![\"Salta,](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/gallery\/fg_Argentina\/salta\/zahlavie2.JPG\" "\\"Salta,")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Napokon sme z automobilov\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu nasp\u00e4\u0165 v Salte. U\u017e\u00edvame si miestne vynikaj\u00face pirohy zvan\u00e9 empanadas, ktor\u00e9 tu pe\u010d\u00fa priamo v murovan\u00fdch peciach. Salta je vyhl\u00e1sen\u00fdm regi\u00f3nom na v\u00fdrobu empan\u00e1d, ob\u013e\u00faben\u00fdch v celej ju\u017enej \u010dasti kontinentu. Pec na empanady by sa v\u00fdborne hodila i na pe\u010denie pizze; t\u00e1 je v Argent\u00edne v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou dos\u0165 nechutn\u00e1 a \u017eia\u013ebohu, b\u00fdva okrem \u0161pagiet pre n\u00e1s jedin\u00fdm vegetari\u00e1nskym v\u00fdchodiskom. Ke\u010f sa p\u00fdtam pek\u00e1ra, pre\u010do v peci nepe\u010die pizzu, len poh\u0155davo kr\u00fati hlavou: pizzu? Nem\u00e1me \u010das. Empanady s\u00fa d\u00f4le\u017eitej\u0161ie!<\/p>\n
Stret\u00e1vame sa s nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi \u010dlenmi cestovate\u013eskej siete Hospitality club a Couch Surfing. Pri ve\u010deri a pive si vymie\u0148ame na\u0161e z\u00e1\u017eitky a zoznamujeme sa so zauj\u00edmav\u00fdmi \u013eu\u010fmi. Ist\u00fd \u0160v\u00e9d, ktor\u00e9ho meno si u\u017e nepam\u00e4t\u00e1m, n\u00e1m rozpr\u00e1va o svojom pobyte na Kube. Bol tam presne v tom istom obdob\u00ed, ako my, nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed sp\u00e1val ileg\u00e1lne v s\u00fakromnom dome, vypo\u010d\u00favala ho pol\u00edcia a jeho dom\u00e1ci ho napokon okradli o 250 \u20acuro.<\/p>\n Stefov \u017eivot, to je premiest\u0148ovanie z krajiny do krajiny, z kontinentu na kontinent. Ku koncu dev\u00e4\u0165desiatych rokov b\u00fdval nieko\u013eko mesiacov aj na Slovensku, v Ko\u0161iciach. To je u\u017e ale hist\u00f3ria. Teraz m\u00e1 za sebou Austr\u00e1liu a mnoh\u00e9 in\u00e9 krajiny, ako s\u00e1m hovor\u00ed, v Salte tie\u017e nevydr\u017e\u00ed pr\u00edli\u0161 dlho.<\/p>\n S miestnymi \u010dlenmi sa bav\u00edme o ich \u017eivote a politike. Pre n\u00e1s, Eur\u00f3panov, je zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 dozvedie\u0165 sa viac o vz\u0165ahoch na juhoamerickom kontinente. Sme deti celej na\u0161ej krvavej hist\u00f3rie, dob\u00fdjania sveta a stability, zalo\u017eenej na sk\u00fasenosti zo svetov\u00fdch vojen. Je to zvl\u00e1\u0161tne, \u017ee v inej \u010dasti sveta akoby tento typ historickej pam\u00e4te neexistoval: takmer v\u0161etky krajiny tu udr\u017eiavaj\u00fa so susedmi nepriate\u013esk\u00e9 vz\u0165ahy, diplomacia akoby nefungovala, alebo sl\u00fa\u017eila na zvy\u0161ovanie nap\u00e4tia. Absurdn\u00e1 vojna mali\u010dk\u00e9ho Paraguaju proti obrovskej Braz\u00edlii, Argent\u00edne a Uruguaju, ktor\u00e1 v krajine vyhladila 90% dospelej mu\u017eskej popul\u00e1cie. Vojna medzi Bol\u00edviou a Paraguajom, riaden\u00e1 dvomi znepriatelen\u00fdmi naftov\u00fdmi spolo\u010dnos\u0165ami, kr\u00e1tka vojna medzi Argent\u00ednou a \u010cile, ktor\u00e1 sa za\u010dala sporom o nieko\u013eko zabudnut\u00fdch ostrov\u010dekov v Oh\u0148ovej zemi.<\/p>\n Hovor\u00edme o na\u0161ich, eur\u00f3pskych animozit\u00e1ch a medzisusedsk\u00fdch vtipoch. P\u00fdtam sa jedn\u00e9ho Argent\u00ednca, ak\u00e9 vtipy maj\u00fa oni o \u010cilanoch, ich tradi\u010dn\u00fdch rivaloch. Nech\u00e1pe. Vtipy? My si o nich nerob\u00edme vtipy. My ich len nen\u00e1vid\u00edme.