{"id":245,"date":"2007-08-28T03:59:54","date_gmt":"2007-08-28T01:59:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=245"},"modified":"2019-01-20T10:01:36","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T08:01:36","slug":"v-meste-cuzco","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/v-meste-cuzco","title":{"rendered":"V meste Cuzco"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/div>\n

\"V<\/a>Do Cuzco prich\u00e1dzame 26. augusta skoro r\u00e1no, po celono\u010dnej, nie pr\u00e1ve najpr\u00edjemnej\u0161ej ceste z Arequipy. Na stanici n\u00e1s mal \u010daka\u0165 taxik\u00e1r z rezervovan\u00e9ho hostela, namiesto neho n\u00e1s v\u0161ak \u010dakalo dvesto in\u00fdch taxik\u00e1rov a nadh\u00e1\u0148a\u010dov. Ubytovacie zariadenia si tu osvojili zvyk \u010dak\u00e1va\u0165 svojich host\u00ed na stanici, preto\u017ee konkurencia je tu absol\u00fatne vra\u017eedn\u00e1 a neraz sa st\u00e1va, \u017ee n\u00e1hodne privolan\u00fd taxik\u00e1r privedie zdezorientovan\u00e9ho turistu do \u00faplne in\u00e9ho hotela, pre ktor\u00fd pracuje. Cuzco je v\u010faka Machu Picchu turistick\u00e1 destin\u00e1cia \u010d\u00edslo jeden na tomto kontinente a treba si uvedomi\u0165, \u017ee veci tu be\u017eia trochu in\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom; treba sa ma\u0165 neust\u00e1le na pozore.<\/p>\n

\"Cuzco\"<\/a>Samozrejme, taxik\u00e1r z ulice n\u00e1s par\u00e1dne o\u0161mekol, ale to nie je n\u00e1\u0161 probl\u00e9m. Odvoz do hotela sme mali pris\u013e\u00faben\u00fd a hoci sa na n\u00e1s vyka\u0161\u013eali, hne\u010f po pr\u00edchode sme po\u017eiadali o vr\u00e1tenie cestovn\u00e9ho. V na\u0161om hosteli s\u00fa \u013eudia v\u00f4bec ak\u00fdsi pomal\u00ed, e\u0161te\u017ee si \u010dakanie na ra\u0148ajky ,m\u00f4\u017eeme spr\u00edjemni\u0165 kr\u00e1snym v\u00fdh\u013eadom na mesto. Nach\u00e1dzame sa na strmom kopci, kdesi v \u00fazkych starobyl\u00fdch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch d\u00e1vnej \u0161panielskej kol\u00f3nie. Pod nami je cel\u00e9 n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 Cuzco so svojimi historick\u00fdmi budovami, kostolmi a ve\u013ekou katedr\u00e1lou. Neviem pre\u010do, ale akosi mi pripom\u00edna Bansk\u00fa \u0160tiavnicu.<\/p>\n

Pred pr\u00edchodom \u0160panielov bolo Cuzco hlavn\u00fdm mestom ve\u013ekej inkskej r\u00ed\u0161e. Inksk\u00e9 ruiny s\u00fa vskutku porozhadzovan\u00e9 v\u0161ade v jeho okol\u00ed a nieko\u013eko mohutn\u00fdch, obdivuhodne prec\u00edznych stien sa zachovalo i priamo v uliciach. Po tom, ako Eur\u00f3pania Cuzco dobyli a potla\u010dili aj posledn\u00e9 inksk\u00e9 povstania, v\u0161ak r\u00fdchlo stratilo na politickom v\u00fdzname, hoci dodnes zost\u00e1va kult\u00farnym a n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdm centrom andskej n\u00e1hornej planiny.<\/p>\n

\"Hlavn\u00e1<\/a>V Cuzco sme sa akur\u00e1t na\u010das stretli s Brianom – zrejme posledn\u00fdkr\u00e1t na tejto ceste. Brian sa pr\u00e1ve vr\u00e1til z presl\u00e1venej Cesty Inkov (tzv. Inka Trail), trojd\u0148ovej t\u00fary po hor\u00e1ch, \u00fastiacej na Machu Picchu. Je pln\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitkov a my mu m\u00f4\u017eeme len z\u00e1vidie\u0165, preto\u017ee na t\u00faru sa treba prihl\u00e1si\u0165 mnoho mesiacov dopredu a akosi sme to nestihli. S Brianom to akur\u00e1t nejako vy\u0161lo, \u017ee som pr\u00e1ve ukon\u010dil svoju antibiotick\u00fa t\u00faru a m\u00f4\u017eeme sko\u010di\u0165 na pivo do Irish pubu. Mo\u017eno sa \u010dudujete, ale Cuzco, to s\u00fa stovky re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed a barov, kluby, nonstop \u017e\u00fary. Irish puby s\u00fa tu hne\u010f tri…<\/p>\n

