![\"Cartagena](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/PB054839.JPG\" "\\"Cartagena")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
V\u0161etci s\u00fa tu mil\u00ed, akoby vedeli, \u017ee odch\u00e1dzame, po poslednej b\u00farke sa vy\u010dasilo a v tomto momente sa n\u00e1m zd\u00e1 takmer absurdn\u00e9, \u017ee m\u00e1me od\u00eds\u0165 kdesi do divokej Strednej Ameriky, nehovoriac o \u00c1zii. Znie to divne, ale fakt, mus\u00edm sa prizna\u0165, \u017ee Latinsk\u00e1 Amerika sa stala pre m\u0148a i v takom kr\u00e1tkom \u010dase nesmierne bl\u00edzkym miestom. Pomaly som za\u010dal ch\u00e1pa\u0165 v\u00fdznam ich ka\u017edodenn\u00fdch symbolov a ritu\u00e1lov, mot\u00edvy ich spr\u00e1vania, a najm\u00e4 zdokonalil sa v jazyku, tak\u017ee teraz vn\u00edmam drobn\u00e9 odtiene \u0161paniel\u010diny tej-ktorej krajiny, miestne nar\u00e1\u017eky, slang. Latinsk\u00fa m\u00f3dnu hudbu zvan\u00fa regeton u\u017e s Justynou po\u010d\u00favame \u010dastej\u0161ie, ako t\u00fa eur\u00f3psku a ke\u010f si m\u00e1m vybra\u0165 medzi z\u00e1padniarom a miestnym, v autobuse si rad\u0161ej sadnem ku stokilovej \u010derno\u0161ke s indi\u00e1nskymi rysmi, hoci s v\u0155zgaj\u00facou zubnou prot\u00e9zou pre\u017e\u00fava tekvicov\u00e9 semienka a \u0161upky mi vyp\u013e\u00fava na top\u00e1nky.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy: Napokon op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame Santa Martu na v\u00fdchodnom pobre\u017e\u00ed Karibiku: od Venezuely sme vzdialen\u00ed nieko\u013eko desiatok kilometrov a dokonale sme tak pred odchodom uzavreli cel\u00fd obrovsk\u00fd okruh po juhoamerickom kontinente, vy\u0161e 37.000 kilometrov v\u0161etk\u00fdmi predstavite\u013en\u00fdmi dopravn\u00fdmi prostriedkami. Za\u010dalo to pred \u00f4smymi mesiacmi vo Venezuelskom Caracase, ktor\u00fd bol po Kube na\u0161ou druhou zast\u00e1vkou, Ju\u017en\u00fa Ameriku onedlho \u201eukon\u010d\u00edme\u201c v…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[127,401,124,407],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/286"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=286"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/286\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8103,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/286\/revisions\/8103"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=286"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=286"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=286"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>Napokon op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame Santa Martu na v\u00fdchodnom pobre\u017e\u00ed Karibiku: od Venezuely sme vzdialen\u00ed nieko\u013eko desiatok kilometrov a dokonale sme tak pred odchodom uzavreli cel\u00fd obrovsk\u00fd okruh po juhoamerickom kontinente, vy\u0161e 37.000 kilometrov v\u0161etk\u00fdmi predstavite\u013en\u00fdmi dopravn\u00fdmi prostriedkami. Za\u010dalo to pred \u00f4smymi mesiacmi vo Venezuelskom Caracase, ktor\u00fd bol po Kube na\u0161ou druhou zast\u00e1vkou, Ju\u017en\u00fa Ameriku onedlho \u201eukon\u010d\u00edme\u201c v meste\u010dku Cartagena, vzdialenom od Santa Marty \u0161tyri hodiny jazdy cez povod\u0148ami zaplaven\u00e9 chudobn\u00e9 pobre\u017en\u00e9 dedinky.<\/p>\n
