marihuany, z ktorej si bezstarostne u\u0161tipk\u00e1va a uba\u013euje d\u017eointy pre seba i svojho str\u00fdka. Tak ako v\u0161etci v Belize, miluje Boba Marleya a sk\u00f4r ako sa d\u00e1 do pr\u00e1ce, mus\u00edme si spolu pozrie\u0165 dokument\u00e1rny film o \u017eivote reggae hviezdy.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Belizsk\u00fd\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Ke\u010f sa napokon ku mne bl\u00ed\u017ei s holou \u017eiletkou, mimovo\u013ene sa strhnem, ale ohol\u00ed ma rutinn\u00fdm pohybom bez jedin\u00e9ho \u0161krabnutia.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"U\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Naozaj s\u00fa belizsk\u00e9 ostrovy tak\u00fdm bezstarostn\u00fdm rajom, ako sa to zd\u00e1 na prv\u00fd poh\u013ead? Miestni prizn\u00e1vaj\u00fa, \u017ee veci sa j tu r\u00fdchlo menia k hor\u0161iemu. Najviac zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho c\u00edti\u0165 n\u00e1rast po\u010dtu vr\u00e1\u017ed spojen\u00fdch s drogov\u00fdmi kartelmi, ktor\u00e9 sem prenikaj\u00fa z ne\u010falek\u00e9ho Mexika. Kedysi mali na ostrovoch sotva p\u00e1r vr\u00e1\u017ed ro\u010dne sp\u00f4soben\u00fdch v afekte. Dnes, na za\u010diatku roka 2015, policajti rie\u0161ia u\u017e \u0161tvrt\u00fa \u2013 v\u0161etky maj\u00fa pozadie obchodu s drogami.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"N\u00e1siln\u00e1\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Tv\u00e1re\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Postup b\u00fdva spravidla podobn\u00fd. Mexick\u00e9 kartely v okol\u00ed ostrovov zhadzuj\u00fa z lod\u00ed bal\u00edky s koka\u00ednom a marihuanou, ktor\u00e9 potom na brehu zberaj\u00fa na to ur\u010den\u00e9 osoby a pos\u00favaj\u00fa ich na \u010fal\u0161\u00ed transport. Ak ich v\u0161ak n\u00e1hodou n\u00e1jde sk\u00f4r nejak\u00fd miestny, spravidla pod\u013eahne snom o r\u00fdchlom bohatstve a pok\u00fasi sa ich preda\u0165 na vlastn\u00fa p\u00e4s\u0165. O p\u00e1r t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov ho n\u00e1jdu na pl\u00e1\u017ei v plytkom hrobe.<\/p>\n

V de\u0148 m\u00f4jho pr\u00edchodu na\u0161la ostrovn\u00e1 pol\u00edcia v \u010derno\u0161skej \u010dasti ostrova rozstrie\u013ean\u00fa dreven\u00fa chatr\u010d. Obchodn\u00edci s drogami sa pri\u0161li pomsti\u0165 svojmu b\u00fdval\u00e9mu pracovn\u00edkovi a dom mu rozstrie\u013eali ako re\u0161eto. Nebol doma; v dome zahynul jeho nieko\u013ekoro\u010dn\u00fd syn.<\/p>\n

\"Svoje

Svoje slumy maj\u00fa aj turistick\u00e9 koralov\u00e9 ostrovy. Sta\u010d\u00ed prejs\u0165 \u010falej od hlavnej cesty s hotelmi a re\u0161taur\u00e1ciami. Caye Caulker, Belize<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Na

Na koralovom ostrove Caye Ambergris v Belize<\/p><\/div>\n

A potom s\u00fa tu e\u0161te \u013eudia, ktor\u00ed do Belize u\u0161li z civilizovan\u00e9ho sveta pred spravodlivos\u0165ou.<\/p>\n

Ako Karol Mello. Stret\u00e1vam ho na jednom z ostrovov. Bl\u00ed\u017ei sa oproti mne vo svojom vozidle. Ke\u010f prech\u00e1dza okolo, zdvihnem ruku a zakri\u010d\u00edm, Dobr\u00fd de\u0148, p\u00e1n Mello. M\u00f4\u017eeme sa porozpr\u00e1va\u0165? Mello okam\u017eite zabrzd\u00ed a pozrieme si do o\u010d\u00ed. Ale to je u\u017e \u00faplne in\u00fd pr\u00edbeh\u2026<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Ospal\u00e9\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Belizsk\u00fd\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Karibsk\u00e9\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n \n\t\t
\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Z\u00e1pad\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pevninsk\u00e9 Belize: slumy a chudoba, dedinky roztr\u00fasen\u00e9 pri pobre\u017e\u00ed a palmov\u00e9 h\u00e1jiky. Ostrovn\u00e9 Belize: koralov\u00e9 atoly s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdm az\u00farov\u00fdm pobre\u017e\u00edm a z\u00e1padn\u00fdmi turistami. Dva oddelen\u00e9 svety, ktor\u00e9 akoby ani neboli jednou krajinou.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4832,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"image","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[395],"tags":[397,124,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4826"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4826"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4826\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8050,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4826\/revisions\/8050"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4832"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4826"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4826"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4826"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}