![\"zahlavie8.JPG\"](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2007\/05\/zahlavie8.JPG\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Ak sa chceme dosta\u0165 do Ushuaia, mus\u00edme e\u0161te prejs\u0165 viac ako sedemsto kilometrov a \u0161irok\u00fd p\u00e1s \u010d\u00ed\u013eskeho \u00fazemia. Autobus u\u017e nie je tak\u00fd luxusn\u00fd, ako je v Argent\u00edne zvykom, ale \u0161of\u00e9ri rovnako priate\u013esk\u00ed a ost\u00e1va i atmosf\u00e9ra dom\u00e1cej ob\u00fdva\u010dky, v ktorej pozer\u00e1me pir\u00e1tske k\u00f3pie najnov\u0161\u00edch filmov na DVD.<\/p>\n Prech\u00e1dzame hrani\u010dn\u00e9 kontroly oboch \u0161t\u00e1tov, Argent\u00edny aj \u010cile. Cesta pret\u00edna nekone\u010dn\u00fa pl\u00e1\u0148 Patag\u00f3nie: bez stromov a vy\u0161\u0161ej veget\u00e1cie, horizont ru\u0161ia len kr\u00edky a skaly, \u010di ob\u010dasn\u00e9 hol\u00e9 pahorky. Na \u010d\u00edlskej colnici obhr\u00fdza siv\u00e1 l\u00ed\u0161ka pohoden\u00fd hamburger len nieko\u013eko metrov od n\u00e1s a st\u00e1da guanaco ubiehaj\u00fa pred autobusom z cesty sp\u00e4\u0165 na zasne\u017een\u00e9 krajnice. Krajina okolo n\u00e1s je neskuto\u010dne pust\u00e1 a nehostinn\u00e1; dokonca i cesta a zriedkav\u00e9 m\u00ed\u0148aj\u00face n\u00e1s auto vyzeraj\u00fa, akoby tu r\u00e1stli spolu s kame\u0148mi a zvieratami, akoby im toto miesto od\u0148alo ich umel\u00fd, civiliza\u010dn\u00fd p\u00f4vod.<\/p>\n Autobus pokra\u010duje v ceste, na obrazovke sa pomaly menia titulky a v\u00ed\u0165azosl\u00e1vna hudba sa i na\u010falej celkom absurdne rinie z reproduktorov. Tv\u00e1r kri\u010diaceho diev\u010da\u0165a sa v momente n\u00e1razu nach\u00e1dzala nieko\u013eko centimetrov od okna, z ktor\u00e9ho je teraz u\u017e len ve\u013ek\u00e1 zubat\u00e1 diera, vh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00faca dovn\u00fatra \u013eadov\u00fd vzduch. Jej spolusediaci ju zr\u00e1\u017ea smerom k n\u00e1m, na prav\u00fa stranu, a posledn\u00e9 kusy skla kolapsuj\u00fa na sedadl\u00e1, kde doteraz sedeli. Mu\u017e za\u010d\u00edna kopa\u0165 do zamknut\u00fdch dver\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 n\u00e1s odde\u013euj\u00fa od kab\u00edny a \u0161of\u00e9r sa zo sedadla pokojne obr\u00e1ti smerom k n\u00e1m. Na tv\u00e1ri m\u00e1 krv a \u010derven\u00e1 farba mu presakuje aj cez tenk\u00fa bielu ko\u0161e\u013eu. A\u017e teraz si v\u0161\u00edmam, \u017ee cel\u00e9 jeho bo\u010dn\u00e9 okno kdesi zmizlo, predn\u00e1 tabu\u013ea je pln\u00e1 pavu\u010d\u00edn a roztrhalo i sklenen\u00fa prep\u00e1\u017eku za jeho hlavou.<\/p>\n Autobus postupne spoma\u013euje. Diev\u010da s krikom vybieha na krajnicu. Jej priate\u013e jej hlavu a tv\u00e1r \u010dist\u00ed od skla, potom ju e\u0161te asi desa\u0165 sek\u00fand ute\u0161uje a vy\u0165ahuje kameru, aby videla aj rodina a kamar\u00e1ti.<\/p>\n Rozbit\u00fdm autobusom sa vraciame pomaly nasp\u00e4\u0165, smerom k hraniciam s Argent\u00ednou. Cez rozbit\u00e9 okn\u00e1 previeva zimn\u00fd vietor, nad polop\u00fa\u0161\u0165ou vych\u00e1dza neskor\u00e9 slnko a biely svet okolo zalieva n\u00e1dhern\u00fdm jasom. Autobus napokon prich\u00e1dza k stojacemu kami\u00f3nu, objavuj\u00fa sa policajti, no my sa poh\u00fd\u0148ame \u010falej, k colnici.<\/p>\n Na poslednom p\u00e4\u0165kilometrovom \u00faseku e\u0161te m\u00ed\u0148ame \u010fal\u0161ie dve zrazen\u00e9 aut\u00e1, op\u00e4\u0165 kami\u00f3n, tentoraz s dod\u00e1vkou. Po\u013eadovica v\u0161ak u\u017e pomaly z vozovky mizne.