![\"bogota](\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/PA224379.JPG\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 sa s\u0165ahujeme k n\u00e1\u0161mu nov\u00e9mu kamar\u00e1tovi z Couch Surfing, \u010falej od centra, k \u0161tvrtiam strednej vrstvy a str\u00e1\u017een\u00fdm \u010din\u017eiakom. Miguel a Pablo s\u00fa mlad\u00ed s\u00farodenci z ne\u010falek\u00e9ho mesta; ich rodi\u010dia si m\u00f4\u017eu dovoli\u0165 plati\u0165 im byt aj univerzitu. \u0160tuduj\u00fa biol\u00f3giu, cestuj\u00fa do \u0160t\u00e1tov a Eur\u00f3py, ved\u00fa usporiadan\u00fd \u017eivot; \u0161kared\u00e9 slov\u00e1 pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00fa len sporadicky a ich priate\u013eky od\u00eddu ka\u017ed\u00fd ve\u010der pred desiatou, ke\u010f\u017ee o sob\u00e1\u0161i a hriechoch s t\u00fdm spojen\u00fdmi nem\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 zatia\u013e ani re\u010d.<\/p>\n Napokon v\u0161ak dost\u00e1vame v\u00edza s prekvapuj\u00facou r\u00fdchlos\u0165ou. \u00daradn\u00edkovi sa vidite\u013ene u\u013eavilo z na\u0161ej plynulej angli\u010dtiny a za tri min\u00faty sme hotov\u00ed. Podobn\u00e9 \u0161\u0165astie v\u0161ak nemaj\u00fa ostatn\u00ed Kolumbij\u010dania: \u010fal\u0161\u00edch \u0161tyroch \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00ed nasleduj\u00fa za mnou, konzul odmietne a le\u017e\u00e9rnym pohybom ich stodol\u00e1rov\u00e9 \u017eiadosti roztrh\u00e1 priamo pred ich o\u010dami.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy: Po hornatom Ekv\u00e1dore n\u00e1s, zd\u00e1 sa, ne\u010dak\u00e1 ni\u010d odli\u0161n\u00e9. St\u00e1le \u00fazke, k\u013eukat\u00e9 cesty na \u00fap\u00e4tiach strm\u00fdch kopcov, na ktor\u00e9 nepom\u00e1haj\u00fa cestovn\u00e9 tabletky ani pr\u00e1zdny \u017eal\u00fadok. Autobus 18. okt\u00f3bra 2007 do Bogoty, to je 26 hod\u00edn nevo\u013enosti; prudk\u00e9 da\u017ede, kr\u00e1sne zelen\u00e9 r\u00e1no uprostred tropick\u00fdch z\u00e1hrad, driemaj\u00face kolumbijsk\u00e9 dedinky. Na malej zast\u00e1vke v hor\u00e1ch dost\u00e1vam prv\u00fa lekciu:…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,172,401,407,129,112],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/280"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=280"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/280\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8107,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/280\/revisions\/8107"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=280"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=280"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=280"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>Po hornatom Ekv\u00e1dore n\u00e1s, zd\u00e1 sa, ne\u010dak\u00e1 ni\u010d odli\u0161n\u00e9. St\u00e1le \u00fazke, k\u013eukat\u00e9 cesty na \u00fap\u00e4tiach strm\u00fdch kopcov, na ktor\u00e9 nepom\u00e1haj\u00fa cestovn\u00e9 tabletky ani pr\u00e1zdny \u017eal\u00fadok. Autobus 18. okt\u00f3bra 2007 do Bogoty, to je 26 hod\u00edn nevo\u013enosti; prudk\u00e9 da\u017ede, kr\u00e1sne zelen\u00e9 r\u00e1no uprostred tropick\u00fdch z\u00e1hrad, driemaj\u00face