![\"Okolie](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/platforma\/jujuy_uvod.jpg\" "\\"Okolie")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Ka\u017ed\u00fdm kilometrom, ktor\u00fdm sa vz\u010fa\u013eujeme od Patag\u00f3nie m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee po\u010dasie a krajina sa menia smerom k subtropick\u00e9mu p\u00e1smu. Po\u010das dvadsiatich hod\u00edn v autobuse s cie\u013eom mesto Mendoza pr\u00edli\u0161 neustupujeme od chladn\u00fdch h\u00f4r, ale tu, na n\u00ed\u017eine, vidie\u0165 \u010doraz viac zelen\u00fdch stromov. Namiesto stepnej pampy s\u00fa na oboch stran\u00e1ch cesty l\u00e1ny vin\u00edc.<\/p>\n
Vskutku, bl\u00ed\u017eime sa priamo do stredu najch\u00fdrnej\u0161ieho argent\u00ednskeho v\u00ednneho regi\u00f3nu. E\u0161te pred desiatimi rokmi bolo argent\u00ednske v\u00edno pova\u017eovan\u00e9 za podradn\u00e9, no dnes, s pomocou zahrani\u010dn\u00e9ho kapit\u00e1lu a technol\u00f3gi\u00ed sa pomaly \u0161tver\u00e1 na svetov\u00fa \u0161pi\u010dku. V\u00edno u\u017e teraz v kvalite a chuti nezaost\u00e1va za \u010d\u00edlskym (hoci \u010cilania v\u00e1m bud\u00fa tvrdi\u0165 \u010dosi celkom in\u00e9), jedin\u00e9, \u010do mu e\u0161te ch\u00fdba, je v\u0161ak marketing, reput\u00e1cia, ktor\u00e1 ho za\u010dne pred\u00e1va\u0165.<\/p>\n
Mesto Mendoza je vinicami celkom obk\u013e\u00fa\u010den\u00e9. Mo\u017eno ich nav\u0161tevova\u0165 v r\u00e1mci turistick\u00e9ho z\u00e1jazdu, na bicykli, pe\u0161o. Najlep\u0161ie je v\u0161ak so z\u00e1jazdom, lebo ak v ka\u017edej \u201ebodege\u201c ochutn\u00e1te tro\u0161ku, nasp\u00e4\u0165 sa v\u00e1m bude \u0161\u013eapa\u0165 \u0165a\u017eko.My sme nenav\u0161t\u00edvili ani vinice, ani takmer sedemtis\u00edcov\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty vyr\u00e1\u017eaj\u00face dych, ktor\u00e9 sa t\u00fd\u010dia priamo za panor\u00e1mou mesta. Str\u00e1vili sme tu nieko\u013eko upr\u0161an\u00fdch, studen\u00fdch dn\u00ed, po\u010das ktor\u00fdch sme okrem n\u00e1dchy neza\u017eili ni\u010d zauj\u00edmav\u00e9. Na druhej strane, Mendoza je \u00fapln\u00fd raj pre vegetari\u00e1nov: s\u00fa tu vegetari\u00e1nske re\u0161taur\u00e1cie, fastfoody, supermarkety. Napokon sme tu na\u0161li aj vakc\u00edny, nedostupn\u00e9 v ostatn\u00fdch \u010dastiach Argent\u00edny a tak sme ukon\u010dili na\u0161u polro\u010dn\u00fa o\u010dkovaciu k\u00faru. Teraz sme u\u017e zao\u010dkovan\u00ed takmer proti v\u0161etk\u00e9mu a m\u00f4\u017eeme by\u0165 v tomto oh\u013eade celkom pokojn\u00ed, ak ner\u00e1tam \u010fal\u0161ie tis\u00edce chor\u00f4b, ktor\u00e9 na n\u00e1s v\u0161ade \u010d\u00edhaj\u00fa.<\/p>\n
Prich\u00e1dzame do Salty, severoargent\u00ednskeho mesta, vzdialen\u00e9ho od bol\u00edvijsk\u00fdch hran\u00edc sotva nieko\u013eko sto kilometrov. Salta le\u017e\u00ed vzh\u013eadom k rovn\u00edku na \u00farovni ve\u010dne hor\u00faceho Rio de Janeiro a d\u00e1\u017e\u010f je tu ve\u013emi v\u00fdnimo\u010dn\u00fd, hoci jej nadmorsk\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka 1.200 m. jej dovo\u013euje zachov\u00e1va\u0165 si pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, mierne podnebie.