{"id":104,"date":"2007-03-19T00:57:26","date_gmt":"2007-03-18T22:57:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/?p=104"},"modified":"2013-03-10T14:33:05","modified_gmt":"2013-03-10T12:33:05","slug":"ciudad-bolivar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/ciudad-bolivar","title":{"rendered":"Ciudad Bol\u00edvar"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Ciudad\"Ciudad<\/a>Vo Venezuele je kr\u00e1\u013eom ropa; liter benz\u00ednu je lacnej\u0161\u00ed ako liter pitnej vody a n\u00e1\u0161 autobus do ju\u017enej\u0161ieho mesta Ciudad Bol\u00edvar je nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t lacnej\u0161\u00ed, ako podobn\u00e9 vzdialenosti na Kube. Bol\u00edvar je slovo, ktor\u00e9 vo Venezuele po\u010dujete neraz. Simon Bol\u00edvar bol venezuelsk\u00fd revolucion\u00e1r, ktor\u00fd v 19. storo\u010d\u00ed porazil \u0161panielske koloni\u00e1lne vojsko a n\u00e1sledne, na kr\u00e1tky \u010das, zjednotil cel\u00fa severn\u00fa \u010das\u0165 ju\u017enej ameriky. Dal t\u00fdm prv\u00fd impulz na ukon\u010denie koloni\u00e1lnej \u00e9ry v tejto \u010dasti sveta a z\u00e1rove\u0148 na po\u010diatok dlh\u00e9ho obdobia mocensk\u00fdch bojov a nestability, trvaj\u00facich dodnes.<\/p>\n

Samozrejme, \u00faboh\u00fd Bol\u00edvar to tak istotne nemyslel; dnes sa v\u0161ak za trest jeho menom naz\u00fdva koncepcia latinskoamerickej sf\u00e9ry vplyvu populistu Huga Ch\u00e1veza a okrem toho i ka\u017ed\u00e9 centr\u00e1lne n\u00e1mestie, hlavn\u00e1 ulica \u010di z\u00e1kutie venezuelsk\u00fdch miest. Cho\u010fte, kam chcete, i tak napokon skon\u010d\u00edte na Plaza Bol\u00edvar.<\/p>\n

\"Cestou<\/a>A veru\u017ee tak aj bolo. 15. marca ideme v Ciudad Bol\u00edvar rovno do centra a ubytujeme sa v jednoduchom penzi\u00f3niku (tzv. posada) priamo na plaza Bol\u00edvar. Plat\u00edme, ako inak, menou bol\u00edvares. Ciudad Bol\u00edvar je nepekn\u00e9 meste\u010dko na peknej a obrovskej rieke Orinoco. Tr\u00e1vime tu len dva dni pred \u010fal\u0161ou cestou do ju\u017enej Venezuely. Stret\u00e1vame \u010fal\u0161\u00edch cestovate\u013eov, dozved\u00e1me sa o nieko\u013ek\u00fdch prepadnutiach turistick\u00fdch z\u00e1jazdov na severe krajiny. Na ve\u010dernej z\u00e1bave s vynikaj\u00facou hudbou a tancom n\u00e1s e\u0161te schlad\u00ed p\u00e1rik \u010cechov, ktor\u00fdch pr\u00e1ve ol\u00fapili za rohom, rovno pod nosom hliadkuj\u00facich policajtov. Policajti prijali ich ozn\u00e1menie nanajv\u00fd\u0161 stoicky a o p\u00e1r hod\u00edn im priniesli ukradnut\u00fd fotoapar\u00e1t. Odmietaj\u00fa diskutova\u0165 o tom, ako chytili p\u00e1chate\u013eov a kde je finan\u010dn\u00e1 hotovos\u0165, ukradnut\u00e1 spolu s ta\u0161kou a fotoapar\u00e1tom.<\/p>\n

Samotn\u00e9 mesto nevzbudzuje na\u0161u pr\u00edli\u0161n\u00fa d\u00f4v\"Rieka<\/a>eru. Za\u010d\u00edna sa na pravom brehu Orinoco, v smrte\u013enej p\u00e1\u013eave a vlhkosti, a jeho ulice n\u00e1hle strmo vystupuj\u00fa do strm\u00e9ho ter\u00e9nu, v poobed\u0148aj\u0161\u00edch hodin\u00e1ch hrozivo opusten\u00e9, so zavret\u00fdmi obchodmi a spusten\u00fdmi \u017eelezn\u00fdmi vr\u00e1tami. V centre niet takmer nijak\u00fdch re\u0161taur\u00e1ci\u00ed ani supermarketov, nach\u00e1dzame len obchody s tre\u0165otriednou m\u00f3dou a drog\u00e9rie. Ke\u010f v nede\u013eu poobede prech\u00e1dzam po uliciach, niet tu ani \u017eivej du\u0161e, okrem obrovsk\u00e9ho, tu\u010dn\u00e9ho pova\u013ea\u010da, ktor\u00fd sp\u00ed v strede cesty v uf\u00fa\u013ean\u00fdch \u0161at\u00e1ch a hu\u0148at\u00e1 ku\u010derav\u00e1 hriva sa mu mie\u0161a s olejovou ml\u00e1kou, plnou prachu a odpadkov. Ve\u010der odch\u00e1dzame, \u00fazke ulice sa op\u00e4\u0165 za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa zap\u013a\u0148a\u0165 \u013eu\u010fmi. Mesto zapad\u00e1 do pokojn\u00e9ho \u0161era, len v dia\u013eke sa \u010drt\u00e1 smrte\u013ene romantick\u00e1 silueta jedin\u00e9ho mosta rieky Orinoco, za ktor\u00fdm dohas\u00edna oran\u017eov\u00fd, tropick\u00fd z\u00e1pad slnka.<\/p>\n

