{"id":236,"date":"2007-08-19T20:51:39","date_gmt":"2007-08-19T18:51:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=236"},"modified":"2019-01-20T10:39:51","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T08:39:51","slug":"jazero-titicaca-bolivia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/jazero-titicaca-bolivia","title":{"rendered":"Jazero Titicaca – Bol\u00edvia"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"El<\/a>15. augusta 2007 sa no\u010dn\u00fdm autobusom zo Santa Cruz op\u00e4\u0165 vraciame do hlavn\u00e9ho mesta La Paz. Doba\u013eujeme si veci, ktor\u00e9 sme pred dvomi t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ami nechali v na\u0161om hosteli a pres\u00favame sa do nesl\u00e1vnej \u0161tvrte Cementerio, z ktorej odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa mnoh\u00e9 medzimestsk\u00e9 spoje. Je pova\u017eovan\u00e1 za najnebezpe\u010dnej\u0161iu v La Paz, kv\u00f4li mnoh\u00fdm \u00fatokom na turistov. Pred nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi rokmi tu zlo\u010dineck\u00fd gang uniesol p\u00e1rik rak\u00faskych cestovate\u013eov, ktor\u00fdch dlh\u00e9 t\u00fd\u017edne dr\u017eali v zajat\u00ed a denne s ich kreditn\u00fdmi kartami vy\u0165ahovali ve\u013ek\u00e9 pe\u0148a\u017en\u00e9 hotovosti. Ke\u010f zdroj vyschol, oboch mlad\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed zavra\u017edili.<\/div>\n

My sme opustili La Paz bez probl\u00e9mov. Mierime na hranice Bol\u00edvie, ku svetozn\u00e1memu jazeru Titicaca. Jazero le\u017e\u00ed vo v\u00fd\u0161ke 3.800 m.n.m. na hraniciach s Peru. Odjak\u017eiva zohr\u00e1valo d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fa \u00falohu v n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdch predstav\u00e1ch miestnych civiliz\u00e1ci\u00ed, a to u\u017e pred pr\u00edchodom Inkov. Samotn\u00ed Inkovia verili, \u017ee po\u010diatok ich n\u00e1roda le\u017e\u00ed pr\u00e1ve tu, rovnako ako s\u00eddlo uctievan\u00e9ho boha slnka.<\/p>\n

\"Mestsk\u00e9<\/a>Jazero je obrovsk\u00e9. Jeho d\u013a\u017eka presahuje 200 km, najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ia nameran\u00e1 h\u013abka viac ako 450 m. Vody jazera neraz zaplavuj\u00fa cel\u00e9 ve\u013ek\u00e9 \u00fazemie v tejto \u010dasti n\u00e1hornej planiny, inokedy r\u00fdchlo klesaj\u00fa a raz mo\u017eno odhalia \u010fal\u0161ie v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 pamiatky starobyl\u00fdch kult\u00far, ktor\u00fdch existencia sa tu predpoklad\u00e1. V meste\u010dku Copacabana na brehu jazera sa op\u00e4\u0165 zv\u00edtame s Brianom, ktor\u00fd sem pricestoval pred nami. Nazajtra pl\u00e1nujeme v\u00fdlet na Ostrov slnka (Isla del Sol), kde s\u00eddli hlavn\u00fd inksk\u00fd boh a nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa sa tam i zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 archeologick\u00e9 n\u00e1lezisk\u00e1. V re\u0161taur\u00e1cii Brian ochutn\u00e1 prv\u00e9ho miestneho pstruha a my vegetari\u00e1nsku ve\u010deru, ktor\u00fa Justyna vz\u00e1p\u00e4t\u00ed odovzd\u00e1 nasp\u00e4\u0165 v nieko\u013ek\u00fdch n\u00e1hlych z\u00e1chvatoch nevo\u013enosti. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee probl\u00e9my s\u00fa op\u00e4\u0165 kdesi bl\u00edzko n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n

