{"id":293,"date":"2007-11-10T15:18:43","date_gmt":"2007-11-10T13:18:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/index.php\/archives\/293"},"modified":"2019-01-20T01:53:05","modified_gmt":"2019-01-19T23:53:05","slug":"panamske-suostrovie-v-karibiku-bocas-del-toro","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/panamske-suostrovie-v-karibiku-bocas-del-toro","title":{"rendered":"Panamsk\u00e9 s\u00faostrovie v Karibiku – Bocas del Toro"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Upr\u0161an\u00e9<\/a>No\u010dn\u00fd autobus z Panama City n\u00e1s napokon vyp\u013e\u00fava tesne pred brie\u017eden\u00edm na severoz\u00e1padnom panamskom pobre\u017e\u00ed a kdesi v temnot\u00e1ch tu\u0161\u00edme obrysy s\u00faostrovia Bocas del Toro. Zatia\u013e sa len v\u0161etci turisti k sebe tisneme na zast\u00e1vke, preto\u017ee za\u010d\u00edna tropick\u00fd lejak a v\u0161etko naokolo sa zmen\u00ed na riavu hnedej bre\u010dky. O polhodinu nesk\u00f4r v\u0161ak sa v\u0161ak u\u017e ladne k\u013a\u017eeme na vln\u00e1ch Karibiku, m\u00ed\u0148ame posledn\u00e9 rozpad\u00e1vaj\u00face sa chatr\u010de na pevnine a tich\u00e9 brie\u017edenie n\u00e1s nach\u00e1dza na doh\u013ead prv\u00fdch ostrovov. S\u00faostrovie Bocas patr\u00ed k naj\u017eiadanej\u0161\u00edm destin\u00e1ci\u00e1m v Paname a trh s nehnute\u013enos\u0165ami ich onedlho pohlt\u00ed do cenov\u00fdch v\u00fd\u0161av, o ak\u00fdch sa n\u00e1m m\u00f4\u017ee len sn\u00edva\u0165. Rovnako ako Panama City a zop\u00e1r \u010fal\u0161\u00edch miest v Paname a Kostarike, za tento investi\u010dn\u00fd boom v\u010fa\u010dia stabilnej politickej situ\u00e1cii a takisto faktu, \u017ee Stredn\u00fa ameriku objavili americk\u00ed penzisti. Miesta s\u00fa atrakt\u00edvne, bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 a neporovnate\u013ene lacnej\u0161ie ako \u010doko\u013evek, \u010do si m\u00f4\u017eu dovoli\u0165 doma v \u0160t\u00e1toch. Zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00e1 publicita samozrejme l\u00e1ka z\u00e1ujem americk\u00fdch investorov a postupne sa tak\u00e9to miesta st\u00e1vaj\u00fa cie\u013eom \u010doraz exkluz\u00edvnej\u0161\u00edch projektov; za desa\u0165 rokov to tu bude pridrah\u00e9 aj pre penzistov (nevraviac o dom\u00e1cich) a vystrieda ich pr\u00e1zdninuj\u00faca vy\u0161\u0161ia stredn\u00e1 vrstva Ameri\u010danov.<\/p>\n

\"Ostrov<\/a>Zatia\u013e to tu v\u0161ak v\u0161etko len za\u010d\u00edna. Luxusn\u00e9 apartm\u00e1ny so s\u00fakromn\u00fdmi pl\u00e1\u017eami s\u00fa e\u0161te len vo farebn\u00fdch magaz\u00ednoch, kde l\u00e1kaj\u00fa kupcov, aby sa mohlo za\u010da\u0165 stava\u0165. Na ich miestach s\u00fa v \u010dase n\u00e1\u0161ho pr\u00edchodu pr\u00edrodn\u00e9 rezerv\u00e1cie, da\u017e\u010fov\u00e9 lesy a nanajv\u00fd\u0161 dreven\u00e9 chatr\u010de miestnych obyvate\u013eov. Zatia\u013e ich nikto nevyhadzuje z ich ostrov\u010dekov, nikto ich neodrez\u00e1va od z\u00e1sob pitnej vody a potrav\u00edn ani pred nimi nezamyk\u00e1 pr\u00edstav, aby sa dobrovo\u013ene vzdali pozemkov. S\u00fa to potomkovia africk\u00fdch otrokov, ale aj n\u00e1denn\u00edkov z \u010dias stavby panamsk\u00e9ho kan\u00e1la. Ich jazyk je neopakovate\u013en\u00e1 mie\u0161anina angli\u010dtiny, franc\u00faz\u0161tiny a l\u00e1manej \u0161paniel\u010diny, hovoria takmer s jamajsk\u00fdm pr\u00edzvukom a svet maj\u00fa \u201ena h\u00e1ku\u201c e\u0161te viac, ako ich hisp\u00e1nski susedia z pevniny. Okrem afroameri\u010danov \u017eije na s\u00faostrov\u00ed h\u0155stka p\u00f4vodn\u00fdch domorodcov a pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa vlastn\u00fd nezrozumite\u013en\u00fd jazyk.<\/p>\n

