![\"Karibik](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/PB044808.JPG\" "\\"Header")
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Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy: N\u00e1\u0161 posledn\u00fd jede\u0148 de\u0148 v Bogote. U miestneho kraj\u010d\u00edra si d\u00e1vam za\u0161i\u0165 v\u0161etko, \u010do sa d\u00e1, sed\u00edm hodinu v jeho izbi\u010dke na pr\u00edzem\u00ed len v tren\u00edrkach a pozorujem sychrav\u00fa ulicu v Candelaria. Ved\u013ea n\u00e1s le\u017e\u00ed kraj\u010d\u00edrova staru\u010dk\u00e1 matka na smrte\u013enej posteli, bez prestania ston\u00e1 a z \u010dasu na \u010das vyvol\u00e1va kraj\u010d\u00edrovo meno. Mu\u017e je u\u017e…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,412,401,124,407,121,123],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/284"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=284"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/284\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8104,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/284\/revisions\/8104"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=284"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=284"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=284"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>N\u00e1\u0161 posledn\u00fd jede\u0148 de\u0148 v Bogote. U miestneho kraj\u010d\u00edra si d\u00e1vam za\u0161i\u0165 v\u0161etko, \u010do sa d\u00e1, sed\u00edm hodinu v jeho izbi\u010dke na pr\u00edzem\u00ed len v tren\u00edrkach a pozorujem sychrav\u00fa ulicu v Candelaria. Ved\u013ea n\u00e1s le\u017e\u00ed kraj\u010d\u00edrova staru\u010dk\u00e1 matka na smrte\u013enej posteli, bez prestania ston\u00e1 a z \u010dasu na \u010das vyvol\u00e1va kraj\u010d\u00edrovo meno. Mu\u017e je u\u017e zvyknut\u00fd; matkino volanie u\u017e takmer ani nevn\u00edma a napokon sa ju v rozpakoch \u2013 bezv\u00fdsledne \u2013 sna\u017e\u00ed uchl\u00e1choli\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Bogotu napokon op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame v predve\u010der za\u010diatku novembra a vymie\u0148ame ju za v\u00fdchodn\u00e9 kolumbijsk\u00e9 pobre\u017eie Karibiku. T\u00fdm p\u00e1dom sme po dlh\u00fdch mesiacoch opustili Andsk\u00fa n\u00e1horn\u00fa planinu. Napokon, \u010dert ju ber. Je tam st\u00e1le zima a po pokuse o v\u00fdstup na Chimborazo m\u00e1m dos\u0165 nadmorsk\u00fdch v\u00fd\u0161ok. Okrem toho, n\u00e1horn\u00e1 planina u\u017e aj tak v Kolumbii zbabelo ustupuje do d\u017eungle a hor\u00facej Strednej Ameriky a viac na sever u\u017e po nej nie je ani stopa.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Vskutku, hne\u010f na prvej rannej zast\u00e1vke v akejsi \u0161pinavej cestnej re\u0161taur\u00e1cii n\u00e1s ovanie hor\u00faci vzduch a r\u00fdchlo zhadzujeme v\u0161etky tepl\u00e9 vrstvy, ktor\u00e9 sme mali na sebe kv\u00f4li autobusovej klimatiz\u00e1cii. Je tu st\u00e1le sychravo a \u013eudia s\u00fa ak\u00edsi nevrlej\u0161\u00ed, ale my sa te\u0161\u00edme z kr\u00e1tkych nohav\u00edc a tri\u010diek, nehovoriac o poh\u013eade na m\u00fatny Karibik po vyst\u00fapen\u00ed v meste Santa Marta.