![\"Quito](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/rovnik_uvod.jpg\" "\\"Quito")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Po\u010dasie v Quito je permanentne pred b\u00farkou; doobeda b\u00fdva pr\u00edjemne teplo a popoludn\u00ed za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa dlhotrvaj\u00face lejaky, ktor\u00e9 \u010dasto kon\u010dia a\u017e nadr\u00e1nom. Quito je takmer na rovn\u00edku, ale na druhej strane, aj v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke 2.850 m. Tropick\u00e9 po\u010dasie tu pr\u00edli\u0161 ne\u010dakajte. Okrem vybavovania v\u00edz chod\u00edme na zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 miesta alebo zab\u00edjame \u010das na internete. P\u00e1r kilometrov za mestom prebieha rovn\u00edk; pr\u00eds\u0165 do Ekv\u00e1doru a nenav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165 rovn\u00edk, to je ako pr\u00eds\u0165 do Pezinku a nehrkn\u00fa\u0165 si v\u00edna. Ekv\u00e1dor sa samozrejme ned\u00e1 zahanbi\u0165 a turistick\u00fd rovn\u00edk je roben\u00fd vo ve\u013ekom \u0161t\u00fdle: s\u00fa tu vedeck\u00e9 pavil\u00f3ny a planet\u00e1rium, folkl\u00f3rne s\u00fabory omie\u013eaj\u00fa do omrzenia svoje pesni\u010dky a na ploch\u00fdch noh\u00e1ch si \u010daptaj\u00fa do tanca. Nad v\u0161etk\u00fdm tr\u00f3ni obrovsk\u00fd kamenn\u00fd monument, postaven\u00fd na po\u010des\u0165 prv\u00e9ho franc\u00fazskeho vedca Charles Marie de La Condamine, ktor\u00fd tu v roku 1736 potvrdil polohu rovn\u00edka. M\u00f4\u017eete si urobi\u0165 fotku s ka\u017edou nohou na jednej strane pologule at\u010f.<\/p>\n Vybavovanie v\u00edz sa zatia\u013e uber\u00e1 spr\u00e1vnym smerom. V\u017edy, ke\u010f pr\u00eddeme na konzul\u00e1t, po\u017eaduj\u00fa od Justyny nov\u00e9 a nov\u00e9 papiere. Napokon v\u0161ak v\u00edzum dr\u017e\u00edme v ruke v\u010faka neexistuj\u00facim rezerv\u00e1ci\u00e1m na letenku – moja star\u00e1 dobr\u00e1 met\u00f3da z Kuby, a dozved\u00e1me sa i d\u00f4vody tohto \u0161ikanovania. Konzulka n\u00e1m ochotne prezrad\u00ed, \u017ee diplomatick\u00e9 \u00fasilie po\u013eskej strany o lep\u0161ie patnersk\u00e9 vz\u0165ahy s Kolumbiu sa rovn\u00e1 imid\u017eu dvoch tlst\u00fdch uprden\u00fdch dvoj\u010diat na \u010dele po\u013eskej vl\u00e1dy. Ost\u00e1va len d\u00fafa\u0165, \u017ee vo\u013eby, ktor\u00e9 o dva t\u00fd\u017edne zmietnu s\u00fa\u010dasn\u00fa po\u013esk\u00fa vl\u00e1du do z\u00e1choda, pom\u00f4\u017eu aj cestuj\u00facim Poliakom.<\/p>\n 18. okt\u00f3bra v\u0161ak napokon sed\u00edme o pol piatej r\u00e1no v \u010dak\u00e1rni autobusovej spolo\u010dnosti Panamericana a \u010dak\u00e1me zbyto\u010dne, preto\u017ee Autobus z Peru do Kolumbie havaroval u\u017e na ekv\u00e1dorsk\u00fdch hraniciach a zabil jedn\u00e9ho z cestuj\u00facich. Pracovn\u00edk spolo\u010dnosti n\u00e1s v\u0161ak milostivo zavezie na hlavn\u00fa cestu na hraniciach slumov Star\u00e9ho mesta, kde m\u00e1me \u0161ancu chyti\u0165 autobus na hranice. Pred v\u00fdchodom slnka u\u017e sed\u00edme natla\u010den\u00ed v storo\u010dnom pestrofarebnom autobuse a z horsk\u00fdch z\u00e1krut severnej magistr\u00e1ly n\u00e1s nutk\u00e1 na \u013eahk\u00e9 zvracanie.