{"id":4028,"date":"2014-10-12T01:06:28","date_gmt":"2014-10-11T23:06:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=4028"},"modified":"2019-01-19T21:09:15","modified_gmt":"2019-01-19T19:09:15","slug":"putovanie-za-vulkanmi-porsmork-landmannalaugar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/putovanie-za-vulkanmi-porsmork-landmannalaugar","title":{"rendered":"Za hlasom vulk\u00e1nov"},"content":{"rendered":"

Trojd\u0148ov\u00e9 putovanie cez krajinu akt\u00edvnych vulk\u00e1nov, sope\u010dn\u00fdch p\u00fa\u0161t\u00ed a nekone\u010dn\u00fdch \u013eadovcov. Vitajte v islandskom vn\u00fatrozem\u00ed, na treku z Landmannalaugar do Porsmork .<\/strong><\/p>\n

Ke\u010f r\u00e1no prich\u00e1dza autobus, hne\u010f je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee to nebude len tak. Tento kr\u00ed\u017eenec d\u017e\u00edpu a obrnen\u00e9ho transport\u00e9ra m\u00e1 podvozok tak vysoko, \u017ee vy\u0161tvera\u0165 sa hore bude prv\u00fd v\u00fdstup tohto d\u0148a. Pri balen\u00ed bato\u017einy si e\u0161te stihneme v\u0161imn\u00fa\u0165 dva ruksaky od nemenovanej slovenskej zna\u010dky, ktor\u00e9 neklamne zradia na\u0161incov v ka\u017edom k\u00fate sveta: Slov\u00e1ci Ani\u010dka a Mi\u0161o pracuj\u00fa na Islande ako dobrovo\u013en\u00edci u\u017e nieko\u013eko t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov a od dnes bud\u00fa najbli\u017e\u0161ie dni na\u0161imi spolo\u010dn\u00edkmi v pote i chlade.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Z\u00e1kladn\u00fd\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Landmannalaugar: Na za\u010diatku bolo ticho<\/h2>\n

Potom pri\u0161iel vietor. A d\u00e1\u017e\u010f.
\nZo z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora v Landmannalaugar vyr\u00e1\u017eame pod priate\u013esk\u00fdmi oblakmi, spoza ktor\u00fdch na n\u00e1s ob\u010das \u017emurk\u00e1 islandsk\u00e9 slnko. Z holej planiny v\u0161etci \u0161tyria pomaly st\u00fapame cez vulkanick\u00e9 form\u00e1cie, zdrav\u00edme turistov a pln\u00ed energie fot\u00edme na v\u0161etky strany. Pestrofarebn\u00e9 svahy pripom\u00ednaj\u00fa surrealistick\u00fd svet ak\u00e9hosi sci-fi umelca; kde-tu vyr\u00e1\u017eaj\u00fa zo zeme k\u00fadole pary a s\u00edrnat\u00e9 kalu\u017ee hor\u00facej vody.<\/p>\n

Napokon prich\u00e1dzame na n\u00e1horn\u00fa plo\u0161inu, ktor\u00e1 n\u00e1m pon\u00fakne \u00fa\u017easn\u00fd v\u00fdh\u013ead do dia\u013eav a posledn\u00fd l\u00fa\u010d svetla toho d\u0148a. Hne\u010f nato prich\u00e1dza \u0165a\u017eiv\u00fd obla\u010dn\u00fd front. Okam\u017eite n\u00e1s obal\u00ed hust\u00e1, nepreniknute\u013en\u00e1 hmla, d\u00e1\u017e\u010f sa zmen\u00ed na lejak a ten na snehov\u00fa b\u00farku. Zap\u00edname membr\u00e1ny a pr\u0161ipl\u00e1\u0161te, kontrolujeme n\u00e1vleky a vyr\u00e1\u017eame do mrazivej, bielej ni\u010doty.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Raz\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Pre\u0161li dve hodiny. Zmizli farebn\u00e9 kopce i tr\u00e1vnat\u00e9 n\u00ed\u017einy; jedin\u00e9, \u010do vidie\u0165, je meter povrchu pred na\u0161imi nohami. Viem, \u017ee neust\u00e1le st\u00fapame hore. Svet sa sklad\u00e1 z n\u00e1\u0161ho dychu, \u0165a\u017eoby na ramen\u00e1ch a klzk\u00e9ho povrchu. Na ceste m\u00ed\u0148ame podobn\u00e9 m\u00e1tohy ako my a smer n\u00e1m pom\u00e1haj\u00fa dr\u017ea\u0165 len ob\u010dasn\u00e9 kol\u00edky a azimut m\u00f4jho kompasu. Prech\u00e1dzame potokmi a \u013eadovcov\u00fdmi jazykmi a \u010dlenit\u00fd, \u0161trkovit\u00fd ter\u00e9n sa men\u00ed na \u013eadov\u00e9 polia. Moje pochm\u00farne \u00favahy o tejto letnej t\u00fare na konci augusta preru\u0161\u00ed krupobitie, ktor\u00e9 v okamihu pokryje cel\u00fa krajinu ve\u013ek\u00fdmi \u013eadov\u00fdmi orechmi.<\/p>\n

