{"id":222,"date":"2007-08-04T18:27:53","date_gmt":"2007-08-04T16:27:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=222"},"modified":"2019-01-20T10:41:28","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T08:41:28","slug":"dzungla-a-jej-ludia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/dzungla-a-jej-ludia","title":{"rendered":"D\u017eung\u013ea a jej \u013eudia"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Dedinka<\/a>Florida je mal\u00e1 osada na brehu rieky Paragu\u00e1. Zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch str\u00e1n je d\u017eung\u013ea, na druhom brehu sa za\u010d\u00edna n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park. Tu m\u00f4\u017eeme z\u00edska\u0165 sprievodcu a pr\u00edpadne i \u010dosi z potravinov\u00fdch z\u00e1sob, hoci mo\u017enosti s\u00fa zna\u010dne obmedzen\u00e9. Napr\u00edklad ja som si pred odchodom z Floridy k\u00fapil od ist\u00e9ho dedka vrecko grepov, ktor\u00e9 som si aj s\u00e1m \u010derstvu\u010dk\u00e9 natrhal priamo zo stromu. Po\u010das obera\u010dky mi v\u0161ak za chrbtom dych\u010dal dedko a ak\u00fdsi dvaja jun\u00e1ci s palicami, akoby ma podozrievali z podv\u00e1dzania pri v\u00e1\u017een\u00ed ich rodinn\u00e9ho striebra. Mysl\u00edm, \u017ee keby som sa ulakomil na jeden grejpfruit naviac, skon\u010dilo by to krviprelievan\u00edm.<\/p>\n

Zatia\u013e sme v\u0161ak len pri\u0161li. Ign\u00e1cio zastav\u00ed pred jednoduch\u00fdm dom\u010dekom so slamenou strechou, v ktorom sa ubytujeme na jednu noc. Ako sa nesk\u00f4r dozved\u00e1me, “hostel” vlastn\u00ed jeho sestra. Dost\u00e1vame sprievodcu, ako sa uk\u00e1\u017ee, Ign\u00e1ciovho brata. Ign\u00e1cio m\u00e1 trin\u00e1s\u0165 s\u00farodencov a ka\u017ed\u00e9mu z nich treba da\u0165 zarobi\u0165. Ve\u010der zo\u017eenieme v dedinke dokonca i tepl\u00e9 pivo a oran\u017e\u00e1du z ak\u00e9hosi s\u00fakromn\u00e9ho domu, ktor\u00fd ob\u00fdva takisto Ign\u00e1ciova rodina.<\/p>\n

\"Rieka<\/a>Tr\u00e1vime posledn\u00e9 hodiny v civiliz\u00e1cii. Ja a Justa dost\u00e1vame od Ign\u00e1ciovej sestry vegetari\u00e1nsky obed (such\u00e1 ry\u017ea, such\u00e9 zemiaky a vaj\u00ed\u010dko), pozorujeme prasa\u010die rodinky, promen\u00e1duj\u00face sa po dedine, k\u00fapeme sa v rieke.<\/p>\n

Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 sa op\u00e4\u0165 zbal\u00edme a vsad\u00e1me do d\u017e\u00edpu, spolu s Ign\u00e1ciov\u00fdmi sluhami, na\u0161im sprievodcom menom Pastor, jeho \u017eenou a dc\u00e9rou. Nie je n\u00e1m jasn\u00e9, ak\u00fa \u00falohu bud\u00fa v na\u0161ej v\u00fdprave zohr\u00e1va\u0165, ale sme pripraven\u00ed da\u0165 jasne najavo, \u017ee nep\u00f4jde o platen\u00fa funkciu. Za dedinou sa registrujeme u str\u00e1\u017ecov parku a pok\u00fa\u0161ame sa prejs\u0165 cez rieku Paragu\u00e1. Nie je tu nijak\u00fd most, len mal\u00fd pont\u00f3n na druhej strane. Prievozn\u00edk \u0161iel na ryby. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee sme na nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn nahrat\u00ed, to v\u0161ak e\u0161te nepozn\u00e1me Ign\u00e1cia. Rozk\u00e1\u017ee mlad\u0161iemu zo sluhov pre\u0161plha\u0165 sa na druh\u00fa stranu ku pont\u00f3nu po lane, visiacom cez cel\u00fa \u0161\u00edrku rieky. Samozrejme, presne v strede rieky sa sluha zo\u0161mykne do vody a k pont\u00f3nu u\u017e nebor\u00e1k len prer\u00fa\u010dkuje.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>Prech\u00e1dzame cez rieku a pokra\u010dujeme v ceste. \u010coraz u\u017e\u0161ie n\u00e1s zviera d\u017eung\u013ea, auto zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch str\u00e1n \u0161\u013eahaj\u00fa kr\u00edky a kon\u00e1re. Po hodine cesty prich\u00e1dzame do t\u00e1bora, nieko\u013ek\u00fdch zanedban\u00fdch dom\u010dekov s plechov\u00fdmi strechami. Ign\u00e1cio si vymysl\u00ed cenu za ubytovanie, var\u00edme si ve\u010deru a pl\u00e1nujeme cestu s na\u0161im sprievodcom. Pastor d\u00fafal, \u017ee jeho \u017eena by s nami i\u0161la ako platen\u00e1 kuch\u00e1rka, to mu v\u0161ak vyhadzujeme z hlavy. P\u00f4jde s nami i napriek tomu, ale len ako Pastorova osobn\u00e1 kuch\u00e1rka. Ke\u010f Pastorovi ukazujeme, \u010do v\u0161etko chceme vidie\u0165, vyzer\u00e1 by\u0165 \u010doraz znechutenej\u0161\u00ed. Zrejme \u010dakal platen\u00fa dovolenku pre seba a svoju \u017eenu s leniv\u00fdmi gringos, ktor\u00fdch zauj\u00edma len pivo a ve\u010dera. Najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie prekvapenie nast\u00e1va ke\u010f zist\u00ed, \u017ee nemienime vyu\u017e\u00edva\u0165 slu\u017eby Ign\u00e1ciovho d\u017e\u00edpu, preto\u017ee chceme park spozna\u0165 pe\u0161o a d\u00f4kladne. Tak\u00fdto obrat situ\u00e1cie nikto z na\u0161ich hostite\u013eov neo\u010dak\u00e1val. T\u00fdch m\u00e1lo turistov, ktor\u00ed sa sem napokon dostan\u00fa po svojom, sa d\u00e1 v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou obra\u0165 o peniaze r\u00fdchlo a bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ej fyzickej n\u00e1mahy.<\/p>\n

Hne\u010f na druh\u00fd de\u0148 r\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017eame na prv\u00e9 miesto, sedemdesiatmetrov\u00fd vodop\u00e1d v d\u017eungli. Je vzdialen\u00fd okolo \u0161tyridsa\u0165 kilometrov, z\u00fafal\u00fd Pastor e\u0161te urob\u00ed posledn\u00fd pokus a navrhuje, \u017ee Ign\u00e1cio n\u00e1s odvezie – zadarmo – cez po\u010diato\u010dn\u00fd \u00fasek, ktor\u00fd je e\u0161te zjazdn\u00fd d\u017e\u00edpom. Odmietame. Do flia\u0161 s vodou h\u00e1d\u017eeme prv\u00e9 purifika\u010dn\u00e9 tabletky, vyklad\u00e1me si na plecia ruksaky s v\u00fdstrojou a z\u00e1sobami a op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame t\u00e1bor Los Fierros.<\/p>\n

