{"id":221,"date":"2007-08-03T17:38:36","date_gmt":"2007-08-03T15:38:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=221"},"modified":"2019-01-20T10:42:09","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T08:42:09","slug":"cesta-do-narodneho-parku-noel-kempff-mercado","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/cesta-do-narodneho-parku-noel-kempff-mercado","title":{"rendered":"Cesta do n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku Noel Kempff Mercado"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Nebojte<\/a>R\u00e1no sa zob\u00fadzame vo v\u00fdchodobol\u00edvijskom meste Santa Cruz. Vo dvore hostelu je pr\u00edjemn\u00e1 tropick\u00e1 z\u00e1hrada a dva n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 tucany, ktor\u00e9 so svojimi obrovsk\u00fdmi oran\u017eov\u00fdmi zob\u00e1kmi kutraj\u00fa po zbytkoch z ra\u0148ajok. Je jasn\u00e9, \u017ee zrazu sme v \u00faplne inej Bol\u00edvii, ne\u017e ak\u00fa sme poznali z n\u00e1hornej planiny, \u010di dokonca z okolia Trinidadu. Na uliciach vidie\u0165 viac bohatstva, kraj\u0161ie domy a lep\u0161ie aut\u00e1, pohodov\u00fdch, priate\u013esk\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed, ak\u00fdch a\u017e tak ve\u013ea v Bol\u00edvii nestretnete. Regi\u00f3n Santa Cruz v\u010fa\u010d\u00ed za svoje bohatstvo okrem in\u00e9ho i plant\u00e1\u017eam koky a obchodu s drevom; obe tieto aktivity maj\u00fa, mierne povedan\u00e9, svoje “pre a proti”.<\/p>\n

Nem\u00e1me tu ve\u013ea \u010dasu na z\u00e1bavu. Dnes, vo \u0161tvrtok 2. augusta, mus\u00edme z\u00edska\u0165 v\u0161etky lok\u00e1lne inform\u00e1cie o na\u0161ej \u010fal\u0161ej destin\u00e1cii, nak\u00fapi\u0165 jedlo a vybavenie a napokon ve\u010der vypadn\u00fa\u0165 autobusom, ktor\u00fd jazd\u00ed raz za t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148. Mierime do n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku Noel Kempff Mercado, do toho najdivokej\u0161ieho a najpravdivej\u0161ieho pralesa, ak\u00fd v Bol\u00edvii n\u00e1jdete. D\u00e1vame t\u00fdmto amazonke druh\u00fa \u0161ancu. D\u00fafame, \u017ee tentoraz v nej zazrieme to, \u010do sa v Braz\u00edlii nedalo, autentick\u00fa divo\u010dinu bez \u013eud\u00ed a cestovn\u00fdch agent\u00far. Park je v\u0161ak vzdialen\u00e9, nedostupn\u00e9 miesto na braz\u00edlskych hraniciach, bez turistickej infra\u0161trukt\u00fary a m\u00e1p.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Napokon nach\u00e1dzame pomoc v rovnomennom m\u00fazeu od jeho pracovn\u00edkov, ktor\u00ed do parku chodia na exkurzie. Vybavujeme si transport medzi autobusom a parkom, zis\u0165ujeme priechodnos\u0165 riek a mo\u017enos\u0165 z\u00edskania lok\u00e1lneho sprievodcu. U\u017e v\u010faka expoz\u00edci\u00e1m m\u00fazea vid\u00edme, \u017ee sa m\u00e1me na \u010do te\u0161i\u0165. Je tu nieko\u013eko zauj\u00edmav\u00fdch fotografi\u00ed, vypchat\u00e9 zvierat\u00e1 a ve\u013ek\u00e1 zbierka hmyzu z parku, tak\u00e9ho obrovsk\u00e9ho, \u017ee by bez probl\u00e9mov spravil kari\u00e9ru v hororov\u00fdch filmoch.<\/p>\n