\u0160liapeme \u010fal\u0161iu hodinu. M\u00ed\u0148ame \u010doraz viac \u013eud\u00ed, tak\u017ee najbli\u017e\u0161ia horsk\u00e1 chata mus\u00ed by\u0165 bl\u00edzko, kv\u00f4li nulovej vidite\u013enosti sme v\u0161ak zatia\u013e radi, \u017ee sme nestratili spr\u00e1vny kurz. Vtedy sa pred nami vynor\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tna kamenn\u00e1 mohyla. Je to pamiatka po izraelskom turistovi, ktor\u00fd tu takto pred rokom stratil cestu vo ve\u013emi podobn\u00fdch podmienkach. Na\u0161li ho a\u017e o p\u00e1r dn\u00ed; zomrel na podchladenie.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Islandsk\u00e9\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Napokon sa dost\u00e1vame k chate. Posledn\u00fdch p\u00e1r hod\u00edn, ako n\u00e1m vlhko a chlad postupne presakovali cez jednotliv\u00e9 vrstvy, sme t\u00fa\u017eili u\u017e len dosta\u0165 sa sem, zhodi\u0165 ruksaky a na zbytok d\u0148a sa kdesi ukry\u0165 do spac\u00e1kov. Teraz si u\u017e nie sme tak\u00ed ist\u00ed. Chata je absol\u00fatne pln\u00e1 z\u00fabo\u017een\u00fdch a premo\u010den\u00fdch turistov, ktor\u00ed drkoc\u00fa zubami v jedinej miestnosti, kam sm\u00fa pr\u00eds\u0165 t\u00ed, ktor\u00ed nemaj\u00fa rezerv\u00e1ciu na izbu (treba ju vykona\u0165 neraz nieko\u013eko t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov vopred): v predsieni. S prekvapen\u00edm zis\u0165ujem, \u017ee tu na Islande je \u010dosi ako s\u00facit chat\u00e1rov s ostatn\u00fdmi turistami sk\u00f4r v\u00fdnimkou. V preplnenej izbietke sa na polhodinku zohrejeme telami ostatn\u00fdch \u00fabo\u017eiakov, zjeme energetick\u00e9 ty\u010dinky a napokon takmer neveriacky vyr\u00e1\u017eame do ne\u013eudsk\u00e9ho po\u010dasia, cez \u010fal\u0161ie \u013eadovce, str\u017ee a kotliny.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Vulkanick\u00e1\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Prv\u00e1 noc<\/h2>\n

Pre\u0161lo \u010fal\u0161\u00edch p\u00e1r hod\u00edn; prich\u00e1dzame k rieke, ktor\u00e1 m\u00e1 by\u0165 pod\u013ea mapy poslednou prek\u00e1\u017ekou pred na\u0161\u00edm dne\u0161n\u00fdm t\u00e1borom. Ani\u010dka a Mi\u0161o s\u00fa kdesi \u010faleko pred nami.
\nRieka nem\u00e1 brod. Stret\u00e1vame tu p\u00e1rik izraelsk\u00fdch turistov, ktor\u00ed panicky sk\u00fa\u0161aj\u00fa prejs\u0165 na t\u00fdch najhor\u0161\u00edch \u00fasekoch. Rieku prebrod\u00edm ako prv\u00fd; nasleduje Justyna a potom izraelsk\u00e9 diev\u010da, ktor\u00fa bojazlivo nasleduje jej priate\u013e. Diev\u010da sa e\u0161te vr\u00e1ti a prenesie svoju a jeho bato\u017einu.<\/p>\n

