![\"Cestou](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/bolivia_cesta.jpg\" "\\"Cestou")
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Na stanicu napokon doraz\u00ed ru\u0161e\u0148 s dvomi staru\u010dk\u00fdmi vag\u00f3nmi. \u013dudia sa in\u0161tinkt\u00edvne rozdelia na gringov a negringov a pod\u013ea toho sa i obsadzuj\u00fa vo\u013en\u00e9 miesta. Vlak sa rozbieha do hnedej, p\u00fa\u0161tnej noci a v\u0161etci sa pripravujeme na s\u013eubovan\u00e9 hrozby.<\/p>\n O \u010fal\u0161iu hodinu jazdy nesk\u00f4r n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 bol\u00edvijsk\u00e1 colnica, \u010fal\u0161ie pe\u010diatky a ak\u00fdsi poplatok, ktor\u00e9ho v\u00fdznam ch\u00e1pe len samotn\u00fd coln\u00edk. Pok\u00fa\u0161ame sa zjes\u0165 a vypi\u0165 na\u0161e z\u00e1soby, no je to bezn\u00e1dejn\u00e9. K\u00fapili sme toho pr\u00edli\u0161 ve\u013ea. Var\u00edm hor\u00faci ko\u0148ak s citr\u00f3nom, \u010dastujeme sa navz\u00e1jom s ostatn\u00fdmi cestuj\u00facimi.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Uyuni<\/a><\/p>\n Pozn\u00e1mky k svetu za poh\u013eadnicou<\/a> \u00bb Rozv\u00edjaj\u00face sa mesto z\u00e1niku (Uyuni 2007)<\/a><\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Na Bol\u00edviu som sa te\u0161il u\u017e doma h\u00e1dam zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho najviac. Pod\u013ea mnoh\u00fdch spr\u00e1v to mala by\u0165 t\u00e1 najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161ia, najdivokej\u0161ia n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 krajina na kontinente. U\u017e na \u017eelezni\u010dnej stanici v \u010d\u00edlskej Calame mi bolo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee bude \u00faplne odli\u0161n\u00e1 ne\u017e \u010doko\u013evek, \u010do sme videli doteraz. V \u010dak\u00e1rni sed\u00edme my \u0161tyria, nieko\u013eko \u010fal\u0161\u00edch turistov a tri desiatky…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[420,403,412,401,303,175,182,344],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=212"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8131,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/212\/revisions\/8131"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=212"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=212"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=212"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"Vo](\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/gallery\/fg_Bolivia\/uyuni\/P7058077.JPG\" "\\"Vo")
<\/a>Na Bol\u00edviu som sa te\u0161il u\u017e doma h\u00e1dam zo v\u0161etk\u00e9ho najviac. Pod\u013ea mnoh\u00fdch spr\u00e1v to mala by\u0165 t\u00e1 najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161ia, najdivokej\u0161ia n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 krajina na kontinente. U\u017e na \u017eelezni\u010dnej stanici v \u010d\u00edlskej Calame mi bolo jasn\u00e9, \u017ee bude \u00faplne odli\u0161n\u00e1 ne\u017e \u010doko\u013evek, \u010do sme videli doteraz. V \u010dak\u00e1rni sed\u00edme my \u0161tyria, nieko\u013eko \u010fal\u0161\u00edch turistov a tri desiatky t\u00fdch najexotickej\u0161\u00edch \u013eud\u00ed, ak\u00fdch som doteraz stretol v ju\u017enej Amerike. S\u00fa to o\u0161\u013eahan\u00ed domorodci ka\u017ed\u00e9ho veku aj pohlavia, s obrovsk\u00fdmi bato\u017einami, od uzl\u00edkov a\u017e po kart\u00f3ny z telev\u00edzorov.