{"id":223,"date":"2007-08-16T18:51:51","date_gmt":"2007-08-16T16:51:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=223"},"modified":"2019-01-20T10:40:42","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T08:40:42","slug":"la-messeta-prales-tam-na-kopci","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/la-messeta-prales-tam-na-kopci","title":{"rendered":"La Meseta, prales tam na kopci"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3384&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_left alignleft\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3385&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>8. augusta 2007 op\u00e4\u0165 vyr\u00e1\u017eame z t\u00e1bora, znovu prech\u00e1dzame rannou savanou a na po\u013enej kri\u017eovatke na jej konci tentoraz odb\u00e1\u010dame v\u013eavo. Na\u0161im cie\u013eom je zauj\u00edmav\u00fd pr\u00edrodn\u00fd \u00fatvar, n\u00e1horn\u00e1 stolov\u00e1 rovina zvan\u00e1 <em>La Meseta<\/em>. U\u017e teraz sa nejasne rysuje v dia\u013eke jej za\u010diatok. Vyrast\u00e1 z hlbokej d\u017eungle, na jej ploskom vrchole sa nach\u00e1dza \u010fal\u0161\u00ed prales, kombinovan\u00fd so savanou. La Meseta sa odtia\u013eto tiahne \u010fal\u0161ie stovky kilometrov a\u017e ku braz\u00edlskym hraniciam.<\/p>\n<p>Po savane sa vracia d\u017eung\u013ea a o nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn sa u\u017e na pokraji s\u00edl \u0161tver\u00e1me po \u00fabo\u010d\u00ed Mesety. Op\u00e4\u0165 sme v n\u00e1dhernom, zomknutom pralese. Cesti\u010dka je tak\u00e1 \u00fazka, \u017ee neraz sa cez h\u00fa\u0161tiny takmer ani ned\u00e1 s na\u0161imi ve\u013ek\u00fdmi ruksakmi prepcha\u0165. Popoludn\u00ed kone\u010dne doraz\u00edme na \u00fap\u00e4tie n\u00e1hornej roviny. Je tu rie\u010dka, ktor\u00e1 sa vyn\u00e1ra zo zeme a o dvadsa\u0165 metrov \u010falej v nej zase mizne. Je tu miesto na mal\u00fd t\u00e1bor a s\u00fa tu star\u00e9 zn\u00e1me v\u010dely a muchy v cel\u00fdch rojoch. Okam\u017eite sa na n\u00e1s vrhn\u00fa. Zatia\u013e \u010do v\u010dely sa pribli\u017euj\u00fa sk\u00f4r opatrne a \u017eihadlom n\u00e1s po\u010dastuj\u00fa rad\u0161ej v\u00fdnimo\u010dne, muchy sa tla\u010dia do v\u0161etk\u00fdch telesn\u00fdch otvorov. Situ\u00e1cia sa st\u00e1va neznesite\u013en\u00e1; zaklad\u00e1me ohe\u0148 s hust\u00fdm dymom a a\u017e potom m\u00f4\u017eeme rozlo\u017ei\u0165 stany.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3378&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_right\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3379&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Do zotmenia je e\u0161te nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn, rozhodneme sa vypadn\u00fa\u0165 od hmyzu na ne\u010falek\u00fd kopec. Vy\u0161tver\u00e1me sa takmer na vrchol Mesety a pozorujeme \u00fa\u017easn\u00fd, pokojn\u00fd z\u00e1pad slnka. Pod nami je nekone\u010dn\u00fd hust\u00fd koberec pralesa, mizn\u00faci v dia\u013eke v hml\u00e1ch. Pred chv\u00ed\u013eou sme vypla\u0161ili obrovsk\u00e9ho tap\u00edra s pyskom mravene\u010dn\u00edka, ktor\u00fd hanblivo utiekol sk\u00f4r, ne\u017e som stihol vytiahnu\u0165 fotoapar\u00e1t. Vid\u00edme v\u0161ak odtia\u013eto savanu, zospodu sa oz\u00fdvaj\u00fa \u0161kreky in\u00fdch preb\u00fadzaj\u00facich sa zvierat. Bez slova, \u00faplne