![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/gallery\/fg_Patagonia\/navimag\/zahlavie.jpg\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Lo\u010f m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 skuto\u010dne v\u00fdborn\u00fd sp\u00f4sob, ako prejs\u0165 z Ju\u017enej Patag\u00f3nie na sever, t\u00fdm sk\u00f4r, \u017ee t\u00e1to \u010das\u0165 \u010d\u00edlskeho pobre\u017eia je nesmierne zauj\u00edmav\u00e1. Puerto Eden je dlh\u00e1 113 a \u0161irok\u00e1 20 metrov, patr\u00ed spolo\u010dnosti Navimag a sama osebe je ur\u010den\u00e1 sk\u00f4r pre tovar, ne\u017e pre pasa\u017eierov. \u010cile je tak\u00e9 \u00fazke a jeho ju\u017en\u00e9 pobre\u017eie tak\u00e9 rozdroben\u00e9 na desiatky ostrovov, \u017ee Puerto Eden je priam ide\u00e1lny dopravn\u00fd prostriedok. Cesty tu prakticky neexistuj\u00fa a na\u0161a lo\u010f je dostato\u010dne mal\u00e1 na to, aby sa pretisla nespo\u010detn\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi \u00fa\u017einami, no dos\u0165 ve\u013ek\u00e1 na to, aby odolala povestn\u00fdm pacifick\u00fdm b\u00farkam na \u00fasekoch, vzdialenej\u0161\u00edch od pobre\u017eia.<\/p>\n
Prv\u00fd de\u0148 sa v\u0161etci zob\u00fadzame pln\u00ed o\u010dak\u00e1vania. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina turistickej \u010dasti pasa\u017eierov sme Eur\u00f3pania: Nemecko, Holandsko, \u0160vaj\u010diarsko, \u00cdrsko a my. V lete s\u00fa ceny l\u00edstkov nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t vy\u0161\u0161ie (hoci i teraz siahaj\u00fa nieko\u013eko stoviek dol\u00e1rov), tak\u017ee napokon m\u00f4\u017eeme by\u0165 radi; okrem toho, spolo\u010dnos\u0165 n\u00e1m pripravila pr\u00edjemn\u00e9 prekvapenie v podobe zv\u00fd\u0161enia cestovnej triedy na najluxusnej\u0161iu, ke\u010f\u017ee sme len \u0161trn\u00e1sti turisti a kapacita lode je 225 pasa\u017eierov.<\/p>\n
V cene l\u00edstka je i strava, stret\u00e1vame sa na ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch v jed\u00e1lni. Jedlo je pr\u00edjemn\u00e9, za oknami sa pomaly rozodnieva a po oboch stran\u00e1ch lode sa zafarbuj\u00fa obrysy strm\u00fdch skaln\u00fdch brehov. Vonku, v zadnej \u010dasti, stoj\u00ed desa\u0165 kami\u00f3nov, pln\u00fdch kr\u00e1v. Ke\u010f ich pozorujem, pomaly mi prech\u00e1dza chu\u0165 na jedlo. S\u00fa natla\u010den\u00e9 vo vle\u010dk\u00e1ch bez mo\u017enosti pohybu, zrejme to nie je ich prv\u00fd de\u0148 na ceste a v najbli\u017e\u0161om \u010dase ich \u010dakaj\u00fa e\u0161te hor\u0161ie chv\u00edle.<\/p>\n
Hne\u010f po ra\u0148ajk\u00e1ch, presne pod\u013ea programu, vych\u00e1dza slnko. Na palube veje mocn\u00fd vietor, i napriek tomu v\u0161ak stoj\u00edme nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn vonku a s \u00fa\u017easom sledujeme krajinu, ktorou prech\u00e1dzame. V\u0161ade naokolo s\u00fa hory a lesy. Vyrastaj\u00fa priamo z \u013eadov\u00e9ho, tmavomodr\u00e9ho mora ako mal\u00e9 i v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ie ostrovy.<\/p>\n
Z vody najprv vych\u00e1dza hol\u00e1 hned\u00e1 skala, no u\u017e jeden-dva metre vy\u0161\u0161ie sa za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa stromy. Obrastaj\u00fa v\u0161etky strm\u00e9 \u00fap\u00e4tia; hust\u00e9, pokr\u00faten\u00e9 da\u017e\u010fov\u00e9 pralesy chladnej Patag\u00f3nie. Ustupuj\u00fa len snehu a \u013eadovcom stovky metrov vy\u0161\u0161ie. Ka\u017ed\u00fd z t\u00fdchto ostrovov je s\u00e1m osebe v\u00fdzvou pre alpinistu.<\/p>\n