<\/p>\n Po istom \u010dase prich\u00e1dza kami\u00f3n, s ktor\u00fdm sme sa zrazili. A\u017e teraz vid\u00edme, \u010do sa stalo, a najm\u00e4, \u010do sa mohlo sta\u0165. \u0164aha\u010du ch\u00fdba len mas\u00edvne \u013eav\u00e9 sp\u00e4tn\u00e9 zrkadlo, pr\u00edves m\u00e1 v\u0161ak zdemolovan\u00fa zadn\u00fa n\u00e1pravu a na oce\u013eovej stene pr\u00edvesu je dlh\u00fd prelia\u010den\u00fd p\u00e1s, miesto, ktor\u00e9 pri zr\u00e1\u017eke prerazilo okn\u00e1 a ktor\u00e9 mohlo prerazi\u0165 hlavu diev\u010da\u0165a, keby pr\u00e1ve n\u00e1hodou driemala a opierala sa o okno.<\/p>\n A e\u0161te jedno. Pr\u00edves je cisterna. Cisterna, pln\u00e1 benz\u00ednu. Prelia\u010dina v jej stene mierne po\u0161kodila i n\u00e1pis s n\u00e1zvom petrochemick\u00e9ho z\u00e1vodu, rozm\u00fd\u0161\u013eam, \u010do by sa stalo, keby ho po\u0161kodila viac. Keby sa benz\u00edn vylial, keby sme sa prevr\u00e1tili. Keby sa niekomu nie\u010do stalo…keby…<\/p>\n Nech je, ako chce: po \u010dase prich\u00e1dza n\u00e1hradn\u00fd autobus, nasad\u00e1me, v\u0161etci bez slova a v\u0161etci na prav\u00fa stranu. Autobus sa rozbieha; z\u00e1stupcovi \u0161of\u00e9ra spadne z r\u00fak kovov\u00e1 krabica s filmami a v\u0161etci sa od \u013eaku strhneme. V\u0161etci okrem jednej ni\u010d netu\u0161iacej turistky, ktor\u00e1 pr\u00e1ve prist\u00fapila a sadla si presne na to ist\u00e9 miesto, na ktorom sa v predo\u0161lom autobuse n\u00f3rske pehav\u00e9 diev\u010da zrazu prudko obr\u00e1tilo k svojmu bradat\u00e9mu priate\u013eovi.<\/p>\n Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u2265 Argent\u00edna<\/a> \u2265 Cesta do Oh\u0148ovej zeme a Magalhaesov prieplav<\/a><\/p>\n Cestovanie na juh 16. m\u00e1ja op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame oblas\u0165 Ju\u017en\u00e9ho \u013eadov\u00e9ho po\u013ea, o tretej r\u00e1no spolu s na\u0161imi po\u013esk\u00fdmi kamar\u00e1tmi nasad\u00e1me do “lok\u00e1lneho” autobusu a prekon\u00e1vame n\u00edm okolo 300 kilometrov, \u010do je v Patag\u00f3nii smie\u0161ne kr\u00e1tka vzdialenos\u0165. Op\u00e4\u0165 na n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 nev\u013e\u00fadne Rio Gallegos so svojou autobusovou stanicou. Tu sa l\u00fa\u010dime s \u0141ukaszom a A\u015bkou, ktor\u00ed pokra\u010duj\u00fa…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[409,420,401,171],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=180"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8141,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180\/revisions\/8141"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=180"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=180"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=180"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"Brie\u017edenie](\"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/gallery2\/d\/9834-1\/P5164653.JPG?g2_GALLERYSID=TMP_SESSION_ID_DI_NOISSES_PMT\" "\\"Brie\u017edenie")
<\/a>16. m\u00e1ja op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame oblas\u0165 Ju\u017en\u00e9ho \u013eadov\u00e9ho po\u013ea, o tretej r\u00e1no spolu s na\u0161imi po\u013esk\u00fdmi kamar\u00e1tmi nasad\u00e1me do “lok\u00e1lneho” autobusu a prekon\u00e1vame n\u00edm okolo 300 kilometrov, \u010do je v Patag\u00f3nii smie\u0161ne kr\u00e1tka vzdialenos\u0165. Op\u00e4\u0165 na n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 nev\u013e\u00fadne Rio Gallegos so svojou autobusovou stanicou. Tu sa l\u00fa\u010dime s \u0141ukaszom a A\u015bkou, ktor\u00ed pokra\u010duj\u00fa vo svojich tajomn\u00fdch kruhoch okolo kontinentu.