\"Na<\/a>Cesta je dlh\u00e1 a vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00faca. Prech\u00e1dzame najprv riedkou d\u017eung\u013eou, potom dlhou, hor\u00facou savanou a op\u00e4\u0165 vch\u00e1dzame do d\u017eungle, cez zarasten\u00e9 h\u00fa\u0161tiny a popadan\u00e9 stromy. D\u017eung\u013ea pomaly prech\u00e1dza do pralesa. Na tomto \u00fazem\u00ed sa a\u017e do ist\u00e9ho \u010dasu \u0165a\u017eilo drevo vo ve\u013ekom. To vysvet\u013euje i fakt, \u017ee sa tu e\u0161te st\u00e1le nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa cesty, pomaly zarastaj\u00face d\u017eung\u013eou. Hlb\u0161ie do vn\u00fatrozemia sa v\u0161ak zachoval p\u00f4vodn\u00fd prales, ktor\u00fd tu vo vlastnom nekone\u010dnom cykle \u00fapadku a rastu pam\u00e4t\u00e1 \u010dasy, ke\u010f e\u0161te na zemskom povrchu neexistovali \u013eudia, nehovoriac o seker\u00e1ch a motorov\u00fdch p\u00edlach. Po tom, ako vyhl\u00e1sili oblas\u0165 za n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park, drev\u00e1rska firma musela od\u00eds\u0165 a holoruby sa zr\u00e1stli s nedotknutou v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou pralesa.<\/p>\n

Pastor so svojou \u017eenou BalB\u00ednou zaost\u00e1vaj\u00fa kdesi na konci. Nevedno pre\u010do, Pastor si priniesol len jedny lakovan\u00e9 poltop\u00e1nky, v ktor\u00fdch mu vyr\u00e1stli prv\u00e9 p\u013euzgiere na noh\u00e1ch, sotva sme opustili t\u00e1bor. BalB\u00edna je na tom podobne a teraz krivk\u00e1 cez kon\u00e1re a tr\u00e1vu v \u0161\u013eapk\u00e1ch… Podve\u010der prich\u00e1dzame na t\u00e1borisko, \u010distinku s alt\u00e1nkom. Sme pln\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitkov; po ceste n\u00e1m nad hlavami sk\u00e1kali pav\u00fa\u010die opice, videli sme srny, mno\u017estv\u00e1 vt\u00e1kov a zauj\u00edmav\u00e9ho hmyzu. Sme v\u0161ak i dos\u0165 unaven\u00ed a vodop\u00e1d je e\u0161te st\u00e1le vzdialen\u00fd poldruha hodiny ch\u00f4dze. Nadnes m\u00e1me dos\u0165 – rozklad\u00e1me t\u00e1bor, ve\u010deriame a ukri\u010dan\u00fa no\u010dn\u00fa amazonsk\u00fa d\u017eung\u013eu u\u017e po\u010dujeme len v mr\u00e1kot\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 r\u00e1no n\u00e1s e\u0161te \u010dak\u00e1 cesta k vodop\u00e1du a potom nasp\u00e4\u0165 do hlavn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora Los Fierros. \u010ealej k vodop\u00e1du u\u017e nie je nijak\u00e1 cesta, hoci i zarasten\u00e1. Predierame sa mizn\u00facim chodn\u00ed\u010dkom v hlbokom pralese, medzi vysok\u00fdmi stromami, ktor\u00fdch koruny sa zrastaj\u00fa kdesi nad nami. Na celom tomto obrovskom \u00fazem\u00ed sme dnes \u00faplne sami. V\u0161ade okolo n\u00e1s sa to v\u0161ak hem\u017e\u00ed \u017eivotom, zvierat\u00e1 pred nami utekaj\u00fa z h\u00fa\u0161tin a kon\u00e1rov. Napokon sa pred nami otv\u00e1ra skalnat\u00fd \u00fates, z ktor\u00e9ho pad\u00e1 vodop\u00e1d do mal\u00e9ho jazierka. Je tu ticho, pokoj, neuverite\u013ene zelen\u00e1 pr\u00edroda. Dlh\u00fd \u010das tu len tak sed\u00edme, bez my\u0161lienok a ak\u00e9hoko\u013evek cie\u013ea, pri padaj\u00facej vode uprostred d\u017eungle. Pochopil som, \u017ee amazonka ako zelen\u00e9 p\u013e\u00faca tejto plan\u00e9ty, to nie je len otrepan\u00e1 fr\u00e1za.<\/p>\n