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy: Nez\u00e1visl\u00e9 cestovanie m\u00e1 oproti predplaten\u00fdm z\u00e1jazdom jednu obrovsk\u00fa nev\u00fdhodu: vybavovanie formal\u00edt, z\u00edskavanie v\u00edz, predl\u017eovanie pobytu a h\u013eadanie optim\u00e1lneho transportu m\u00f4\u017ee niekedy pochova\u0165 va\u0161e pl\u00e1ny v priebehu zop\u00e1r min\u00fat, ak ste na \u010dosi zabudli, alebo ak sa veci za\u010dn\u00fa ubera\u0165 nepekn\u00fdm smerom. Teraz, na sklonku pobytu v Ju\u017enej Amerike, sa to na n\u00e1s cel\u00e9 za\u010d\u00edna vali\u0165….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,404,401,89,112],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/277"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=277"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/277\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8108,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/277\/revisions\/8108"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=277"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=277"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=277"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>Nez\u00e1visl\u00e9 cestovanie m\u00e1 oproti predplaten\u00fdm z\u00e1jazdom jednu obrovsk\u00fa nev\u00fdhodu: vybavovanie formal\u00edt, z\u00edskavanie v\u00edz, predl\u017eovanie pobytu a h\u013eadanie optim\u00e1lneho transportu m\u00f4\u017ee niekedy pochova\u0165 va\u0161e pl\u00e1ny v priebehu zop\u00e1r min\u00fat, ak ste na \u010dosi zabudli, alebo ak sa veci za\u010dn\u00fa ubera\u0165 nepekn\u00fdm smerom. Teraz, na sklonku pobytu v Ju\u017enej Amerike, sa to na n\u00e1s cel\u00e9 za\u010d\u00edna vali\u0165. Je najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u010das k\u00fapi\u0165 si l\u00edstky do Strednej Ameriky a najm\u00e4 do \u00c1zie, Justyna v\u0161ak potrebuje v\u00edzum do Kolumbie. \u010cakanie na\u0148ho n\u00e1s stoj\u00ed desa\u0165 drahocenn\u00fdch dn\u00ed kysnutia v Quito – v momente, ke\u010f sa n\u00e1m m\u00ed\u0148aj\u00fa peniaze a \u010fal\u0161ie zast\u00e1vky si mus\u00edme vybera\u0165 nanajv\u00fd\u0161 obozretne.<\/p>\n
<\/a>To najhor\u0161ie v\u0161ak e\u0161te len \u010dak\u00e1. Kdesi medzi n\u00e1vratom z \u00fatulku Santa Martha a vyt\u00fa\u017een\u00fdmi kolumbijsk\u00fdmi v\u00edzami zist\u00edme, \u017ee z ju\u017enej ani strednej Ameriky neexistuj\u00fa priame leteck\u00e9 spojenia do \u00c1zie. Znamen\u00e1 to, \u017ee budeme musie\u0165 letie\u0165 cez Spojen\u00e9 \u0161t\u00e1ty – ve\u013emi zl\u00e1 spr\u00e1va! \u010eal\u0161ie v\u00edza, \u010fal\u0161ie stovky dol\u00e1rov za vybavenie v\u00edz. V Quito sa ubytujeme v akomsi hoteli v starom meste; rovnako ako na\u0161a cesta, svoj niekdaj\u0161\u00ed optimizmus m\u00e1 \u010faleko za sebou. Na\u0161a hotelov\u00e1 izba je pokryt\u00e1 vlasmi a \u0161pinou, postele cigaretov\u00fdm popolom a uter\u00e1ky nes\u00fa stopy po zle vytret\u00fdch zadkoch. Fakt by som si rad\u0161ej rozlo\u017eil stan na hlavnom n\u00e1mest\u00ed, len keby tam nebolo to\u013eko prorokov, navracaj\u00facich \u013eud\u00ed na prav\u00fa vieru. Napokon si n\u00e1jdeme