<\/p>\n Napokon odch\u00e1dzame i zo Salty. Vyzer\u00e1 to jednoducho, ale jednoduch\u00e9 to v\u00f4bec nebolo. Horsk\u00e9 sedlo medzi \u010cile a Argent\u00ednou le\u017e\u00ed vo v\u00fd\u0161ke 4.600 m.n.m. a \u010dasto je kv\u00f4li snehu a po\u013eadovici nezjazdn\u00e9.<\/p>\n Zabili sme cel\u00fd de\u0148, takmer ka\u017ed\u00e9mu je zle od \u017eal\u00fadka, a to n\u00e1s e\u0161te \u010dak\u00e1 \u010fal\u0161\u00edch p\u00e4\u0165 hod\u00edn sp\u00e4\u0165, s vyhliadkami, \u017ee zajtra sa cel\u00e1 situ\u00e1cia zopakuje.<\/p>\n Samozrejme, nebola to ich vina. V predo\u0161l\u00fd de\u0148, niekedy po\u010das na\u0161ej cesty, v onom horskom sedle kv\u00f4li po\u013eadovici havarovalo nieko\u013eko kami\u00f3nov. Len nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed pred na\u0161ou cestou na tom istom mieste uviazol podobn\u00fd autobus, pln\u00fd \u013eud\u00ed. Pomoc pri\u0161la takmer neskoro; z\u00e1chran\u00e1ri na\u0161li vn\u00fatri 55 \u0165a\u017eko podchladen\u00fdch cestuj\u00facich v \u0161t\u00e1diu, ke\u010f \u017eivotn\u00e9 funkcie v\u00e4\u010d\u0161iny z nich boli tesne pred kolapsom.<\/p>\n Sch\u00e1dzame dole, pomaly mizne sneh a kon\u010d\u00ed sa i na\u0161e dlh\u00e9 putovanie po n\u00e1dhernej, neuverite\u013ene r\u00f4znorodej a st\u00e1le celkom neobjavenej krajine Argent\u00edna. Pre\u0161li sme ju skrz-naskrz a na\u0161li sme v nej smrte\u013ene kr\u00e1snu pr\u00edrodu, tie najkraj\u0161ie mest\u00e1 na kontinente a priate\u013esk\u00fdch, pohodov\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed, z ktor\u00fdch by sme mnoho e\u0161te niekedy v \u017eivote radi stretli op\u00e4\u0165. Hoci na konci som sa u\u017e napokon z Argent\u00edny aj te\u0161il, hne\u010f \u010fal\u0161ie nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00e9 krajiny n\u00e1m r\u00fdchlo pripomen\u00fa, ak\u00fd vysok\u00fd \u0161tandard mala t\u00e1to krajina, a ak\u00e9 \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 je potom op\u00e4\u0165 si zvyka\u0165 na ka\u017edodenn\u00fd \u017eivot v zaostal\u00fdch andsk\u00fdch \u0161t\u00e1toch.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Salta a okolie<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Napokon sme z automobilov\u00e9ho v\u00fdletu nasp\u00e4\u0165 v Salte. U\u017e\u00edvame si miestne vynikaj\u00face pirohy zvan\u00e9 empanadas, ktor\u00e9 tu pe\u010d\u00fa priamo v murovan\u00fdch peciach. Salta je vyhl\u00e1sen\u00fdm regi\u00f3nom na v\u00fdrobu empan\u00e1d, ob\u013e\u00faben\u00fdch v celej ju\u017enej \u010dasti kontinentu. Pec na empanady by sa v\u00fdborne hodila i na pe\u010denie pizze; t\u00e1 je v Argent\u00edne v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou dos\u0165 nechutn\u00e1 a \u017eia\u013ebohu,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4604,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,409,401,303],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/209"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=209"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/209\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8134,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/209\/revisions\/8134"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4604"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=209"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=209"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=209"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"Justa](\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/gallery\/fg_Argentina\/salta\/P6206759.JPG\" "\\"Justa")