V dia\u013eke prech\u00e1dza st\u00e1do delf\u00ednov a mizne za \u010fal\u0161\u00edmi ostrovn\u00fdmi prieplavmi. Na\u013eavo, napravo, pred nami – v\u0161ade s\u00fa tu len ramen\u00e1 medzi zaplaven\u00fdmi horsk\u00fdmi mas\u00edvmi, ktor\u00fdch doliny sa s rozt\u00e1paj\u00facimi \u013eadovcami pred desa\u0165tis\u00edc rokmi stali obe\u0165ou zvy\u0161uj\u00facej sa hladiny mor\u00ed.<\/p>\n
Takto som si v\u017edy predstavoval divo\u010dinu: chladn\u00fa, hornat\u00fa, opusten\u00fa. Na t\u00fdchto miestach lovili e\u0161te Yaman\u00e1 s lukmi a \u0161\u00edpmi; pre belochov boli pr\u00edli\u0161 nepr\u00edstupn\u00e9 a nebolo tu ni\u010d, \u010do by im st\u00e1lo za n\u00e1mahu a ni\u010denie. V\u00f4bec by som teraz nedbal vyst\u00fapi\u0165 na jednom z v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch ostrovov a na nieko\u013eko t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148ov osta\u0165 v lesoch, pri ohnisk\u00e1ch a machom obrasten\u00fdch skal\u00e1ch, len tak, pok\u00fasi\u0165 sa zazrie\u0165 patag\u00f3nsku pumu a v stane sa te\u0161i\u0165 z hmly a da\u017e\u010fa.<\/p>\n
Ale ni\u010d pekn\u00e9 netrv\u00e1 dlho. Prich\u00e1dza hust\u00e1 obla\u010dnos\u0165, mraky s\u00fa tak n\u00edzko, \u017ee celkom spl\u00fdvaj\u00fa s morskou hladinou. Za\u010d\u00edna pr\u0161a\u0165 a sch\u00e1dzame do jed\u00e1lne, kde sa za\u010d\u00edna improvizovan\u00e9 kino.<\/p>\n
Bohu\u017eia\u013e, na\u0161a \u0161tvord\u0148ov\u00e1 plavba na sever bude v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou vyzera\u0165 presne takto. Vonku nulov\u00e1 vidite\u013enos\u0165, sneh alebo d\u00e1\u017e\u010f, sed\u00edme v jed\u00e1lni a pozer\u00e1me dokument\u00e1rne filmy. Jedin\u00e9 rozpt\u00fdlenie prich\u00e1dza na tret\u00ed de\u0148. Na istom dlh\u0161om \u00faseku sa plav\u00edme po otvorenom mori. Hmla sa na chv\u00ed\u013eu zdvihne, v\u0161ade okolo n\u00e1s pl\u00e1vu<\/span> ve\u013eryby. S\u00fa to ale hanbliv\u00e9 tvory a svoju pr\u00edtomnos\u0165 ohlasuj\u00fa len gejz\u00edrmi vody z chrbtov\u00fdch otvorov; z \u010dasu na \u010das sa na hladine mihne ich mohutn\u00e9 telo.<\/p>\n Skuto\u010dn\u00fa z\u00e1bavu n\u00e1m prinesie a\u017e morsk\u00e1 choroba o nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn nesk\u00f4r, ke\u010f si vlny za\u010dn\u00fa pohadzova\u0165 na\u0161u lo\u010f ako plastov\u00e9 k\u00e1\u010datko. Cel\u00e9 to za\u010dne \u0160vaj\u010diarka Claudia. Claudia je die\u0165a h\u00f4r; vraca\u0165 za\u010dne pri prvom n\u00e1znaku vlnobitia a neprestane a\u017e takmer do konca. Hoci sa napokon uk\u00e1zalo, \u017ee Claudia je vo forme a tot\u00e1lnym \u0161ampi\u00f3nom grcania, \u010doskoro ju so slab\u0161\u00edmi \u010di silnej\u0161\u00edmi pr\u00edznakmi nasleduje v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina z n\u00e1s.<\/p>\n \u013dudia sa pomaly vytr\u00e1caj\u00fa do kaj\u00fat, alebo von, na palubu. Nikoho u\u017e nezauj\u00edma kino ani rozhovory. E\u0161te pred polhodinou som si srandoval z \u00cdra Briana, \u010di s\u00fa jeho tabletky naozaj proti morskej chorobe, preto\u017ee vyzeraj\u00fa ako ext\u00e1za. Teraz bezvl\u00e1dne le\u017e\u00edm v kresle a Brian si sranduje zo m\u0148a. On a Justyna s\u00fa jedin\u00ed dvaja \u013eudia, ktor\u00ed sa spr\u00e1vaj\u00fa, akoby ni\u010d.Nevl\u00e1dzem chodi\u0165 ani rozpr\u00e1va\u0165, nevl\u00e1dzem ani zvraca\u0165. Justyna ma \u0161tve pozn\u00e1mkami, ak\u00fd v\u00fdborn\u00fd bol obed a ak\u00e1 je to \u0161koda, \u017ee som neochutnal. Napokon sa vytack\u00e1m na palubu. Ka\u0161lem na ve\u013eryby aj na v\u0161etko ostatn\u00e9, poh\u013ead m\u00e1m tupo upret\u00fd na horizont: vraj to pom\u00e1ha.