{"id":117,"date":"2007-04-01T18:58:05","date_gmt":"2007-04-01T16:58:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=117"},"modified":"2019-01-20T15:09:33","modified_gmt":"2019-01-20T13:09:33","slug":"roraima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/roraima","title":{"rendered":"Rora\u00edma, matka v\u0161etk\u00fdch v\u00f4d"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Rora\u00edma,<\/a>\"Justyna<\/a>V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina drah\u0161\u00edch autobusov v Ju\u017enej Amerike od Mexika a\u017e po Argent\u00ednu pon\u00faka v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed luxus, ne\u017e na ak\u00fd sme zvyknut\u00ed doma a naopak, klimatiz\u00e1ciu, v\u010faka ktorej sa teplota vn\u00fatri pohybuje v doln\u00fdch hodnot\u00e1ch n\u00e1\u0161ho mierneho podnebia. Vonku teda m\u00f4\u017ee z\u00fari\u0165 35 \u00b0C, v autobuse zatia\u013e neraz namer\u00e1te menej ako 15 \u00b0C.<\/p>\n

Po pr\u00edchode do pohrani\u010dn\u00e9ho meste\u010dka Santa Elena de Uair\u00e9n si tak v prvom rade lie\u010dime na\u0161e autobusov\u00e9 prechladnutia. Sk\u00famame ter\u00e9n na v\u00fdpravu na stolov\u00fa horu Rora\u00edma, nach\u00e1dzaj\u00facu sa na indi\u00e1nskom \u00fazem\u00ed kme\u0148a Pem\u00f3nov. V\u00fdlety na \u0148u s\u00fa pomerne be\u017en\u00e9 pre zdatnej\u0161\u00edch turistov, my v\u0161ak h\u013ead\u00e1me sprievodcu, ochotn\u00e9ho \u00eds\u0165 s nami dlh\u0161ie a \u010falej, ne\u017e \u010do pon\u00fakaj\u00fa cestovn\u00e9 kancel\u00e1rie v kompletn\u00fdch predplaten\u00fdch bal\u00edkoch.<\/p>\n

\"Pr\u00edpravy<\/a>Na\u0161im sprievodcom bude napokon charizmatick\u00fd Carlos s prez\u00fdvkou Puri-puri, podarilo sa n\u00e1m vybavi\u0165 osemd\u0148ov\u00fa v\u00fdpravu. Puri-puri s\u00fa inak nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9 krviba\u017en\u00e9 mu\u0161ky, na ktor\u00e9 nepom\u00e1ha nijak\u00fd repelent a ktor\u00fdch uhryznutie v\u00e1m na ko\u017ei zanech\u00e1 krv\u00e1caj\u00facu nieko\u013ekod\u0148ov\u00fa ranu. Rovnako ako n\u00e1\u0161 sprievodca, s\u00fa pochybn\u00fdm \u0161pecifikom v\u00fdstupov na Rora\u00edmu. My s Justynou sme si na rozdiel od ostatn\u00fdch \u00fa\u010dastn\u00edkov v\u00fdpravy nevyk\u00fapili agent\u00farny “bal\u00edk” s jedlom a nosi\u010dom a v\u0161etky z\u00e1soby si zh\u00e1\u0148ame sami. M\u00e1me svoje temn\u00e9 pochybnosti o dokonal\u00fdch “all included” v\u00fdletoch a u\u017e onedlho sa o tom presved\u010dia aj ostatn\u00ed \u0161iesti \u00fa\u010dastn\u00edci.<\/p>\n

