{"id":217,"date":"2007-07-28T20:24:31","date_gmt":"2007-07-28T18:24:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=217"},"modified":"2019-01-20T14:07:38","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T12:07:38","slug":"la-paz","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/la-paz","title":{"rendered":"La Paz"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"La\"V<\/a>Moje prv\u00e9 rann\u00e9 pocity v no\u010dnom autobuse, ke\u010f prich\u00e1dzame na predmestia La Paz: v\u0161ade okolo m\u0148a z\u00e1pach koky, akoby som \u017eul cel\u00fa noc. Vonku be\u017e\u00ed rovn\u00e1 ulica cez mesto El Alto pln\u00e9 slumov; v\u0161etko je pokryt\u00e9 snehom. Neby\u0165 z\u00e1pachu koky a farebn\u00fdch indi\u00e1nov, c\u00edtim sa takmer ako v zimnej, pochm\u00farnej Var\u0161ave. Z El Alto pomaly prech\u00e1dzame do La Paz. Obe mest\u00e1 sa pomaly zrastaj\u00fa, svojimi slumami a chaotickou dopravou visia na strm\u00fdch svahoch na takmer 4.000 m.n.m.<\/p>\n

M\u00ed\u0148ame jednu z chaotick\u00fdch kri\u017eovatiek, v strede cesty le\u017e\u00ed na m\u00e1rach mu\u017esk\u00e9 telo, rozsekan\u00e9 na franforce. Opodia\u013e stoj\u00ed mikrobus; vietor mu zo strechy zvieva snehov\u00e9 vlo\u010dky, n\u00e1razn\u00edk i predn\u00fd chladi\u010d s\u00fa cel\u00e9 od krvi. Nie je tu ani tak ve\u013ea zvedavcov, \u013eudia chodia okolo, akoby ni\u010d. Deje sa to tu pr\u00edli\u0161 \u010dasto; ja s\u00e1m som u\u017e v ju\u017enej Amerike videl to\u013eko m\u0155tvych na cest\u00e1ch. Chodci v Argent\u00edne a Venezuele, ve\u013ea, ve\u013ea motocyklistov v Braz\u00edlii…<\/p>\n

\"La<\/a>Je 26. j\u00fal 2007, rann\u00e9 zasne\u017een\u00e9 La Paz n\u00e1m poskytuje \u00fachvatn\u00fd obraz. Je to prv\u00fd sneh za posledn\u00fdch dvadsa\u0165 rokov, teraz sa vo vych\u00e1dzaj\u00facom slnku pomaly top\u00ed na leskl\u00fdch plechov\u00fdch strech\u00e1ch slumov. Mesto sa roz\u0165ahuje v doline strm\u00fdch h\u00f4r, siahaj\u00fa \u0161es\u0165 a viac kilometrov. Vystupujeme v centre, r\u00fdchlo odch\u00e1dzame z nepr\u00edjemnej stanice do n\u00e1\u0161ho hostelu. Palacinky, k\u00e1va, \u010daj; po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch vych\u00e1dzame do mesta.<\/p>\n

La Paz je \u010dudesn\u00e9. Robia to obrovsk\u00e9 hory, chaotick\u00e1 doprava, mie\u0161anina \u013eud\u00ed a kult\u00far. Prech\u00e1dzame sa po uliciach, no dosta\u0165 sa cez cestu vy\u017eaduje ve\u013ek\u00fa d\u00e1vku odvahy. V ju\u017enej Amerike sa len m\u00e1lo re\u0161pektuje pr\u00e1vo chodcov, \u010di u\u017e na prechode, alebo nie. Tu v Bol\u00edvii je to najhor\u0161ie z najhor\u0161\u00edch. R\u00fatiace sa na v\u00e1s auto jednoducho nespomal\u00ed. V\u00e1\u0161 \u017eivot na ulici, bez ak\u00e9hoko\u013evek preh\u00e1\u0148ania, vis\u00ed na vl\u00e1sku. Ulice nemaj\u00fa nikdy zna\u010dky pre hlavn\u00fa a ved\u013eaj\u0161iu cestu a semafory s\u00fa len v\u00fdnimo\u010dn\u00fdm luxusom. Jazd\u00ed sa na in\u0161tinkt, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie aut\u00e1 si vynucuj\u00fa prednos\u0165 a ostatn\u00ed v\u00e1s takisto v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou re\u0161pektuj\u00fa, ak prech\u00e1dzate kri\u017eovatkou r\u00fdchlej\u0161ie, ako oni. S chodcami sa v\u0161ak nikde nepo\u010d\u00edta: ani pri dopravn\u00fdch zna\u010dk\u00e1ch, ani v etikete \u0161of\u00e9rov.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a> Nav\u0161tevujeme tzv. \u010darodejn\u00edcky trh, na ktorom mo\u017eno k\u00fapi\u0165 zvieracie obety, vysu\u0161en\u00e9 plody lamy, talizmany, byliny a v\u0161etky mo\u017en\u00e9 pom\u00f4cky pre okultn\u00e9 \u00fakony. V La Paz nach\u00e1dzame \u0161tvrte chudobn\u00fdch, \u0161tvrte strednej vrstvy i \u00faplne eur\u00f3pske obchodn\u00e9 centr\u00e1 a re\u0161taur\u00e1cie. La Paz i susediace El Alto dnes rast\u00fa rozpr\u00e1vkov\u00fdm tempom, s\u0165ahuj\u00fa sa sem denne tis\u00edcky dedin\u010danov v n\u00e1deji na lep\u0161\u00ed \u017eivot.<\/p>\n