R\u00e1no sa v\u0161ak zob\u00fadzame a v\u0161etko vyzer\u00e1 by\u0165 v poriadku. Vyr\u00e1\u017eame teda po brehu jazera okolo kr\u00e1snych dediniek, pol\u00ed a malebn\u00fdch z\u00e1tok s ryb\u00e1rskymi pr\u00edstavmi. Kr\u00e1\u010dame nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn; \u013eudia s\u00fa pr\u00edvetiv\u00ed, v ka\u017edej dedine \u017eobr\u00fa deti a prid\u00e1vaj\u00fa sa k nim dospel\u00ed v snahe odviez\u0165 n\u00e1s na ne\u010falek\u00fd ostrov. Nikoho z nich si nev\u0161\u00edmame, deti posielame najes\u0165 sa k mam\u00e1m a ke\u010f\u017ee vonku je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 po\u010dasie, nestoj\u00edme ani o skr\u00e1tenie n\u00e1\u0161ho v\u00fdletu lo\u010fou. Tesne pred na\u0161im cie\u013eom stret\u00e1vame skupinku chalanov, jeden z nich m\u00e1 nanajv\u00fd\u0161 podozriv\u00fd pr\u00edzvuk. Neisto sa ho p\u00fdtam na p\u00f4vod a spozn\u00e1vam t\u00fdm \u010cecha Jozefa, ktor\u00fd u\u017e nieko\u013eko rokov \u017eije v \u0160panielsku a tvrdohlavo sa so mnou rozpr\u00e1va \u010distou sloven\u010dinou.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Jozef cestuje po kontinente u\u017e nieko\u013eko t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov a jeho pobyt, ako i rozpo\u010det sa ch\u00fdlia ku koncu. V s\u00fa\u010dasnosti \u017eije u\u017e len z neuverite\u013en\u00fdch 30 Bolivianos na de\u0148 (cc\u00e1. 200 SK). Len pre porovnanie, my dvaja sa len horko-\u0165a\u017eko zmest\u00edme do r\u00e9\u017eie 400 Bs. Jozef presp\u00e1va u\u017e len vonku a kupuje jednoduch\u00fa stravu v obchodoch. V\u0161etko sa d\u00e1 – d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9 je ma\u0165 gur\u00e1\u017e a ono neodolate\u013en\u00e9 nutkanie uvidie\u0165 svet \u010falej za humnami.<\/p>\n

Napokon v\u0161etci prich\u00e1dzame do dediny Yampupata, zjedn\u00e1vame si tu transport na ostrov. L\u00fa\u010dime sa s Jozefom a jeho kump\u00e1nmi, ktor\u00ed mieria do inej \u010dasti a miestny ryb\u00e1r n\u00e1s troch s\u013e\u00fabi previes\u0165 na svojej veslici za rozumn\u00fa cenu. Prech\u00e1dzame cez n\u00e1dhern\u00e9, jagav\u00e9 modr\u00e9 jazero; m\u00ed\u0148ame \u010fal\u0161\u00ed kultov\u00fd ostrov Isla de la Luna (Mesa\u010dn\u00fd ostrov) a v jeho pozad\u00ed sa t\u00fd\u010dia obrovsk\u00e9 \u0161es\u0165tis\u00edcov\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty z okolia La Paz, pokryt\u00e9 snehom. Ryb\u00e1r s\u00e1m od seba zap\u00edna motor a na konci cesty bude od n\u00e1s za to \u017eiada\u0165 pr\u00eddavok. V\u00f4bec n\u00e1s to neprekvapilo a rad za radom ho vysmejeme. Toto miesto, pokia\u013e ide o vz\u0165ah dom\u00e1cich k turistom, je zatia\u013e najskazenej\u0161ie z celej Bol\u00edvie.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Sna\u017eia sa n\u00e1s tu dobehn\u00fa\u0165 na ka\u017edom kroku. Deti \u017eobr\u00fa neuverite\u013ene nechutn\u00fdm a otravn\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom, v\u0161etky opakuj\u00fa nau\u010den\u00fa b\u00e1sni\u010dku o hlade, biede at\u010f. Slov\u00e1 i v\u00fdrazy tv\u00e1re maj\u00fa v\u017edy rovnak\u00e9, akoby v\u0161etky absolvovali v \u0161kole lacn\u00fd marketingov\u00fd r\u00fdchlokurz \u017eobrania. Ke\u010f si rob\u00edte fotky, str\u010dia sa v\u00e1m pred objekt\u00edv i so svojou pra\u0161ivou lamou a e\u0161te za to \u017eiadaj\u00fa peniaze. Dospel\u00ed od v\u00e1s bud\u00fa vym\u00e1ha\u0165 ak\u00e9si nezmyseln\u00e9 vstupn\u00e9 za ak\u00fako\u013evek kopu kame\u0148ov, na ktor\u00fa si sadnete, alebo len tak, za pr\u00e1vo pokra\u010dova\u0165 v ceste.<\/p>\n