<\/p>\nL\u00ed\u0161ky, \u013ead a \u010drepiny<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Po poslednej colnej kontrole sa v\u0161etci v autobuse uvo\u013e\u0148uj\u00fa. Hotelov\u00e1 mana\u017e\u00e9rka z filmovej fabuly pr\u00e1ve zachr\u00e1nila v\u00fdznamn\u00e9ho hos\u0165a a s pomocou svojho otca premohla atent\u00e1tnikov. Justyna ved\u013ea m\u0148a z\u013eahka drieme, ja pozorujem z\u00e1vere\u010dn\u00e9 titulky filmu a diev\u010da, ktor\u00e9 sed\u00ed dve sedadl\u00e1 predo mnou cez uli\u010dku na \u013eavej strane, sa prudko odvracia od okna. V tom istom momente zaznieva z \u013eavej strany autobusu prudk\u00e1 ohlu\u0161uj\u00faca rana a prv\u00e9 okenn\u00e9 tabule sa impl\u00f3ziou smerom dovn\u00fatra menia na tis\u00edce lietaj\u00facich \u00falomkov. Ostatn\u00ed \u013eudia sa pomaly obracaj\u00fa smerom k \u0161okuj\u00facemu zvuku, diev\u010da za\u010d\u00edna kri\u010da\u0165 a tv\u00e1r a telo m\u00e1 posiate \u010drepinami.<\/p>\n<\/a>V\u0161etci vych\u00e1dzame von. Predn\u00e9 sedadl\u00e1 a podlaha autobusu s\u00fa pokryt\u00e9 \u010drepinami; zvonku vidie\u0165 n\u00e1sledky len na \u013eavej strane. A\u017e teraz sa dozved\u00e1me, \u010do sa vlastne stalo. N\u00e1\u0161 autobus v plnej r\u00fdchlosti “\u0165ukol” predn\u00fdm rohom vodi\u010dovej kab\u00edny do protiid\u00faceho kami\u00f3nu. N\u00e1raz bol i tak nadmieru \u013eahk\u00fd, v porovnan\u00ed s hmotnos\u0165ami vozidiel, ak\u00e9 sa zrazili. Autobus m\u00e1 odp\u00edlen\u00fd predn\u00fd \u013eav\u00fd roh na kapote a v\u0161etky skl\u00e1 v prednej \u013eavej \u010dasti s\u00fa rozbit\u00e9 alebo popraskan\u00e9. N\u00f3rskemu diev\u010da\u0165u sa takmer ni\u010d nestalo, v\u010faka svojmu sebaz\u00e1chovn\u00e9mu in\u0161tinkt\u00edvnemu pohybu moment pred zr\u00e1\u017ekou (pr\u00e1ve vtedy sa n\u00e1hodou pozerala z okna) si zachr\u00e1nila tv\u00e1r a mo\u017eno \u017eivot. Teraz stoj\u00ed v tresk\u00facej zime, v \u0161oku pla\u010de a trasie sa, zatia\u013e \u010do jej priate\u013e nahr\u00e1va video svojho \u017eivota dva metre \u010falej. \u0160of\u00e9r m\u00e1 takisto len nieko\u013eko rezn\u00fdch r\u00e1n na \u013eavej pa\u017ei a na tv\u00e1ri. Zatia\u013e nevidie\u0165 kami\u00f3n. Patag\u00f3nia okolo n\u00e1s je ml\u010danliv\u00e1, mraziv\u00e1 a biela.<\/p>\nArgent\u00edna, \u010cile, Argent\u00edna, \u010cile…<\/h2>\n
<\/a>Autobus stoj\u00ed nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn na oboch hraniciach. Zd\u00e1 sa, \u017ee coln\u00edci nevedia, \u010do si s nami po\u010da\u0165; my sa zatia\u013e pomaly spam\u00e4t\u00e1vame zo \u0161oku. \u010cilania n\u00e1s vyhadzuj\u00fa na argent\u00ednsku stranu, tu vraj nem\u00f4\u017eeme osta\u0165. V\u00edta n\u00e1s op\u00e4\u0165 Argent\u00edna, \u010fal\u0161ie dvojice pe\u010diatok. \u010cak\u00e1me na n\u00e1hradn\u00fd autobus, ktor\u00fd u\u017e poslali z miesta n\u00e1\u0161ho odchodu. Nikto v\u0161ak naisto nevie, \u010di na\u0161e rann\u00e9 cestovanie bude e\u0161te pokra\u010dova\u0165.<\/p>\n<\/a>S\u00fa to istotne m\u00e1rne \u00favahy. Z n\u00e1\u0161ho poh\u013eadu je vlastne jedno i to, kto zr\u00e1\u017eku sp\u00f4sobil, \u010di vodi\u010d kami\u00f3nu, alebo n\u00e1\u0161ho autobusu. N\u00f3rka hovor\u00ed, \u017ee tesne pred zr\u00e1\u017ekou mala pocit, \u017ee autobus pr\u00edli\u0161 prech\u00e1dza za stred vozovky. Takisto fakt, \u017ee kami\u00f3n m\u00e1 zdemolovan\u00fa len zadn\u00fa \u010das\u0165 pr\u00edvesu sved\u010d\u00ed o tom, \u017ee jeho \u0161of\u00e9r sa n\u00e1m aspo\u0148 sna\u017eil vyhn\u00fa\u0165.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"