<\/a>V Salte tr\u00e1vime posledn\u00e9 pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 dni v Argent\u00edne. Nikam sa nepon\u00e1h\u013eame, na \u010d\u00edlsku stranu \u00c1nd, kam smerujeme, jazd\u00ed zop\u00e1r autobusov t\u00fd\u017edenne. \u0141ukaszova A\u015bka m\u00e1 probl\u00e9my so \u017eal\u00fadkom, v miestnej nemocnici prech\u00e1dza nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi testami, preto\u017ee oblas\u0165, do ktorej sa v najbli\u017e\u0161om \u010dase vyd\u00e1me, je t\u00fdm posledn\u00fdm miestom, kde by ste chceli ma\u0165 ak\u00e9ko\u013evek zdravotn\u00e9 probl\u00e9my: andsk\u00e9 krajiny od Bol\u00edvie a\u017e po Kolumbiu, chudobn\u00e9 a nestabiln\u00e9. Testy prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa v poriadku, A\u015bka s \u0141ukaszom sa du\u0161uj\u00fa, \u017ee miestna klinika vyzer\u00e1 ove\u013ea lep\u0161ie ne\u017e \u010doko\u013evek, \u010do poznaj\u00fa z domu. Len pre porovnanie, po\u013esk\u00e9 nemocnice vyzeraj\u00fa e\u0161te o \u010dosi hor\u0161ie, ako tie na\u0161e pred Fickovou antireformou.<\/p>\n<\/a>In\u00fd \u010dlen, Holan\u010fan Stef, b\u00fdva moment\u00e1lne v Salte a je t\u00fdm najfanatickej\u0161\u00edm poskytovate\u013eom ubytovania, ak\u00e9ho som stretol. Jeho rekord je 12 cestovate\u013eov naraz, ob\u00fdvaj\u00facich jeho mal\u00fd byt v Amsterdame. Stef m\u00e1 v\u0161ak e\u0161te \u0161okuj\u00facej\u0161ie schopnosti. Po pol hodine na m\u0148a vysype plynul\u00fa…sloven\u010dinu!<\/p>\n<\/a>Presved\u010d\u00edme sa o tom na vlastnej ko\u017ei, ke\u010f 28. j\u00fana sad\u00e1me v\u0161etci do autobusu, absolvujeme p\u00e4\u0165hodinov\u00fa jazdu na vrchol andsk\u00e9ho mas\u00edvu, prech\u00e1dzame kombinovan\u00fdmi sympt\u00f3mami cestovnej choroby z nekone\u010dn\u00fdch serpent\u00edn a choroby z nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky…v\u0161etko len preto, aby n\u00e1s po obede v akomsi pohostinstve poinformovali, \u017ee hrani\u010dn\u00fd priechod je kv\u00f4li poveternostn\u00fdm podmienkam uzavret\u00fd a vraciame sa do Salty.<\/p>\n<\/a>A naozaj: na druh\u00fd de\u0148 op\u00e4\u0165 v\u0161etci sad\u00e1me do autobusu na tie ist\u00e9 miesta, prech\u00e1dzame andsk\u00fdmi k\u013eukat\u00fdmi cestami a so\u013enou planinou, v pohostinstve mikroskopick\u00fd obed a sad\u00e1me do autobusu. Tentoraz sa u\u017e ale na\u0161\u0165astie nevraciame, aj samotn\u00ed \u0161of\u00e9ri s\u00fa si vedom\u00ed toho, \u017ee dnes by s podobn\u00fdmn oznamom asi so zdravou ko\u017eou nevyviazli.<\/p>\n<\/a>Na druh\u00fdkr\u00e1t teda \u0161\u0165astne prech\u00e1dzame horsk\u00e9 sedlo aj argent\u00ednske hranice. Na najvy\u0161\u0161om bode je vskutku \u010dosi vy\u0161e metra snehu, na takejto nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke v\u0161ak cestn\u00e1 \u00fadr\u017eba takmer neexistuje. Prech\u00e1dzame okolo \u010fal\u0161\u00edch dvoch skr\u00ed\u017een\u00fdch kami\u00f3nov, na\u0161\u0165astie, na krajnici. Napokon sch\u00e1dzame na druh\u00fa stranu pohoria. Diev\u010da, sediace pred nami, m\u00e1 v\u00e1\u017enej\u0161ie sympt\u00f3my choroby z nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ky, v istom momente omdlie a \u0161of\u00e9r ju kriesi akousi smrad\u013eavou tekutinou.<\/p>\n