Vraciame sa nasp\u00e4\u0165. Okolo n\u00e1s sa kri\u017euj\u00fa cesti\u010dky mravcov a termitov. S\u00fa ich tu stovky druhov, od najmen\u0161\u00edch a\u017e po obrovsk\u00fdch Reza\u010dov listov. Maj\u00fa tu svoje autostr\u00e1dy i ved\u013eaj\u0161ie cesty, siahaj\u00fa stovky metrov a viac. Pozorova\u0165 mravce, to je fascinuj\u00faci z\u00e1\u017eitok. Mravce – robotn\u00edci prin\u00e1\u0161aj\u00fa ve\u013ek\u00e9 kusy listov a inej potravy do mraveniska. Str\u00e1\u017eia ich bojovn\u00edci s obrovsk\u00fdmi tes\u00e1kmi. Ak sa robotn\u00edk previn\u00ed, napr\u00edklad vyst\u00fapi z radu nosi\u010dov, vojaci sa okam\u017eite na\u0148ho vrhn\u00fa a zabij\u00fa ho. Niektor\u00e9 typy mraven\u010d\u00edch spolo\u010denstiev s\u00fa schopn\u00e9 vy\u010disti\u0165 cel\u00e9 \u00fazemie, z ktor\u00e9ho potom ostane len tr\u00e1vnat\u00e1 plocha s kopcami mraven\u00edsk. Mravce nezastav\u00ed ni\u010d. Bu\u010fte tak\u00ed nerozumn\u00ed, \u017ee v bl\u00edzkosti ich ciest si postav\u00edte stan, a do dvoch hod\u00edn ho rozober\u00fa na mili\u00f3n k\u00faskov v domnen\u00ed, \u017ee ide o nejak\u00e9 jedlo. Ak m\u00e1te smolu a pr\u00e1ve v \u0148om sp\u00edte, m\u00f4\u017eete skon\u010di\u0165 rovnako. Niektor\u00e9 bojov\u00e9 termity s\u00fa tak\u00e9 siln\u00e9, \u017ee im sta\u010d\u00ed dosta\u0165 sa na va\u0161e telo v nieko\u013ek\u00fdch desiatkach a dohryz\u00fa v\u00e1s nato\u013eko, \u017ee napokon spadnete na zem a tam si v\u00e1s n\u00e1jdu ostatn\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>Na mieste, kde sme str\u00e1vili noc, teraz zavl\u00e1dli muchy a v\u010dely. V\u0161etky na\u0161e ruksaky, ktor\u00e9 sme si tu nechali, s\u00fa pokryt\u00e9 agres\u00edvnymi divok\u00fdmi v\u010delami. Nad nami sa hojd\u00e1 na kon\u00e1roch cel\u00e1 opi\u010dia rodinka. Mal\u00e1 opi\u010dka je zavesen\u00e1 na chrbte svojej matky, ktor\u00e1 pritom vis\u00ed dolu hlavou z kon\u00e1ra a za\u010dudovane n\u00e1s pozoruje. Kv\u00f4li v\u010del\u00e1m v\u0161ak ka\u0161leme aj na opice a r\u00fdchlo sa vraciame do Los Fierros, tentoraz e\u0161te unavenej\u0161\u00ed ako v\u010dera. V ruksaku m\u00e1m \u010dosi okolo 30 kg, posledn\u00e9 dve hodiny cez savanu u\u017e kr\u00e1\u010dam z posledn\u00fdch s\u00edl. Justynka zomrela u\u017e pred p\u00e1r hodinami, teraz je s nami u\u017e len jej telo. M\u00e1 20 k\u00edl menej ako \u00fatly Brian a \u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00ed ruksak. Po n\u00e1vrate do hlavn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora u\u017e len v\u0161etci opatrne na\u0161\u013eapujeme po svojich p\u013euzgieroch a vy\u0165ahujeme si desiatky klie\u0161\u0165ov. M\u00f4j osobn\u00fd skromn\u00fd rekord bol 41.<\/p>\n