ohromen\u00ed sa vraciame nasp\u00e4\u0165. V \u00fastrety n\u00e1m prich\u00e1dza vystra\u0161en\u00e1 Balb\u00edna, ktor\u00e1 ostala v t\u00e1bore. Mali sme n\u00e1v\u0161tevu. T\u00e1bor \u00faplne zbl\u00edzka obch\u00e1dzala puma, obrovsk\u00e1 ma\u010dkovit\u00e1 \u0161elma, ktor\u00e1 by pokojne nepohrdla \u013eudsk\u00fdm m\u00e4som. Balb\u00edna na\u0161\u0165astie nestratila rozvahu a rozd\u00fachala ohnisko. Pastor n\u00e1m rozpr\u00e1va, ako ho tu pred rokom pri t\u00fare s jedn\u00fdm turistom napadla dvakr\u00e1t t\u00e1 ist\u00e1 puma. Ako-tak sa ubr\u00e1nili ma\u010detami a palicou a pri \u00fastupe do Los Fierros ju e\u0161te \u010falekoh\u013eadom zazreli, ako ich stopu pomaly nasleduje a\u017e do savany, kde si napokon sadla, akoby rozm\u00fd\u0161\u013eala nad inou koris\u0165ou.<\/p>\n<p>Na na\u0161e prekvapenie sa onedlho z temnoty vynoria postavy. S\u00fa to zmienen\u00ed \u0160v\u00e9di; vtla\u010dia sa do n\u00e1\u0161ho stiesnen\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora a za\u010dn\u00fa si stava\u0165 stany. Keby sme boli chrap\u00fani ako ich sprievodca, por\u00fa\u010dali by sme ich odtia\u013eto rovnak\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom. Skupinka sa vracia z Mesety; s priate\u013esk\u00fdmi \u0160v\u00e9dmi si vymie\u0148ame sk\u00fasenosti. S\u0165a\u017euj\u00fa sa, \u017ee agent\u00fara ich okr\u00e1da na jedle a ich sprievodca je vraj tot\u00e1lny idiot. To u\u017e ale my vieme. O necel\u00fa hodinu ho n\u00e1jdem k\u00fapa\u0165 sa i so svojou \u017eenou, samozrejme so \u0161amp\u00f3nom, priamo pri vyvieraj\u00facej rieke. Desa\u0165 metrov ni\u017e\u0161ie si z nej v\u0161etci \u013eudia naberaj\u00fa jedin\u00fa pitn\u00fa vodu v okol\u00ed. Nad\u00e1vam mu z pln\u00e9ho hrdla najvulg\u00e1rnej\u0161ie nad\u00e1vky, ak\u00e9 pozn\u00e1m v oboch jazykoch, prid\u00e1vaj\u00fa sa \u0160v\u00e9di. Chlap\u00edk m\u00e1 dos\u0165 tup\u00fd ksicht a za opaskom obrovsk\u00fa d\u00fdku z najlacnej\u0161ieho supermarketu. Vyzer\u00e1 ako karikat\u00fara do ak\u00e9hosi odpadov\u00e9ho filmu; bez slova vypadne do svojho stanu a viac nevylezie. Jazierko, v ktorom sa k\u00fapal, je pokryt\u00e9 penou a vrstvou mydla, pri\u010dom voda odtek\u00e1 len c\u00edcerkom. Bohu\u017eia\u013e, kv\u00f4li jedin\u00e9mu tupcovi budeme v\u0161etci musie\u0165 \u010disti\u0165 vodu tabletkami aj tu.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3396&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_left\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3397&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 skoro r\u00e1no sa l\u00fa\u010dime so \u0160v\u00e9dmi. Oni odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa do Los Fierros a domov, my tu nech\u00e1vame svoj t\u00e1bor a na\u013eahko vystupujeme na Mesetu. Op\u00e4\u0165 sme tu \u00faplne sami. Tam hore n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 savanovit\u00e1 tr\u00e1vnat\u00e1 rovina, siahaj\u00faca po horizont. Zboku sa tiahne d\u017eung\u013ea. Kr\u00e1\u010dame nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn do h\u013abky Mesety, a\u017e k rie\u010dke a n\u00e1dhern\u00e9mu jazierku, ukryt\u00e9mu pod palmami a kvitn\u00facimi kr\u00edkmi. Je hor\u00faci de\u0148, v\u0161etci sa radostne k\u00fapeme a zvedav\u00e9 rybky v jazierku n\u00e1s hryz\u00fa na zadkoch.