kolumbijsk\u00e9 dedinky. Na malej zast\u00e1vke v hor\u00e1ch dost\u00e1vam prv\u00fa lekciu: vynikaj\u00face vegetari\u00e1nske jedlo v stani\u010dnej kr\u010dmi\u010dke a sexy predava\u010dka, ktor\u00e1 ma i napriek Just\u00fdne po mojom boku oslovuje z\u00e1sadne \u00bbmil\u00e1\u010dik\u00ab. O p\u00e1r dn\u00ed trochu ochladnem, lebo toto oslovenie sa v Kolumbii pou\u017e\u00edva celkom be\u017ene a nie v\u017edy mus\u00ed znamena\u0165 za\u010diatok v\u00e1\u0161niv\u00e9ho vz\u0165ahu.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Kolumbijsk\u00fd vidiek lemuj\u00fa na cest\u00e1ch arm\u00e1dne posty: gu\u013eometn\u00e9 hniezda a mladu\u010dk\u00ed vojaci, ozbrojen\u00ed a\u017e po svoje odst\u00e1vaj\u00face u\u0161i. Po viac ako storo\u010d\u00ed vojen a nestability sa s\u00fa\u010dasnej vl\u00e1de dar\u00ed pomaly zav\u00e1dza\u0165 mier a poriadok. V mnoh\u00fdch in\u00fdch krajin\u00e1ch Latinskej Ameriky potenci\u00e1lne nepr\u00edjemnosti, v Kolumbii s\u00fa zbrane v ruk\u00e1ch vl\u00e1dnej moci z\u00e1rukou pokojn\u00e9ho sp\u00e1nku obyvate\u013eov, ktor\u00ed sa predned\u00e1vnom e\u0161te b\u00e1li cestova\u0165 hoci medzi dvomi susedn\u00fdmi \u0161t\u00e1tmi kv\u00f4li \u010dast\u00fdm \u00fanosom a n\u00e1silnostiam zo strany koka\u00ednov\u00fdch partiz\u00e1nov.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Po nekone\u010dne dlho \u010dase, nieko\u013ek\u00fdch arm\u00e1dnych kontrol\u00e1ch (s rukami nad hlavou sa vych\u00e1dza z autobusu a vojaci kontroluj\u00fa bato\u017einu) a \u010fal\u0161\u00edch hodin\u00e1ch cesty sa ukazuj\u00fa prv\u00e9 bogotsk\u00e9 slumy. Vyzeraj\u00fa rovnako zle, ako tie v Riu: vonku op\u00e4\u0165 pr\u0161\u00ed a chatr\u010de zo zinkov\u00e9ho plechu a kart\u00f3nov takmer pl\u00e1vu v spenenej, neuverite\u013ene \u0161pinavej bre\u010dke. Prejs\u0165 cez mesto trv\u00e1 \u010fal\u0161iu hodinu, napokon v\u0161ak u\u017e sed\u00edme v tax\u00edku a pozorujeme ulice zbl\u00edzka. Mnoh\u00e9 s\u00fa bez asfaltu a dopravn\u00e9ho zna\u010denia, no bli\u017e\u0161ie k centru sa pomaly zlep\u0161uj\u00fa domy i cesty, vyrastaj\u00fa prv\u00e9 mrakodrapy, tr\u00fabia star\u00e9 smrad\u013eav\u00e9 kraksne, na chodn\u00edkoch sa hm\u00fdria davy \u013eud\u00ed. Bogota vyzer\u00e1 divoko, to je fakt, ale p\u00e1\u010di sa mi.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Prv\u00fa noc presp\u00edme v akomsi hoteli v centre a potom sa s\u0165ahujeme k n\u00e1\u0161mu prv\u00e9mu kolumbijsk\u00e9mu dom\u00e1cemu z Couch Surfing. Z cesty sme tot\u00e1lne rozbit\u00ed, ale je st\u00e1le len r\u00e1no a prechr\u00e1pa\u0165 cel\u00fd de\u0148 v novom meste, to je ako zaspa\u0165 na prv\u00e9 rande. Nach\u00e1dzame sa v najstar\u0161ej mestskej \u0161tvrti Candelaria: \u00fazke ulice, star\u00e9, rozpad\u00e1vaj\u00face sa domy a na sten\u00e1ch \u017elt\u00e9 plag\u00e1ty, vyz\u00fdvaj\u00face na n\u00e1v\u0161tevu v divadle na Dostojevsk\u00e9ho Idiota. Okrem prech\u00e1dzky v\u0161ak mus\u00edme vybavi\u0165 term\u00edn na \u017eiados\u0165 o v\u00edza na americkej ambas\u00e1de a tento traumatick\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok bude zlat\u00fdm klincom cel\u00e9ho d\u0148a.