Brian dostal op\u00e4\u0165 z\u00e1chvaty hor\u00fa\u010dky a hna\u010dky, tentoraz vol\u00e1 lek\u00e1ra. Zis\u0165uje mu agres\u00edvne \u017eal\u00fado\u010dn\u00e9 parazity. Brian za\u010d\u00edna svoju antibiotick\u00fa k\u00faru, my sa od lek\u00e1ra dozved\u00e1me, \u017ee v Bol\u00edvii nie je bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 jes\u0165 ani len \u0161al\u00e1t, opl\u00e1chnut\u00fd vodou z vodovodu a zuby sa doporu\u010duje um\u00fdva\u0165 si v\u00fdlu\u010dne miner\u00e1lkou z f\u013ea\u0161e. V miestnej klinike zis\u0165ujeme i malarick\u00fa situ\u00e1ciu v bol\u00edvijskej Amazonke, kam smerujeme. Lek\u00e1r-odborn\u00edk v\u0161ak nech\u00e1pe ani rozdiel medzi antimalarick\u00fdmi tabletkami, na ktor\u00e9 sa ho p\u00fdtame a zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee tu sa ve\u013ea nedozvieme.<\/p>\n

\"Hlavn\u00e9<\/a>Zatia\u013e \u010do vyblednut\u00fd Brian bezvl\u00e1dne le\u017e\u00ed pred telev\u00edzorom v hosteli, s Justynkou sa pripravujem na zajtraj\u0161\u00ed bicyklov\u00fd v\u00fdlet po kedysi smutne zn\u00e1mej ceste do Coroico. Po\u010das nieko\u013ek\u00fdch hod\u00edn sa \u0148ou sch\u00e1dza s rozdielom v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke viac ako 3.500 m. Cesta so svojim strm\u00fdm klesan\u00edm, \u00fazkou, nevyasfaltovanou vozovkou, hlbok\u00fdmi priepas\u0165ami a neprieh\u013eadnos\u0165ou je pova\u017eovan\u00e1 za najnebezpe\u010dnej\u0161iu na svete. Samozrejme, ve\u013ea tu rob\u00ed marketing; na ceste dnes u\u017e takmer niet \u00e1ut, sl\u00fa\u017ei najm\u00e4 ako turistick\u00e1 atrakcia a v\u00fdletn\u00e1 destin\u00e1cia.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb La Paz<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Moje prv\u00e9 rann\u00e9 pocity v no\u010dnom autobuse, ke\u010f prich\u00e1dzame na predmestia La Paz: v\u0161ade okolo m\u0148a z\u00e1pach koky, akoby som \u017eul cel\u00fa noc. Vonku be\u017e\u00ed rovn\u00e1 ulica cez mesto El Alto pln\u00e9 slumov; v\u0161etko je pokryt\u00e9 snehom. Neby\u0165 z\u00e1pachu koky a farebn\u00fdch indi\u00e1nov, c\u00edtim sa takmer ako v zimnej, pochm\u00farnej Var\u0161ave. Z El Alto pomaly…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,403,401],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/217"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=217"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/217\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8125,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/217\/revisions\/8125"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=217"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=217"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=217"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}