<\/p>\n<p>Pri n\u00e1vrate z jazera n\u00e1s pastor zavedie bokom od d\u017eungle, na tr\u00e1vnat\u00fa plochu nieko\u013eko sto metrov od hranice lesa. Najprv nach\u00e1dzame zhrdzaven\u00e9 zbytky vraku lietadla, kus \u010falej, v pomaly zarastaj\u00facej jame, &#8230;zhrdzaven\u00fa motorku. Toto je druh\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 pr\u00edbehu o N\u00e1rodnom parku Noel Kempff Mercado, temn\u00e1 a vytes\u0148ovan\u00e1, \u010dosi, o \u010dom nen\u00e1jdete zmienku v pr\u00edrodovedeckom m\u00fazeu.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Po obrovskom t\u00e1bore narcos neostala takmer nijak\u00e1 stopa. Zabudnut\u00e1 motorka a z\u00e1kop ostre\u013eova\u010dov\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3406&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_right\" title=\"Po obrovskom t\u00e1bore narcos neostala takmer nijak\u00e1 stopa. Zabudnut\u00e1 motorka a z\u00e1kop ostre\u013eova\u010dov\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3407&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"Po obrovskom t\u00e1bore narcos neostala takmer nijak\u00e1 stopa. Zabudnut\u00e1 motorka a z\u00e1kop ostre\u013eova\u010dov\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Viete, pre\u010do sa toto miesto vol\u00e1 Noel Kempff Mercado? Park dostal meno po v\u00fdznamnom bol\u00edvijskom pr\u00edrodovedcovi. Nie je to v\u0161ak kv\u00f4li jeho pr\u00e1ci a objavom, nech boli akoko\u013evek d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9. Park nenesie jeho meno kv\u00f4li jeho bohat\u00e9mu \u017eivotu, ale kv\u00f4li jeho n\u00e1silnej, zbyto\u010dnej smrti sotva nieko\u013eko kilometrov od miesta, kde pr\u00e1ve stoj\u00edme a fotografujeme motorku. Bohu\u017eia\u013e, toto n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 panensk\u00e9 \u00fazemie sl\u00fa\u017eilo v minulosti koka\u00ednovej mafii. To, na \u010do sa teraz pozer\u00e1me, s\u00fa posledn\u00e9 d\u00f4kazy obrovsk\u00fdch, neuverite\u013ene zorganizovan\u00fdch t\u00e1borov s laborat\u00f3riami, sl\u00fa\u017eiace na v\u00fdrobu a distrib\u00faciu koka\u00ednu. Ak v\u00e1s zauj\u00edma, <a id=\"d7g8\" title=\"Pre\u010do Noel Kempff?\" href=\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/Poznamky%20k%20svetu%20za%20pohladnicou\/Kempff.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">pre\u010do pr\u00e1ve Noel Kempff<\/a><a title=\"Pre\u010do Noel Kempff?\" href=\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/Poznamky%20k%20svetu%20za%20pohladnicou\/Kempff.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">, kliknite sem<\/a>, na \u010dl\u00e1nok z rubriky <span style=\"color: #993366;\"><a title=\"Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/poznamky-k-svetu-za-pohladnicou\" target=\"_blank\"><span style=\"color: #993366;\">Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/span><\/a><\/span>.