<\/p>\n Moja najkraj\u0161ia spomienka na plavbu Navimagom sa v\u0161ak i tak via\u017ee na on\u00fdch nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn, str\u00e1ven\u00fdch v ten de\u0148 na palube. Vietor a d\u00e1\u017e\u010f bi\u010duje zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch str\u00e1n, lo\u010f sa preva\u013euje na vln\u00e1ch. Napriek tomu tam stoj\u00edm aj po zotmen\u00ed spolu s Pablom, mlad\u00fdm \u010cilanom a bud\u00facim \u0161tudentom filozofie. Bav\u00edme sa o filozofii a literat\u00fare; Pablo je pln\u00fd el\u00e1nu pre \u0161t\u00fadium, ob\u00e1va sa v\u0161ak, \u010di u\u010ditelia na univerzite stoja za to. Ja som mal, naopak, po\u010das m\u00f4jho \u0161t\u00fadia neust\u00e1le pocit, \u017ee ak niekto nestoj\u00ed za to, s\u00fa to najm\u00e4 \u0161tudenti. S na\u0161imi u\u010dite\u013emi som sk\u00f4r s\u00fac\u00edtil. Pablovi v\u0161ak nechcem kazi\u0165 chu\u0165. Obaja sa dr\u017e\u00edme z\u00e1bradlia, ku ktor\u00e9mu n\u00e1m u\u017e takmer primrzli ruky, vytrvalo h\u013ead\u00edme na obzor a diskutujeme o dekon\u0161trukcii. Nad\u00e1vame na morsk\u00fa chorobu a v\u010faka tomu celkom zab\u00fadame, \u017ee m\u00e1me morsk\u00fa chorobu. V posledn\u00fa noc rob\u00edme na lodi p\u00e1rty; kdesi medzi bingom a \u010fal\u0161ou f\u013ea\u0161ou v\u00fdborn\u00e9ho \u010d\u00edlskeho v\u00edna vych\u00e1dzam na horn\u00fa palubu. Kravy s\u00fa st\u00e1le v kami\u00f3noch; mnoh\u00e9 nehybne le\u017eia na podlahe. Stav, v akom sa nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa po \u0161tyroch d\u0148och a desa\u0165hodinovom vlnobit\u00ed, je vskutku desiv\u00fd. Naproti n\u00e1m sa zatia\u013e zv\u00e4\u010d\u0161uje re\u0165azec svetiel, pomaly sa meniaci na mesto. V noci na 4. j\u00fana teda napokon prir\u00e1\u017eame k pobre\u017en\u00e9mu mestu Puerto Montt. Prekonali sme okolo 1.500 kilometrov a morsk\u00e1 choroba ma neopustila a\u017e do konca.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Z\u00e1padn\u00e9 patag\u00f3nske pobre\u017eie<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Lo\u010f m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165 skuto\u010dne v\u00fdborn\u00fd sp\u00f4sob, ako prejs\u0165 z Ju\u017enej Patag\u00f3nie na sever, t\u00fdm sk\u00f4r, \u017ee t\u00e1to \u010das\u0165 \u010d\u00edlskeho pobre\u017eia je nesmierne zauj\u00edmav\u00e1. Puerto Eden je dlh\u00e1 113 a \u0161irok\u00e1 20 metrov, patr\u00ed spolo\u010dnosti Navimag a sama osebe je ur\u010den\u00e1 sk\u00f4r pre tovar, ne\u017e pre pasa\u017eierov. \u010cile je tak\u00e9 \u00fazke a jeho ju\u017en\u00e9 pobre\u017eie tak\u00e9…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[420,401,171,103],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/202"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=202"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/202\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8138,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/202\/revisions\/8138"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=202"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=202"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=202"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.happy2travel.eu\/gallery\/fg_Patagonia\/navimag\/P6046246.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\n