![\"Vulk\u00e1n](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/chimborazo_uvod.jpg\" "\\"Vulk\u00e1n")
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Cez Riobambu prech\u00e1dza jedna z naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161ie budovan\u00fdch \u017eelezn\u00edc na svete; tiahla sa takmer cez cel\u00e9 ekv\u00e1dorsk\u00e9 Andy a jej v\u00fdstavba trvala desiatky rokov. Dnes je op\u00e4\u0165 v trosk\u00e1ch kv\u00f4li ch\u00fdbaj\u00facim peniazom na \u00fadr\u017ebu a najm\u00e4 opakovan\u00fdm zosuvom p\u00f4dy z dev\u00e4\u0165desiatych rokov po\u010das katastrof fenom\u00e9nu El Ni\u00f1o. Funguje u\u017e len jej mal\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 a sl\u00fa\u017ei turistick\u00e9mu priemyslu.<\/p>\n 19. septembra sa teda vraciame do n\u00e1\u0161ho kr\u00e1sneho hotela v Riobamba. Moje telo sa pomaly vracia do \u017eivota v men\u0161ej nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke a na druh\u00fd de\u0148 vymie\u0148ame vulk\u00e1n za miestne re\u0161taur\u00e1cie. Nie je to dobr\u00fd biznis, preto\u017ee n\u00e1js\u0165 tu norm\u00e1lne, slu\u0161n\u00e9 jedlo sa v Riobambe asi ned\u00e1. Hne\u010f 21. septembra 2007 sa napokon pres\u00favame do hlavn\u00e9ho mesta.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Ekv\u00e1dor<\/a> \u00bb Vulk\u00e1n Chimborazo<\/a><\/p>\n Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Tak bl\u00edzko slnka<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" 11. septembra 2007 vystupujeme v meste Riobamba; opit\u00fd taxik\u00e1r n\u00e1m s\u013eubuje nezabudnute\u013en\u00fa jazdu, ale vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed mu z r\u00fak vypadne pln\u00fd hrn\u010dek k\u00e1vy a my to pova\u017eujeme za zl\u00e9 znamenie. Riobamba, to je tak\u00e9 typick\u00e9 andsk\u00e9 meste\u010dko – \u0161pinav\u00e9 ulice z lacn\u00fdch \u0161ed\u00fdch domov vyrastaj\u00facich bez ladu a skladu, s\u00fdtozelen\u00e1 veget\u00e1cia. Na uliciach sa prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa ma\u010dovia…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1693,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[404,401,89,97,85],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/262"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=262"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/262\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8111,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/262\/revisions\/8111"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1693"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=262"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=262"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=262"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>11. septembra 2007 vystupujeme v meste Riobamba; opit\u00fd taxik\u00e1r n\u00e1m s\u013eubuje nezabudnute\u013en\u00fa jazdu, ale vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed mu z r\u00fak vypadne pln\u00fd hrn\u010dek k\u00e1vy a my to pova\u017eujeme za zl\u00e9 znamenie. Riobamba, to je tak\u00e9 typick\u00e9 andsk\u00e9 meste\u010dko – \u0161pinav\u00e9 ulice z lacn\u00fdch \u0161ed\u00fdch domov vyrastaj\u00facich bez ladu a skladu, s\u00fdtozelen\u00e1 veget\u00e1cia. Na uliciach sa prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa ma\u010dovia s \u010diernymi ul\u00edzan\u00fdmi vlasmi a tri\u010dkami, ktor\u00fdch n\u00e1pisy vyz\u00fdvaj\u00fa v\u0161etky vag\u00edny do bojovej pohotovosti. Mie\u0161aj\u00fa sa s nimi domorodci, turisti, stredo\u0161kol\u00e1ci v uniform\u00e1ch. Jednoducho ni\u010d moc a z\u00e1rove\u0148 na\u0161a ka\u017edodennos\u0165, ktor\u00e1 mi bude doma ur\u010dite tak ve\u013emi ch\u00fdba\u0165.<\/p>\n
<\/a>N\u00e1s v\u0161ak nezauj\u00edma \u017eeleznica ani sl\u00e1vny \u00bbDiabolsk\u00fd nos\u00ab, strm\u00fd horsk\u00fd \u00fasek, cez ktor\u00fd prech\u00e1dza. Ne\u010faleko Riobamby sa t\u00fd\u010di vulk\u00e1n Chimborazo, najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vrch Ekv\u00e1doru a u\u017e cel\u00e9 t\u00fd\u017edne sa te\u0161\u00edme na v\u00fdstup. Chimborazo: 6.310 m.n.m.; osamoten\u00fd, pokryt\u00fd \u013eadovcom a vulkanick\u00fdm prachom. Jeho vrchol je z\u00e1rove\u0148 najvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm bodom tejto plan\u00e9ty v absol\u00fatnych \u010d\u00edslach, tj. pri meran\u00ed od stredu Zeme. Mt. Everest je najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vrch v na\u0161om arbitr\u00e1lnom syst\u00e9me merania nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky, kde 0 metrov znamen\u00e1 \u00farove\u0148 morsk\u00fdch hlad\u00edn. Ke\u010f\u017ee je v\u0161ak Chimborazo tak bl\u00edzko rovn\u00edka a teda najvypuklej\u0161ej \u010dasti na\u0161ej elipsovitej plan\u00e9ty, vzh\u013eadom na stred Zeme prevy\u0161uje Mt. Everest o \u010dosi vy\u0161e 200 m. a z\u00e1rove\u0148 je to bod, le\u017eiaci na Zemi najbli\u017e\u0161ie k slnku.<\/p>\n