<\/p>\n<p>Vraciame sa do spodn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora pod Mesetou. Pastor n\u00e1m mnoho vysvet\u013euje o okolitej pr\u00edrode, zvierat\u00e1ch a \u017eivote v d\u017eungli. M\u00e1me ho v\u0161etci \u010doraz rad\u0161ej, zl\u00fd pocit zo za\u010diatku na\u0161ej cesty sa celkom vytratil. Pochybujem, \u017ee ktor\u00e9ko\u013evek z na\u0161ich nedorozumen\u00ed myslel naozaj zle. Je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00fd m\u00e1me in\u00e9 z\u00e1ujmy a priority. Napokon mu v duchu d\u00e1vam za pravdu i pri jeho snahe vybavi\u0165 transport autom aspo\u0148 tam, kam sa d\u00e1. Pochod s plnou po\u013enou je fakt vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00faci a nie ka\u017ed\u00fd mus\u00ed by\u0165 tak\u00fd &#8220;nadr\u017ean\u00fd&#8221; na chodenie, ako my. V\u0161etko ostatn\u00e9 s\u00fa len kult\u00farne odli\u0161nosti, pr\u00e1ve v\u010faka ktor\u00fdm je cestovanie tak\u00e9 zauj\u00edmav\u00e9. Ke\u010f napr\u00edklad pon\u00fakneme \u010dokol\u00e1dou Pastora a Balb\u00ednu, nezober\u00fa si jednu tabli\u010dku, ako sme nau\u010den\u00ed my, ale neraz cel\u00fa polovicu. Ich po\u0148atie delenia sa je in\u00e9 ako na\u0161e, viac doslovn\u00e9. Rovnako je to s de\u0165mi, kdeko\u013evek ich stretneme. Ke\u010f ich pon\u00fakneme z bal\u00ed\u010dka cukr\u00edkov, ber\u00fa si ich automaticky pln\u00e9 dlane.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Kokov\u00e9 listy. Ochutn\u00e1te?\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=2862&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_left\" title=\"Kokov\u00e9 listy. Ochutn\u00e1te?\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=2863&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"Kokov\u00e9 listy. Ochutn\u00e1te?\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Funguje to i naopak: on\u00e1 mil\u00e1 rodinka, ktor\u00fa sme stretli piknikova\u0165 kdesi vo vrchoch nad Potos\u00ed, n\u00e1s pon\u00fakla kokov\u00fdmi listami. Nemohli sme si zobra\u0165 &#8220;len zo slu\u0161nosti&#8221;; vn\u00fatili n\u00e1m ich cel\u00e9 hrste, lebo darova\u0165 koku je v Bol\u00edvii symbolom \u0161tedrosti a priate\u013estva. Mama, hlava rodiny, n\u00e1m e\u0161te pridala dobr\u00fa radu, \u017ee si m\u00e1me d\u00e1va\u0165 ve\u013ek\u00fd pozor v ich rodnom meste Cochabamba. Naomi mesto nav\u0161t\u00edvila, ale radu neposl\u00fachla. Svoj bol\u00edvijsk\u00fd pobyt tak zakon\u010dila, ke\u010f ju s kamar\u00e1tom v kopcoch nad Cochabambou prepadli ozbrojen\u00ed mu\u017ei. Okrem straty pe\u0148az\u00ed a \u0161oku si jej kamar\u00e1t odniesol i podrezan\u00e9 hrdlo. Ale to len tak na okraj&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Nasp\u00e4\u0165, v t\u00e1bore, na n\u00e1s op\u00e4\u0165 za\u00fato\u010dia v\u010dely muchy. Aby sa vytratili, treba po\u010dka\u0165 do s\u00famraku. Na\u0161a posledn\u00e1 noc v pralese. Sed\u00edm pri dohas\u00ednaj\u00facom ohni, po\u010d\u00favam \u0161kriekanie d\u017eungle a rozm\u00fd\u0161\u013eam, kedy budem m\u00f4c\u0165 nie\u010do podobn\u00e9 za\u017ei\u0165 najbli\u017e\u0161ie. Pobyt v Noel Kempff, to bol hlbok\u00fd, nebezpe\u010dne d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok. Budeme ho musie\u0165 v\u0161etci v sebe sprac\u00fava\u0165 pomaly, po k\u00faskoch, ke\u010f sa u\u017e vr\u00e1time do miest a medzi \u013eud\u00ed.