![\"Zona](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/PA294628.JPG\" "\\"Zona")
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Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy: 28. okt\u00f3bra 2007 pokra\u010dujeme v na\u0161om expresnom turn\u00e9 po Kolumbii. V Argent\u00edne aj v Bol\u00edvii sme str\u00e1vili spolu viac ako p\u00e4\u0165 mesiacov a hoci ne\u013eutujem ani jednu hodinu, na Kolumbiu n\u00e1m teraz zost\u00e1va sotva mesiac; nehanebne m\u00e1lo, ak zoberieme do \u00favahy, \u010do v\u0161etko sa tu d\u00e1 za\u017ei\u0165 a uvidie\u0165. V autobuse do mesta Armenia cestujeme…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[401,407,129],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=283"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8105,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/283\/revisions\/8105"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=283"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=283"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=283"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>28. okt\u00f3bra 2007 pokra\u010dujeme v na\u0161om expresnom turn\u00e9 po Kolumbii. V Argent\u00edne aj v Bol\u00edvii sme str\u00e1vili spolu viac ako p\u00e4\u0165 mesiacov a hoci ne\u013eutujem ani jednu hodinu, na Kolumbiu n\u00e1m teraz zost\u00e1va sotva mesiac; nehanebne m\u00e1lo, ak zoberieme do \u00favahy, \u010do v\u0161etko sa tu d\u00e1 za\u017ei\u0165 a uvidie\u0165. V autobuse do mesta Armenia cestujeme s mladou mami\u010dkou, jej de\u0165mi a tot\u00e1lne opit\u00fdm chlap\u00edkom, ktor\u00fd po\u010das celej p\u00e4\u0165hodinovej cesty tvrdohlavo vyspevuje. Deti vyv\u00e1dzaj\u00fa do rytmu a v tejto priate\u013eskej spolo\u010dnosti n\u00e1m neprek\u00e1\u017ea ani dvojhodinov\u00e9 me\u0161kanie kv\u00f4li \u010fal\u0161ej hav\u00e1rii, ktor\u00e1 zablokovala cestu. Hav\u00e1rie v Kolumbii, to je absol\u00fatne neoddelite\u013en\u00e1 s\u00fa\u010das\u0165 cestovania; v deviatich pr\u00edpadoch z desiatich m\u00e1vame dlh\u00e9 me\u0161kania kv\u00f4li hav\u00e1ri\u00e1m. Typick\u00fdm obrazom na cest\u00e1ch s\u00fa tak stojace kol\u00f3ny autobusov a kami\u00f3nov, siahaj\u00face nieko\u013eko kilometrov. Osobn\u00fdch \u00e1ut n\u00e1jdete na vidieku st\u00e1le m\u00e1lo.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Pokia\u013e ide o hav\u00e1rie, mus\u00edm poveda\u0165, \u017ee kolumbijsk\u00ed \u0161of\u00e9ri s\u00fa ten najhor\u0161\u00ed odpad, ak\u00fd som za\u017eil na troch kontinentoch. To, \u017ee drviv\u00e1 v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z nich by dostala nedostato\u010dn\u00fa v ka\u017edej eur\u00f3pskej auto\u0161kole je jedna vec; na druhej strane \u2013 a to nem\u00e1 s kvalitou v\u00fduky ni\u010d spolo\u010dn\u00e9 \u2013 s\u00fa extr\u00e9mne, neskuto\u010dne bezoh\u013eadn\u00ed. \u0160of\u00e9rova\u0165 auto je tu zrejme v\u00fdsada nadraden\u00fdch, ktor\u00fa treba neust\u00e1le potvrdzova\u0165 na ceste. V\u00fdsledkom je, \u017ee ulice kolumbijsk\u00fdch miest s\u00fa nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9 pre v\u0161etk\u00fdch chodcov a cyklistov. Nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t som bol svedkom, ako n\u00e1\u0161 taxik\u00e1r alebo \u0161of\u00e9r autobusu skr\u00fatil volant priamo na \u010dloveka prech\u00e1dzaj\u00faceho cez cestu, akoby i\u0161lo o po\u010d\u00edta\u010dov\u00fa hru. Tak\u00fdto man\u00e9ver v\u017edy sprev\u00e1dza \u0161ialen\u00e9 tr\u00fabenie a osoba unik\u00e1 doslova o vl\u00e1sok. Je mi jasn\u00e9, \u010do sa deje, ke\u010f to chodec nestihne: v poslednej chv\u00edli, ke\u010f sa u\u017e ned\u00e1 unikn\u00fa\u0165, nedok\u00e1\u017ee veci zvr\u00e1ti\u0165 ani \u0161of\u00e9r. Treba si tu d\u00e1va\u0165 ve\u013ek\u00fd pozor.