Horsk\u00e1 chata stoj\u00ed na brehu \u013eadovcov\u00e9ho jazera \u2013 bol by to absol\u00fatne fantastick\u00fd poh\u013ead, keby sme neboli premo\u010den\u00ed a podchladen\u00ed a\u017e na kos\u0165. O span\u00ed v chate nemo\u017eno ani sn\u00edva\u0165 \u2013 nem\u00e1me rezerv\u00e1ciu a op\u00e4\u0165 jedin\u00e9, kam smieme v\u00f4bec vst\u00fapi\u0165, je vstupn\u00e1 miestnos\u0165 na su\u0161enie top\u00e1nok host\u00ed. Raz sa na chv\u00ed\u013eu otvoria dvere dovn\u00fatra a dve uzimen\u00e9 bytosti uvidia vyhriatu sie\u0148 s praskaj\u00facim kozubom, okolo ktor\u00e9ho sed\u00ed desiatka \u0161\u0165astlivcov s poh\u00e1rmi whisky, ktor\u00ed si rezervovali izbu zrejme p\u00e1r t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov predt\u00fdm, ako si v\u00f4bec k\u00fapili letenky na Island. Op\u00e4\u0165 ma premkne t\u00fa\u017eba za slovensko-po\u013esk\u00fdmi priate\u013esk\u00fdmi chatami v Tatr\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 nech\u00e1vaj\u00fa sp\u00e1va\u0165 turistov e\u0161te aj na podlahe v jed\u00e1lni, a s\u0165a\u017eka sa vyd\u00e1vam postavi\u0165 stan do snehovej b\u00farky. S premrznut\u00fdmi rukami napokon vyhr\u00e1vam i posledn\u00fd boj toho d\u0148a, stanov\u00e9 dielce zabezpe\u010d\u00edme pred vetrom kame\u0148mi a napokon podchladen\u00ed zapad\u00e1me do vlhk\u00fdch spac\u00e1kov.<\/p>\n

\"Ju\u017en\u00fd<\/a>

Ju\u017en\u00fd Island, Landmannalaugar <\/p><\/p><\/div>\n

Druh\u00fd de\u0148 putovania. \u010eal\u0161ie hodiny v da\u017e\u010fov\u00fdch a snehov\u00fdch b\u00farkach, vz\u00e1cne sekundy slne\u010dn\u00fdch l\u00fa\u010dov a vulkanick\u00e9 p\u00fa\u0161te, v ktor\u00fdch s\u00fa jedinou fatamorg\u00e1nou r\u00fdchlo sa bl\u00ed\u017eiace vlny snehu a da\u017e\u010fa. Aha, a rieky. Dnes ich treba prebrodi\u0165 nieko\u013eko. Tu u\u017e nepom\u00f4\u017ee \u017eiadne sk\u00e1kanie po skal\u00e1ch ani dobr\u00fd gore tex: brody maj\u00fa h\u013abku aj do metra a bur\u00e1caj\u00faca, \u013eadov\u00e1 riava v\u00e1s dok\u00e1\u017ee privies\u0165 na dos\u0165 nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9 my\u0161lienky.<\/p>\n

Op\u00e4\u0165 stret\u00e1vame izraelsk\u00fd p\u00e1rik; op\u00e4\u0165 pred riekou, na ktor\u00fa len bezradne h\u013eadia. Pokusn\u00fd kr\u00e1lik som op\u00e4\u0165 ja \u2013 prebrod\u00edm ju s na\u0161imi ruksakmi, potom sa vr\u00e1tim, prehod\u00edm si na plecia Justynu a o chv\u00ed\u013eu sme \u0161\u0165astne na druhom brehu. Potom id\u00fa oni, teda vlastne diev\u010da. Prenesie bato\u017einu svoju aj kamar\u00e1ta, ten sa v\u0161ak s chladnou vodou ve\u013emi nemus\u00ed. Vyzer\u00e1 tak, \u017ee prenies\u0165 na druh\u00fd breh by ho mala jeho o tridsa\u0165 k\u00edl \u013eah\u0161ia priate\u013eka, napokon sa v\u0161ak u\u013e\u00fatost\u00edm a po\u017ei\u010diam im svoje sand\u00e1le, ktor\u00e9 mu diev\u010da prinesie na druh\u00fd breh a napokon privedie svojho hrdinu za ruku a\u017e k n\u00e1m.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Ka\u017ed\u00fd\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Z\u00e1ti\u0161ie<\/h2>\n