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Tu v Kolumbii treba pre v\u00edzum do USA najprv z\u00edska\u0165 inform\u00e1cie a dosta\u0165 term\u00edn, \u010do funguje cez \u0161peci\u00e1lne telef\u00f3nne \u010d\u00edslo so \u0161peci\u00e1lnou tarifou 16 USD za p\u00e4tn\u00e1s\u0165 min\u00fat. Kolumbijsk\u00ed kamar\u00e1ti n\u00e1s u\u017e vopred varuj\u00fa, \u017ee oper\u00e1tori z ambas\u00e1dy to v\u017edy zahraj\u00fa tak, aby v\u00e1m jeden p\u00e4tn\u00e1s\u0165min\u00fatov\u00fd telef\u00f3n nesta\u010dil a museli ste zavola\u0165 druh\u00fd a e\u0161te lep\u0161ie tret\u00edkr\u00e1t. Vyzer\u00e1 to ako blbos\u0165, napokon, sme v 21. storo\u010d\u00ed a bav\u00edme sa tu o najvyspelej\u0161ej krajine sveta. Bohu\u017eia\u013e, je to tak. Moja telefonistka rozpr\u00e1va, akoby mala zubn\u00fa prot\u00e9zu z hrdzav\u00e9ho \u017eeleza a IQ 65. Namiesto inform\u00e1ci\u00ed, o ktor\u00e9 ju \u017eiadam, mi \u010d\u00edta imigra\u010dn\u00e9 uznesenia.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Teraz je na rade Justyna: ke\u010f ju napokon prep\u00e1jaj\u00fa k oper\u00e1torovi, ukazuje sa, \u017ee je to chlap. Rozumiem, \u017ee je piatok ve\u010der v latinskej amerike, \u010do nenech\u00e1 chladn\u00fdm ani reprezentanta konzul\u00e1rneho oddelenia, ale jeho neumyt\u00e9 zuby a siedme poldeci whisky je c\u00edti\u0165 pr\u00edli\u0161 bl\u00edzko i napriek digit\u00e1lnej \u00fastredni. Oper\u00e1tor je jednoducho o\u017erat\u00fd; bojuje so \u0161tik\u00fatkou a komplikovan\u00fdmi slabikami svojej rodnej angli\u010dtiny. Z\u00e1rove\u0148 Justynu dobrosrde\u010dne presvied\u010da, \u017ee Po\u013esko (Poland) je to ist\u00e9 ako Holandsko (Holland) a nijak\u00e9 v\u00edza teda nepotrebuje. Napokon s\u013eubuje, \u017ee to ide overi\u0165 a nasp\u00e4\u0165 k sl\u00fachadlu sa u\u017e nevr\u00e1ti. Takto uplynulo \u010fal\u0161\u00edch \u0161estn\u00e1s\u0165 dol\u00e1rov a Justyna st\u00e1le nem\u00e1 term\u00edn.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Za in\u00fdch okolnost\u00ed by n\u00e1m to bolo smie\u0161ne, napokon, n\u00e1\u0161 z\u00e1\u017eitok by bol prisiln\u00fd aj pre nov\u00fd film Michaela Moorea. Justyna sa napokon op\u00e4\u0165 spojuje s oper\u00e1torkou: dostala t\u00fa moju, s IQ 65. Dvan\u00e1s\u0165 min\u00fat ju posiela do \u010derta aj s memorandami o v\u00edzovej politike USA, ktor\u00e1 zaru\u010duje spravodliv\u00fd pr\u00edstup v\u0161etk\u00fdm ob\u010danom, a v\u010faka tomu z\u00edskava term\u00edn v riadnom \u010dase. S roztrasen\u00fdmi rukami vraz\u00ed telef\u00f3n na sl\u00fachadlo: prv\u00fa \u010das\u0165 m\u00e1me za sebou<\/p>\n