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3528&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_right\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3529&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>V piatok 10. augusta sa vyd\u00e1vame na spiato\u010dn\u00fa cestu do Los Fierros. Je nesmierne hor\u00faci de\u0148, nad hlavou mi sk\u00e1\u010du posledn\u00e9 bandy zvedav\u00fdch op\u00edc a pomaly spolu s ostatn\u00fdmi postupujem cez redn\u00faci prales do savany. V savane nach\u00e1dzame v strede cesty ml\u00e1\u010fa koralovca s odtrhnutou hlavou. Koralovec, to je n\u00e1dhern\u00fd farebn\u00fd had, najjedovatej\u0161\u00ed na tejto plan\u00e9te. Koralovec pozn\u00e1 svoje mo\u017enosti; ak ho ohroz\u00edte, nikdy sa nesna\u017e\u00ed utiec\u0165, ale okam\u017eite \u00fato\u010d\u00ed. Ke\u010f pohryzie \u010dloveka kdesi v civiliz\u00e1cii, na z\u00e1chranu ost\u00e1va akur\u00e1t nieko\u013eko min\u00fat a ak\u00e1-tak\u00e1 n\u00e1dej, \u017ee \u010dlovek pre\u017eije, hoci ochrnut\u00fd. Tu, v savane Noel Kempff by som si mohol akur\u00e1t sadn\u00fa\u0165 na kop\u010dek a p\u00edsa\u0165 testament. Kv\u00f4li postupuj\u00facej paral\u00fdze tela a n\u00e1slednej z\u00e1stave srdca by som si v\u0161ak musel dos\u0165 pohn\u00fa\u0165.<\/p>\n<p>Do Los Fierros prich\u00e1dzam tot\u00e1lne vysilen\u00fd a dehydrovan\u00fd. Nasadil som maxim\u00e1lne tempo, aby som to mal \u010do najr\u00fdchlej\u0161ie za sebou, a savanu som namiesto dvoch hod\u00edn prebehol za jednu &#8211; bez vody a bez prest\u00e1vky. V Los Fierros ma u\u017e \u010dak\u00e1 Sander a \u010fal\u0161ie stovky v\u010diel. Dozved\u00e1m sa, \u017ee tu niet vody. Postupne prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa i Justyna a Brian a dych\u010dia v popo\u013eud\u0148aj\u0161ej hor\u00fa\u010dave. Nasleduje ich vy\u0161e dvojmetrov\u00fd legu\u00e1n, ktor\u00fd si korzuje po t\u00e1bore, akoby sme boli u\u0148ho len na n\u00e1v\u0161teve. \u010eal\u0161iu hodinu \u010dakania na Pastora a jeho \u017eenu, ktor\u00ed zaostali, tr\u00e1vime v n\u00e1deji, \u017ee to s vodou nie je pravda.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"A \u010do takto trojmetrov\u00fd legu\u00e1n?\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3544&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_left\" title=\"A \u010do takto trojmetrov\u00fd legu\u00e1n?\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3545&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"A \u010do takto trojmetrov\u00fd legu\u00e1n?\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Prich\u00e1dza Pastor; je to pravda. Niet tu ani kvapky vody. Do n\u00e1dr\u017ee ju treba napumpova\u0165 \u010derpadlom, nie je v\u0161ak benz\u00edn. Zmizli i k\u013e\u00fa\u010de od dom\u010dekov a teda nebudeme ma\u0165 kde spa\u0165. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee u\u017e m\u00e1me len jednu mo\u017enos\u0165. Pastor zap\u00e1ja vysiela\u010dku do bat\u00e9ri\u00ed a sp\u00e1ja sa s Ign\u00e1ciom. Noc m\u00f4\u017eeme bez probl\u00e9mov str\u00e1vi\u0165 v stanoch, ale bez vody tu nem\u00e1me \u010do robi\u0165. Rozhodujeme sa od\u00eds\u0165 e\u0161te v ten de\u0148 sp\u00e4\u0165 do Floridy.<\/p>\n<p>O dve hodiny sa vskutku objav\u00ed Ign\u00e1ciov d\u017e\u00edp s dvomi sluhami na korbe. Vraciame sa do dediny, Ign\u00e1cio sa scvrkol ako vysu\u0161en\u00fd orie\u0161ok. Prizn\u00e1va sa, \u017ee na benz\u00edn u\u017e nie s\u00fa peniaze a najbli\u017e\u0161ie ani nebud\u00fa. Vo Floride sk\u00fa\u0161ame \u010fal\u0161ie ubytovanie (patr\u00ed \u010fal\u0161ej Ign\u00e1ciovej sestre), oddychujeme cel\u00fd ve\u010der a nasleduj\u00faci de\u0148. vy\u0165ahujeme si posledn\u00e9 klie\u0161te, lie\u010dime p\u013euzgiere a dop\u013a\u0148ame telesn\u00e9 kilogramy. Bilancia na\u0161ej \u00fa\u017easnej v\u00fdpravy, to je 183 kilometrov pe\u0161o v d\u017eungli, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou s plnou v\u00fdstrojou a z\u00e1sobami.