<\/p>\n Andy vskutku ur\u010duj\u00fa tv\u00e1r cel\u00e9ho kontinentu, determinuj\u00fa geopolitick\u00e9 s\u00faradnice regi\u00f3nu a ich obyvatelia u\u017e po st\u00e1ro\u010dia so sebou nes\u00fa on\u00e9 \u0161pecifick\u00e9 kult\u00farne rysy, ktor\u00e9 ich odli\u0161uj\u00fa od n\u00ed\u017einn\u00fdch n\u00e1rodov d\u017eungle a stepi.<\/p>\n Napriek teplej\u0161iemu po\u010dasiu, prechladnutie mi kone\u010dne naplno prepuklo a po slne\u010dn\u00fdch uliciach Salty chod\u00edm naobliekan\u00fd ako m\u00famia. V Salte nach\u00e1dzame v\u00fdborn\u00e9 jedlo a priate\u013esk\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed. Povedal by som, \u017ee je to jedno z najpr\u00edjemnej\u0161\u00edch miest, ktor\u00e9 sme zatia\u013e v Argent\u00edne nav\u0161t\u00edvili. \u017divot tu plynie \u00faplne inak, ako v chladnej, turistickej Patag\u00f3nii, v\u00edno te\u010die pr\u00fadom a stredo\u0161kol\u00e1ci v povinn\u00fdch bielych pl\u00e1\u0161\u0165och vysed\u00e1vaj\u00fa v palmovom par\u010d\u00edku na hlavnom n\u00e1mest\u00ed.<\/p>\n Hne\u010f v prv\u00fd de\u0148 zaparkujeme auto na p\u00fa\u0161tnej ceste a prech\u00e1dzame nieko\u013eko sto metrov k \u010derveno-\u017elt\u00fdm kopcom. M\u00e1m pln\u00fd nos, zap\u00e1len\u00e9 hrdlo a lomcuje mnou hor\u00fa\u010dka; vzduch je pln\u00fd hor\u00faceho piesku a prachu a dus\u00edm sa \u010doraz viac. Naokolo m\u0148a je v\u0161ak snov\u00e1 krajina Salvadora Dal\u00edho, farebn\u00e9 hory, pripom\u00ednaj\u00face mestsk\u00e9 \u0161trukt\u00fary, pichlia\u010de kaktusov a slne\u010dn\u00fd svit, vzdu\u0161n\u00e9 v\u00edry dv\u00edhaj\u00fa piesok vysoko nad na\u0161e hlavy.<\/p>\n V predposledn\u00fd de\u0148 e\u0161te nav\u0161t\u00edvime so\u013en\u00fa planinu Salinas Grandes; so\u013e sa tu \u0165a\u017e\u00ed priamo z povrchu, v podobe so\u013en\u00e9ho piesku, pripom\u00ednaj\u00faceho sneh. Meste\u010dko San Antonio de los Cobres, vzdialen\u00e9 odtia\u013e dve hodiny po \u0161trkovom p\u00e1se, sa sklad\u00e1 z hned\u00fdch hlinen\u00fdch domov; pripom\u00edna mesto duchov, neby\u0165 k\u0155d\u013ea det\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 sa n\u00e1m sna\u017eia vrhn\u00fa\u0165 pod koles\u00e1, v snahe z\u00edska\u0165 mincu, \u010di preda\u0165 ak\u00e9si pleten\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky. Provincia, v ktorej sa nach\u00e1dzame, patr\u00ed k najchudobnej\u0161\u00edm v celej Argent\u00edne.<\/p>\n A pritom cez mesto prech\u00e1dzaj\u00fa ko\u013eaje turistick\u00e9ho vl\u00e1\u010dika, pomaly zan\u00e1\u0161an\u00e9 prachom. Dr\u00e1hu sa mo\u017eno podar\u00ed za rok-dva opravi\u0165, mestu to v\u0161ak nepom\u00f4\u017ee. Kto by tu vyst\u00fapil? Turistov nezauj\u00edma p\u00e1r desiatok indi\u00e1nskych dom\u010dekov a ch\u00e1traj\u00faca benz\u00ednov\u00e1 stanica. Ich peniaze ostan\u00fa vo vreck\u00e1ch turistick\u00fdch kancel\u00e1ri\u00ed a re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed v Salte.