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Napokon \u0161\u0165astlivo prist\u00e1vame v Armenii, malom meste\u010dku vo vn\u00fatrozem\u00ed. Taxik\u00e1r n\u00e1s vezie k \u010fal\u0161iemu \u010dlenovi CS, ktor\u00e9ho n\u00e1m na\u0161iel Raul z Medell\u00ednu. Tak ako u Raula, s\u00eddlisko je oploten\u00e9 a str\u00e1\u017een\u00e9 ozbrojen\u00fdmi hliadkami. Stredn\u00e1 vrstva \u017eije v kolumbijsk\u00fdch mest\u00e1ch absol\u00fatne bez v\u00fdnimky v tak\u00fdchto izolovan\u00fdch enkl\u00e1vach s trojmetrov\u00fdmi plotmi, za barik\u00e1dami zo \u017eiletkov\u00e9ho dr\u00f4tu, do ktor\u00fdch sa v\u017edy prich\u00e1dza v zamknut\u00fdch aut\u00e1ch. Do desiateho-\u0161trn\u00e1steho roku \u017eivota sa ich deti odtia\u013e prakticky nepohn\u00fa. Vn\u00fatri maj\u00fa \u0161k\u00f4lky i z\u00e1kladn\u00e9 \u0161koly,ihrisk\u00e1, obchody, pr\u00e1\u010dovne. O pokoj obyvate\u013eov sa staraj\u00fa mu\u017ei so samopalmi a brokovnicami, krvila\u010dn\u00e9 psy a elektrick\u00e9 syst\u00e9my. Tak\u00fdto \u017eivot je pozostatkom star\u00fdch \u010dasov, beztrestn\u00e9ho l\u00fapenia, vr\u00e1\u017ed a \u00fanosov, pri\u010dom cie\u013eom mohol by\u0165 i \u010dlovek zo skromnej rodiny \u2013 ktoko\u013evek. Dnes sa Kolumbij\u010dania zo svojich bezpe\u010dnostn\u00fdch komplexov a permanentn\u00e9ho strachu e\u0161te st\u00e1le nespam\u00e4tali, hoci \u010dasy sa zmenili.<\/p>\n
<\/a>N\u00e1\u0161 hostite\u013e je mlad\u00fd zarasten\u00fd chalan s osudom melancholika; m\u00e1 v\u0161ak zhovor\u010div\u00fa a pohostinn\u00fa mamu, ktor\u00e1 n\u00e1s hne\u010f pozve na obed a zasype stovkami ot\u00e1zok. Po troch hodin\u00e1ch a s p\u013euzgiermi na jazykoch utek\u00e1me do ve\u010dern\u00e9ho mesta. V Armenii vl\u00e1dne povolebn\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra: po uliciach prem\u00e1vaj\u00fa d\u017e\u00edpov\u00e9 pickupy s hrd\u00fdmi v\u00ed\u0165azmi na korb\u00e1ch i napriek hust\u00e9mu lejaku, v\u0161etci s\u00fa tot\u00e1lne \u0161\u0165astn\u00ed, akoby zv\u00ed\u0165azil ich str\u00fdko, hoci mo\u017eno je to cel\u00e9 len pri pr\u00edle\u017eitosti ukon\u010denia volebn\u00e9ho z\u00e1kazu predaja alkoholu a straten\u00e9 tri dni treba r\u00fdchlo dobehn\u00fa\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 skoro r\u00e1no pokra\u010dujeme v putovan\u00ed po regi\u00f3ne. Naz\u00fdva sa Zona Cafetera \u2013 celkom prozaicky kv\u00f4li nekone\u010dn\u00fdm k\u00e1vov\u00fdm plant\u00e1\u017eam a povesti k\u00e1vy, najlep\u0161ej z najlep\u0161\u00edch. Onedlho n\u00e1s v\u00edta malebn\u00e9 meste\u010dko Salento s historick\u00fdm n\u00e1mest\u00edm a dobrosrde\u010dnou pa\u0148ou, , pred\u00e1vaj\u00facou ne\u010faleko \u010derstv\u00e9 vo\u0148av\u00e9 placky zvan\u00e9 arepa, priamo z ra\u017e\u0148a nad dreven\u00fdm uhl\u00edm. Ako v\u017edy, unuden\u00ed taxik\u00e1ri n\u00e1m na n\u00e1mest\u00ed s\u013eubuj\u00fa jazdu na koniec sveta – ako v\u017edy, odmietame. Desa\u0165 kilometrov od mesta sa nach\u00e1dza n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park a \u00fadolie Cocora s tzv. voskov\u00fdmi palmami, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa n\u00e1rodn\u00fdm kolumbijsk\u00fdm symbolom.<\/p>\n