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Santa Marta nes\u013eubuje ni\u010d zauj\u00edmav\u00e9. Je neuverite\u013ene \u0161pinav\u00e1 a zanedban\u00e1 a jedin\u00e9, \u010do tu za nie\u010do stoj\u00ed, je pr\u00edstav s obrovsk\u00fdmi exkluz\u00edvnymi v\u00fdletn\u00fdmi lo\u010fami, pln\u00fdmi chudobn\u00fdch z\u00e1padn\u00fdch turistov. Nu\u017e, d\u00fafam, \u017ee sa v Santa Marta dobre bavia. My sme rad\u0161ej hne\u010f utiekli do ne\u010falek\u00e9ho letoviska Tananga, ktor\u00e9 sotva vyzer\u00e1 o nie\u010do lep\u0161ie, ale v okol\u00ed s\u00fa kr\u00e1sne lesy a ke\u010f dostanete horibiln\u00fd \u00fa\u010det za \u013eahk\u00fd obed, \u010da\u0161n\u00edci tu bud\u00fa aspo\u0148 s vami dobrosrde\u010dne vtipkova\u0165. Hne\u010f, ako sme vliezli do re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, za\u010dala tak\u00e1 prietr\u017e, \u017ee cesty sa v okamihu zmenili na drav\u00e9 rieky hlbok\u00e9 pol metra a viac. Prebrodi\u0165 sa cez drav\u00fd pr\u00fad m\u00fatnej vody nie je ni\u010d pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, t\u00fdm sk\u00f4r, \u017ee v \u0148om pl\u00e1vu odpadky a koryto skr\u00fdva nepr\u00edjemne hlbok\u00e9 diery. Treba sa v\u0161ak dosta\u0165 do hotela sk\u00f4r, ako voda st\u00fapne a m\u00f4\u017eu sa za\u010da\u0165 ozajstn\u00e9 probl\u00e9my. Po\u010dasie v Santa Marta v\u0161ak dokonale predznamen\u00e1va n\u00e1\u0161 nasleduj\u00faci nieko\u013ekot\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov\u00fd pobyt pri Karibiku v Kolumbii a Strednej Amerike: pri\u0161li sme po\u010das kon\u010diacej sa hurik\u00e1novej sez\u00f3ny a ni\u010d in\u00e9 sa \u010daka\u0165 ani nedalo.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Hne\u010f na druh\u00fd de\u0148, 2. novembra 2007, radi vypadneme z turistick\u00fdch rezortov a pres\u00favame sa do parku Tayrona zop\u00e1r desiatok kilometrov na v\u00fdchod. N\u00e1rodn\u00fd park le\u017e\u00ed na brehu mora a z\u00e1rove\u0148 prech\u00e1dza do hust\u00fdch da\u017e\u010fov\u00fdch lesov a nesk\u00f4r h\u00f4r, \u010do z neho rob\u00ed neopakovate\u013en\u00e9 miesto na t\u00fary a pozorovanie morsk\u00fdch i lesn\u00fdch zvierat. Nem\u00e1me tu v\u0161ak viac \u010dasu ako zop\u00e1r dn\u00ed a z posledn\u00fdch t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov sme tak\u00ed unaven\u00ed, \u017ee budeme radi, ak sa dovle\u010dieme na na\u0161u prv\u00fa skuto\u010dn\u00fa pl\u00e1\u017e od za\u010diatku cesty. S ruksakmi teda \u0161liapeme cez hust\u00fd tropick\u00fd les, nad hlavami n\u00e1m pobehuj\u00fa opi\u010dky capuccino a dobrosrde\u010dne n\u00e1s hryz\u00fa kom\u00e1re. Napokon les redne a pred nami sa otv\u00e1ra n\u00e1dhern\u00e1, hoci zachm\u00faren\u00e1 biela pl\u00e1\u017e. Hne\u010f, ako mi vlezie piesok do sand\u00e1lov, za\u010d\u00ednam ma\u0165 dos\u0165 v\u0161etk\u00fdch pl\u00e1\u017e\u00ed a je mi op\u00e4\u0165 smutno za pr\u00edjemnou chladnou n\u00e1hornou planinou. Fakt nie som pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00fd typ a te\u0161\u00edm sa na \u0148u v\u017edy presne dovtedy, k\u00fdm tam nepr\u00eddem.