Zatia\u013e je v\u0161ak len 22. marec 2007: vyr\u00e1\u017eame otl\u010den\u00fdm d\u017e\u00edpom smerom na severov\u00fdchod, k pem\u00f3nskej dedine Paratepu\u00ed. Na\u0161imi spolo\u010dn\u00edkmi s\u00fa Angli\u010dan a Angli\u010danka, jednozub\u00fd Pem\u00f3n Raul a Odbert, Venezuel\u010dan s \u010diapkou, u\u0161trikovanou z pr\u00fatia (posledn\u00fd m\u00f3dny v\u00fdkrik miestnej \u0161amanky). Hne\u010f za nami si to \u0161vih\u00e1 strieborn\u00fd d\u017e\u00edp Chrysler; po na\u0161ich stop\u00e1ch sa dv\u00edha p\u00e1s prachu, vidite\u013en\u00fd na tr\u00e1vnatej stepi nieko\u013eko kilometrov. V druhom d\u017e\u00edpe sed\u00ed na\u0161a venezuelsk\u00e1 spojka, \u0161tyria tridsiatnici z Caracasu, ktor\u00ed uzatv\u00e1raj\u00fa cel\u00fa v\u00fdpravu.
\nZa oknom auta sa kde-tu mihaj\u00fa pem\u00f3nske domy vyroben\u00e9 z blata a pr\u00fatenej kon\u0161trukcie.<\/p>\n

\"Dedinka<\/a>Prich\u00e1dzame do Paratepu\u00ed; tu sa kon\u010d\u00ed na\u0161a cesta autom. Naj\u00edmame si miestneho nosi\u010da, na prv\u00e9 tri dni sa tak zbavujeme \u010dasti n\u00e1\u0161ho n\u00e1kladu (ostatn\u00ed maj\u00fa nosi\u010dov v cene). Vyd\u00e1vame sa na cestu. \u00dap\u00e4tie Rora\u00edmy je vzdialen\u00e9 dva dni pochodu cez savanu: cez de\u0148 jednotv\u00e1rne pahorky, hor\u00face slnko a n\u00e1hle pr\u00edvaly da\u017e\u010fa, ve\u010der a r\u00e1no agres\u00edvne mu\u0161ky Puri-puri, stany, pr\u00edprava jedla.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161a samostatnos\u0165 sa v\u00fdborne osved\u010duje: m\u00e1me vlastn\u00fa, spo\u013eahliv\u00fa v\u00fdstroj a u\u017e v prv\u00fd ve\u010der si m\u00f4\u017eeme s preh\u013eadom uvari\u0165 ve\u010deru v \u010dase, ke\u010f ostatn\u00ed e\u0161te len z\u00farivo zh\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fa sprievodcu. Puri-puri sa napokon objav\u00ed. Tak ako v\u0161etk\u00fdm Indi\u00e1nom, alkohol mu nerob\u00ed dobre. Ve\u010deru dnes musia preto uvari\u0165 chlapci z Caracasu; podar\u00ed sa im to zop\u00e1r min\u00fat pred polnocou. S Justynkou si ticho gratulujeme.<\/p>\n

Na tret\u00ed de\u0148 za\u010d\u00edname samotn\u00fd v\u00fdstup na Rora\u00edmu. Savana ust\u00fapila da\u017e\u010fov\u00e9mu pralesu. Po\u010das celej na\u0161ej cesty sme mali pred sebou dve stolov\u00e9 hory, Rora\u00edmu a Ku ken\u00e1n. Vyrastaj\u00fa z inak holej Ve\u013ekej Savany, akoby boli s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou nejakej hollywoodskej kulisy. Indi\u00e1ni ich naz\u00fdvaj\u00fa tepu\u00eds a tieto skaln\u00e9 \u00fatvary s\u00fa “porozhadzovan\u00e9” po celej oblasti. Na \u010fal\u0161ej z nich sa nach\u00e1dza i najvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vodop\u00e1d na svete Salto \u00c1ngel. Na\u0161a Rora\u00edma je najvy\u0161\u0161\u00edm tepu\u00ed a z\u00e1rove\u0148 predstavuje d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00fa s\u00fa\u010das\u0165 pem\u00f3nskych n\u00e1bo\u017eensk\u00fdch predst\u00e1v, z ktor\u00fdch ist\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 si zachov\u00e1va autenticitu i napriek form\u00e1lnej kristianiz\u00e1cii a mas\u00edvnej “turistiz\u00e1cii”.<\/p>\n