<\/p>\n Ot\u00e1\u010dame auto a opatrne sa vraciame nasp\u00e4\u0165, len na chv\u00ed\u013eu sa zdvihne hmla a na druhej strane \u00fazkeho ka\u0148onu zazriem \u00fazku, tajomn\u00fa cestu, str\u00e1caj\u00facu sa v skalnom mas\u00edve. Touto by u\u017e nepre\u0161lo nijak\u00e9 auto; kr\u00e1\u010da po nej v\u0161ak Indi\u00e1n, zahalen\u00fd v hrubom pon\u010de a \u0161irokom \u010diernom klob\u00faku, jeho n\u00e1klad nes\u00fa dve lamy. Cesta smeruje do e\u0161te vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch h\u00f4r, na miesta, ktor\u00e9 u\u017e zrejme nikdy neuvid\u00edm, hoci by som r\u00e1d.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Salta a okolie<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Ka\u017ed\u00fdm kilometrom, ktor\u00fdm sa vz\u010fa\u013eujeme od Patag\u00f3nie m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee po\u010dasie a krajina sa menia smerom k subtropick\u00e9mu p\u00e1smu. Po\u010das dvadsiatich hod\u00edn v autobuse s cie\u013eom mesto Mendoza pr\u00edli\u0161 neustupujeme od chladn\u00fdch h\u00f4r, ale tu, na n\u00ed\u017eine, vidie\u0165 \u010doraz viac zelen\u00fdch stromov. Namiesto stepnej pampy s\u00fa na oboch stran\u00e1ch cesty l\u00e1ny vin\u00edc. Vskutku, bl\u00ed\u017eime sa…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4612,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[125,409,412,401,303],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/208"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=208"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/208\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8135,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/208\/revisions\/8135"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4612"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=208"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=208"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=208"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}<\/a>14. j\u00fana kone\u010dne odch\u00e1dzame z Mendozy \u010falej na sever, do teplej\u0161\u00edch oblast\u00ed. To, \u017ee mierime do celkom in\u00e9ho prostredia, n\u00e1m je jasn\u00e9 u\u017e v autobuse. Sme tu jedin\u00ed turisti a takmer jedin\u00ed belosi. V\u0161ade okolo n\u00e1s sa to hem\u017e\u00ed \u00fazem\u010dist\u00fdmi indi\u00e1nmi, ich buc\u013eat\u00fdmi de\u0165mi a pestrofarebn\u00fdmi pokr\u00fdvkami. Kde-tu po\u010du\u0165 \u0161paniel\u010dinu, no \u010doraz viac \u013eud\u00ed rozpr\u00e1va jazykom quechua. Na d\u00f4va\u017eok, na poslednej zast\u00e1vke, ke\u010f na p\u00e4\u0165 min\u00fat v\u0161etci vyjdeme z autobusu, mi niekto ukradne vetrovku. O chv\u00ed\u013eu ju nach\u00e1dzam d\u00f4kladne ukryt\u00fa pod sedadlom domorodej \u017eeny v strednom veku, ktor\u00e1 sed\u00ed predo mnou. Bola to ona? Pochybujem. Podozrievam sk\u00f4r mlad\u00e9ho (\u201ebieleho\u201c!) stewarda, ktor\u00fd na zast\u00e1vke upratoval pr\u00e1zdny autobus, no d\u00f4kaz na to nem\u00e1m. Takto, bez istoty, ho nem\u00f4\u017eem po\u010dastova\u0165 ani len uk\u00e1\u017ekovou modrinou pod \u013eav\u00fdm okom.