Takto vyzeraj\u00fa \u013eudia, celkom skazen\u00ed turistick\u00fdm ruchom. Ak som sa v nie\u010dom v Bol\u00edvii utvrdil, je to presved\u010denie, \u017ee nem\u00e1m d\u00e1va\u0165 peniaze \u017eobr\u00e1kom. Niektor\u00ed z nich to naozaj potrebuj\u00fa, ale e\u0161te viacer\u00ed \u017eobr\u00fa z povolania. Nau\u010dila ma to braz\u00edlska favela, slum. \u017dobr\u00e1ci maj\u00fa mal\u00fa \u0161ancu, \u017ee raz sa nau\u010dia robi\u0165 nie\u010do poriadne. Sedie\u0165 na ulici s plechovkou je pr\u00edli\u0161 \u013eahk\u00e9. Ka\u017ed\u00fd idiotsk\u00fd turista, ktor\u00fd d\u00e1 t\u00fdmto sopliakom mince \u010di cukr\u00edky a ich rodi\u010dom zaplat\u00ed bez reptania ak\u00e9si absurdn\u00e9 m\u00fdto, im iba potvrdzuje, \u017ee tento sp\u00f4sob z\u00e1robku je t\u00e1 naj\u013eah\u0161ia a najpr\u00edjemnej\u0161ia cesta \u017eivotom. Za nieko\u013eko rokov u\u017e ni\u010d in\u00e9 ani nebud\u00fa vedie\u0165 robi\u0165. Svoje peniaze ove\u013ea rad\u0161ej nech\u00e1m d\u00f4vernej organiz\u00e1cii, ktor\u00e1 sa star\u00e1 o ich pomoc a prev\u00fdchovu.<\/p>\n

\"Plavba<\/a>Na Slne\u010dnom ostrove je mno\u017estvo penzi\u00f3nov a re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed, ka\u017ed\u00fd z dom\u00e1cich si chce odtrhn\u00fa\u0165 svoje s\u00fasto. Denne sem pr\u00fadia stovky turistov, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z nich cestuje v izolovan\u00fdch skupin\u00e1ch od atrakcie ku atrakcii, o skuto\u010dnom \u017eivote okolo nich, cen\u00e1ch a mentalite dom\u00e1cich nemaj\u00fa ani po\u0148atie (a ani ich to zrejme nezauj\u00edma). V podnikoch ich tu teda nemilosrdne o\u0161klb\u00fa a e\u0161te za to dostan\u00fa sprepitn\u00e9. Majitelia penzi\u00f3nov sa k v\u00e1m pri vstupe spr\u00e1vaj\u00fa ako k najlep\u0161\u00edm priate\u013eom a v de\u0148 odchodu po zaplaten\u00ed v\u00e1s s hukotom kopn\u00fa do zadku. Obsluha je pomal\u00e1, neuverite\u013ene tup\u00e1 a arogantn\u00e1. Ako hovor\u00edm, je to jedna z najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch a najhor\u0161\u00edch turistick\u00fdch atrakci\u00ed, ak\u00e9 som v Bol\u00edvii za\u017eil.<\/p>\n

Hne\u010f po pr\u00edchode na ostrov ma chyt\u00ed \u013eahk\u00e1 hor\u00fa\u010dka a v \u010dase, ke\u010f Justyna s Brianom ve\u010deraj\u00fa, ston\u00e1m v posteli medzi z\u00e1chvatmi hna\u010dky. Bolo to pr\u00e1ve dnes r\u00e1no, ke\u010f som pri ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch poklopkal po stole a skon\u0161tatoval, \u017ee zatia\u013e som v Bol\u00edvii e\u0161te nemal \u017eal\u00fado\u010dn\u00e9 probl\u00e9my, na rozdiel od ostatn\u00fdch. Ke\u010f sa mi stav v noci zhor\u0161\u00ed a na druh\u00fd de\u0148 je v\u0161etko bez zmien, u\u017e viem, \u017ee to nebude len chv\u00ed\u013ekov\u00e1 nevo\u013enos\u0165. Justyna a Brian id\u00fa obdivova\u0165 ruiny inkskej civiliz\u00e1cie na druh\u00fd koniec ostrova, ja le\u017e\u00edm v \u013eahk\u00fdch mr\u00e1kot\u00e1ch a \u010dak\u00e1m, kedy ma upratova\u010dka vyhod\u00ed z izby. Justyna prosila pred odchodom spr\u00e1vky\u0148u, aby ma vzh\u013eadom na m\u00f4j stav nechala v izbe k\u00fdm sa nevr\u00e1tia (penzi\u00f3n je celkom pr\u00e1zdny), no t\u00fa nezauj\u00edmaj\u00fa probl\u00e9my jej host\u00ed po zaplaten\u00ed za posledn\u00fa noc. Ke\u010f za\u010dne nahnevane fu\u010da\u0165 okolo dver\u00ed, viem, \u017ee je najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u010das vypadn\u00fa\u0165. Onedlho sa vracia i Justa s Brianom a v\u00fdletnou lo\u010fou prich\u00e1dzame sp\u00e4\u0165 do Copacabana.<\/p>\n