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Samozrejme, v\u00f4bec sme sa napokon nemali na \u010do s\u0165a\u017eova\u0165: tri dni k\u00fapania v priezra\u010dnej teplej vode, pot\u00e1panie ku koralov\u00fdm \u00fatesom, panor\u00e1ma lesov a h\u00f4r za na\u0161im chrbtom. \u010cerstv\u00e9 kokosov\u00e9 orechy a osvie\u017euj\u00face noci v hamaku a venezuelskej arm\u00e1dnej moskyti\u00e9re, ktor\u00fa n\u00e1m z\u00e1videli v\u0161etci ostatn\u00ed obyvatelia kempingu. Kom\u00e1re s\u00fa tu dos\u0165 nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9 a evidentne sme sa ocitli medzi nevinn\u00fdmi eur\u00f3pskymi amat\u00e9rmi, ktor\u00ed si pobyt pri mori predstavovali ako ich dom\u00e1cu mestsk\u00fa plav\u00e1re\u0148. Po svojich sk\u00fasenostiach z braz\u00edlskej Amazonky u\u017e vieme, \u017ee v\u0161ade, kde je dos\u0165 teplo na hamaky, je v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou aj dos\u0165 teplo pre kom\u00e1re a sp\u00e1nok v ar\u00f3me DEET mi vonia menej, ako \u013eahu\u010dk\u00e1 kvalitn\u00e1 sie\u0165ovina, \u0161peci\u00e1lne upraven\u00e1 na pou\u017e\u00edvanie s hamakom.<\/p>\n
<\/a>P\u00e1\u010di sa mi, ako veci v parku funguj\u00fa: administr\u00e1cia sa tvrdohlavo br\u00e1ni budovaniu ak\u00fdchko\u013evek ciest a infra\u0161trukt\u00fary a ke\u010f sa chcete dosta\u0165 na pl\u00e1\u017ee, mus\u00edte \u00eds\u0165 pe\u0161o, alebo si nanajv\u00fd\u0161 prenaja\u0165 mulu. V\u010faka tomu, \u010d\u00edm sa dostanete \u010falej od posledn\u00e9ho parkoviska, t\u00fdm viac je potrebnej n\u00e1mahy, stretnete v\u0161ak i t\u00fdm menej \u013eud\u00ed. Nie s\u00fa tu nijak\u00e9 lep\u0161ie hotely ani re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, nestretnete tu z\u00e1jazdy, cestovn\u00fdch agentov ani \u017eovi\u00e1lnych z\u00e1padn\u00fdch penzistov s obrovsk\u00fdmi fotoapar\u00e1tmi, ktor\u00e9 vedia ledva zapn\u00fa\u0165. N\u00e1\u0161 kemping je jedn\u00fdm z posledn\u00fdch \u201ecivilizovan\u00fdch\u201c miest, ku ktor\u00fdm sa d\u00e1 dosta\u0165 po dvoch hodin\u00e1ch \u0161liapania. Mus\u00edte si prinies\u0165 stan alebo pou\u017e\u00edva\u0165 er\u00e1rny hamak (ak nem\u00e1te svoj), k dispoz\u00edcii s\u00fa jednoduch\u00e9, no chutn\u00e9 jedl\u00e1 a va\u0161i spolub\u00fdvaj\u00faci bud\u00fa v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou pr\u00edjemn\u00ed, zvedav\u00ed cestovatelia; krvn\u00e1 skupina, s ktorou sa d\u00e1 ve\u013ea za\u017ei\u0165 a nasmia\u0165. Ke\u010f sa napokon 4. novembra do Santa Marta vraciame pre na\u0161e veci, tropick\u00e9 b\u00farky vystriedalo tropick\u00e9 leto. V prepoten\u00fdch tri\u010dk\u00e1ch stopujeme pri policajnej stanici mikrobusy: ignoruj\u00fa n\u00e1s policajti aj \u0161of\u00e9ri, ktor\u00ed pri poh\u013eade na na\u0161e ruksaky k\u00fdvaj\u00fa hlavami a odpor\u00fa\u010daj\u00fa tax\u00edk.<\/p>\n
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbijsk\u00e9 pobre\u017eie Karibiku<\/a>
\nPozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia, mier a l\u00e1ska<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"