Do odchodu autobusu n\u00e1m ost\u00e1va nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn. Po\u010das dvan\u00e1stich hod\u00edn prekon\u00e1 okolo \u0161es\u0165sto kilometrov hlboko medzi zabudnut\u00e9 komunity kdesi v d\u017eungli. R\u00fdchlo nakupujeme z\u00e1soby. Tam, kam sa chyst\u00e1me, nie s\u00fa obchody, po\u010das najbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch desiatich dn\u00ed budeme ma\u0165 len \u0165a\u017eko mo\u017enos\u0165 nie\u010do z\u00edska\u0165, ak sme na to teraz zabudli. Tesne pred odchodom sa k n\u00e1m prid\u00e1 Holan\u010fan Sander. Stihol to tak-tak. Nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed predt\u00fdm sa ozval na na\u0161u v\u00fdzvu na cestovate\u013eskom serveri, \u017ee h\u013ead\u00e1me niekoho do partie. Sander m\u00e1 26 rokov, hoci po rozhovore s n\u00edm by sme mu v\u0161etci h\u00e1dali menej.<\/p>\n

\"Posledn\u00fd<\/a>V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, 2. augusta \u010dosi pred \u00f4smou ve\u010der prich\u00e1dzame na ak\u00fdsi zadn\u00fd dvor pln\u00fd smetia, bato\u017einy a ostatn\u00fdch cestuj\u00facich. \u0160peci\u00e1lna cesta si vy\u017eaduje \u0161peci\u00e1lny autobus. Jeden tu u\u017e stoj\u00ed; vyzer\u00e1 ako po z\u00e1sahu n\u00e1stra\u017enej m\u00edny, v\u0161ade mu ch\u00fdbaj\u00fa \u010dasti kapot\u00e1\u017ee a namiesto prednej masky a blatn\u00edkov na n\u00e1s z\u00edzaj\u00fa obrovsk\u00e9 koles\u00e1 a vrtu\u013ea chladi\u010da. V autobuse ch\u00fdbaj\u00fa okn\u00e1 a bato\u017eina sa pr\u00e1ve v neuverite\u013en\u00fdch mno\u017estv\u00e1ch uv\u00e4zuje na streche, \u010do z cel\u00e9ho vozidla rob\u00ed ak\u00fasi gigantick\u00fa, rozrastaj\u00facu sa be\u0161tiu. Pocit e\u0161te umoc\u0148uje neprirodzene zv\u00fd\u0161en\u00fd podvozok, kv\u00f4li extr\u00e9mnym podmienkam v d\u017eungli, kde m\u00e1 slovo “cesta” len nanajv\u00fd\u0161 symbolick\u00fd v\u00fdznam.<\/p>\n

Napokon sa dozved\u00e1me, \u017ee m\u00e1me \u010daka\u0165 na in\u00fd autobus. Znamen\u00e1 to nieko\u013ekohodinov\u00e9 me\u0161kanie, ale na druhej strane, som vskutku \u0161\u0165astn\u00fd, \u017ee nebudem musie\u0165 cestova\u0165 v dopravnom prostriedku, ktor\u00fd sa pr\u00e1ve pok\u00fa\u0161a opusti\u0165 dvor. Autobusu v tom br\u00e1ni n\u00e1vestn\u00e1 tabu\u013ea s n\u00e1zvom firmy a elektrick\u00e9 vedenie, ktor\u00e9 visia ni\u017e\u0161ie, ako strecha pln\u00e1 bato\u017einy. Tabu\u013ea nechce pusti\u0165; vodi\u010d prid\u00e1va plyn, v kon\u0161trukcii \u010dosi prask\u00e1 a autobus sa pos\u00fava vpred, k elektrick\u00e9mu vedeniu. Pomocn\u00edci nadvihuj\u00fa k\u00e1ble, tie sa \u0161\u00fachaj\u00fa o seba a lietaj\u00fa iskry, ale autobus sa napokon pre\u0161mykne popod ne a s neuverite\u013en\u00fdm hrkotom mizne v temnote.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>\u010cakanie sa oplatilo; n\u00e1\u0161 autobus vyzer\u00e1 o \u010dosi lep\u0161ie, v\u0161etci nasad\u00e1me a vyr\u00e1\u017eame. Vn\u00fatraj\u0161ok je tot\u00e1lne prepchat\u00fd \u013eu\u010fmi, bato\u017einou a tovarom. Miesta nieko\u013ek\u00fdch cestuj\u00facich s\u00fa zapratan\u00e9 vecami; sadaj\u00fa si teda na ich vrchol vo v\u0161etk\u00fdch poloh\u00e1ch, ak\u00e9 im \u010dudesn\u00e9 tvary dovo\u013euj\u00fa. M\u00e1me \u0161\u0165astie na najbli\u017e\u0161\u00edch spolupasa\u017eierov. Je ich p\u00e4\u0165 a po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch min\u00fatach jazdy si spravia pohodlie. Zapa\u013euj\u00fa si cigarety a za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa \u017euva\u0165 kokov\u00e9 listy. Posledn\u00fd z nich mi sed\u00ed priamo za chrbtom, na polystyr\u00e9novej chladni\u010dke, a roz\u017eut\u00e9 kokov\u00e9 listy mi spolu s cigaretov\u00fdm popolom vyp\u013e\u00fava priamo na rameno.<\/p>\n