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Op\u00e4\u0165 sa teda vraciame k And\u00e1m. Toto u\u017e v\u0161ak nie s\u00fa \u013eadov\u00e9, strm\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty Patag\u00f3nie. Tu sa za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa Andy, ako ich poznaj\u00fa v stredoz\u00e1padnej \u010dasti Ju\u017enej Ameriky: hol\u00e9, obl\u00e9 vulkanick\u00e9 kopce, porasten\u00e9 nanajv\u00fd\u0161 kr\u00edkmi a kaktusmi, ktor\u00e9 pomaly, no neodvolate\u013ene st\u00fapaj\u00fa k nadmorsk\u00fdm v\u00fd\u0161kam, o ak\u00fdch sa Eur\u00f3pe ani nesn\u00edva. U\u017e 100km na sever od Salty sa po\u013eahky prehupnete autom cez sedlo, siahaj\u00face 4.200 m.n.m. Ve\u013ek\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 Bol\u00edvie vr\u00e1tane jej hlavn\u00e9ho mesta sa nach\u00e1dza na n\u00e1horn\u00fdch planin\u00e1ch v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke 4.000 m. a viac, podobne severn\u00e9 \u010cile, Peru, \u010das\u0165 Ekv\u00e1doru.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dva dni po na\u0161om pr\u00edchode pricestovali aj na\u0161i po\u013esk\u00ed kamar\u00e1ti \u0141ukasz a A\u015bka, ktor\u00fdch sme na za\u010diatku m\u00e1ja stretli v ju\u017enej Patag\u00f3nii. Na\u0161a slovensko-po\u013esk\u00e1 banda tak vyr\u00e1\u017ea 21. j\u00fana 2007 prenajat\u00fdm autom na pra\u0161n\u00e9 cesty severnej Argent\u00edny. Po\u010das \u0161tyroch dn\u00ed nav\u0161tevujeme miesta, kde niet turistov, kde niet takmer v\u00f4bec nijak\u00fdch \u013eud\u00ed a cez ktor\u00e9 vedie \u010dosi, \u010do by ste nazvali cestou len s ve\u013ek\u00fdm nadh\u013eadom. T\u00e1to \u010das\u0165 kontinentu je ak\u00e1si p\u00fa\u0161\u0165: hned\u00fd prach, kde-tu gigantick\u00e9 kaktusy a v\u0161ade naokolo neskuto\u010dn\u00e9, pestrofarebn\u00e9 vyprahnut\u00e9 hory z hliny a miner\u00e1lov. Prech\u00e1dzame \u0161trkov\u00fdmi cestami pln\u00fdmi dier a kame\u0148ov, pla\u0161\u00edme st\u00e1da l\u00e1m a oviec. Deti v indi\u00e1nskych dedink\u00e1ch uprostred p\u00fa\u0161te n\u00e1s pozoruj\u00fa ako mimozem\u0161\u0165anov, ak pr\u00e1ve ne\u017eobr\u00fa cukr\u00edky a mince.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Zast\u00e1vky na na\u0161ej ceste nes\u00fa melodick\u00e9 n\u00e1zvy ako Cafayate, Humahuaca, Jujuy. Z p\u00fa\u0161te prech\u00e1dzame na vrecholky \u00c1nd, chladn\u00e9 a hol\u00e9. Nadmorsk\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka 4.200 m. je dos\u0165 seri\u00f3zna na to, aby v\u00e1m bez aklimatiz\u00e1cie sp\u00f4sobila do\u010dasn\u00e9 zdravotn\u00e9 probl\u00e9my: sch\u00e1dzame nasp\u00e4\u0165, s tlkotom srdca, b\u00fa\u0161iacim n\u00e1m a\u017e kdesi v hlave od prudkej zmeny tlaku.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Napokon, posledn\u00fdm miestom na na\u0161ej ceste je dedinka Iruya. Ned\u00e1 sa sem dosta\u0165 \u013eahko: vedie sem cesta najhor\u0161ia z najhor\u0161\u00edch, kr\u00ed\u017eia ju potoky, pln\u00e1 serpent\u00edn a nebezpe\u010dn\u00fdch priepast\u00ed, cez horsk\u00e9 priesmyky, vrstvy hmly a oblakov. Pri pren\u00e1jme auta sme museli agentke s\u013e\u00fabi\u0165, \u017ee sem sa nevyberieme…Iruya sa nach\u00e1dza na strmom kamennom zr\u00e1ze, je tu vlhko a chlad, ve\u010dn\u00e9 oblaky, okolit\u00e9 hory ju tienia pred slnkom takmer po cel\u00fd de\u0148. Komu to v\u0161ak prek\u00e1\u017ea? Kdesi v h\u013abke, na dne priepasti, je e\u0161te futbalov\u00e9 ihrisko pln\u00e9 \u0161kol\u00e1kov, hra je pr\u00e1ve v plnom pr\u00fade.<\/p>\n