\"Ku<\/a>S Rora\u00edmou sused\u00ed \u010fal\u0161\u00ed tepu\u00ed, Ku ken\u00e1n. Ku ken\u00e1n znamen\u00e1 “ne\u010dist\u00e1 voda” a jeho \u010fal\u0161\u00edm nelichotiv\u00fdm n\u00e1zvom je Mataw\u00ed, \u010do doslova znamen\u00e1 “t\u00fa\u017eim zomrie\u0165”. Pod\u013ea rozpr\u00e1vania Pem\u00f3nov ide vskutku o nepr\u00edjemn\u00e9 miesto. Po\u010das d\u00e1vnych kme\u0148ov\u00fdch vojen bolo plemeno Pem\u00f3nov porazen\u00e9 z\u00e1padn\u00fdm kme\u0148om Enkariko. Pem\u00f3ni, vyhnan\u00ed zo svojho terit\u00f3ria a domovov, sa so stratou cti a majetku nedok\u00e1zali vysporiada\u0165; mnoh\u00ed z nich si zvolili samovra\u017edu skokom z Ku ken\u00e1n, len nieko\u013eko sto metrov vzdialen\u00e9ho od milovanej Rora\u00edmy. Steny oboch tepu\u00ed s\u00fa takmer dokonalo kolm\u00e9 a siahaj\u00fa doslova do oblakov, s prev\u00fd\u0161en\u00edm viac ako kilometer. Indi\u00e1ni pod\u013ea legendy pri p\u00e1de do h\u013abky kri\u010dali pr\u00e1ve “mataw\u00ed”, t\u00fa\u017eim zomrie\u0165.<\/p>\n

Ku ken\u00e1n a Rora\u00edma sa tak pre Pem\u00f3nov stali dvomi m\u00fdtick\u00fdmi protip\u00f3lmi. Roraima, tj. “Smaragdovo modr\u00e1”, resp. “Matka v\u0161etk\u00fdch v\u00f4d”, ako stelesnenie kme\u0148a stromu \u017eivota a po\u010diatok riek, je s\u00eddlom uctievan\u00e9ho Boha Samurruco. Ku ken\u00e1n je opa\u010dn\u00fd p\u00f3l: ob\u00e1van\u00fd, tabuizovan\u00fd zdroj strachu, prekliaty du\u0161ami predkov, m\u00e1rne h\u013eadaj\u00facich pokoj. Dnes je na\u0148ho turistom v\u00fdstup zak\u00e1zan\u00fd. Jeho novodob\u00e1 hist\u00f3ria je toti\u017e pozna\u010den\u00e1 nieko\u013ek\u00fdmi tragick\u00fdmi zmiznutiami cudzincov: \u0161amani a jasnovidci za\u0161eptali temn\u00fa v\u00edziu udalost\u00ed, komunita sa zdesila a n\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk (capitanio) povedal napokon stop.<\/p>\n

\"Ra\u00fal,<\/a>Pem\u00f3ni s\u00fa inak spo\u013eahliv\u00fdmi ochrancami tejto oblasti, ktor\u00e1 je s\u00fa\u010das\u0165ou ve\u013ek\u00e9ho n\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho parku. Vy\u017eaduj\u00fa, aby si n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edci so sebou v\u017edy pri n\u00e1vrate zobrali to, \u010do odniesli. Smeti, exkrementy, v\u0161etko. N\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkov neraz pred odchodom z oblasti kontroluj\u00fa; ak n\u00e1jdu ak\u00e9ko\u013evek predmety, vynesen\u00e9 z posv\u00e4tnej hory, alebo, naopak, nen\u00e1jdu zodpovedaj\u00face mno\u017estvo odpadu, turisti bud\u00fa \u010deli\u0165 \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdm pokut\u00e1m. Nie\u010do podobn\u00e9 by bolo na uv\u00e1\u017eenie i v na\u0161ich hor\u00e1ch, v ktor\u00fdch m\u00f4\u017eete narazi\u0165 na smrad\u013eav\u00e9 “\u010du\u010doriedkov\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de” v ka\u017edom ro\u010dnom obdob\u00ed na v\u0161etk\u00fdch mo\u017en\u00fdch miestach.<\/p>\n