Autobus \u010doskoro sch\u00e1dza z asfaltky na pra\u0161n\u00fa, rozbit\u00fa cestu. Je \u010dosi po polnoci, na\u0161i nov\u00ed kamar\u00e1ti si pr\u00e1ve k\u00fapili druh\u00fa f\u013ea\u0161u whisky a \u0161of\u00e9ra d\u00f4razne \u017eiadaj\u00fa o hlasnej\u0161iu hudbu. V\u0161etci piati smrdia tak desne, \u017ee niet poch\u00fdb, \u017ee naposledy sa k\u00fapali v plodovej vode svojich matiek tesne pred naroden\u00edm.<\/p>\n

\"Cestou<\/a>Noc n\u00e1m prebieha pr\u00edjemne, uprostred zv\u00e4\u010d\u0161uj\u00facej sa vrstvy kokov\u00fdch \u017euvancov na podlahe, cigaretov\u00e9ho dymu a opileck\u00fdch h\u00e1dok piatich indi\u00e1nov. Nadr\u00e1nom som u\u017e pevne rozhodnut\u00fd jedn\u00e9ho z nich u\u0161krti\u0165 reb lankom. Polo\u017e\u00edm ho opatrne do polystyr\u00e9novej chladni\u010dky, na ktorej sed\u00ed, a r\u00e1no ho budem za\u010dudovane h\u013eada\u0165 spolu s ostatn\u00fdmi. Autobus v\u0161ak onedlho kdesi zastav\u00ed a m\u00f4j pl\u00e1n je t\u00fdm zmaren\u00fd.<\/p>\n

Na miesto prich\u00e1dzame na druh\u00fd de\u0148 napoludnie. Posledn\u00fdch nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn sme prech\u00e1dzali u\u017e len savanou, d\u017eung\u013eou a h\u0155stkami dom\u010dekov z blata. Sme tot\u00e1lne unaven\u00ed, nohy mi od stiesnen\u00e9ho priestoru d\u00e1vno st\u0155pli a\u017e po rebr\u00e1. Piati chlap\u00edci sa s nami vedelo l\u00fa\u010dia, chc\u00fa sa s nami foti\u0165 a \u017eiadaj\u00fa o autogramy. M\u00e1m chu\u0165 necha\u0165 im autogram pod okom, ale ke\u010f\u017ee sme mo\u017eno prv\u00ed turisti, ak\u00fdch v \u017eivote stretli, nebudem kazi\u0165 dojem.<\/p>\n

\"Vystupujeme<\/a>Na mieste, kde sme vyst\u00fapili, je jedin\u00e1 slamen\u00e1 chatr\u010d, dreven\u00e1 latr\u00edna a \u010derven\u00fd d\u017e\u00edp s otvorenou korbou. Vych\u00e1dza n\u00e1m naproti bruchat\u00fd Ign\u00e1cio, n\u00e1\u0161 bud\u00faci ve\u013ek\u00fd ochranca a \u0161\u00e9f, \u010dosi medzi otcom a anjelom. Jeho dvaja sluhovia n\u00e1m trhaj\u00fa z r\u00fak bato\u017einu, v\u0161etci vskakujeme do d\u017e\u00edpu (sluhovia ost\u00e1vaj\u00fa na korbe) a mierime \u010fal\u0161\u00edch 50 km hlb\u0161ie do d\u017eungle, do osady la Florida. Z nej sa u\u017e mo\u017eno priamo dosta\u0165 do ju\u017enej \u010dasti parku. Cez lesn\u00fa cestu pred nami prebiehaj\u00fa legu\u00e1ny, div\u00e9 svine, vt\u00e1ky. Ignacio za volantom za svoj skromn\u00fd transport ve\u013ekodu\u0161ne \u017eiada absurdne vysok\u00fa cenu, ktor\u00fa okam\u017eite zmietame zo stola a pon\u00fakame mu desa\u0165kr\u00e1t menej.<\/p>\n