Posledn\u00e1 vulkanick\u00e1 p\u00fa\u0161\u0165; posledn\u00fd kopec a napokon je tu na\u0161a posledn\u00e1 noc tohto \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9ho putovania. T\u00e1bor je u\u010dupen\u00fd na \u00fap\u00e4t\u00ed kopca, ktor\u00e9ho dolinka vytvorila pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 z\u00e1ti\u0161ie s veget\u00e1ciou \u2013 \u010dosi, \u010do sme posledn\u00e9 dva dni neza\u017eili takmer v\u00f4bec. Dobre si zapam\u00e4taj t\u00fa noc: obrovsk\u00e9 \u017eiariace hviezdy na \u013eadovej pustatine, ticho a n\u00e1dhern\u00fd pokoj. Vyt\u00fa\u017een\u00e1 pr\u00e1zdnota.<\/p>\n

Zob\u00fadzame sa do in\u00e9ho sveta. Od r\u00e1na svieti slnko a posledn\u00fdch nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn do Porsmorku je vych\u00e1dzkou, po\u010das ktorej m\u00f4\u017eeme kone\u010dne vidie\u0165, \u010do v\u0161etko je okolo n\u00e1s. Kamenn\u00e9 p\u00fa\u0161te sa pomaly menia na tr\u00e1vnat\u00e9 str\u00e1ne  a zakrpaten\u00e9 les\u00edky, nad v\u0161etk\u00fdm tr\u00f3ni jeho v\u00fdsos\u0165 Eyjafjallaj\u00f6kull \u2013 vulk\u00e1n, ktor\u00fd svojou erupciou v roku 2010 zastavil na nieko\u013eko t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov leteck\u00fa prem\u00e1vku v celej Eur\u00f3pe.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Vulk\u00e1n\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Op\u00e4\u0165 je tu posledn\u00e1 rieka, ktor\u00fa treba prebrodi\u0165 \u2013 po v\u010deraj\u0161ku je to u\u017e len \u010dere\u0161\u0148a na torte \u2013 vn\u00e1rame sa do islandsk\u00e9ho les\u00edka a napokon dor\u00e1\u017eame do koncov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora v Porsmorku. O polhodinu prich\u00e1dza zn\u00e1my ter\u00e9nny autobus a tentokr\u00e1t vid\u00edm, na\u010do je vlastne dobr\u00fd. Autobus sa brod\u00ed cez rieky rovnako ako my pe\u0161o, jedna z nich m\u00e1 v\u0161ak vy\u0161e metrov\u00fa h\u013abku a pri prechode korytom n\u00e1m na okn\u00e1 \u0161pliecha voda.<\/p>\n

Ke\u010f v dia\u013eke za\u010dne by\u0165 vidie\u0165 a c\u00edti\u0165 oce\u00e1n, okolo n\u00e1s sa tiahne kotlina jedn\u00fdch z naj\u010dinnej\u0161\u00edch islandsk\u00fdch vulk\u00e1nov. N\u00e1dhern\u00e9 \u010dlenit\u00e9 svahy s\u00fa pokryt\u00e9 mierumilovn\u00fdm zelenkav\u00fdm porastom, no lok\u00e1lne katastrofy b\u00fdvaj\u00fa r\u00fdchle a ne\u00faprosn\u00e9. Bleskov\u00e9 povodne, zosuvy p\u00f4dy a v\u00fdrony l\u00e1vy s\u00fa s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou \u017eivota miestnych, ktor\u00ed tu napriek tomu vo ve\u013ekom pestuj\u00fa zeleninu a chovaj\u00fa dobytok. Ke\u010f napokon autobus vylezie na asfaltov\u00fa cestu a zastav\u00ed pri prvom asfaltovom parkovisku, v\u0161etk\u00fdm n\u00e1m je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee putovanie jedn\u00fdm z naj\u00fa\u017easnej\u0161\u00edch miest na tejto plan\u00e9te sa pr\u00e1ve nen\u00e1vratne skon\u010dilo.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Kone\u010dne\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Utrpenie. Pot. Aha, a e\u0161te kr\u00e1sa. Trojd\u0148ov\u00e1 t\u00fara jedn\u00fdm z naj\u00fa\u017easnej\u0161\u00edch miest tejto plan\u00e9ty: vulkanick\u00e9 vn\u00fatrozemie Islandu pln\u00e9 \u010dinn\u00fdch sopiek, \u013eadovcov a horsk\u00fdch p\u00fa\u0161t\u00ed. Tam, kde sa cez rieky prech\u00e1dza z\u00e1sadne broden\u00edm a kde sa \u013ead stret\u00e1va s oh\u0148om.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4030,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[330],"tags":[215,436,376,85],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4028"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8056,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4028\/revisions\/8056"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4030"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4028"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4028"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4028"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}