{"id":216,"date":"2007-07-22T20:02:51","date_gmt":"2007-07-22T18:02:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=216"},"modified":"2019-01-20T14:08:09","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T12:08:09","slug":"sucre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/sucre","title":{"rendered":"Sucre"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Mesto\"V<\/a>V Sucre si kone\u010dne u\u017e\u00edvame teplej\u0161ie po\u010dasie. Le\u017e\u00ed o tis\u00edc metrov ni\u017e\u0161ie ako Potos\u00ed, ulice s\u00fa tu \u010dist\u00e9 a domy kr\u00e1sne zrenovovan\u00e9. V na\u0161om hoteli \u0161krieka rozpr\u00e1vaj\u00faci papag\u00e1j Arara,ulice s\u00fa pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed a v\u0161ade vidie\u0165 n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 farebn\u00e9 pleten\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky od miestnych indi\u00e1nskych kme\u0148ov. Naomi n\u00e1s op\u00fa\u0161\u0165a, Brian ost\u00e1va. Spolu objavujeme \u010fal\u0161ie vegetari\u00e1nske re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, Brian v\u0161ak namiesto konverzie na vegetari\u00e1nstvo za\u010d\u00edna s\u00e9riu hor\u00fa\u010dok, hna\u010diek a zvracania, ktor\u00e9 ho zachvacuj\u00fa \u010doraz \u010dastej\u0161ie. Bezradne sk\u00fa\u0161ame r\u00f4zne lieky, Justyna m\u00e1 takisto hna\u010dku a ja len \u010dak\u00e1m, \u010do sa stane so mnou. Po \u010dase sa v\u0161ak v\u0161etko vracia do norm\u00e1lu.<\/p>\n

22. j\u00fala spolu nav\u0161tevujeme nede\u013en\u00fd indi\u00e1nsky trh v Tarabuco<\/em>, dedinke, vzdialenej od Sucre 70 km. Nach\u00e1dzame tu n\u00e1dhern\u00fd, farebn\u00fd svet stoviek st\u00e1nkov, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou pred\u00e1vaj\u00facich tkaniny od \u010diapok a\u017e po obrusy. Miestne indi\u00e1nske kult\u00fary dosiahli vysok\u00fd stupe\u0148 umeleckej imagin\u00e1cie, vtelenej do farieb a vzorov v l\u00e1tkach. Cel\u00e1 ich hlbok\u00e1 symbolika je ohromuj\u00faca; v \u0161at\u00e1ch n\u00e1jdete vpleten\u00e9 mnoh\u00e9 prvky ich mytol\u00f3gie, abstraktn\u00e9 t\u00e9my a fantastick\u00e9 obrazce, ktor\u00fdch zmysel je zn\u00e1my len izolovan\u00e9mu spolo\u010denstvu, tk\u00e1\u010dskym majstrom z dediny, z ktorej v\u00fdrobok poch\u00e1dza.<\/p>\n

\"Umeleck\u00e9<\/a>Vo vynikaj\u00facom m\u00fazeu v Sucre tematicky zameran\u00e9mu na t\u00fato problematiku sme u\u017e na\u0161li mnoh\u00e9 exempl\u00e1re spolu so zlo\u017eit\u00fdm vysvetlen\u00edm symboliky vzorov. Teraz v\u0161etko vid\u00edme priamo pred sebou od umelcov, pred\u00e1vaj\u00facich svoje v\u00fdrobky. Dedina je pln\u00e1 \u013eud\u00ed, pri\u0161li sem komunity z bli\u017e\u0161ieho i vzdialenej\u0161ieho okolia. Takmer v\u0161etci maj\u00fa svoje farebn\u00e9 n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 kroje, smie\u0161ne klob\u00faky, zrkadielka a kadejak\u00e9 neuverite\u013en\u00e9 \u010dasti v\u00fdstroje, ak\u00e9 n\u00e1jdete inak len v cirkuse. \u013dudia s\u00fa pomerne autentick\u00ed, hoci ich kroje s\u00fa v skuto\u010dnosti v\u00fdsledkom \u0161panielskeho vplyvu po dobyt\u00ed kontinentu. Z predkolumbijskej kult\u00fary im ostali u\u017e len farebn\u00e9 kompoz\u00edcie, n\u00e1mety a symbolika.<\/p>\n

Nakupujeme v\u0161etky mo\u017en\u00e9 veci\u010dky pre seba aj v\u0161etk\u00fdch zn\u00e1mych. Pri kupovan\u00ed sa ani nem\u00e1me pr\u00edli\u0161 chu\u0165 jedna\u0165 o cene. \u013dudia s\u00fa tu tak neuverite\u013ene chudobn\u00ed a ceny tak\u00e9 n\u00edzke, \u017ee s ka\u017ed\u00fdm zjednan\u00fdm Boliviano mi ost\u00e1va na jazyku nepr\u00edjemn\u00e1 pachu\u0165. Majstrovsk\u00e9 diela, ktor\u00e9 by v Eur\u00f3pe stali tis\u00edcky kor\u00fan, pred\u00e1va ich z\u00fafal\u00fd majite\u013e za desa\u0165 dol\u00e1rov. Ke\u010f odmietam, zni\u017euje cenu do absurdn\u00fdch hodn\u00f4t. Nem\u00f4\u017eeme v\u0161ak k\u00fapi\u0165 od v\u0161etk\u00fdch. P\u00e4\u0165desiatro\u010dn\u00fd mu\u017e na m\u0148a e\u0161te dlho bez slova h\u013ead\u00ed, v rozpakoch nevie, \u010do si po\u010da\u0165 s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi pleten\u00fdmi opaskami, ktor\u00e9 dr\u017e\u00ed v ruke. Napokon sa obr\u00e1ti a zhrben\u00fd pomaly odch\u00e1dza. Je bos\u00fd.<\/p>\n

