![\"\"](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/P8292672.JPG\")
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Po \u010fal\u0161\u00edch dvoch d\u0148och v tomto kr\u00e1snom, priate\u013eskom meste napokon nastupujeme do dia\u013ekov\u00e9ho autobusu. Spolo\u010dnos\u0165 n\u00e1m u\u017e tradi\u010dne zabudla pripravi\u0165 vegetari\u00e1nske jedlo, ktor\u00e9 sme si objednali, no stewardky sa s\u013e\u00fabia polep\u0161i\u0165 a 3. septembra vyr\u00e1\u017eame krkolomnou horskou cestou do hlavn\u00e9ho mesta Lima.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Peru<\/a> \u00bb Machu Picchu<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" 28. augusta 2007 nastupujeme v akomsi zadnom dvore do autobusu a mierime do \u0165a\u017eko vyslovite\u013en\u00e9ho meste\u010dka Ollantaytambo. V Peru, ako aj v nieko\u013ek\u00fdch in\u00fdch juhoamerick\u00fdch \u0161t\u00e1toch m\u00e1 ka\u017ed\u00e1 dopravn\u00e1 spolo\u010dnos\u0165 vlastn\u00e9 autobusov\u00e9 stanice, alebo aspo\u0148 \u010dosi, \u010do sa na ne podob\u00e1. \u010casto je to pr\u00e1ve zadn\u00fd dvor nejak\u00e9ho rodinn\u00e9ho domu, alebo jednoducho parkovisko kdesi na…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[402,83,401,89,400,91,87],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/246"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=246"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/246\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8115,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/246\/revisions\/8115"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=246"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=246"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=246"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>28. augusta 2007 nastupujeme v akomsi zadnom dvore do autobusu a mierime do \u0165a\u017eko vyslovite\u013en\u00e9ho meste\u010dka Ollantaytambo. V Peru, ako aj v nieko\u013ek\u00fdch in\u00fdch juhoamerick\u00fdch \u0161t\u00e1toch m\u00e1 ka\u017ed\u00e1 dopravn\u00e1 spolo\u010dnos\u0165 vlastn\u00e9 autobusov\u00e9 stanice, alebo aspo\u0148 \u010dosi, \u010do sa na ne podob\u00e1. \u010casto je to pr\u00e1ve zadn\u00fd dvor nejak\u00e9ho rodinn\u00e9ho domu, alebo jednoducho parkovisko kdesi na mestskej ulici. V pr\u00edpade, \u017ee mesto m\u00e1 centr\u00e1lnu stanicu, cestuj\u00faci musia v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou plati\u0165 osobitn\u00e9 vstupn\u00e9 za pr\u00e1vo nast\u00fapi\u0165 tu do autobusu.<\/p>\n
<\/a> Autobus je pln\u00fd dedin\u010danov a ledva sa pohneme, vstane ak\u00fdsi zab\u00e1va\u010d. Nasleduj\u00facu polhodinu n\u00e1m d\u00e1va h\u00e1danky, rozd\u00e1va cukr\u00edky at\u010f. Samozrejme, na konci vyzbiera peniaze – ukazuje sa, \u017ee cukr\u00edk stoj\u00ed 50 centov. Hne\u010f po \u0148om preber\u00e1 \u0161tafetu seri\u00f3zna pani s ta\u0161kou od laptopu, v ktorej m\u00e1 univerz\u00e1lny liek za 2 soles. Je nudnej\u0161ia, ako zab\u00e1va\u010d pred \u0148ou. Za\u010d\u00edna mu\u017esk\u00fdmi probl\u00e9mami so span\u00edm a \u017eal\u00fado\u010dn\u00fdmi parazitmi; prech\u00e1dza ku materniciam a vag\u00ednam, \u010d\u00edm z\u00edskava moju zasl\u00fa\u017een\u00fa pozornos\u0165, ale hne\u010f nato men\u00ed t\u00e9mu na detsk\u00e9 ko\u017en\u00e9 plesne a pomaly zasp\u00e1vam. \u013dud\u00ed v autobuse, ktovie pre\u010do, liek na v\u0161etky vymenovan\u00e9 choroby pr\u00edli\u0161 nezauj\u00edma, ba \u010do viac, p\u00e1nko v strednom veku, sediaci predo mnou, si jeden uchmatne bez zaplatenia.<\/p>\n