<\/p>\n<\/a>Presp\u00edme pokojn\u00fa, pomerne tepl\u00fa noc bez v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch vzruchov, ak ner\u00e1tam fakt, \u017ee vlak mal ak\u00e9si extr\u00e9mne brzdenie a pri ka\u017edom spomalen\u00ed n\u00e1s sp\u00e4tn\u00fd n\u00e1raz v\u0161etk\u00fdch vrhol pol metra zo sedadiel. Na druhej strane, brzdenia a\u017e tak ve\u013ea, na\u0161\u0165astie, nebolo. Vlak i\u0161iel toti\u017e tak pomaly, \u017ee slovo “spomali\u0165” tu celkom str\u00e1ca v\u00fdznam. Za 17 hod\u00edn sme pre\u0161li 377 km, \u010do je priemern\u00e1 r\u00fdchlos\u0165 \u010dosi vy\u0161e 20 km\/h (ak ner\u00e1tame mnohohodinov\u00e9 \u010dakanie).<\/p>\n<\/a>V ka\u017edom pr\u00edpade, r\u00e1no sme napokon predsa len dorazili na \u010d\u00edlske hranice. Vlak tu zastavuje na \u010fal\u0161ie 2-3 hodiny; d\u00e1 sa tak prebehn\u00fa\u0165 po rozpadnutej dedine, v ktorej i napriek tomu e\u0161te \u017eij\u00fa \u013eudia: sved\u010dia o tom nabl\u00fdskan\u00e9 elektromery, tr\u010diace z ru\u00edn. Na hranici stret\u00e1vame \u010fal\u0161ieho Poliaka Ma\u0107ka, ktor\u00fd cestuje po celom kontinente na bicykli, hoci cez hranice prech\u00e1dza rad\u0161ej autobusom. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee n\u00e1\u0161 vlak je oproti jeho ceste \u00fapln\u00fd luxus. Ma\u0107kov autobus pri\u0161iel na zavret\u00fa colnicu v predo\u0161l\u00fd ve\u010der a v\u0161etci cestuj\u00faci str\u00e1vili noc na sedadl\u00e1ch v mrazivej teplote bez ak\u00e9hoko\u013evek ohrievania, \u010dakaj\u00fac na rann\u00fa zmenu coln\u00edkov.<\/p>\n<\/a>Okrem gringov s nami sed\u00ed len jedna star\u00e1 indi\u00e1nka s pribli\u017ene p\u00e4tn\u00e1stimi obrovsk\u00fdmi ta\u0161kami. Ve\u010der mi ich blahosklonne dovolila vylo\u017ei\u0165 na reg\u00e1le a na konci cesty mi ich dovol\u00ed vynies\u0165, samozrejme, bez slovka pros\u00edm a \u010fakujem. Sympatickej \u00cdrke Miriam za to poskytla jednu zo svojich \u0161es\u0165desiatich pokr\u00fdvok. V Bol\u00edvii je v\u0161ak v\u017edy nie\u010do za nie\u010do. Ke\u010f sa r\u00e1no Miriam hanblivo prezlieka, indi\u00e1nka ju po\u017eiada o podprsenku. Miriam odmieta.<\/p>\n<\/a>Po cel\u00fd de\u0148 n\u00e1m cesta pomaly ubieha. Takmer krokovou r\u00fdchlos\u0165ou prech\u00e1dzame cez so\u013en\u00fa p\u00fa\u0161\u0165. Dediny tu vyzeraj\u00fa st\u00e1le hor\u0161ie a hor\u0161ie. \u010casto v nich niet jedin\u00e9ho celistv\u00e9ho domu, v\u0161etko je pokryt\u00e9 prachom. \u013dudia s\u00fa tu \u0161pinav\u00ed a smrad\u013eav\u00ed, bez prestania pre\u017e\u00favaj\u00fa koku. Po cel\u00fd \u010das vrieskaj\u00fa sop\u013eav\u00e9 deti. Ve\u010der, tesne po zotmen\u00ed, sa napokon na horizonte pomaly vyn\u00e1ra \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed p\u00e1s svetiel. Prich\u00e1dzame do na\u0161ej prvej bol\u00edvijskej zast\u00e1vky, mesta Uyuni.<\/p>\n