\"V<\/a>Brian teda zajtra odch\u00e1dza, najprv do \u010cile a potom pokra\u010duje vo svojej ceste okolo sveta smer Austr\u00e1lia a ju\u017en\u00e1 \u00c1zia. Str\u00e1vili sme spolu na ceste takmer dva mesiace. Nemo\u017eno ani doda\u0165, \u017ee v dobrom i zlom, preto\u017ee s t\u00fdmto pr\u00edjemn\u00fdm, tolerantn\u00fdm \u010dlovekom to bolo v\u017edy len v dobrom. Som presved\u010den\u00fd, \u017ee Bol\u00edvia, ktor\u00fa sme precestovali v trojici kr\u00ed\u017eom-kr\u00e1\u017eom, by nebola celkom ono bez Brianovho typicky \u00edrskeho, pohodov\u00e9ho pr\u00edstupu a nadh\u013eadu. 27. augusta sa l\u00fa\u010dime a po dlhom \u010dase ost\u00e1vame op\u00e4\u0165 sami.<\/p>\n

\"Inksk\u00e9<\/a>Pomaly sa pripravujeme na Machu Picchu. Dosta\u0165 sa na toto miesto je nechutn\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkom fungovania monopolov, nehanebne zneu\u017e\u00edvaj\u00facich fakt, \u017ee jedin\u00fd sp\u00f4sob ako sa tam dosta\u0165 je \u017eeleznica. Cesta z Cuzco trv\u00e1 tri hodiny, za l\u00edstok zaplat\u00edte… 75 USD! L\u00edstky s\u00fa pritom vypredan\u00e9 nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed dopredu a \u010dasto nem\u00e1te in\u00fa mo\u017enos\u0165, ako k\u00fapi\u0165 si prv\u00fa triedu za viac ako 100 USD. T\u00fdmto sa zdieranie turistov len za\u010d\u00edna. A\u017e nesk\u00f4r, pri Machu Picchu zist\u00edme, ak\u00e9 horibiln\u00e9 sumy treba plati\u0165 za ka\u017ed\u00fa hl\u00fapos\u0165.<\/p>\n

\"V<\/a>Hne\u010f v prv\u00fd de\u0148 n\u00e1\u0161ho pr\u00edchodu do Cuzco teda utek\u00e1m na stanicu k\u00fapi\u0165 l\u00edstky. St\u00edham to presne p\u00e4\u0165 min\u00fat pred zavret\u00edm, na vlak za dva dni s\u00fa u\u017e len posledn\u00e9 tri l\u00edstky. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee som mal \u0161\u0165astie. Peru\u00e1nsku \u017eleznicu mienime podpori\u0165 tak m\u00e1lo, ako sa len d\u00e1 a tak nenast\u00fapime u\u017e v Cuzco, ale v poslednej dedine, do ktorej e\u0161te vedie cesta. L\u00edstok stoj\u00ed “len” 45 USD. Pre porovnanie, cesta vlakom bude trva\u0165 poldruha hodiny a rovnako dlho p\u00f4jdeme i oby\u010dajn\u00fdm autobusom, ktor\u00fd n\u00e1s vyjde 1,50 USD.<\/p>\n

\"Mesto<\/a>Posledn\u00fdch p\u00e1r dn\u00ed pred odchodom do Machu Picchu spozn\u00e1vame kr\u00e1sne star\u00e9 ulice mesta Cuzco, ochutn\u00e1vame re\u0161taur\u00e1cie kuch\u00fd\u0148 z cel\u00e9ho sveta, zab\u00edjame \u010das na internete. S\u00fa tu tis\u00edce turistov a treba poveda\u0165, \u017ee je to \u00faplne in\u00fd typ \u013eud\u00ed, ne\u017e na ak\u00fdch sme v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou zvyknut\u00ed. Mnoh\u00ed sem prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa doslova na p\u00e1r dn\u00ed priamo spoza p\u00edsac\u00edch stolov svojich kancel\u00e1ri\u00ed a po Machu Picchu sa hne\u010f vracaj\u00fa domov. Globalizovan\u00e1 masov\u00e1 turistika vo svoje naj\u010distej\u0161ej forme. Pr\u00e1zdniny, napl\u00e1novan\u00e9 p\u00e4\u0165 rokov dopredu, eur\u00f3pske hotely a spomienkov\u00e9 tri\u010dko od cestovnej agent\u00fary. Exotick\u00e9 Peru uvid\u00ed v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina t\u00fdchto \u013eud\u00ed len spoza okien klimatizovan\u00fdch hotelov a autobusov. Ak len trochu chcete, v\u00f4bec si nev\u0161imnete, \u017ee nie ste v Eur\u00f3pe. My s Justynkou sa im len smejeme, pouli\u010dn\u00fdm profesion\u00e1lnym otravova\u010dom vyplazujeme jazyk a fot\u00edme mesto Cuzco zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch mo\u017en\u00fdch uhlov.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Peru<\/a> \u00bb Cuzco<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Do Cuzco prich\u00e1dzame 26. augusta skoro r\u00e1no, po celono\u010dnej, nie pr\u00e1ve najpr\u00edjemnej\u0161ej ceste z Arequipy. Na stanici n\u00e1s mal \u010daka\u0165 taxik\u00e1r z rezervovan\u00e9ho hostela, namiesto neho n\u00e1s v\u0161ak \u010dakalo dvesto in\u00fdch taxik\u00e1rov a nadh\u00e1\u0148a\u010dov. Ubytovacie zariadenia si tu osvojili zvyk \u010dak\u00e1va\u0165 svojich host\u00ed na stanici, preto\u017ee konkurencia je tu absol\u00fatne vra\u017eedn\u00e1 a neraz sa st\u00e1va,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,127,83,401,89,400],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=245"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8116,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/245\/revisions\/8116"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=245"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=245"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=245"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}