<\/a>V Riobambe obch\u00e1dzame miestne agent\u00fary a zis\u0165ujeme podmienky i cenu v\u00fdstupu.Napokon si vyber\u00e1me jednu z najstar\u0161\u00edch a najrenomovanej\u0161\u00edch agent\u00far, dost\u00e1vame v\u00fdstroj a sk\u00fasen\u00e9ho sprievodcu. 17. septembra za\u010d\u00edname prv\u00fa f\u00e1zu aklimatiz\u00e1cie; autobusom vych\u00e1dzame pod \u00fap\u00e4tie obrovsk\u00e9ho, majest\u00e1tneho Chimborazo a pomaly st\u00fapame k poslednej horskej chate na 5.000 m.n.m. Svahy okolo n\u00e1s s\u00fa pokryt\u00e9 vulkanick\u00fdm prachom, pobehuj\u00fa tu st\u00e1da vicun\u00ed. Nad nami sa t\u00fd\u010di vrchol, celkom pokryt\u00fd hrub\u00fdm \u013eadovcom. Beloba ostro kontrastuje s hnedo\u010derven\u00fdmi skalami a tmavomodr\u00fdm nebom. Pod\u013ea obyvate\u013eov horskej chaty sa dnes vy\u010dasilo prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t po mesiaci a je dobr\u00fd predpoklad, \u017ee po\u010dasie n\u00e1m bude pria\u0165 i v najbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch d\u0148och.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dnes sme pln\u00ed s\u00edl a optimizmu; aklimatiz\u00e1ciu zn\u00e1\u0161ame ve\u013emi dobre, po mesiacoch str\u00e1ven\u00fdch na Andskej n\u00e1hornej planine vo v\u00fd\u0161ke 3.000 m.n.m. a viac st\u00fapame ku kontroln\u00e9mu aklimatiza\u010dn\u00e9mu bodu na 5.300 m.n.m. bez ak\u00fdchko\u013evek probl\u00e9mov. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee vrchol m\u00e1me na dosah: zajtra sa sem vr\u00e1time i so sprievodcom a v\u00fdstrojou a za\u010dneme v\u00fdstup z druhej strany svahu, naostro. Vraciame sa teda do Riobamby a za\u017e\u00edvame posledn\u00fa pokojn\u00fa noc pred v\u00fdstupom, preto\u017ee zajtra, vo vysokej nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke, na\u0161e telo na odpo\u010dinok pr\u00edli\u0161 ve\u013ek\u00fa \u0161ancu ma\u0165 nebude. Ako hovor\u00ed star\u00e9 dobr\u00e9 horolezeck\u00e9 porekadlo, \u0161plhaj vysoko, presp\u00e1vaj n\u00edzko…<\/p>\n
<\/a>Na vrchol vulk\u00e1nu Chimborazo sme sa napokon nikdy nedostali. Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 v noci sme za\u010dali v\u00fdstup rovnako ako ostatn\u00e9 \u0161tyri skupiny horolezcov a rovnako ako oni, museli sme sa vr\u00e1ti\u0165. Dnes sa v\u00fdstup na tento vrch st\u00e1va skuto\u010dnou v\u00fdzvou aj pre profesion\u00e1lov, preto\u017ee s postupuj\u00facim glob\u00e1lnym otep\u013eovan\u00edm a umieran\u00edm tropick\u00fdch \u013eadovcov sa menia i povrch a podmienky v\u00fdstupu na ne. Ch\u00fdba n\u00e1m \u010dosi s\u00edl a ve\u013ea, ve\u013ea technick\u00fdch zdatnosti pri \u0161plhan\u00ed sa takmer kolm\u00fdm \u013eadov\u00fdm po\u013eom po\u010das \u00f4smych, a n\u00e1slednom zostupe \u010fal\u0161\u00edch \u0161tyroch hod\u00edn. Sch\u00e1dzame s \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdm srdcom, vy\u010derpan\u00ed a so sympt\u00f3mami choroby z nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky. V horskej chate sa stret\u00e1vame s ostatn\u00fdmi ne\u00faspe\u0161n\u00fdmi horolezcami a v sklesnutej n\u00e1lade sch\u00e1dzame o dvesto metrov nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky ni\u017e\u0161ie, na miesto, kde sa za\u010d\u00edna cesta pre automobily.<\/p>\n
<\/a>V\u010faka tomuto v\u00fdstupu sme pochopili v\u0161eli\u010do nov\u00e9 o pozad\u00ed cel\u00e9ho podujatia i o sp\u00f4sobe, ak\u00fdm funguj\u00fa miestne agent\u00fary pri dohadzovan\u00ed t\u00fdchto v\u00fdprav turistom. Je to pr\u00edbeh sveta za farebnou poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> a za sladk\u00fdmi s\u013eubmi \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00ed s\u00fa za va\u0161e peniaze ochotn\u00ed obetova\u0165 v\u00e1\u0161 \u017eivot. Pr\u00edbeh Tak bl\u00edzko slnka n\u00e1jdete tu<\/a>.<\/p>\n