<\/a> V meste\u010dku Urubamba, zabudnutom v horskej doline, men\u00edme spoj a napokon vystupujeme v Ollantaytambo. V\u0161ade okolo s\u00fa lesy a inksk\u00e9 ruiny, dedina je u\u017e celkom pohlten\u00e1 turistick\u00fdm ruchom. V jednej z desiatok re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed absolvujeme typick\u00fa juhoamerick\u00fa pizzu, ktor\u00e1 takmer v\u017edy obsahuje cesto, v strede e\u0161te st\u00e1le zamrznut\u00e9 a odporn\u00fd sladkast\u00fd syr. Sna\u017e\u00edme sa zabi\u0165 \u010das do ve\u010dern\u00e9ho vlaku a nie je to tak\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9, preto\u017ee v\u0161etky atrakcie z okolia Cuzco vyberaj\u00fa neuverite\u013ene vysok\u00e9 vstupn\u00e9. Boli by sme bl\u00e1zni, keby sme vyst\u00fapili na tieto ruiny na 30 min\u00fat a zaplatili to\u013eko isto dol\u00e1rov, ale evidentne je tu dos\u0165 turistov, ktor\u00fdm to neprek\u00e1\u017ea.<\/div>\n
<\/a> Ve\u010dern\u00fd vlak je najlacnej\u0161\u00ed dopravn\u00fd prostriedok a zapln\u00ed sa do posledn\u00e9ho miesta. Onedlho u\u017e vystupujeme v meste Aguas Calientes; je stisnut\u00e9 strm\u00fdmi horami a le\u017e\u00ed priamo pod Machu Picchu. Mesto je samo osebe neuverite\u013ene \u0161kared\u00e9 a predra\u017een\u00e9, sklad\u00e1 sa v\u00fdlu\u010dne z hotelov a re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed. Vyzer\u00e1, akoby bolo postaven\u00e9 zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho, \u010do bolo akur\u00e1t poruke: luxusn\u00e9 re\u0161taur\u00e1cie s\u00fa obit\u00e9 vlnit\u00fdm plechom \u010di dokonca kart\u00f3nmi a ani na sekundu nem\u00e1te pochybnosti, \u017ee va\u0161e peniaze s\u00fa jedin\u00fd d\u00f4vod, pre\u010do sa tu h\u00fdbe aj posledn\u00e1 h\u00fasenica.<\/p>\n
<\/a> Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 skoro r\u00e1no berieme prv\u00fd autobus na Machu Picchu. Dvadsa\u0165min\u00fatov\u00e1 cesta stoj\u00ed 12 dol\u00e1rov, napokon v\u0161ak stoj\u00edme na vrchole smrte\u013ene strm\u00e9ho svahu a prech\u00e1dzame br\u00e1nami monumentu (vstupn\u00e9 = 40 dol\u00e1rov). \u0160t\u00edty s\u00fa v oblakoch, pomaly sa pred nami otv\u00e1ra v\u00fdh\u013ead na zabudnut\u00e9 mesto, ktor\u00e9 Inkovia opustili z nezn\u00e1mych d\u00f4vodov. A a\u017e do 20. storo\u010dia o jeho existencii netu\u0161il takmer nikto. Bolo to s\u00eddlo kr\u00e1\u013ea a nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa sa tu absol\u00fatne skvosty inkskej architkt\u00fary. Mno\u017estvo budov sa sklad\u00e1 z dokonal\u00fdch, prec\u00edzne opracovan\u00fdch kame\u0148ov a technol\u00f3gia ich skladania ich predur\u010duje pre\u017ei\u0165 takmer ka\u017ed\u00e9 zemetrasenie.<\/p>\n
<\/a> Machu Picchu je obrovsk\u00e9. R\u00e1no sme tu takmer sami, prech\u00e1dzame sa okolo desiatok ru\u00edn budov lemovan\u00fdch tr\u00e1vou a kvitn\u00facimi stromami, okolo chr\u00e1mov a n\u00e1mest\u00ed. V momente, ke\u010f som toto miesto uvidel, pochopil som, \u017ee moja po\u010diato\u010dn\u00e1 nechu\u0165 vo\u010di jeho aure turistick\u00e9ho no. 1 v ju\u017enej Amerike, vo\u010di reput\u00e1cii jedn\u00e9ho zo siedmych divov sveta a ostatn\u00fdm pr\u00edvlastkom slizk\u00e9ho turistick\u00e9ho priemyslu, bola zbyto\u010dn\u00e1 a detinsk\u00e1. Machu Picchu je absol\u00fatne v\u00fdnimo\u010dn\u00e9 miesto bez oh\u013eadu na mno\u017estvo leniv\u00fdch turistov vo v\u0161etk\u00fdch t\u00fdch z\u00e1jazdoch, ktor\u00e9 ho zaplavia okolo poludnia a o dve hodiny zmizn\u00fa na svoj zasl\u00fa\u017een\u00fd obed.<\/p>\n
<\/a> Cel\u00fd de\u0148 tu ohromen\u00ed loz\u00edme po ruin\u00e1ch a kopcoch, hmlu strieda d\u00e1\u017e\u010f a slnko, kr\u00e1\u013eovsk\u00e9 mesto n\u00e1m ukazuje v\u0161etky svoje tajomn\u00e9 tv\u00e1re farieb a odtie\u0148ov. Nave\u010der sa vraciame dole, skoro r\u00e1no na druh\u00fd de\u0148 op\u00e4\u0165 nastupujeme na vlak in\u0161titucionalizovanej mafie zvanej Peru\u00e1nske \u017eeleznice a vystupujeme v Ollantaytambo. \u010cak\u00e1 n\u00e1s tu zo dvesto taxik\u00e1rov, pripraven\u00fdch zobra\u0165 n\u00e1s na koniec sveta; my v\u010fa\u010dne nast\u00fapime do otl\u010den\u00e9ho dedinsk\u00e9ho autobusu a rann\u00e9 slnko n\u00e1s u\u017e v\u00edta pri starobylej katedr\u00e1le v Cuzco.<\/p>\n