V Los Fiierros sa zatia\u013e situ\u00e1cia mierne zmenila. Pri\u0161iel ak\u00fdsi agent\u00farny z\u00e1jazd siedmych \u0160v\u00e9dov a ich sprievodcov. Ign\u00e1cio zmizol. Znamen\u00e1 to, \u017ee nem\u00e1me elektrinu, preto\u017ee ukryl z\u00e1soby benz\u00ednu do gener\u00e1tora. \u0160v\u00e9di mu zrejme boli nesympatick\u00ed, preto\u017ee im vyhradil najhor\u0161\u00ed dom\u010dek – caba\u00f1u, v ktorej nefunguje voda ani z\u00e1chod. Je to asi preto, \u017ee agent\u00farny z\u00e1jazd m\u00e1 vlastn\u00e9 aut\u00e1 a Ign\u00e1ciovi ned\u00e1 zarobi\u0165. \u0160v\u00e9di chodia prestra\u0161ene kaka\u0165 na hranicu no\u010dnej d\u017eungle, i napriek hanbe sa dr\u017eia spolu a osvet\u013euj\u00fa v\u00fdrobu svojich smrad\u013eav\u00fdch kol\u00e1\u010dikov, tak\u017ee detaily vidie\u0165 z\u010faleka, priamo z okna na\u0161ej funk\u010dnej cabane.<\/p>\n

\"Ign\u00e1ciov<\/a>Ve\u010der pastor zapoj\u00ed akumul\u00e1tory do vysiela\u010dky a vol\u00e1 Ign\u00e1ciovi. Ign\u00e1cio sa m\u00f4\u017ee tv\u00e1ri\u0165, ako chce, ale pred svojim star\u0161\u00edm bratom je ako za\u0161\u013eapnut\u00fd \u0161v\u00e1b. Pastor mu vynad\u00e1 za n\u00e1s v\u0161etk\u00fdch kv\u00f4li elektrine a prid\u00e1 e\u0161te zop\u00e1r vlastn\u00fdch, \u0161\u0165avnat\u00fdch s\u00farodeneck\u00fdch n\u00e1padov. Na druh\u00fd de\u0148 odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa \u0160v\u00e9di d\u017e\u00edpmi do d\u017eungle, my oddychujeme a pripravujeme sa na \u010fal\u0161iu ve\u013ek\u00fa t\u00faru. Pastor sa n\u00e1m prizn\u00e1va, \u017ee agent\u00farny sprievodca mu pred odchodom ozn\u00e1mil, \u017ee si nepraj\u00fa sa s nami v d\u017eungli stretn\u00fa\u0165. Tro\u0161ku sme z tak\u00e9hoto prejavu “priate\u013estva” prekvapen\u00ed, ale hlava n\u00e1s z toho nebol\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb N\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Noel Kempff Mercado<\/a><\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb Fauna a fl\u00f3ra bol\u00edvijskej Amazonky<\/a><\/p>\n

Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Pre\u010do Noel Kempff?<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Florida je mal\u00e1 osada na brehu rieky Paragu\u00e1. Zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch str\u00e1n je d\u017eung\u013ea, na druhom brehu sa za\u010d\u00edna n\u00e1rodn\u00fd park. Tu m\u00f4\u017eeme z\u00edska\u0165 sprievodcu a pr\u00edpadne i \u010dosi z potravinov\u00fdch z\u00e1sob, hoci mo\u017enosti s\u00fa zna\u010dne obmedzen\u00e9. Napr\u00edklad ja som si pred odchodom z Floridy k\u00fapil od ist\u00e9ho dedka vrecko grepov, ktor\u00e9 som si aj s\u00e1m…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4639,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[100,403,302,412,401,121],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/222"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=222"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/222\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8121,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/222\/revisions\/8121"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4639"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=222"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=222"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=222"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}