\"Koniec<\/a>Ke\u010f prist\u00e1vame na hlavnom ostrove archipel\u00e1gu a v jeho rovnomennom meste, de\u0148 e\u0161te st\u00e1le bojuje s \u0161erom. Tu, pri Karibiku, pr\u00e1ve kon\u010d\u00ed hurik\u00e1nov\u00e1 sez\u00f3na; ka\u017ed\u00fa chv\u00ed\u013eu sa vracaj\u00fa n\u00e1valy da\u017e\u010fa a ke\u010f bl\u00fadime po spiacich uliciach, m\u00e1m neskuto\u010dn\u00fd pocit akejsi snovej pochm\u00farnej krajiny, v ktorej sa poriadok vec\u00ed obr\u00e1til na hlavu. Karibik po\u010das hurik\u00e1nov vskutku nie je t\u00fdm najpr\u00edvetivej\u0161\u00edm miestom na plan\u00e9te, t\u00fdm sk\u00f4r, \u017ee palmy na bielom piesku, oh\u00fdban\u00e9 pod n\u00e1pormi siln\u00e9ho vetra, p\u00f4sobia v tejto panor\u00e1me a\u017e nemiestne. Len m\u00e1lokto z n\u00e1s nav\u0161tevuje svoje ob\u013e\u00faben\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00e9 destin\u00e1cie na jese\u0148 \u010di v zime. U\u017e len predstava, \u017ee by som sa mal na takomto mieste bezstarostne k\u00fapa\u0165, vyzer\u00e1 zvl\u00e1\u0161tne.<\/p>\n

\"\u017divot<\/a>O to je v\u0161ak n\u00e1\u0161 z\u00e1\u017eitok zauj\u00edmavej\u0161\u00ed. S \u010fal\u0161ou lo\u010fou u\u017e prech\u00e1dzame na ostrov Bastimentos, kde budeme b\u00fdva\u0165 a v na\u0161om drevenom hosteli napokon pozorujeme z hamakov ut\u00edchaj\u00facu tropick\u00fa b\u00farku. Lejak-nelejak, ostrov\u010dek je nesmierne malebn\u00fd. Je na \u0148om jedin\u00e1 dedinka, v ktorej b\u00fdvame, inak je porasten\u00fd da\u017e\u010fov\u00fdmi pralesmi a pobre\u017eie sa sklad\u00e1 z kr\u00e1snych bielych pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed. Takmer ka\u017ed\u00fd dom\u010dek tu m\u00e1 svoje vlastn\u00e9 m\u00f3lo, ktor\u00e9 prech\u00e1dza desiatky metrov do mora. M\u00f3la i domy s\u00fa z dreva, obalen\u00e9 patinou morskej vody a vetra, skromn\u00e9ho \u017eivota a tvrdej pr\u00e1ce ich majite\u013eov. Dom\u00e1ci nie s\u00fa pr\u00edli\u0161 priate\u013esk\u00ed; vidie\u0165, \u017ee tu nemaj\u00fa \u013eahk\u00fd \u017eivot a nestoja ani o zvy\u0161uj\u00face sa po\u010dty turistov. Osoh z nich maj\u00fa najm\u00e4 investori a bohat\u00ed majitelia ve\u013ek\u00fdch pozemkov, dnes u\u017e drviv\u00e1 v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina zo Severnej Ameriky.<\/p>\n