<\/a>V\u00f4bec ne\u013eutujem, \u017ee sme sa sem vydali pe\u0161o. Prech\u00e1dzame n\u00e1dhernou zelenou krajinou s panor\u00e1mou h\u00f4r, m\u00ed\u0148aj\u00fa n\u00e1s jazdci na ko\u0148och a star\u010dekovia s no\u0161ami such\u00e9ho dreva. Takto vyzer\u00e1 skuto\u010dn\u00fd, nedotknut\u00fd kolumbijsk\u00fd vidiek. E\u0161te pred nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi rokmi bola Zona Cafetera z\u00e1rove\u0148 jednou z mnoh\u00fdch \u201eZonas Restringidas\u201c, \u00bbzak\u00e1zan\u00fdch z\u00f3n\u00ab, kv\u00f4li akt\u00edvnym \u013eavicov\u00fdm geril\u00e1m a tzv. \u00bbparamilitares\u00ab, polovojensk\u00fdm fa\u0161istick\u00fdm jednotk\u00e1m, bojuj\u00facim s partiz\u00e1nmi na vlastn\u00fa p\u00e4s\u0165. V\u00fdsledkom bola nestabilita regi\u00f3nu a obrovsk\u00e9 masy \u013eud\u00ed, unikaj\u00facich pred n\u00e1sil\u00edm do miest, do biedy a bezn\u00e1deje zahn\u00edvaj\u00facich slumov. Ak v\u0161ak na va\u0161ej prosperuj\u00facej farme jedn\u00e9ho d\u0148a zastavili zablaten\u00e9, hrdzav\u00e9 d\u017e\u00edpy s gu\u013eometmi a zarasten\u00ed mu\u017ei v\u00e1m dali do zajtra na v\u00fdber medzi smr\u0165ou a odchodom, obliekli ste v noci svoje deti, lacn\u00e9 \u0161perky zabalili do vreckovky a za tmy vyrazili pre\u010d, nech\u00e1vaj\u00fac za sebou zrel\u00fa \u00farodu, zvierat\u00e1, v\u0161etko, \u010do va\u0161a rodina po cel\u00e9 gener\u00e1cie opatrovala svojim potom a krvou.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dnes sa do t\u00fdchto zelen\u00fdch str\u00e1n\u00ed vr\u00e1til \u017eivot. Sedliaci pracuj\u00fa na farm\u00e1ch, pomaly sa rozv\u00edja turistika (hoci zatia\u013e s\u00fa to najm\u00e4 kolumbijsk\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edci) a voskov\u00e9 palmy sa clivo vyn\u00edmaj\u00fa na zahmlen\u00fdch horsk\u00fdch str\u00e1\u0148ach. Po n\u00e1vrate do Salento e\u0161te st\u00edhame obed v re\u0161taur\u00e1cii; d\u00e1vam si repete, no pani nechce o dvojn\u00e1sobnom \u00fa\u010dte ani po\u010du\u0165 a pre istotu n\u00e1s e\u0161te zadarmo po\u010dastuje k\u00e1vou. Priate\u013estvo a \u0161tedros\u0165, s ak\u00fdmi sa v Kolumbii stret\u00e1vame, je jednoducho \u0161okuj\u00faca; o polhodinu nesk\u00f4r pri spiato\u010dnej ceste autobusom sa Justyna p\u00fdta \u0161of\u00e9ra na n\u00e1zov skladby a ten jej vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed daruje CD i s obalom a praje \u0161\u0165astn\u00fa cestu. Zonu Cafetera op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame ve\u010der smer Bogota. Po tradi\u010dnej hav\u00e1rii a troch hodin\u00e1ch st\u00e1tia napokon zasp\u00e1vame, r\u00e1no n\u00e1s op\u00e4\u0165 v\u00edta Bogota, smog a novu\u010di\u010dk\u00e9 v\u00edza do Spojen\u00fdch \u0160t\u00e1tov Americk\u00fdch.<\/p>\n
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia<\/a> \u00bb Zona Cafetera<\/a>
\nPozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia, mier a l\u00e1ska<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"