<\/a>U\u017e prv\u00e9 desa\u0165ro\u010dia od vzniku Cartageny v 16. storo\u010d\u00ed sa za\u010dala v tomto regi\u00f3ne r\u00fdchla expanzia smerom do kolumbijsk\u00e9ho vn\u00fatrozemia \u2013 pr\u00edbeh nesmiernej krutosti a drancovania vyspel\u00fdch domorod\u00fdch civiliz\u00e1ci\u00ed, vznik legendy o rozpr\u00e1vkovom poklade El Dorado, n\u00e1slednej zlatej hor\u00fa\u010dky a e\u0161te v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ieho vra\u017edenia. Cartagena pritom zohr\u00e1vala absol\u00fatne k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fa \u00falohu: bola hlavn\u00fdm pr\u00edstavom, cez ktor\u00fd smerovalo zlato, ukoristen\u00e9 Indi\u00e1nom, tam, kam patrilo: do \u0160panielska. Cartagena v\u0161ak za svoju d\u00f4le\u017eitos\u0165 musela i draho plati\u0165: po\u010das n\u00e1sledn\u00fdch storo\u010d\u00ed bola opakovane ter\u010dom \u00fatokov pir\u00e1tov a konkuren\u010dn\u00fdch eur\u00f3pskych ve\u013emoc\u00ed. Nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t zni\u010den\u00e1 a znovu obnoven\u00e1, do dev\u00e4tn\u00e1steho storo\u010dia sa z mesta stala takmer nedobytn\u00e1 pobre\u017en\u00e1 pevnos\u0165 presne v momente, ke\u010f kolumbijsk\u00e9 zlato a suroviny prestali by\u0165 d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9 rovnako, ako kamenn\u00e9 hradby vo vojenskej strat\u00e9gii.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dnes je to pokojn\u00e1 turistick\u00e1 destin\u00e1cia s koloni\u00e1lnymi budovami a architekt\u00farou, ak\u00fdm sa na kontinente nevyrovn\u00e1 nijak\u00e9 in\u00e9 mesto. Na uliciach vl\u00e1dne zad\u00fa\u0161aj\u00faca hor\u00fa\u010dava, \u0161v\u00e1by a leniv\u00ed predava\u010di, takmer nerozoznate\u013en\u00ed od uf\u00fa\u013ean\u00fdch \u017eobr\u00e1kov. Jedn\u00fdm slovom, Karibik. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 vidie\u0165, \u017ee Cartagena je v tomto momente jedn\u00fdm z m\u00e1la kolumbijsk\u00fdch miest, ktor\u00e9 si u\u017e dok\u00e1\u017eu privyrobi\u0165 na turistike. Hoci ako som spom\u00ednal, turisti cestuj\u00faci po tejto krajine s\u00fa zriedkav\u00ed, na karibskom pobre\u017e\u00ed prist\u00e1vaj\u00fa mamutie luxusn\u00e9 vyhliadkov\u00e9 lode a ich pasa\u017eieri sa v cel\u00fdch desiatkach m\u00e1to\u017ene prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa po rozp\u00e1len\u00fdch uliciach star\u00e9ho mesta. V\u010faka tomu tu n\u00e1jdete otravova\u010dov a zab\u00e1va\u010dov, \u010derno\u0161ky vo farebn\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 v\u00e1m vlez\u00fa pred objekt\u00edv a potom si za to vyp\u00fdtaj\u00fa peniaze, falo\u0161n\u00fdch sprievodcov, prostit\u00fatky, predra\u017een\u00e9 hotely a re\u0161taur\u00e1cie. Skr\u00e1tka v\u0161etko, \u010do je nevyhnutn\u00e9 pre dobre funguj\u00faci masov\u00fd turistick\u00fd priemysel. Kolumbia m\u00e1 pred sebou nepochybne dlh\u00fa a \u00faspe\u0161n\u00fa kari\u00e9ru.