Cesta na ju\u017en\u00fa hranicu Venezuely trv\u00e1 12\"Ulice<\/a> hod\u00edn, prech\u00e1dzame ju v noci. Z nevinn\u00fdch driemot n\u00e1s vytrhne a\u017e r\u00e1no vojensk\u00e1 hliadka, ktor\u00e1 zastavuje autobus a v\u0161etk\u00fdm k\u00e1\u017ee vyst\u00fapi\u0165. Arm\u00e1da m\u00e1 po celej krajine tak\u00e9to taktick\u00e9 cestn\u00e9 stanovisk\u00e1, na ktor\u00fdch rob\u00ed n\u00e1matkov\u00e9 kontroly \u00e1ut a pasa\u017eierov. Vojaci n\u00e1s prin\u00fatia vynies\u0165 cel\u00fa bato\u017einu a za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00fa preh\u013ead\u00e1va\u0165 ka\u017ed\u00fd kus s d\u00f4kladnos\u0165ou arm\u00e1de vlastnou. Mo\u017eno sa mi to len zd\u00e1, ale vojaci v tejto \u010dasti sveta (rovnako na Kube) vyzeraj\u00fa by\u0165 neuverite\u013ene mlad\u00ed; jeden z nich kontroluje Justynu. Je tak\u00fd \u00fatly, \u017ee samopal na jeho pleci vyzer\u00e1 a\u017e neprirodzene. Spr\u00e1va sa, akoby po prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t v \u017eivote dr\u017eal v ruke d\u00e1msku spodn\u00fa bielize\u0148 (asi nie som \u010faleko od pravdy). Justyna mu napokon n\u00e1sil\u00edm vytrhne ga\u0165ky z detsk\u00fdch dlan\u00ed a doraz\u00ed ho \u0161tipkou \u0161\u0165avnat\u00fdch slov v jeho rodnom jazyku.<\/p>\n

M\u00f4jho vojaka zase zauj\u00edma \u010desk\u00fd \u00fato\u010dn\u00fd n\u00f4\u017e, ktor\u00fd \"Vojensk\u00e1<\/a>mi n\u00e1jde v ruksaku. Vid\u00edm mu na o\u010diach, ako ve\u013emi po \u0148om t\u00fa\u017ei. \u0160tuduje obojstrann\u00e9 ostrie, dokonca si p\u00fazdro prirovn\u00e1va ku gatiam a celkom zab\u00fada, \u017ee sa m\u00e1 tv\u00e1ri\u0165 ako podozrievav\u00e1 autorita.Napokon otcovsky pokr\u00fatim hlavou a mu\u017e mi ho s povzdychom vracia. Autobus sa op\u00e4\u0165 poh\u00fdna, a\u017e teraz si v\u0161\u00edmame, \u017ee okolo n\u00e1s sa strieda d\u017eung\u013ea a obrovsk\u00e1 tr\u00e1vnat\u00e1 pahorkatina s palmov\u00fdmi h\u00e1jikmi: sme v La Gran Sabana, vo Ve\u013ekej Savane, na\u0161ej \u010fal\u0161ej dlh\u0161ej zast\u00e1vke.<\/p>\n

Kontextov\u00e9 odkazy:<\/p>\n

Fotogal\u00e9ria<\/a> \u00bb Ciudad Bol\u00edvar<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vo Venezuele je kr\u00e1\u013eom ropa; liter benz\u00ednu je lacnej\u0161\u00ed ako liter pitnej vody a n\u00e1\u0161 autobus do ju\u017enej\u0161ieho mesta Ciudad Bol\u00edvar je nieko\u013ekokr\u00e1t lacnej\u0161\u00ed, ako podobn\u00e9 vzdialenosti na Kube. Bol\u00edvar je slovo, ktor\u00e9 vo Venezuele po\u010dujete neraz. Simon Bol\u00edvar bol venezuelsk\u00fd revolucion\u00e1r, ktor\u00fd v 19. storo\u010d\u00ed porazil \u0161panielske koloni\u00e1lne vojsko a n\u00e1sledne, na kr\u00e1tky \u010das,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1488,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0},"categories":[354],"tags":[401,419],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=104"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2395,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104\/revisions\/2395"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1488"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=104"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=104"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/happy2travel.eu\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=104"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}