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"V La Florida sa d\u00e1vame dokopy. T\u00fato fotografiu pros\u00edm nikomu neukazujte\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3442&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_right\" title=\"V La Florida sa d\u00e1vame dokopy. T\u00fato fotografiu pros\u00edm nikomu neukazujte\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3443&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"V La Florida sa d\u00e1vame dokopy. T\u00fato fotografiu pros\u00edm nikomu neukazujte\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Posledn\u00fd ve\u010der vo Floride e\u0161te s Pastorom vyr\u00e1\u017eame na kapybary, moje ob\u013e\u00faben\u00e9 hl\u00fape zvieratk\u00e1. A naozaj, stretneme ich cel\u00e9 st\u00e1do; ve\u013ek\u00e9, hanbliv\u00e9 cicavce s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi smie\u0161nymi pyskmi najprv od \u013eaku znehybnej\u00fa a potom sa \u0165arbav\u00fdm behom vrhn\u00fa do rieky a lesn\u00fdch h\u00fa\u0161tin. M\u00ed\u0148ame mno\u017estv\u00e1 vt\u00e1kov, a\u017e k\u00fdm sa nevr\u00e1time do dediny. Po zotmen\u00ed sa um\u00fdvame v rieke, tak ako to robia dom\u00e1ci, bedlivo pritom pozorujeme hladinu kv\u00f4li agres\u00edvnym alig\u00e1torom.<\/p>\n<p>R\u00e1no nasad\u00e1me do miestneho autobusu, l\u00fa\u010dime sa so \u017eovi\u00e1lnym Ign\u00e1ciom, ostatn\u00fdmi mil\u00fdmi \u013eu\u010fmi z dediny, s riekou a n\u00e1rodn\u00fdm parkom. Tesne pred odchodom e\u0161te vtisne Ign\u00e1cio Just\u00fdne svoju adresu: &#8220;nie \u017ee to strat\u00ed\u0161!&#8221; Ign\u00e1cio \u017eije v San Ignacio. Pozn\u00e1me teda jeho ulicu i telef\u00f3nne \u010d\u00edslo. Ak sa raz budeme chcie\u0165 op\u00e4\u0165 dosta\u0165 do parku, sta\u010d\u00ed zavola\u0165. Nezoberie on, zoberie jeho \u017eena. Vol\u00e1 sa Ign\u00e1cia. Alebo najstar\u0161\u00ed Ign\u00e1ciov syn Ign\u00e1cio. Alebo otec. Ign\u00e1cio.<\/p>\n<p><a title=\"Prv\u00fd de\u0148, t\u00fara k vodop\u00e1du. Justyna a Brian sa u\u017e netv\u00e1ria tak nad\u0161ene\" href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3322&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" rel=\"lightbox[g2image]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"g2image_float_left\" title=\"Prv\u00fd de\u0148, t\u00fara k vodop\u00e1du. Justyna a Brian sa u\u017e netv\u00e1ria tak nad\u0161ene\" src=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;g2_itemId=3323&amp;g2_GALLERYSID=fc39c2d79c820dde57ef02850d4ba08c\" alt=\"Prv\u00fd de\u0148, t\u00fara k vodop\u00e1du. Justyna a Brian sa u\u017e netv\u00e1ria tak nad\u0161ene\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\"><\/a>Za oknami sa vz\u010fa\u013euje park i t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 n\u00e1\u0161ho kr\u00e1sneho \u017eivota. Po celom dni hor\u00facej, hrkotaj\u00facej cesty napokon prich\u00e1dzame do meste\u010dka San Ignacio de Velasco (tu b\u00fdva Ign\u00e1cio). V pouli\u010dnom st\u00e1nku sa pok\u00fa\u0161ame z\u00edska\u0165 r\u00fdchlu ve\u010deru, ale pani v\u00fddajky\u0148a v \u017eivote nemala do \u010dinenia s vegetar\u00e1nmi. &#8220;Ry\u017eu bez kura\u0165a? Nech\u00e1pem. A kura?