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Pri\u0161li sme sem len na menej ako dva dni a ve\u013ea sme toho neza\u017eili. \u0160v\u00e1by v k\u00fapelni tu dosahuj\u00fa podozrivo mal\u00e9 rozmery, s\u00fa to vlastne len tak\u00e9 \u0161v\u00e1biky, na uliciach je bezpe\u010dne a n\u00e1\u0161 tradi\u010dn\u00fd tanier ry\u017ee s fazu\u013eou a vypr\u00e1\u017ean\u00fdm ban\u00e1nom je aspo\u0148 tak\u00fd dobr\u00fd, ako v\u0161ade inde. Napokon sa prid\u00e1vame k ostatn\u00fdm turistom, br\u00fasime chodn\u00edky na tienist\u00fdch stran\u00e1ch ul\u00edc a s \u013eahk\u00fdm sm\u00fatkom si posledn\u00fdkr\u00e1t u\u017e\u00edvame atmosf\u00e9ru tohto neopakovate\u013en\u00e9ho kontinentu.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Ke\u010f sme sem po prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t pri\u0161li, Latinci mi pekne liezli na nervy a st\u00e1le ma dok\u00e1\u017eu poriadne na\u0161tva\u0165, ale ich spr\u00e1vanie sa mi u\u017e stalo pr\u00edli\u0161 bl\u00edzke. Ma\u010dovia so svojim po\u0165ahovan\u00edm vt\u00e1ka a hladkan\u00edm si brucha; sladk\u00e9 i tu\u010dn\u00e9 lok\u0161e, bezo\u010div\u00e9 a sebavedom\u00e9; drobn\u00e9 \u0161vindle; drz\u00ed zasrani, tup\u00ed \u0161of\u00e9ri, leniv\u00e9 predava\u010dky, ukecan\u00ed \u010da\u0161n\u00edci a v\u017edy priate\u013esk\u00ed okoloid\u00faci \u2013 toto v\u0161etko sa stalo i mojim svetom a stredn\u00e1 Eur\u00f3pa je ak\u00fdmsi vzdialen\u00fdm snom, alternat\u00edvnou realitou, ktor\u00e1 pravdepodobne nikdy nenastane.<\/p>\n
<\/a>V\u0161etko v\u0161ak m\u00e1 svoj koniec. 6. novembra 2007 v noci mierne pr\u0161alo; vystupujeme z tax\u00edka pri leti\u0161tnej budove, \u0161of\u00e9r n\u00e1s chce o\u0161mekn\u00fa\u0165, my sa v\u0161ak tv\u00e1rime, \u017ee o tom nevieme, lebo drobn\u00e9 sa n\u00e1m u\u017e na ni\u010d nez\u00eddu. Prech\u00e1dzame antidrogovou kontrolou, leti\u0161tnou kontrolou, \u010fal\u0161ou antidrogovou kontrolou. Dovol\u00edm si posledn\u00fa drzos\u0165 v ju\u017enej Amerike a p\u00fdtam sa policajta, \u010di mi vo vrecku ruksaku fakt nena\u0161iel nijak\u00fd koka\u00edn. Chlap\u00edk sa zamysl\u00ed, po\u0161krabe sa po hlave a vrecko pre istotu e\u0161te raz d\u00f4kladne presk\u00fama. Na palube n\u00e1s \u010dakaj\u00fa vegetari\u00e1nske ra\u0148ajky a sotva p\u00e4\u0165desiatmin\u00fatov\u00e1 cesta do ne\u010falekej Panamy. Ak som k Latinskej Amerike zabudol \u010doko\u013evek d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9 doda\u0165, budem ma\u0165 na to e\u0161te kr\u00e1tku pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165 po\u010das nasleduj\u00facich dvoch t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov medzi Panamou a Guatemalou. Pros\u00edme vypn\u00fa\u0165 v\u0161etky pr\u00edstroje a zariadenia, lietadlo je pripraven\u00e9 na odlet. Vyp\u00ednam.<\/p>\n
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia<\/a> \u00bb Cartagena<\/a>
\nPozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia, mier a l\u00e1ska<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"