in\u00e9 ubytovanie; pri odchode sa ma \u00falisn\u00e1 pani op\u00fdta: “A \u010do, nep\u00e1\u010dilo sa v\u00e1m?” “Nep\u00e1\u010dilo. Izba bola \u0161kared\u00e1 a \u0161pinav\u00e1.” Ak pracujete na takomto mieste a napriek tomu si chcete zachova\u0165 seba\u00factu, lep\u0161ie je na ni\u010d sa nep\u00fdta\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/a>\u010eal\u0161\u00ed hostel je u\u017e kraj\u0161\u00ed a samozrejme drah\u0161\u00ed, le\u017e\u00ed na za\u010diatku novej \u010dasti mesta zvanej Mariscal. Pr\u00e1ve v t\u00fdchto miestach pred desiatimi d\u0148ami napadli Mar\u00edu, jednu z dobrovo\u013en\u00ed\u010dok v Santa Martha. Pri l\u00fape\u017enom prepadnut\u00ed nechcela odovzda\u0165 svoje veci a tak ju chlap za\u010dal ml\u00e1ti\u0165 a napokon bodol nabr\u00fasen\u00fdm \u0161robov\u00e1kom do ramenn\u00e9ho svalu. Odovzdala.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Cel\u00e9 to m\u00e1 len jeden mal\u00fd probl\u00e9m. Rovn\u00edk prebieha okolo 240 m na sever; prv\u00ed vedci sa v 18. storo\u010d\u00ed pekne trhli a zistilo sa to a\u017e pomerne ned\u00e1vno, v\u010faka GPS; nov\u00e1 poloha bola potvrden\u00e1 i komplexn\u00fdmi anal\u00fdzami. Ekv\u00e1dorsk\u00e1 vl\u00e1da, ktor\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed cel\u00fd turistick\u00fd komplex, to berie ako provok\u00e1ciu a skuto\u010dn\u00fd rovn\u00edk ok\u00e1zalo ignoruje. Situ\u00e1ciu u\u017e vyu\u017eili in\u00ed podnikavci a 240 m na sever vyr\u00e1stlo nov\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 centrum, do ktor\u00e9ho smeruje \u010doraz viac autobusov, pln\u00fdch gringov. Tu je to rovnako patetick\u00e9 alebo e\u0161te hor\u0161ie, ako na “b\u00fdvalom” rovn\u00edku. Exkurzia vrchol\u00ed lacn\u00fdmi trikmi, ke\u010f v\u00e1m uk\u00e1\u017eu, \u017ee voda odtek\u00e1 v um\u00fdvadle na jednu stranu na severnej, a na opa\u010dn\u00fa na ju\u017enej o dva metre \u010falej. Na nama\u013eovanej \u010dervenej \u010diare s ozna\u010den\u00edm 0\u00ba 00′ 00” zemepisnej \u0161\u00edrky postav\u00edte vaj\u00ed\u010dko na u\u017e\u0161\u00ed koniec zaru\u010dene \u013eah\u0161ie, ako kdeko\u013evek inde na svete. At\u010f.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Quito bolo vskutku siln\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkom. Dusiv\u00e9 dni a prudk\u00e9 lejaky, povolebn\u00e9 demon\u0161tr\u00e1cie s jazdnou pol\u00edciou a slzn\u00fdm plynom, pouli\u010dn\u00e9 st\u013apy, na ktor\u00fdch bilboardy form\u00e1tu A3 pon\u00fakaj\u00fa vy\u010distenie trestn\u00e9ho registra \u010di u\u017e ide o pol\u00edciu, alebo Interpol, za rozumn\u00fa cenu. Quito, to s\u00fa pizze a lasagne v hotelovej re\u0161tur\u00e1cii, pouli\u010dn\u00e9 n\u00e1silie hne\u010f za jeho okovan\u00fdmi dverami, m\u00fazeum zlata so \u0161ialen\u00fdmi pokladmi, rabovan\u00fdmi p\u00e4\u0165 storo\u010d\u00ed od miestnych domorod\u00fdch kme\u0148ov. Str\u00e1vili sme tu viac \u010dasu, ako n\u00e1m bolo mil\u00e9.<\/p>\n
\nFotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Ekv\u00e1dor<\/a> \u00bb Hlavn\u00e9 mesto Quito a okolie<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"