\"Karibsk\u00e9<\/a>Na s\u00faostrov\u00ed tr\u00e1vime nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed bez nejakej v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ej aktivity. Var\u00edme si jedlo, chod\u00edme na kr\u00e1tke prech\u00e1dzky na pl\u00e1\u017e a na in\u00e9 ostrovy alebo len tak, sed\u00edme na verande a \u010dum\u00edme na pochm\u00farny Karibik. Ob\u010das treba aj vypn\u00fa\u0165, nie? Je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 tr\u00e1vi\u0165 tu kr\u00e1tky \u010das, no ner\u00e1d by som tu ostal tr\u010da\u0165 do konca \u017eivota, ako mnoho Ameri\u010danov. Maj\u00fa tu u\u017e cel\u00e9 komunity, svoje obchody a kluby. \u017dij\u00fa z re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed a cestovn\u00fdch agent\u00far, miestnymi \u010dernochmi potichu poh\u0155daj\u00fa a v\u017edy ke\u010f ich pozorujem, m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee sa nev\u00fdslovne nudia. U\u017e na mlyne v Kva\u010dianskej doline, kde som b\u00fdval uprostred lesa ako pustovn\u00edk dva roky, je stokr\u00e1t viac zauj\u00edmav\u00fdch vec\u00ed, ako tu na ostrovoch. Viem e\u0161te pochopi\u0165 vysu\u0161en\u00e9 pani\u010dky, ktor\u00e9 sem doch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa za svojimi \u010derno\u0161sk\u00fdmi priate\u013emi, mlad\u0161\u00edmi o dvadsa\u0165 rokov. Za ich \u010das platia v tvrdej mene po\u010das svojho \u017eivota na Bocas sa udr\u017euj\u00fa v pr\u00edjemnom vzru\u0161uj\u00facom vytr\u017een\u00ed. Ale by\u0165 starn\u00facim ml\u00e1dencom a svoj de\u0148 deli\u0165 medzi vysed\u00e1van\u00edm v pr\u00e1zdnej re\u0161taur\u00e1cii a poobed\u0148aj\u0161\u00edm ch\u013eastan\u00edm pri z\u00e1kladoch svojho bud\u00faceho domu…\u010fakujem pekne.<\/p>\n

\"Mal\u00ed<\/a>Ke\u010f napokon op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame karibsk\u00fa oblas\u0165 a mierime do vn\u00fatrozemia Panamy, m\u00e1me obaja pocit, \u017ee sme pekne ukon\u010dili pr\u00edmorsk\u00fa \u010das\u0165 na\u0161ej cesty. Pl\u00e1\u017ee n\u00e1s nebavia, o to menej pieskov\u00e9 blchy a z\u00e1padniari, h\u013eadaj\u00faci svoj dovolenkov\u00fd raj z farebn\u00fdch \u010dasopisov. Po\u010das cesty m\u00ed\u0148ame chudobn\u00e9 panamsk\u00e9 dedinky, vyk\u00fakaj\u00face z palmov\u00fdch h\u00fa\u0161tin a \u010doskoro m\u00e1me mo\u017enos\u0165 v\u0161etko si pozrie\u0165 e\u0161te d\u00f4kladnej\u0161ie, lebo \u0161of\u00e9r minibusu pr\u00e1ve us\u00fadil, \u017ee m\u00e1 pr\u00edli\u0161 m\u00e1lo pasa\u017eierov a v n\u00e1deji na \u010fal\u0161\u00edch spomal\u00ed na r\u00fdchlos\u0165 chrom\u00e9ho cyklistu. Hodinu m\u00e1rne d\u00fafa, \u017ee niekto kone\u010dne vysko\u010d\u00ed z kr\u00edkov a zapln\u00ed mu miesta, ale nestane sa tak. Napokon kapituluje a prid\u00e1va plyn, v\u010faka \u010domu sa dost\u00e1vame do cie\u013ea na\u0161ej cesty e\u0161te v ten de\u0148.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Panama<\/a>
\nPozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb No\u010dn\u00fdm vlakom cez Stredn\u00fa Ameriku<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

No\u010dn\u00fd autobus z Panama City n\u00e1s napokon vyp\u013e\u00fava tesne pred brie\u017eden\u00edm na severoz\u00e1padnom panamskom pobre\u017e\u00ed a kdesi v temnot\u00e1ch tu\u0161\u00edme obrysy s\u00faostrovia Bocas del Toro. Zatia\u013e sa len v\u0161etci turisti k sebe tisneme na zast\u00e1vke, preto\u017ee za\u010d\u00edna tropick\u00fd lejak a v\u0161etko naokolo sa zmen\u00ed na riavu hnedej bre\u010dky. O polhodinu nesk\u00f4r v\u0161ak sa v\u0161ak u\u017e…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3584,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[302,124,411,103,123,408],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/293"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=293"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/293\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8101,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/293\/revisions\/8101"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3584"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=293"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=293"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=293"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}