<\/a>Na uliciach vl\u00e1dne upr\u0161an\u00fd ve\u010der a smrad\u013eav\u00e9, preplnen\u00e9 autobusy. Prem\u00e1vka v \u00fazkych uli\u010dk\u00e1ch \u0161tvrte Candelaria pr\u00e1ve dosiahla absol\u00fatny kolaps. V\u0161etci od zlosti tr\u00fabia, okolo autobusov sa predieraj\u00fa chodci s d\u00e1\u017ednikmi a skupinky opitej ml\u00e1de\u017ee otv\u00e1raj\u00fa piatkov\u00fd ve\u010der priamo uprostred celej m\u00e4te\u017ee, na kri\u017eovatk\u00e1ch.Tesne predt\u00fdm, ako z n\u00e1s smog vyraz\u00ed aj posledn\u00e9 zbytky du\u0161evn\u00e9ho zdravia, unik\u00e1me do puli\u010dnej pizz\u00e9rie a v\u010faka sladkastej limon\u00e1de sa n\u00e1m v du\u0161iach pomaly rozlieva blaho. Pre\u013eudnen\u00e9 mest\u00e1 ma nap\u013a\u0148aj\u00fa hr\u00f4zou, no Bogota m\u00e1 aspo\u0148 vlastn\u00fd, neopakovate\u013en\u00fd \u0161t\u00fdl a spoza v\u00fdkladu, s hor\u00facou pizzou, vyzer\u00e1 \u0161ialenstvo tam vonku \u00faplne idylicky.<\/p>\n
<\/a>V\u010faka nim sa pre n\u00e1s st\u00e1va Bogota e\u0161te pr\u00edjemnej\u0161ia. Spozna\u0165 nejak\u00e9 mesto za pomocou dom\u00e1cich, to je nenahradite\u013en\u00fd uhol poh\u013eadu zasv\u00e4ten\u00fdch (a zainteresovan\u00fdch): mal\u00e9 pikantn\u00e9 veci\u010dky, polarizovan\u00e9 n\u00e1zory na politiku, ka\u017edodennos\u0165 \u017eivota, ktor\u00e1 inak ost\u00e1va turistom nedostupn\u00e1. Dozved\u00e1m sa, koho voli\u0165 a v ktor\u00fdch pajz\u013eoch ob\u010das skop\u00fa z\u00e1kazn\u00edkov, pre\u010do je \u201ein\u201c jazdi\u0165 v mal\u00fdch \u0161pinav\u00fdch mikrobusoch a nie v ofici\u00e1lnom MHD. Cez de\u0148 br\u00fasime ulice, ktor\u00e9 ve\u010der spozn\u00e1vame v rozhovoroch, e\u0161te st\u00e1le ma triafa \u0161\u013eak zo \u0161tvorcov\u00fdch blokov a ul\u00edc, ktor\u00e9 namiesto n\u00e1zvov nes\u00fa \u010d\u00edsla. Nie je to \u0161ialen\u00e9, rozdeli\u0165 bytos\u0165 na pravouhl\u00e9 \u010dasti pod\u013ea \u010d\u00edsel? Na americkom kontinente s\u00fa na to evidentne zvyknut\u00ed.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Ako v\u017edy na poriadnom novom mieste, nach\u00e1dzame tu i vegetari\u00e1nsku re\u0161taur\u00e1ciu a teraz sa tu u\u017e naozaj c\u00edtime takmer ako doma. Bogota le\u017e\u00ed na 2.650 m.n.m., v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou je pr\u00edjemne chladno a d\u00e1\u017e\u010f to nikdy nem\u00e1 \u010faleko. 24. okt\u00f3bra 2007 prech\u00e1dzame druhou inicia\u010dnou f\u00e1zou kv\u00f4li \u0161trn\u00e1stim hodin\u00e1m pobytu na letisku v Spojen\u00fdch \u0161t\u00e1toch: vystupujeme pri obrovskom komplexe ambas\u00e1dy, str\u00e1\u017eenej desiatkami vojakov. Po kontrol\u00e1ch sa dost\u00e1vame za trojmetrov\u00fd plot do vestibulu, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ieho ako bratislavsk\u00e1 hlavn\u00e1 stanica. Nerv\u00f3zni Kolumbij\u010dania tu strnulo posed\u00e1vaj\u00fa a z\u00fafalo sa sna\u017eia zachyti\u0165 moment, ke\u010f americk\u00e1 hl\u00e1sate\u013eka vykokce ich meno s nezrozumite\u013enou inton\u00e1ciou. Je dos\u0165 poni\u017euj\u00face, \u017ee \u00faradn\u00edci tu nem\u00f4\u017eu naja\u0165 \u010dloveka so slu\u0161nou \u0161paniel\u010dinou a som naozaj zvedav\u00fd, \u010do by povedala washingtonsk\u00e1 administrat\u00edva na v\u0161etko \u010do sme za\u017eili na ambas\u00e1de v krajine ich strategick\u00fdch region\u00e1lnych partnerov.<\/p>\n
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia<\/a> \u00bb Bogot\u00e1<\/a>
\nPozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Kolumbia, mier a l\u00e1ska<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"