Medzi z\u00e1kladn\u00fdm t\u00e1borom, ktor\u00fd v tret\u00ed de\u0148 r\u00e1no op\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame, a vrcholom, le\u017eia \u0161tyri \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 hodiny prudk\u00e9ho prev\u00fd\u0161enia cez d\u017eung\u013eu a napokon skalnat\u00fd, \u00fazky zr\u00e1z. Miesto je neprestajne bi\u010dovan\u00e9 vodop\u00e1dmi, stekaj\u00facimi z n\u00e1hornej planiny. U\u017e po prv\u00fdch metroch v\u00fdstupu n\u00e1s v\u0161ak zastavia traja mu\u017ei. Patria k skupinke americk\u00fdch \u0161tudentov, ktor\u00e1 vyst\u00fapila na vrchol v predo\u0161l\u00fd de\u0148; po pr\u00edchode hore zistili, \u017ee jeden z nich ch\u00fdba. Zatia\u013e im v\u0161ak v h\u013eadan\u00ed nem\u00f4\u017eeme pom\u00f4c\u0165. Pomaly postupujeme d\u017eung\u013eou, so zvy\u0161uj\u00facou sa nadmorskou v\u00fd\u0161kou je \u010doraz tich\u0161ia a red\u0161ia.<\/p>\n

\"Vyd\u00e1vame<\/a>Napokon sme hore. Vl\u00e1dne tu \u00fapln\u00e9 ticho. Nach\u00e1dzame sa na zvl\u00e1\u0161tnej planine, v\u0161ade okolo n\u00e1s s\u00fa skaly fantastick\u00fdch tvarov. Cel\u00e1 planina je v oblakoch, vidite\u013enos\u0165 sotva nieko\u013eko metrov. V ml\u00e1\u010dke si lenivo loz\u00ed \u010dierna prehistorick\u00e1 \u017eaba. Vrchol rora\u00edmy, to je kamenn\u00e1 plat\u0148a dlh\u00e1 vy\u0161e dvadsa\u0165 kilometrov, ktor\u00e1 z Venezuely prech\u00e1dza \u010faleko na \u00fazemie Braz\u00edlie a Franc\u00fazskej Guayany. Nie je to len tak, \u017ee je s\u00eddlom Boha Samurruco a amazonsk\u00e9ho v\u0161emocn\u00e9ho vl\u00e1dcu Macuna\u00edmy: nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa sa tu druhy rastl\u00edn a \u017eivo\u010d\u00edchov, ktor\u00e9 sa nezmenili u\u017e od praveku a neexistuj\u00fa u\u017e na nijakom inom mieste tejto plan\u00e9ty.<\/p>\n