&#8221; Nechceme! &#8220;Ale ry\u017eu bez kura\u0165a?&#8221; \u00c1no. &#8220;A kura?&#8221; Kura nechceme. &#8220;A ry\u017eu chcete?&#8221; Chceme. &#8220;Ale bez kura\u0165a?&#8221; at\u010f. Ja str\u00e1cam nervy a vo ved\u013eaj\u0161om st\u00e1nku si kupujem ak\u00e9si kol\u00e1\u010de, Justyna to vydr\u017eala a ry\u017eu napokon vskutku dostala. Ve\u010der presad\u00e1me do pohodln\u00e9ho ve\u013ek\u00e9ho autobusu, hoci pln\u00e9ho \u0161v\u00e1bov, a absolvujeme no\u010dn\u00fa cestu sp\u00e4\u0165 do Santa Cruz. Op\u00e4\u0165 hostel s tucanmi, ulice pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed, re\u0161taur\u00e1cie a internetov\u00e9 kaviarne. Sander odch\u00e1dza do Braz\u00edlie a my do La Paz, perfektn\u00fdm luxusn\u00fdm autobusom.<\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoNormal\">Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/gallerysk.html\">Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb <a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?page_id=235\" target=\"_blank\">Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb <a href=\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_itemId=3298\" target=\"_blank\">N\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Noel Kempff Mercado<\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/gallerysk.html\">Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb <a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?page_id=235\" target=\"_blank\">Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb <a href=\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/main.php?g2_itemId=3458\" target=\"_blank\">Fauna a fl\u00f3ra bol\u00edvijskej Amazonky<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"MsoNormal\"><a href=\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/\/?page_id=143\">Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb <a href=\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/sk\/Poznamky%20k%20svetu%20za%20pohladnicou\/Kempff.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">Pre\u010do Noel Kempff?<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>N\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Noel Kempff Mercado ukr\u00fdva mnoho tajomstiev: prales s n\u00e1hornou plo\u0161inou, panensk\u00e9 rieky a stopy po narkotikov\u00fdch karteloch, ktor\u00e9 tu vyr\u00e1bali koka\u00edn.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1657,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[100,403,302,412,401,121],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/223"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=223"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/223\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8120,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/223\/revisions\/8120"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1657"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=223"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=223"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=223"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}