\"Miestnym<\/a>Nasp\u00e4\u0165, v Sucre, sa pok\u00fa\u0161ame posla\u0165 na\u0161e dar\u010deky domov. Po\u0161ta je v\u0161ak \u00faplne pr\u00e1zdna. Ak\u00e1si ochotn\u00e1 pani n\u00e1m vysvet\u013euje, \u017ee po\u0161t\u00e1ri dnes p\u00f4jdu \u0161trajkova\u0165 kv\u00f4li zmene hlavn\u00e9ho mesta; teraz si pripravuj\u00fa transparenty, alebo obeduj\u00fa. Z Bol\u00edvie sa v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inu \u010dasu dok\u00e1\u017eem smia\u0165, ale niekedy mi fakt pr\u00edli\u0161 lezie na nervy. Na po\u0161tu zatia\u013e prich\u00e1dzaj\u00fa a odch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa \u013eudia, ka\u017ed\u00fd si len pokojne vypo\u010duje oznam. Napokon sa n\u00e1m kohosi podar\u00ed presved\u010di\u0165, aby n\u00e1m po obede r\u00e1\u010dili vybavi\u0165 z\u00e1sielku.<\/p>\n

Na n\u00e1mest\u00ed sa zatia\u013e zhroma\u017e\u010fuj\u00fa \u013eudia, op\u00e4\u0165 v\u0161etci pochoduj\u00fa, skanduj\u00fa at\u010f. Sucre m\u00e1 by\u0165 hlavn\u00fdm mestom a dos\u0165. Ako som sa dozvedel v m\u00fazeu, toto nie je len absurdn\u00fd sen. Spory okolo hlavn\u00e9ho mesta vyvrcholili u\u017e v roku 1899 do nesmierne krvavej ob\u010dianskej vojny, v ktorej proti sebe st\u00e1li dve n\u00e1tlakov\u00e9 skupiny, vlastn\u00edci strieborn\u00fdch ban\u00ed z Potos\u00ed a spracov\u00e1vatelia zinku z La Paz. Samozrejme, bojovali za nich t\u00ed najchudobnej\u0161\u00ed, najm\u00e4 indi\u00e1ni, ktor\u00ed uverili, \u017ee vplyv na dianie v krajne bol v tom \u010dase aj ich probl\u00e9mom.<\/p>\n

\"V<\/a>Je \u010das opusti\u0165 Sucre. Na jednej strane je to n\u00e1dhern\u00e9, priate\u013esk\u00e9 mesto, na druhej strane poskytuj\u00fa ulice nesmierne smutn\u00fd poh\u013ead. Je tu mnoho z\u00fafalo chudobn\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed. Na rohoch posed\u00e1vaj\u00fa opusten\u00e9 deti; mo\u017eno dvan\u00e1s\u0165ro\u010dn\u00e9 diev\u010datko, pred\u00e1vaj\u00face kamilky, rodina bezdomovcov, \u017eobraj\u00faca pred na\u0161ou internetovou kaviar\u0148ou. Niektor\u00e9 deti s\u00fa \u00faplne nah\u00e9, silnej\u0161ie \u0161ikanuj\u00fa star\u0161\u00edch. Jedn\u00e9ho d\u0148a \u0161okovan\u00fd sledujem bitku tak\u00fdchto otrhancov. Asi desa\u0165ro\u010dn\u00fd chlapec kope do brucha p\u00e4\u0165ro\u010dn\u00e9 nah\u00e9 diev\u010datko a za\u010dne ju ml\u00e1ti\u0165 p\u00e4s\u0165ami do tv\u00e1re. Die\u0165a o chv\u00ed\u013eku nehybne le\u017e\u00ed uprostred chodn\u00edka, chodci ju prekra\u010duj\u00fa ako kus hovna. Takto vyzer\u00e1 krajina bez soci\u00e1lnej siete, \u013eudia zdivo\u010den\u00ed chudobou a bezn\u00e1dejou, svet, v ktorom m\u00e1 \u013eudsk\u00fd \u017eivot hodnotu toho, \u010do m\u00e1te v pe\u0148a\u017eenke.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb Sucre<\/a><\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Bol\u00edvia<\/a> \u00bb Tarabuco<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V Sucre si kone\u010dne u\u017e\u00edvame teplej\u0161ie po\u010dasie. Le\u017e\u00ed o tis\u00edc metrov ni\u017e\u0161ie ako Potos\u00ed, ulice s\u00fa tu \u010dist\u00e9 a domy kr\u00e1sne zrenovovan\u00e9. V na\u0161om hoteli \u0161krieka rozpr\u00e1vaj\u00faci papag\u00e1j Arara,ulice s\u00fa pln\u00e9 \u013eud\u00ed a v\u0161ade vidie\u0165 n\u00e1dhern\u00e9 farebn\u00e9 pleten\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky od miestnych indi\u00e1nskych kme\u0148ov. Naomi n\u00e1s op\u00fa\u0161\u0165a, Brian ost\u00e1va. Spolu objavujeme \u010fal\u0161ie vegetari\u00e1nske re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, Brian v\u0161ak…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,403,401],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=216"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8126,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/216\/revisions\/8126"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=216"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=216"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=216"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}