Rora\u00edma: fascinuj\u00face, neskuto\u010dn\u00e9 miesto n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch kry\u0161t\u00e1lov, drahokamov a neraz i diamantov. Kry\u0161t\u00e1ly rast\u00fa v cel\u00fdch trsoch na kamenn\u00fdch blokoch, alebo len tak, v surrealistickom ru\u017eovom piesku na dne nekone\u010dn\u00e9ho mno\u017estva rie\u010dok a prame\u0148ov, pretk\u00e1vaj\u00facich kamenn\u00fd povrch planiny. Rast\u00fa tu zvl\u00e1\u0161tne kvety, mnoh\u00e9 z nich m\u00e4so\u017erav\u00e9, veget\u00e1cia je \u00fazem\u010dist\u00e1 a jedin\u00fd druh zakrpaten\u00fdch pravek\u00fdch stromov rastie len v istom \u00fadol\u00ed na severnej strane. Ne\u010dudo, \u017ee toto miesto in\u0161pirovalo to\u013eko predst\u00e1v a pr\u00edbehov. Pod jeho vplyvom nap\u00edsal svoj “Straten\u00fd svet” Arthur Conan Doyle a Steven Speilberg sa tu p\u00f4vodne pok\u00fa\u0161al nato\u010di\u0165 “Jursk\u00fd park”. Na\u0161\u0165astie, Pem\u00f3ni vyhodili jeho megalomansk\u00e9 pl\u00e1ny a vrtu\u013en\u00edkov\u00fa flotilu v\u010das na smetisko.<\/p>\n

\"Pravek\u00e9<\/a>Na vrchole sa pres\u00favame do “hotela”, skaln\u00e9ho mas\u00edvu s v\u00fdklenkami, ktor\u00e9 poskytuj\u00fa ak\u00fd-tak\u00fd \u00fakryt pred po\u010das\u00edm. Len tak mimochodom s prekvapen\u00edm zis\u0165ujem, \u017ee m\u00f4j ruksak je \u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00ed, ako ko\u0161e nosi\u010dov a Justyna ma so svojim tesne nasleduje. Raz darmo, na\u0161a nez\u00e1vislos\u0165 m\u00e1 svoju cenu.<\/p>\n

Puri-puriho vysiela\u010dka neust\u00e1le pod\u00e1va spr\u00e1vy o rozbiehaj\u00facej sa z\u00e1chrannej akcii kv\u00f4li zmiznut\u00e9mu Ameri\u010danovi. Horsk\u00ed vodcovia a nosi\u010di sa rozpty\u013euj\u00fa okolo svojich postov, prilieta lietadlo a pre\u010des\u00e1va planinu sotva nieko\u013eko metrov nad povrchom. M\u00e1me zmie\u0161an\u00e9 pocity: nikto nevie, kedy a kde presne Ameri\u010dan zmizol, ka\u017ed\u00fd v\u0161ak d\u00fafa, \u017ee ani najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed tru\u013eo by sa nevydal s\u00e1m pr\u00edli\u0161 \u010faleko do nezn\u00e1mej pustatiny, v permanentnej hmle a v prostred\u00ed, v ktorom sa m\u00f4\u017eete dokonale strati\u0165 behom zop\u00e1r sek\u00fand. Planina je vlastne obrovsk\u00fd labyrint skalnat\u00fdch \u00fatvarov a plo\u0161\u00edn. Nach\u00e1dzaj\u00fa sa tu hlbok\u00e9 tektonick\u00e9 pukliny, do ktor\u00fdch ak spadnete, u\u017e v\u00e1s nen\u00e1jde nikdy nikto, a samozrejme, tis\u00edcmetrov\u00e9 kolm\u00e9 steny, posledn\u00e9 slovo pri najmen\u0161om zav\u00e1han\u00ed \u010di \u0161myknut\u00ed na konci \u00fatesu. Prip\u00e1jame sa ku h\u013eadaniu, pokra\u010dujeme aj po zotmen\u00ed. Jednozub\u00fd Raul, Puriho z\u00e1stupca, napokon cez vysiela\u010dku ozn\u00e1mi: “Na\u0161iel som Gringa!”<\/p>\n