Ignacio prid\u00e1va plyn. Pokazili sme mu n\u00e1ladu. Jeho sluhovia prestra\u0161ene nadskakuj\u00fa na na\u0161ich bato\u017ein\u00e1ch, napokon sa dohodneme na kone\u010dnej cene a Ign\u00e1cio spomal\u00ed. Po\u010das \u010fal\u0161\u00edch dvoch hod\u00edn cesty sa e\u0161te nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t pok\u00fa\u0161a zv\u00fd\u0161i\u0165 cenu a vydranka\u0165 od n\u00e1s cel\u00fa sumu vopred, ale po chv\u00edli n\u00e1m to u\u017e znie len ako bzu\u010danie m\u00fach. Ign\u00e1cio, ako sa dozved\u00e1me, je spr\u00e1vcom parku a zast\u00e1va e\u0161te nieko\u013eko \u010fal\u0161\u00edch d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fdch funkci\u00ed. M\u00e1 okolo \u0161tyridsiatky, je panova\u010dn\u00fd ako kr\u00e1\u013e a n\u00e1ladov\u00fd ako inksk\u00fd boh sopiek. Okrem toho, \u017ee je spr\u00e1vcom parku, je aj jeho jedin\u00fdm pracovn\u00edkom. Je to ve\u013ek\u00e9 rozmaznan\u00e9 a nevypo\u010d\u00edtate\u013en\u00e9 decko, mus\u00edme sa v\u0161ak ma\u0165 na pozore, preto\u017ee jedin\u00e1 vysiela\u010dka, jedin\u00e9 auto a jedin\u00e1 strecha nad hlavou v ju\u017enej \u010dasti parku s\u00fa zamknut\u00e9 na k\u013e\u00fa\u010de, le\u017eiace v jeho vreck\u00e1ch. Nech u\u017e je k\u00fdmko\u013evek, jeho nadriaden\u00ed sa nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa stovky kilometrov odtia\u013eto a Ign\u00e1cio nie je v\u010deraj\u0161\u00ed. Pozn\u00e1 svoju hodnotu.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Nem\u00e1m po\u0148atia, v akom vz\u0165ahu je s dvomi mu\u017emi, sediacimi na korbe, ale spr\u00e1va sa k nim absurdne vlastn\u00edckym sp\u00f4sobom. Prech\u00e1dzame cez ak\u00fasi rie\u010dku; treba upravi\u0165 dreven\u00e9 dosky ponad vodu. Ign\u00e1cio len mierne spomal\u00ed, otvor\u00ed okno a leniv\u00fdm kr\u00e1\u013eovsk\u00fdm pohybom ruky m\u00e1vne smerom k most\u00edku. Obaja vysko\u010dia z korby a upravia cestu. Ign\u00e1cio na nich ani ne\u010dak\u00e1, pomaly pokra\u010duje \u010falej a oni n\u00e1s musia dohoni\u0165 a nasko\u010di\u0165 za jazdy sp\u00e4\u0165 na korbu.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb N\u00e1rodn\u00fd park Noel Kempff Mercado<\/a><\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb Fauna a fl\u00f3ra bol\u00edvijskej Amazonky<\/a><\/p>\n

Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Pre\u010do Noel Kempff?<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dva dni sa trm\u00e1came v rozbitom autobuse plnom opit\u00fdch indi\u00e1nov do nefal\u0161ovan\u00e9ho amazonsk\u00e9ho pralesu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4637,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[100,403,412,401,121],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/221"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=221"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/221\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8122,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/221\/revisions\/8122"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4637"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=221"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=221"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=221"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}