\"Sv\u00e4tenie<\/a>Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 odtia\u013eto radi odch\u00e1dzame, stihneme si e\u0161te pozrie\u0165 sv\u00e4tenie automobilov na n\u00e1mest\u00ed pri katedr\u00e1le. Je to vraj lacnej\u0161ie, ako poistenie a okolit\u00e9 ulice s\u00fa tak pln\u00e9 vy\u010da\u010dkan\u00fdch \u00e1ut, okolo ktor\u00fdch prech\u00e1dza k\u0148az r\u00fdchlos\u0165ou svetla, krop\u00ed ich vodou a ak\u00e1si babka dokon\u010duje pohansk\u00fa \u010das\u0165 obradu, s obetami a zakl\u00ednan\u00edm (v\u0161etko z\u00e1le\u017e\u00ed od toho, ko\u013eko ste zaplatili).<\/p>\n

Copacabana pri jazere Titicaca bola na\u0161a posledn\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka v Bol\u00edvii: str\u00e1vili sme tu presne \u0161es\u0165 t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov v dobrom i zlom. Ak\u00e1 je Bol\u00edvia? N\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee tu sme uvideli to najkraj\u0161ie i najhor\u0161ie z n\u00e1\u0161ho cestovania. Jedna krajina, dva celkom odli\u0161n\u00e9 svety – chladn\u00e1, hol\u00e1 a zaostal\u00e1 n\u00e1horn\u00e1 planina s nezabudnute\u013en\u00fdmi horami a p\u00fa\u0161\u0165ami. Druh\u00fd svet, to je zelen\u00e1 a hor\u00faca Amazonka, jej pohodov\u00ed \u013eudia v ospal\u00fdch dedink\u00e1ch. Bol\u00edvia ma presved\u010dila, \u017ee hovori\u0165 o interkult\u00farnej tolerancii je niekedy nezmyseln\u00e9 alebo dokonca kontraprodukt\u00edvne, ale nau\u010dil som sa mnoho o tom, ako sa k tot\u00e1lne odli\u0161n\u00fdm \u013eu\u010fom spr\u00e1va\u0165. V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, nav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165 ju\u017en\u00fa Ameriku a neuvidie\u0165 Bol\u00edviu je \u010dist\u00e9 \u0161ialenstvo. Ak ste to predsa len urobili a na\u010falej tvrd\u00edte, \u017ee tento kontinent pozn\u00e1te, ste nehanebn\u00fd luh\u00e1r. OK, d\u00e1vam v\u00e1m posledn\u00fa \u0161ancu. K\u00fapte si l\u00edstok do Bol\u00edvie, nau\u010dte sa zop\u00e1r drsn\u00fdch d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fdch viet na pre\u017eitie a m\u00f4\u017eete vyrazi\u0165.<\/p>\n

\"Ostrov<\/a>Do Bol\u00edvie sa raz ur\u010dite r\u00e1d vr\u00e1tim. Ak to bude o 20 rokov, mo\u017eno sa tam dovtedy ve\u013ea nezmen\u00ed, ale viem st\u00e1le o mno\u017estv\u00e1ch miest, ktor\u00e9 sme doteraz nestihli a o ktor\u00e9 by som sa ner\u00e1d ukr\u00e1til. Mrz\u00ed n\u00e1s oboch, \u017ee sa n\u00e1m nepodarilo stretn\u00fa\u0165 tro\u0161ku viac zauj\u00edmav\u00fdch Bol\u00edvij\u010danov, aby sme pochopili trochu hlb\u0161ie t\u00fato r\u00e1zovit\u00fa, zvl\u00e1\u0161tnu krajinu. Na druhej strane, t\u00fdch zop\u00e1r, ktor\u00fdch sme spoznali, n\u00e1m pomohlo pochopi\u0165, ako ve\u013emi sa skuto\u010dn\u00fd \u017eivot a spr\u00e1vanie miestnych \u013eud\u00ed l\u00ed\u0161i od toho, \u010do za\u017e\u00edva priemern\u00fd turista pri svojom povrchnom, letmom priereze atrakciami bol\u00edvijskej masovej turistiky.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb Jazero Titicaca – Bol\u00edvia<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ostrov slnka, centrum inkskej r\u00ed\u0161e. Na pevnine zatia\u013e star\u00e9 \u017eeny zbieraj\u00fa quinoa a nad andsk\u00fdmi \u0161t\u00edtmi pomaly zapad\u00e1 slnko.
\nTakto vyzer\u00e1 koniec na\u0161ej dvojmesa\u010dnej cesty cez Bol\u00edviu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4653,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,94,403,83,401,89],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/236"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=236"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/236\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8119,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/236\/revisions\/8119"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4653"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=236"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=236"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=236"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}