\"Nekone\u010dn\u00e1<\/a>Mu\u017e je o\u010dividne v \u0161oku. Vonku str\u00e1vil dva dni a jednu noc bez jedla. Odmieta komunikova\u0165, Raul vrav\u00ed, \u017ee v prvom momente sa pred n\u00edm dokonca pok\u00fa\u0161al ukry\u0165. Domorodci s n\u00edm sch\u00e1dzaj\u00fa do z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora a my kr\u00e1\u010dame smerom k ve\u010deri. Puri-puri je v euf\u00f3rii; na v\u0161etk\u00fdch pokrikuje svoje typick\u00e9 “`Ermano!” (bratku) a “M\u00e1s nada” (ni\u010d viac!). Najm\u00e4 posledn\u00e1 veta je jeho ob\u013e\u00faben\u00fd pokrik, m\u00e1 svoj p\u00f4vod v masov\u00fdch nepokojoch z n\u00e1mest\u00ed, z venezuelskej kult\u00fary nespo\u010detn\u00fdch politick\u00fdch prevratov. V na\u0161ej situ\u00e1cii neraz naber\u00e1 ve\u013emi svojsk\u00e9 v\u00fdznamy.<\/p>\n

\"Kry\u0161t\u00e1lov\u00e9<\/a>\u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 postupujeme na sever. Neust\u00e1le pr\u0161\u00ed a f\u00faka vietor, prekr\u00e1\u010dame nieko\u013eko rozvodnen\u00fdch riek. Odv\u010dera sme po cel\u00fd \u010das vo vrstve oblakov. Na konci d\u0148a prech\u00e1dzame bodom, kde sa stret\u00e1vaj\u00fa hranice v\u0161etk\u00fdch troch \u0161t\u00e1tov. Niet tu samozrejme nijak\u00fdch coln\u00edkov, jedin\u00e1 cesta dolu pre smrte\u013en\u00edkov vedie i tak cez Venezuelu. Dost\u00e1vame sa do zvl\u00e1\u0161tneho \u00fadolia; zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch str\u00e1n sem padaj\u00fa vodop\u00e1dy. Zem je tu doslova posiata kry\u0161t\u00e1lmi. Miesto vyzer\u00e1 ako v rozpr\u00e1vke. Kry\u0161t\u00e1ly s\u00fa v\u0161ade. V\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou biele, no \u010dasto celkom prieh\u013eadn\u00e9. V\u00e1\u013eaj\u00fa sa na zemi, visia zo sk\u00e1l. Ak chceme prejs\u0165, mus\u00edme po nich \u0161liapa\u0165. Zem je pln\u00e1 bielych, trblietav\u00fdch \u00falomkov.<\/p>\n

S posledn\u00fdmi silami napokon prich\u00e1dzame do \u010fal\u0161ieho “hotela”. Je uzavret\u00fd v skalnom mas\u00edve a sklad\u00e1 sa z nieko\u013ek\u00fdch miniat\u00farnych jaskyniek, ob\u00fdvan\u00fdch len mierumilovn\u00fdmi tarantulami. V jaskynk\u00e1ch si teda rozlo\u017e\u00edme na pies\u010ditej podlahe svoje spac\u00e1ky ako v skuto\u010dn\u00fdch hotelov\u00fdch izb\u00e1ch. Puri-puri si zatia\u013e glgne tro\u0161ku rumu. Zasp\u00ed nad nedokon\u010denou ve\u010derou. “Puri, cestoviny!”, kri\u010d\u00ed Raul. “Ak\u00e9 cestoviny,” nech\u00e1pe Puri. “Varil si cestoviny a v polovici si vypol hor\u00e1k”. “Ak\u00fd hor\u00e1k?” Puri vstane, vykr\u00edkne “m\u00e1s nada” a odtack\u00e1 sa k svojej karimatke. Raul preber\u00e1 velenie; \u013eudia sa napokon svojej ve\u010dere predsa len do\u010dkaj\u00fa.<\/p>\n

\"Jaskynn\u00fd<\/a>V noci n\u00e1m vietor \u00faspe\u0161ne zlikviduje byvak, obal\u00ed n\u00e1s vodou a mokr\u00fdm pieskom. V\u0161etci sme r\u00e1no v pochm\u00farnej n\u00e1lade, na\u010falej husto pr\u0161\u00ed a ochladilo sa. Puriho n\u00e1jdem spa\u0165 na polceste k jeho stanu; znamen\u00e1 to, \u017ee v\u010dera ve\u010der sa pr\u00edli\u0161 \u010faleko nedostal a zaspal na mokrom piesku sp\u00e1nkom spravodliv\u00fdch poloindi\u00e1nov. R\u00e1no v\u0161ak op\u00e4\u0165 vtipkuje; k “m\u00e1s nada” prid\u00e1va “Vamos a la playa!” (Ideme na pl\u00e1\u017e), \u010do je nielen ve\u013emi v\u00fdsti\u017en\u00e9 zhrnutie na\u0161ej teraj\u0161ej situ\u00e1cie, ale na po\u010dudovanie aj \u010fal\u0161\u00ed politick\u00fd pokrik, tentoraz z Bol\u00edvie. Po prehratej vojne s \u010cile stratili Bol\u00edvijci p\u00e1s \u00fazemia, ktor\u00fd ich odrezal od pr\u00edstupu k pobre\u017eiu. V\u017edy, ke\u010f za\u010dn\u00fa Bol\u00edvijci na n\u00e1mestiach vykrikova\u0165 “Vamos a la playa”, \u010ci\u013eania m\u00f4\u017eu rovno vyhl\u00e1si\u0165 bojov\u00fa pohotovos\u0165…<\/p>\n

Cel\u00fd dne\u0161n\u00fd de\u0148 skuto\u010dne bez prestania pr\u0161\u00ed. Som jedin\u00fd \u010dlovek, ktor\u00e9ho top\u00e1nky s\u00fa e\u0161te such\u00e9, a\u017e sa za to hanb\u00edm. S pochm\u00farnymi my\u0161lienkami chod\u00edme po jaskyni, doslova v\u0161etky na\u0161e veci s\u00fa oblepen\u00e9 mokr\u00fdm pieskom. Odbert bez prestania bal\u00ed jointy z kolumbijskej marihuany a n\u00e1sledkom toho so mnou prehr\u00e1va v \u0161achu. Puri drank\u00e1 rum a cigarety, Justyna vy\u0165ahuje po\u013esk\u00e9 karty a zvy\u0161uje \u013eu\u010fom mor\u00e1lku spolo\u010densk\u00fdmi hrami. Vonku sa zatia\u013e zvy\u0161uje hladina riek: cel\u00fd povrch na\u0161ej \u010dasti planiny je pod vodou, niekde s\u00fa to centimetre, inde metre. Hroz\u00ed, \u017ee voda n\u00e1s tu m\u00f4\u017ee uv\u00e4zni\u0165 na nieko\u013eko dn\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"Posledn\u00e9<\/a>Na \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 nad r\u00e1nom sa v\u0161ak na\u0161\u0165astie za\u010dne vy\u010dasova\u0165 a m\u00f4\u017eeme vyrazi\u0165 na spiato\u010dn\u00fa cestu. Puri sa e\u0161te raz obr\u00e1ti k na\u0161ej jaskyni, vykr\u00edkne “m\u00e1s nada” a vedie n\u00e1s pre\u010d. A\u017e teraz vid\u00edme, kam sme sa to vlastne dostali. Nieko\u013eko sto metrov od jaskyne sa nach\u00e1dza koniec planiny, pod nami pl\u00e1va vrstva oblakov a e\u0161te pod nimi – tmavozelen\u00fd koberec amazonsk\u00e9ho pralesa. Veru, je to neuverite\u013en\u00e9, ale voda, padaj\u00faca okolo n\u00e1s v nespo\u010detn\u00fdch vodop\u00e1doch do temnej h\u013abky, prejde z Rora\u00edmy t\u00fdmto pralesom viac ne\u017e tis\u00edc kilometrov a napokon sa vleje do \u0161irok\u00e9ho koryta Amazonky. Stoj\u00edme na hrane \u00fatesu v nemom \u00fa\u017ease. Za chrbtom m\u00e1me svet Boha Samurruco, nadpozemsk\u00fa planinu, ne\u013eudsk\u00fd, kamenn\u00fd pravek\u00fd svet \u010diernych \u017eiab a m\u00e4so\u017erav\u00fdch rastl\u00edn s n\u00e1dhern\u00fdmi \u010derven\u00fdmi kalichmi. Pred sebou – vidite\u013enos\u0165 na desiatky kilometrov d\u017eungle, sk\u00e1l a oblakov, r\u00ed\u0161u amazonsk\u00e9ho Boha Macuna\u00edmy. O chv\u00ed\u013eu v\u0161ak Samurruco prih\u00e1\u0148a \u010fal\u0161iu obla\u010dnos\u0165 a okno do Amaz\u00f3nie sa zatv\u00e1ra.<\/p>\n

\"V\u0161etko<\/a>Vraciame sa na venezuelsk\u00fa stranu.Posledn\u00e1 noc na Rora\u00edme: z dia\u013eky pozorujem prstence po\u017eiarov, ktor\u00e9 neprestajne zachvacuj\u00fa Ve\u013ek\u00fa Savanu. Nad hlavou m\u00e1m jasn\u00e9 nebo a mesiac je takmer v splne: Rora\u00edma, to bolo d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9 miesto na\u0161ej cesty. Mnoho vec\u00ed, ktor\u00e9 som tu za\u017eil a uvidel, bude e\u0161te treba premyslie\u0165: mo\u017eno u\u017e doma alebo len v snoch, bez toho, aby som o tom v\u00f4bec vedel. Nebude sa o tom da\u0165 \u013eahko rozpr\u00e1va\u0165. Zatia\u013e je v\u0161ak d\u00f4le\u017eit\u00e9, \u017ee aj ke\u010f z\u00eddeme dole, ku palmov\u00fdm h\u00e1jikom a v\u0161etk\u00fdm t\u00fdm Stevenom Spielbergom, na n\u00e1hornej planine Boha Samurruco bud\u00fa i na\u010falej, nemo a vytrvalo, r\u00e1s\u0165 v ru\u017eovom piesku prieh\u013eadn\u00e9 kry\u0161t\u00e1ly, a \u017ee povrch Rora\u00edmy bud\u00fa kazi\u0165 len sotva vidite\u013en\u00e9, svetl\u00e9 cesti\u010dky vy\u0161\u013eapan\u00e9 v kameni tis\u00edckami bos\u00edch pem\u00f3nskych n\u00f4h.<\/p>\n \n\t\t

\n\t\t\t \t\n \"Tret\u00ed\n \t<\/a>\n\t\t <\/div>\n \n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/span><\/a> :: Venezuela<\/a> :: Rora\u00edma<\/span><\/a><\/h3>\n

Star\u00e1 fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Rora\u00edma<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

V\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina drah\u0161\u00edch autobusov v Ju\u017enej Amerike od Mexika a\u017e po Argent\u00ednu pon\u00faka v\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00ed luxus, ne\u017e na ak\u00fd sme zvyknut\u00ed doma a naopak, klimatiz\u00e1ciu, v\u010faka ktorej sa teplota vn\u00fatri pohybuje v doln\u00fdch hodnot\u00e1ch n\u00e1\u0161ho mierneho podnebia. Vonku teda m\u00f4\u017ee z\u00fari\u0165 35 \u00b0C, v autobuse zatia\u013e neraz namer\u00e1te menej ako 15 \u00b0C. Po pr\u00edchode do pohrani\u010dn\u00e9ho meste\u010dka…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1506,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[401,301,300,419,339],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/117"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=117"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/117\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8156,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/117\/revisions\/8156"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1506"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=117"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=117"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=117"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}